H. Moser & Cie. x Studio Underd0g Unveil Project Passion (Fruit) Limited Edition Collaboration

As divisive as it is, the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch was genuinely revolutionary when it released back in 2022. It proved that when it comes to collaborations, brands don’t have to stay in their lanes and there is a genuine interest from collectors when high end brands work alongside accessible ones. However, in the years since no other brands (outside Swatch doing it again with Blancpain) have taken that risk. Until now, with the launch of the H. Moser & Cie. x Studio Underd0g Project Passion limited edition collaboration.

A major difference between this collaboration and the Swatch ones is that rather than fuse the two styles of the brands into a single watch, Moser and Studio Underd0g have created a watch each based on the same theme, influenced but not built by one another. Plus, both brands involved are known for their quirky senses of humour. The two watches are exclusively available in a two-piece set, limited to 100 pieces. Individually the watches are the H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit and the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit.

Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit

While the H. Moser is the higher end of the two watches, I want to start by talking about the Studio Underd0g 03SERIES Passi0n Fruit. That’s because the passion fruit concept behind the Project Passion is a natural follow up to Studio Underd0g’s most famous watch, the Watermel0n. According to the press conference where the brand’s founder Richard Benc talks about the launch, the specific idea stemmed from the fact that while in talks with Eduard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser, he was struck by their shared passion for the industry. As a fellow Brit, I understand why he couldn’t help but fall in love with the related pun.

Focussing in on the watch, it’s inspired by the original 01SERIES chronographs with a few notable updates, hence it being known as the 03SERIES. The overall layout of the watch is the same with a central, coloured disk with fumé gradient and brushed peripheral tachymeter – presented in passion fruit yellow and purple – along with the big eye style chronograph display. However, it’s cleaner and more streamlined. All of the text has been stripped from the dial as have the seed shaped hour markers, similar to Moser’s Pioneer Concept series.

Structurally, the steel case measures 38.5mm and is now a monopusher chronograph, as opposed to the 01SERIES, which had two pushers. That change leans it even further into the retro direction that the big eye display already gave that piece. Obviously, with that mechanical change, the movement has to change too and for the first time ever, Studio Underd0g have used a Swiss chronograph movement. Specifically, it’s the Sellita SW510 M with manual winding (like all of their watches) and a 63-hour power reserve.

It was inevitable that Studio Underd0g would eventually explore Swiss movements as they grew, but this is an upgrade of significant proportions. I imagine the size of this leap in quality comes courtesy of the fact that as it’s being sold alongside an H. Moser Perpetual Calendar, meaning consumer value is a little less of a front facing issue. It remains to be seen what the individual price will be once the 03SERIES has a solo launch – or when some daring flipper puts just this out to the open market.

H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit

When Project Passion was being initially pitched, it was the Minute Repeater, not the Perpetual Calendar that was suggested as the H. Moser subject watch. However, Meylan felt that the Perpetual Calendar was a better fit because it has been a staple model in the Moser stable since way back in 2006. He felt that being able to compare the relatively traditional watch from 2006 with this riot of colour would be a fun way to mark how far the company has come in the last 18 years. It also shows how much changing a few details and colours here or there totally changes the character of a watch.

The dial consists of two parts, a purple brushed lower portion and an enamel fumé raised section in golden yellow. Adding a spark of visual interest to the piece is the fact that certain sections have been left exposed: the date window, small seconds subdial and power reserve indicator. Together these are a square, circle and triangle, an extra bit of play with the shape language of the piece.

Another aesthetic detail is the fact that the months indicator is green, like the stem of new growth in a passion fruit. This is mirrored on the Studio Underd0g via the green tipped chronograph subdial hand. Turning the Moser over to reveal the exhibition caseback reveals one last dash of colour via the yellow and purple leap year indicator along with the HMC 800 calibre, the same movement as used in the original 2006 model. It continues to impress with its 7-day power reserve courtesy of a double barrel system. Plus, it has all the usual Moser hand finishing.

Together, the Project Passion watches cost CHF 59,000 (approx. £52,900) and as mentioned they are only available in 100 limited edition sets. As I’ve been writing this article, I’ve been monitoring your live reactions to our post regarding the launch on Instagram and I can already see that it’s proving a little divisive – though nowhere near as much as the MoonSwatch. In general terms it seems that people like the concept of the collaboration in principle but that the colours are a bit too garish and not to everyone’s tastes. Let us know your thoughts in the comments below or join the conversation on Instagram.

More details at H. Moser & Cie.