Omega watch out because there’s a new 300m diver on the scene. I’m talking about the brand new Prospex 300m Automatic Polygonal Divers watch from Seiko. Which feels like the first genuinely new, not-a-heritage-tribute watch in the Prospex collection that Seiko has produced in about three years – outside of crazy novelties like the 1/100th Second Solar Chronograph. We got hands-on with the collection to learn all about it.
I called out Omega in the introduction because to my mind, this is the closest to Omega’s Seamaster Diver 300m that Seiko have ever been in terms of overall aesthetic. It measures 41.25mm in diameter in steel with mirror-polished surfaces, on top of which sits a distinctive polygonal bezel. The shape is technically an octagon but the edges are rounded, which makes it a touch more ambiguous. From a distance you’d be forgiven for think the bezel is completely round.
I will say it’s a slightly odd shape, like someone left out a circle and it melted a little in the sun. However, there is an ergonomic purpose to it. But having angled sides instead of a smooth arc, it makes it much easier to rotate. I can’t think of many facetted rotating bezels as the majority of polygonal bezels, such as those found on integrated sports watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, are fixed. And twisting the bezel here is very satisfying.
There are three versions of the watch available. First is the Coastline Cobalt edition with a blue bezel and matching blue coastline-pattern dial. Second is Pearl White, which unsurprisingly has a white dial paired with a black bezel. Lastly there’s the Ocean Grey and Bronze edition with a dark, almost anthracite tone dial and a bronze coloured bezel giving it a strong nautical equipment vibe. The coastline dial is interesting, like a hybrid between the horizontal lines of the Patek Nautilus and the waves of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m.
To keep it nice and legible, the dial is completed with pencil hour markers coated with lume. That shape is mirrored by that of the central hour, minute and seconds hands. Completing the display is the date window nestled between 4 and 5 o’clock. The date disc is black on the grey and blue editions and white on the white one, which is appropriate.
On the wrist, all three models have an impressive amount of presence. They’re big to be sure but it’s not overwhelming and the weight of them is reassuring rather than cumbersome. They’re also presented on steel bracelets which always adds an extra layer of visual impact. Although I personally think you could slap this onto a rubber strap to increase the comfort and double-down on the dive watch vibe, it would look great.
Turning any of them over reveals a solid caseback with a wave motif in the centre. Solid casebacks are very common on dive watches because it can help to improve the water resistance rating. Generally, solid casebacks are made from a single piece of material, require less components than an exhibition back, so there are less failure points for water to enter the watch through.
Although I would also like to be able to see the Seiko Calibre 6R55 that’s housed inside the Prospex 300m Automatic Polygonal Divers as it’s one of the Japanese brand’s higher spec movements. It has a 72-hour power reserve with an accuracy of -15/+25 seconds per day. Recently Seiko’s higher end watches with movements like the 6R55 and 300m water resistance ratings have been on the pricier side of the scale, but the Polygonal is actually priced very reasonably.
Specifically, it costs £1,000. For a practical tool watch with good specs, that seems appropriate. After spending time with the watches I’m still not completely sold on the new design, but perhaps that’s simply because it’s new and I haven’t become accustomed to it yet. Arguably the same could be said for the Patek Philippe Cubitus which also drew clashing opinions recently. Who knows, perhaps in 20-years’ time we will be talking about them as the revolutionary iconoclasts of their time.
Price and Specs:
More details at Seiko.
