I remember the launch of the Oris Aquis Date Upcycle in 2021 very well because I had only recently joined Oracle Time and it was the one of the first watches I got hands-on with after the winter lockdown ended. Fast forward, and the watch is back on my desk (the same model, at least, not the same watch) and this time it’s accompanied by its successor, the Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 2024. So, what has changed?
In short, it’s a story of small but impactful changes. If you’re not aware, the entire Aquis range has been revamped for 2024 and this version of the Upcycle has been included in that. I’m glad that it wasn’t left behind because it really consolidates its position as Oris’s poster watch for their Change for the Better initiative, a programme that champions environmental sustainability.
In a game of side-by-side spot the difference, the most obvious difference between the two watches is the dial. But that’s because every Upcycle has a unique dial made from recycled plastic recovered from the world’s oceans, so really that doesn’t count as a difference. I still love the chaotic combinations of colours and patterns that can be created and it’s cool knowing that no other version of the watch is identical to yours.
When it comes to the actual changes Oris have consciously made to its design, everything on the recycled dial has been tweaked. The date window has had its colours inverted to white on black to better match the more dominant dark colours in the dial. The central hour and minute hands are noticeably slimmer. The hour markers have a slightly larger taper at their inner tip. And lastly, the typography of the ‘AQUIS’ inscription and water resistance rating at six o’clock is completely new, looking crisper and more legible.
Zooming out to look at the case and once again, there are lots of small but meaningful updates. While the diameter remains 41.5mm, the new edition just feels slimmer. It’s almost imperceptible, but it feels like the caseback sits flatter on the wrist, meaning the thickness feels reduced by 0.5mm or so. The bezel also plays a big factor in that because there’s less of a gap between its edge and the case below, making it feel more compact. It still has a big, knurled grip making it easy and satisfying to rotate and the grey ceramic insert still has a dive timer scale.
The lugs have also been redesigned as has the bracelet. They retain the overall shape but again they’re just that much slimmer. The extra slimness of the bracelet is particularly noticeable – each link on the new bracelet has a thickness of 3.5mm, while on the old one it’s much closer to 4mm. At the same time the centre link has been widened and the edge links are thinner, which gives an overall impression that the whole thing is thinner as well. It’s very comfortable, although does risk straying into territory where it lacks the chunk and heft that a steel tool watch wants.
Flipping the two watches over, the movement housed inside is exactly the same. It’s the Oris calibre 733, which is based on the Sellita SW 200-1 with 38-hour power reserve. I still have the same complaint from 2021 that it should have the Calibre 400. But to give Oris credit, alongside the new 41.5mm edition I have here, there is a new 43.5mm model that does house the 400. There’s also an updated 36.5mm model, but that has the 733 again.
It’s also worth noting that this is a change to the entire Aquis collection as a whole, not just the Upcycle. It’s a shift that will be making its way into the ever standard 2024 model, with earlier references being discontinued and phased out in short order. If for some reason, you preferred the original, you might want to get in there soon; otherwise, expect a tastier Aquis to get to your local Oris retailer soon.
Priced at £2,250, the Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 2024 offers punchy value and only a slight increase on the £2,000 of the 2021 model. It’s not a drastic change of course. On the whole, I think it’s a case of if you didn’t like the 2021 version of the watch then this new edition won’t suddenly change your mind. However, if you were on the fence or planning to buy an Aquis anyway, this suite of changes does genuinely improve the quality of life of the watch.
Price and Specs:
More details at Oris.