The rumours are true: Patek Philippe’s first new collection since 1999 is here and, unless you’ve had your ear to the ground for the last couple of weeks, it’s probably not what you’re expecting. This is, of course, the new Patek Philippe Cubitus – and it’s certainly something. It’s also, very firmly (according to Patek themselves) square.
The Cubitus is, first and foremost, Patek Philippe’s first square watch. They’ve dabbled in ellipses aplenty, circles of all sizes and whatever you want to call the Gondola, but this is their first square, and was apparently somewhat of a passion project for Patek’s Thierry Stern: “since I was quite young, I always challenged myself to say, ‘I need to have also a beautiful square watch in the collection.’ So that’s how we started, actually.”
And yet, it’s not entirely square, either. With it’s octagonal bezel, with four shorter and four longer sides, it aesthetically feels like they’ve simply squared the circle of the Nautilus. The similarities to Patek’s genuinely iconic sports watch don’t stop there either. The new Cubitus has similar bold shoulders either side and even the same grooved dial and integrated bracelet as the Nautilus. So while it may be a first for the Swiss watchmaker and might feel pretty left-field, it’s not exactly a huge departure from their usual sports style. If you’ve ever seen the old ‘Nautellipse’, the Cubitus fits in rather well.
As you’d expect with this calibre of watchmaking, the case surfaces are alternately brushed and polished, emphasising that striking shape across the many edges. I don’t really need to go into the finishing too much; it’s a Patek, you know it’s going to be phenomenal.
There are currently three models in the collection. The first is in steel with a green dial, marking an entrypoint into the Cubitus collection. The second is my favourite of the three, a rose gold and steel bi-colour number with a classic blue dial. The last is the complicated version, a platinum case with a blue dial and grand date, day subdial and moonphase.
The green will set you back £35,330, the bi-colour £52,480 and the platinum £75,690. The time-only models are equipped with the calibre 26-330 C with a 35–45-hour power reserve. The day-date watch uses the 240 PS with a 38–48-hour power reserve. All the movements are, of course, visible through the exhibition case back and are, equally obviously, stunning.
Now, there’s been some divisiveness around the Cubitus. Square watches aren’t for everyone and a square version of the Nautilus isn’t something anyone was particularly clamouring for – except perhaps Stern himself. But all the furore is around the shape. The watch itself is well-made, has all those Patek hallmarks and scratches that well-heeled steel sports watch itch. I imagine it will go the way of the Code 11:59, divisive now but something we’ll all soon calm down over and accept. At the very least, it’s nice to have something even harder to get hold of than a Nautilus.
It might not be the 5711 replacement we were all hoping for, but maybe it’s the one we deserve?
Price and Specs:
Patek Philippe calibre 240 PS CI J LU, automatic, 52 jewels (Grand Date)
21,600 vph (3 Hz) (Grand Date)
48h (Grand Date)
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, day, moonphase (Grand Date)
More details at Patek Philippe.