Every year it feels like there’s a prevailing trend that takes over the watch industry. And if you believe the narrative (which are just as guilty of spreading) then 2024 is a year that has been dominated by vintage proportions and the return of classy dress watch design. However, there is one truth in the watch industry that must never be overlooked: trends are temporary, the popularity of dive watches is forever. It’s true, while the spotlight is on vintage inspired watches, this year’s fleet of dive watch releases has been spectacular. Here’s a look at the best dive watches of 2024 (one per brand) for every budget.
Hoffman Diver 40
The Hoffman Diver 40 is a very new dive watch on the scene, so now that at time of writing it doesn’t go on pre-order until September 26th. It’s a 40mm diameter watch in steel with broad, brushed steel diving bezel and a classic circular design. The dial is lovely with a gentle fumé gradient that leads from light blue to dark blue to black in the aqua variant. It’s also available with a full black sunray brushed edition. The calibre inside is the Seiko NH35, a widely used and reliable workhorse movement. It’s also a limited edition of 200 pieces.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 13.5mm thickness, stainless steel, blue fumé gradient dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre NH35, automatic, 24 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: FKM rubber
Price: £306.19, limited to 200 pieces
Oceaneva Deep Marine Explorer II Pro Diver Damascus Steel
For Oceaneva, value is everything to a degree that makes the mind boggle and wallet very, very happy. Sure, there’s often a strong Rolex flavour in their collection, but their latest stands on its own. With a distinctive Damascus steel pattern across its case and dial, the appearance of this Deep Marine Explorer II Pro Diver Damascus Steel edition is a world apart from your standard homage watch. It’s not just the looks either; this bad boy is water resistant to 1,250m, all for the presale price (until late October) of £315. No, I didn’t miss a zero.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 14.8mm thickness, layered forge welded damascus steel case and dial
Water resistance: 1,250m (125 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW200-1, automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Black FKM rubber
Price: £310
Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms
Dropping in right at the start of the year was a new edition of the Swatch x Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms in a full black colorway called the Ocean of Storms, hoping to make lightning strike twice. You know the deal, an iconic watch as seen through the lens of Swatch accessibility. While it wasn’t as successful as the almighty Moonswatch – which somehow keeps getting cooler – it’s still a cool idea. It’s just less cool by association. Don’t expect modern Fifty Fathoms performance here – although the 91m water resistance matches the original vintage model – but it’s still a fun watch that’s doubly so if you already have the Blancpain version.
Case/dial: 42.3mm diameter x 14.4mm thickness, Bioceramic case, black dial
Water resistance: 91m (9 bar)
Movement: Swatch calibre SISTEM51, automatic, 51 parts, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 90h power reserve
Strap: NATO made from recycled fishing nets with black Bioceramic pin buckle
Price: £350
Seiko Prospex 4R ‘Shog-urai’
After a lot of higher-end offerings, Seiko have returned to their uber-accessible home turf in cool fashion by combining two of their fan-named models into one. A constriction of Shogun and Samurai, it’s big, sharp, and faceted with some cool indexes and hands to round it off. I’m sure die-hard Seiko fans could easily go into essay-length depth about the various model crossovers here, but for me, a looker of a diving watch with respectable specs and an impulse buy price tag are more than enough to make this an incredibly appealing bit of Japanese watchmaking – especially in the full black.
Case/dial: 41.7mm diameter x 12.3mm thickness, stainless steel case, red dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre 4R35, automatic, 23 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £560
ProTek Model PT1015 USMC
ProTek are a brand defined by their name, offering professional technology to climbers, divers and adventurers of all types. The USMC dive watch was produced as part of an official partnership with the United States Marine Corps. It features a robust 42mm diameter case made from light weight and high tech carbon composite material. It has a 300m water resistance rating which is tested in both air and water for an extra level of security. As this is a precision tool, it’s equipped with the Miyota 2S60 quartz calibre for a high level of accuracy and reliability.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 13.95mm thickness, carbon composite, blue dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 2S60, quartz
Strap: Rubber with stainless steel signature buckle
Price: $495 (approx. £374)
Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80
Repping a 300m water resistance rating and rugged case, the Tissot Seastar 1000 is a fantastic value proposition. The 1000 in the name is actually the water resistance in feet (give or take 16 feet), in case you were wondering. Outside of the raw performance, the Seastar 1000 is also a looker, with a vertically grained dial that’s particularly noticeable on the gorgeous dark turquoise model. I’m a sucker for jewel tones in a tool watch, especially when it doesn’t impact the low-light legibility necessary for a dive watch. Plus, the whole thing is powered by the Powermatic 80, one of the best in Swatch Group’s superb stable of third-party movements. Hell, it’s arguably the best movement in its price bracket, which is saying something these days.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter, stainless steel, turquoise dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Tissot calibre Powermatic 80, automatic, 23 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £685
Ubiq Dual Series 1
Ubiq are a quintessential microbrand, founded and designed by an individual who brought their dream to life through a successful crowdfunding campaign at the start of the year. Now the Ubiq Dual Series 1 is available to purchase in a handful of bright and colourful variants including the Seaset, Bumble, Navysilver, Beetred and Applesour. The name Dual comes from the dual bezel that features both a 12-hour scale and a 60-minute scale, allowing it to serve as both a dual time indicator and a dive timer. Beneath the colourful exterior is the Miyota 9015 with 42-hour power reserve.
Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 11.5mm thickness, stainless steel, grey dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Miyota calibre 9015, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £501
Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba
The Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba brings a dash of colour to play with its brightly coloured minute scale and matching strap. The use of red, orange and yellow is common in equipment designed for use in and around water because it contrasts to the blue waves, making it easy to see – vital in safety equipment. That’s paired here with a 40mm case and the Hamilton H-10 movement.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 12.95mm thickness, stainless steel case, black with orange dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Hamilton calibre H-10, automatic, 25 jewels, 21,600 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Rubber with pin buckle
Price: £790
Citizen Promaster Diver
There are plenty of Citizen watches with dials packed full of unending information, which makes the clean, highly legible design of the Promaster Diver quite refreshing. It has large lumed indices that make it easy to read underwater and the (super) titanium case is nice and robust. As is the case with the popular watchmaking metal, it also makes the chunky, 41mm watch much, much lighter and more comfortable on the wrist than you might expect. Backed by 200m water resistance – which is respectable, even if there are better water resistances in the accessible field – it’s a watch that demands attention.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter, titanium case, blue dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Citizen automatic movement, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £795
Certina DS Super PH1000M STC
Not only does the Certina DS Super PH1000M STC have a cool retro case inspired by a heritage model from the 1970s, but it also supports the conservation of turtles. It’s a win-win! Specifically, the STC in the name stands for Sea Turtle Conservancy, one of the leading conservation groups looking after one of the ocean’s most iconic animals. The watch is almost as big as a turtle too with a diameter of 43.5mm and equipped with a water resistance rating of 1,000m. In a world of black and dark blue divers, its combination of light teal with flashes of orange are more refreshing than a post-dive beer.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 43.5mm width x 14.15mm thickness, stainless steel case, blue dial
Water resistance: 1000m (100 bar)
Movement: Certina Powermatic 80, automatic, 25 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Black rubber with orange stitching
Price: £885
Mido Ocean Star 39mm
Mido are low-key one of the most fun dive watch specialists in the industry. Just look at their super colourful decompression timer if you need proof. This is slightly more reserved, but with a funky wave pattern dial like ocean floor sand, it’s a unique twist on what would otherwise be a by-the-numbers diving watch. Oh, and in case you didn’t know from our debut collaborative watch (the Dune Shoreline, now sold out, sorry) we like waves. The movement inside is the Mido Calibre 72, based on the ETA A31.111 with 72-hour power reserve, which is solid at this price point. Of course, the watch is also dressed with the obligatory unidirectional rotating dive timer bezel in the same sexy mix of blue and black as the dial.
Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 10.5mm thickness, stainless steel case, blue gradient dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Mido calibre 72 (based on ETA A31.111), automatic, 21 jewels, 25,500 vph (3.5 Hz) frequency, 72h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £990
Nostas Audace 500
There’s often a perception that a microbrand watch must be lower quality than a big name brand but that simply isn’t the case in many scenarios. The Nostas Audace 500 has a great 500m water resistance rating, beating out many watches by larger brands. It achieves this through a screw down crown, screw down caseback and thick 3mm sapphire crystal, as well as a helium escape valve for the return journey. The case itself measures 41mm in diameter with a thickness of 13.3mm including the crystal, which are great proportions for a diver. It’s powered by the Sellita SW200.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 13.3mm thickness, stainless steel, sky blue dial
Water resistance: 500m (50 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW200, automatic, 36 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £1,011
Farer Aquacompressor Hecla Red Titanium Series II
You know your dive watch game needs a bit more colour. Don’t worry, it’s not just you – dive watches in general could use the occasional flash of brightness. And colour is what Farer do best. Compressor case in point, the British brand’s Aqua Compressor Hecla Red Titanium Series II. The mix of red, white and dark grey titanium makes for one of the most individual dive watches, even in the somewhat rarefied field of dual-crown, internal rotating bezel compressors. Sure, it might not have the professional notes of boring black, but it still has solid specs: 300m water resistance, plenty of lume and a 41-hour power reserve add up to a watch that hits well above its price tag in looks and specs.
