Studio Underd0g has, in a relatively short time, come to be a definitive force in the British watch industry. Their fun concepts and extravagant use of colour has catapulted them right to the pinnacle of watch design, all the while championing this sceptred isle. If that sounds like hyperbole, it isn’t. How many other young British watch brands (Studio Underd0g was founded in 2020) have collaborated with Swiss titans like H. Moser & Cie.? For the tail end of 2024, Studio Underd0g is revisiting the watch that started it all with a new generation, the 01Series Gen 3.
01Series is comprised of the original 4 designs with which Studio Underd0g made their name. Most celebrated of the four is Watermel0n but it’s also joined by Mint Ch0c Chip, Desert Sky and Go0fy Panda. Each is named after the food stuff or concept that inspires the colourway and details. So Watermel0n has a green tachymeter, pink dial and seed shaped hour markers. Mint Ch0c Chip is then green with creamy, chocolaty accents and choc chip hour markers. Incredibly striking and playful designs.
Considering that the designs of 01Series have been kept the same for Gen 3, what has changed? Well, the watch case is now slightly slimmer with a thickness of 12.9mm down from 13.6mm. However, more significant than that is the movement. Back in April Seagull, the manufacturer of the ST-1901 used in the 01Series, changed their sales model for the movement. Importantly, the minimum order quantity for ST-19 movements became 10,000 pieces – which for a brand that produces watches in relatively low quantities is quite the predicament.
Fortunately, Studio Underd0g have announced that they are now working directly with Seagull on a partnership movement called the ST-1901B. It features a black main plate that offers a fresh aesthetic that frames the bridges and gears of the calibre. Additionally, it features a new swan neck regulator allowing it to be regulated with more precision to a rate of -10/+15 seconds per day, an improvement over the -15/+35 seconds per day of the previous model. It has a power reserve of 50-hours standard or 45-hours with the chronograph engaged.
It’s a solid upgrade to the watch’s quality of life, especially as the movement was often the area most criticised previously. Upgrading it shows that Studio Underd0g are genuinely paying attention to the feedback of their customers and are willing to iterate on their designs to improve them – even if in this case, they were forced into it. Another quality of life update for customers is that, to avoid excessive scalping, Studio Underd0g have changed their sales method.
Instead of a strict limited edition of say 500 pieces, the watch will be available for a pre-order period of 9 hours from 3pm-12am on 19th November and everyone who orders a watch during that period will be guaranteed a watch. The first 600 orders are due to be delivered before Christmas with the rest due in early 2025. Orders will be treated on a first come, first served basis.
All four variants of the Studio Underd0g 01Series Gen 3 are priced at £550, which is £50 up on the previous generation. Given the improvements however, that’s a small price to pay.
Price and Specs:
More details at Studio Underd0g.
