Earlier in 2024 Oris released a comprehensive update to their Oris Aquis Date collection, including special editions like the Aquis Date Upcycle. However, over the years the Aquis has played host to more than just humble time and date complications. There have been GMT editions and chronographs and it doesn’t seem fair that these styles have been left behind by the updates. Well, now Oris have rectified one of those issues by releasing the new Aquis Chronograph 43.5mm, which I have here for review.
Let’s be clear, Oris’ 2024 updates to the Aquis are not a huge stylistic overhaul or anything so dramatic as that. They’re a series of small tweaks and quality of life improvements that are barely noticeable unless you look for them – although when you do see them you will welcome them. All of those same updated features are found on the Aquis Chronograph 43.5mm.
Starting with the case, it’s definitely a chunky beast, but it’s technically more refined than previous iterations of the Aquis Chrono which were true behemoths at 45.5mm while this edition is 43.5mm in diameter. This reduced size leans into the modern Aquis’ focus on feeling more compact (even at larger sizes) and cleaner in its lines. The unidirectional bezel with ceramic insert dive timer sits tight to the case, indicating more precise and reliable build quality. It’s also easy to manipulate thanks the chunky grip.
On the wrist, I have to say I’m surprised by how well it suits me. I tend to shy away from watches larger than 40mm but I don’t feel overwhelmed by the Chrono. I think that’s due to the sharply angled lugs that mean the bracelet (which has a thinner taper than previous versions) drops away down the sides of the wrist comfortably. Plus, the built up crown guard between the chronograph pushers isn’t as huge as pictures make it seem. It’s really only the thickness of – whipping out a ruler – approximately 15mm that means I ultimately can’t pull it off.
Moving from the case to the dial, I really like it. It’s the perfect blend of Aquis dive watch and sporty chronograph design. It’s blue with a smoky fumé gradient around the periphery which looks fantastic. It has a tricompax chronograph layout with the running seconds at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute timer mirrored across at 3 and a 12-hour timer with date window at 6. It also has the moderns set of hands and hour markers, which are slimmer and more tapered.
Powering the Oris Aquis Chronograph 43.5mm and visible through the exhibition caseback is the Oris Calibre 771. It’s an automatic chronograph movement with a 62-hour power reserve. I like the amount of resistance it has on the chronograph pushers, which are firm but not stiff. Which is what you want from a chrono dive watch so that you can’t press them by accident if you’re making use of the 300m water resistance rating.
In terms of price, it’s £3,990. That places it as third most expensive Aquis in the current range behind only the AquisPro 4000m and the artisanal Sun Wukong edition – which you can read about at the bottom of this article, here. I think that price is justified by the great specs of the watch and the really nice dial. If it was a touch thinner, I would have zero reservations about it. At the same time I’m also happy to see an unapologetically large tool watch in 2024, a year that has so far been dominated by slim, vintage proportions.
Price and Specs:
More details at Oris.