Case/dial: 41mm width x 45mm height x 12.5mm thickness, grade 2 titanium case, red dial
Water resistance: 30m (30 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW200-1 Elaboré, automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Red natural rubber
Price: £1,075
Herbelin Cap Camarat Diver
When we got hands-on with this a couple of issues back, it quickly became my favourite Herbelin timepiece. It’s big, bold, and in its eye-catching combination of black and orange, downright cool. It’s a compressor style case, but without the retro 1950s vibes that normally entails. Instead, it’s distinctly modern, combining the ‘70s influences of its bold bezel with its visible screws, a horizontally striped dial and a chunky crown guard. It has all the same ingredients as other Cap Camarat watches, but here it all works better than ever. It’s also typically accessible.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter, stainless steel case, black dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW220-1, automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Orange FKM rubber
Price: €1,200 (approx. £1,010)
Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor Elite
Compressor dive watches are designed in such a way that as the pressure on the watch increases as you descend into the depths, the case becomes tighter and tighter, keeping the case nice and water resistance. The Elite edition of the Christopher Ward C65 Super Compressor also features a decompression timer on its dial, which informs you how long your decompression stops should be as you resurface.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 13.75mm thickness, stainless steel, deep blue with orange and light blue dive timer scale dial
Water resistance: 150m (15 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW300-1, COSC-certified, automatic, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 56h power reserve
Strap: Light blue Aquaflex, bi-colour Tropic or stainless steel Bader bracelet
Price: £1,395 (bi colour Tropic) £1,405 (Aquaflex), £1,560 (stainless steel Bader bracelet)
ELKA Arinis
While its 200m water resistance is enough to reach the bottom and then some, everything Elka does centres on their home of Lake Neuchatel and the classic bent of watchmaking in the region. Their shiny new diver, the Arinis, is a stunner. The dial is restrained nearly to the point of sparsity, with small yet readable indexes, a svelte brand logo at 12 o’clock and the water resistance in tiny lettering at six. The rest of the dial is a gorgeous deep blue, with a small interruption for the date. The bezel has a bit more flair with a line denoting the 15-minute counter, but in a way that’s cool and subtle in equal measure. The overall impression is refinement above and beyond what many dive watches achieve. The backing of a movement from the superb La Joux-Perret helps things along, too.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 11.85mm thickness, stainless steel case, gradient blue dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: La Joux Perret calibre G100, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 68h power reserve
Strap: Blue Tropic Rubber FKM
Price: CHF 1,810 (approx. £1,630)
Ollech & Wajs C-1000 A
Ollech & Wajs were once one of the most prolific watch brands in the world, but these days they’re best known for a series of incredibly cool heritage inspired watches. Take the C-1000 A, a modern re-interpretation of the ground-breaking Caribbean 1000 from 1964. It was the first watch with a water resistance rating of 1,000m, and at the time absolutely destroyed the nearest competition. Sorry, Rolex stans. The modern version matches that performance and overall, retro look, but with a few modern twists, like a new crown and movement. At least, past the first 56 numbered pieces, which actually house new old stock movements. They’re also probably gone now but keep your eyes open for those collectors’ pieces.
Case/dial: 39.5mm diameter x 15.8mm thickness, stainless steel case, black dial
Water resistance: 1000m (100 bar)
Movement: ETA calibre 2824-2 OW3P, fully overhauled NOS, automatic, 25 jewels (numbered edition), Bespoke Soprod calibre Newton Precision P092, automatic, 23 jewels (non-numbered edition), 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h (numbered edition), 44h (non-numbered edition)
Strap: Yellow Nylon ‘Cadmium’ RAF with optional additional stainless steel bracelet
Price: CHF 1,856 (approx. £1,635), additional CHF 126 (approx. £110) for stainless steel bracelet, limited to 56 pieces (numbered edition)
Yema Skin Diver Slim CMM.20
French brand Yema have released a handful of stellar dive watches in 2024, including the award winning Navygraf Mariner Nationale. However, we’re highlighting the equally cool Skin Diver Slim CMM.20, which has awesome retro numerals in the cardinal points. It also lives up to the slim name with its 39mm diameter and 10mm thickness housing the CMM.20 micro-rotor movement. Compare that to your standard, ostentatiously chunky performance diver and it’s a different beast entirely. It’s one of the few serious dive watches that can subtly fit under a shirtsleeve and while those indexes aren’t exactly restrained, the sizing makes it work as a versatile, everyday wearer.
Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 10mm thickness, stainless steel, lacquered dark grey dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Yema calibre Morteau 20, automatic, Micro-Rotor, 33 jewels, 190 parts, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 70h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel Scales Slim bracelet
Price: £1,699, limited to 500 pieces
Alpina Seastrong Diver Extreme
Alpina watches tend to lean in one of two directions – cool and retro or big, bold and hyper modern. With both ‘Strong’ and ‘Extreme’ in the name, no prizes for guessing which category this falls into. With its broad bezel and intricate dial with tessellating pattern, it’s very much a ‘more is more’ kind of watch, hammered home with the eye-catching combination of black and orange. Even the crown with its black rubber grip and sharp, faceted lugs are almost yelling at you to test its mettle and metal. A boat to boardroom watch this is not – and to its benefit at that.
Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 12mm thickness, stainless steel case, black triangle pattern dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Alpina calibre AL-525 (based on Sellita SW200), automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Rubber with folding buckle and push buttons or stainless steel bracelet
Price: £1,895
BALL Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster II
The deep sea has a worrying amount in common with deep space and a watch designed for the former can do very well in the latter – hence the late Commander Brian Binnie of SpaceShipOne being a fan of Ball’s epic dive watch. After a lifetime of service, he passed away in 2022 and this gloriously over-engineered slice of practicality is Ball’s tribute to the legend. Built like a safe with a crown protector to put most vault doors to shame, this is no wallflower of a watch. While chunky, the 42mm case is actually super wearable thanks to the titanium construction and, whether you take it to space or the deeps, the self-illuminating gas tubes will ensure readability in all conditions.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter stainless steel case, black dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Ball calibre 1102-C, automatic, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with folding buckle
Price: £2,670, limited to 1,000 pieces
Rado Captain Cook Blue Gradient
We’ve spoken about the Captain Cook enough that it’s likely old ground by now. Hell, we’ve had it as our cover star more than once and, aside from new materials and colourways, it’s largely the same as it’s always been – so you probably know what to expect here. A retro, versatile sports watch that can withstand virtually anything you throw at it, the watch is hyper legible, more-so in this gorgeously pared-back version than some of the skeletonised editions. In fact, while it’s not in Rado’s high-tech ceramic (or perhaps because it’s not) this is my favourite recent Captain Cook model, with its sleek blue-grey gradient dial and cool yellow highlights. There’s a reason we keep covering the collection and this is it.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 12.3mm thickness, stainless steel, blue high-tech ceramic bezel, blue and white gradient dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Rado calibre R763, automatic, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with titanium 3 fold clasp, additional blue leather strap with stainless steel extendable folding clasp and blue & white textile NATO strap with stainless steel pin buckle
Price: £2,500
Van Brauge Port Diver MK II
They may be better known for their cool, architecturally focused designs, but British brand Van Brauge have also tried their hand at dive watches and the result made us glad that they have. The black and burgundy look of the Port Mk II is a handsome twist on a standard dive watch layout, with the classic oversized 12, three and nine. The six has been replaced with a date window – in a porthole, of course – and with 200m of water resistance, it does the job and does it well. As is the case with the rest of Van Brauge’s stable, the caseback is a highlight, with a design like an underwater airlock and a diver’s helmet rotor.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 15.7mm thickness, stainless steel case, black dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Van Brague calibre VB-24A, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Metallocene Butadiene rubber with red stitching
Price: £2,795
Doxa SUB 300T Sharkhunter Clive Cussler
Doxa’s Clive Cussler series is a fun take on dive watches that present them as lost relics rediscovered after years of corrosion and damage, in keeping with the author’s famously pulpy adventure books. Worn, weathered cases and a dial depicting the compass rose motif make them feel like props from an Indiana Jones film, which just means someone other than Matthew McConaughey needs a crack at the Cussler’s hero, Dirk Pitt. I love this, and I don’t normally like pre-weathered watches. It might have something to do with Doxa’s heritage in the early days of dive watches, but it’s probably more basic than that. This is a cool watch, and I wish I was Dirk Pitt. Simple.
