Guilloche is often shorthand for a certain breed of Swiss classical watchmaking, the kind of finishing that sets an entry level timepiece from a masterpiece. The thing is, these days a good enough machine can do most guilloche and it’s getting more common than ever before, especially at the accessible end of the market. Not so enamel, which is why we should pay attention to brands like Ématelier who excel at enamel.
Grand Feu enamel doesn’t just sound extraordinary in a grandiose way, it’s one of the most laborious processes in watchmaking. It starts with a wafer-thin metal disc that’s then painted with impossibly thin layers of enamel powder. It’s only when that powder is fused together when fired at 800 degrees Celsius that it becomes the perfectly smooth, beautifully deep enamel that represents a certain echelon of watchmaking.
Even that however makes it seem a simpler process than it is. Enamelling is a science rather than an art, and even the finest artists might mis-paint a brush stroke. You can’t cover up issues in enamel as easily as canvas though and any imperfection, an almost invisible hairline fracture for example, means tossing a dial out and starting from scratch. That gets incredibly hairy when, every time you want to add a new element or colour to the dial, it needs to be re-fired. You can funnel days of work into a single dial only to have it fall at the final hurdle.
Needless to say, that all means that good grand feu enamel has a bit of a premium. It’s why it’s normally reserved for prestige pieces a la Breguet, Jacquet Droz and Vacheron Constantin. I say normally, because Ématelier’s watches start from only $1,900.
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Ematelier Sprezzatura Cloisonné Atlas Corona
That might sound too good to be true, but this is what happens when someone specialises this hard into something like enamelling. The Canadian company’s expertise in the field is second-to-none and indeed, their gloriously artistic bespoke dials – which includes gold wire-framed cloisonne enamel. Fancy a preproduced Louvre-worthy masterpiece to crown your aging Cartier? This is the way to go.
Ématelier Sprezzatura Collection
There is a premium of course and it’s a very involved process, in need of a base watch for Ématelier to work with. If what you’re looking for is simpler than that – an accessible timepiece with its own grand feu enamel dials – look no further than the new Sprezzatura collection, featuring the Grand Feu Enamel edition, Two Component Sunken Handmade Grand Feu Enamel Dial, Three Component Double Sunken Handmade Grand Feu Enamel Dial and Cloisonne Handmade Grand Feu Enamel Dial.
Referring to a kind of effortless grace, there’s a sly dichotomy in using the word here. On the one hand, the amount of effort that’s gone into the enamel dial is anything but effortless; on the other, the resulting watch has the kind of casual elegance that epitomises the word. Case in point, this gorgeous red and white number.
Ematelier Sprezzatura Three Component White Red
The Sprezzatura Three Component model has a double sunken dial. As if grand feu enamelling wasn’t hard enough on its pristine surface, this adds a whole new layer of complexity and even more possibility of the dial cracking, due to the combination of components and delicate construction. The central dial is pure, clean white; then there’s the red ring with painstakingly painted numerals before the outer white ring with black minute track. It’s an absolute stunner and the depth of colour is magnificent. Sure, there’s something to be said for applied numerals instead of painted, but when you’re showcasing enamelling there’s only one way to go, and the fired gold enamel mixes well with the bright pop of red.
As we’ve established, Ématelier are an enamel specialist, not necessarily a watchmaker in the truest sense. So, it’s no surprise that the rest of the watch is relatively pared back. The 38.8mm stainless steel case is pebble-smooth and tactile thanks to the gently curving bezel, akin to the kind of immensely wearable numbers from Nomos Glashutte. It more than does the job – something that can also be said of the movement, a customised Soprod number with a 42-hour power reserve. That movement also has an Incabloc shock absorbing system, but honestly, given the dial shocks are one thing you’ll really want to keep this watch away from.
The bottom line is that the rest of the watch has been kept relatively accessible – high quality of course, but not opting for some pricey ETA number or extravagant case finishing – so that Ématelier can offer enamel dials for a downright extraordinary price. There are only one or two other companies offering watches like the Sprezzatura at anywhere near these prices, and none of them do so with as many enamelled elements as this.
It helps matters that the Ématelier Sprezzatura Three Component in red and white is also just a great looking watch. Even without diving deep into the difficulties of enamel, that means a lot.
Price and Specs:
More details at Ématelier.