Case/dial: 42.5mm width x 44.50mm height, stainless steel, black dial with handmade decorative grinding
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Swiss automatic movement, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Aged stainless steel beads of rice bracelet with additional black FKM rubber strap, both with folding clasps and wetsuit extensions
Price: £3,050, limited to 93 pieces
Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date
One of the coolest dive watch dials of the year comes on the Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date with its three-dimensional wave motif. We already went over the convoluted history of the collection and what’s new about the modern update in the last issue, but we couldn’t let a list of the best divers go by without rehashing a few of those elements. A modern diving watch from the ground up, the latest incarnation of the Aquaracer is the most refined yet and with one of the nicest dials in its price segment, makes for an appealing alternative to the nearest competition, the Omega Seamaster 300. It also has the solid dive watch specs to match, with 300m water resistance and a superb chronometer-certified, 80-hour power reserve movement. The Aquaracer was overdue an update and TAG Heuer nailed it.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 12mm thickness, stainless steel case, blue dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Tag Heuer calibre TH31-00 COSC, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 80h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £3,300
Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV
As you might expect from the name, the Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV is part of Oris’s ongoing efforts to preserve a vital ocean habitat through their Change for the Better initiative. Structurally it’s based on the updated 2024 edition of the Aquis, with 300m of water resistance and a 43.5mm diameter case. It’s all par for the Oris course, but the distinction here is the dial, which is meant to be the view of the surface of tropical water from underneath, light filtering down. It’s one of the most beautiful dials that Oris have ever produced, raising the bar for this mini collection of charity pieces to the point where I wonder where they’ll take it next.
Case/dial: 43.5mm diameter, stainless steel case, blue gradient dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Oris calibre 400, automatic, 21 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 120h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £3,550, limited to 2,000 pieces
Bell & Ross BR 03 Diver
Bell & Ross bring their own distinctive style to the realm of dive watches by presenting the BR 03 Diver with a square case. It measures 42mm in diameter and has a water resistance rating of 300m, it also has a hyper legible display and unidirectional rotating bezel. Importantly, when the collection was updated in 2024, the movement was improved to have a 54-hour power reserve, a notable improvement in quality of life.
Case/dial: 42mm width, stainless steel case, white dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Bell & Ross calibre BR-CAL.302-1, automatic, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 54h power reserve
Strap: Woven rubber and additional synthetic fabric strap
Price: £3,800
Tudor Black Bay METAS
Tudor released several new Black Bays in 2024 but perhaps the most important for the collection is the Tudor Black Bay METAS. It introduces their master chronometer movement MT5602-U to the standard steel BB for the first time and makes them one of the few mainstream watchmakers (Omega aside) to really give the demanding METAS certification a go. It’s like COSC on steroids, as inconvenient to the watchmaker as it is demanding. But it does ensure that the movement is hyper accurate and reliable alongside a power reserve of 70-hours. That’s good to see in what is one of the most broadly appealing Black Bays in its classic steel and black combination.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 13.6mm thicknessm stainless steel case, black dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Tudor calibre MT5602-U, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 70h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £3,910
Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 Rainbow
Adding a colourful splash to what is otherwise a serious dive watch, the Rainbow edition of the Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 has brightly coloured lume hour markers. It has all the core specifications of a professional dive watch with 300m water resistance and a 42mm diameter steel case. Powering it is the calibre Breitling 17.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 12.56mm thickness, stainless steel case, white dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Breitling calibre 17, in-house, automatic, COSC-certified, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Turquoise rubber with stainless steel folding clasp
Price: £4,250
Zenith Defy Revival A3648
One of the coolest watches of 2024 in any category or archetype of design is the Zenith Defy Revival A3648. Zenith’s revival sideline has always been one of the most eye-catching collections – which given the dimensions of the Defy Extreme is no small accomplishment – and the re-created Plongeur, Zenith’s lesserknown vintage diver, is perfect. Its diminutive 37mm diameter is bolstered by its intensely faceted case and the concentric circles of orange, black and steel make for a watch that feels less of a revival, more a genuine vintage piece fished out of nostalgia. Not that it’s all vintage; the A3648 has a substantial 600m water resistance, making it one of the more serious divers out there. Looks and specs, it has it all. And a price tag to match.
Case/dial: 37mm diameter, stainless steel, matte black dial
Water resistance:100m (10 bar)
Movement: Zenith calibre Elite 670, automatic, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 50h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet with folding clasp
Price: £6,900
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m
The bigger, badder, bolder sibling of Omega’s James Bond famous diving watch, the Planet Ocean is uncompromisingly a tool watch, which normally presents itself with intimidatingly dark blues, blacks and hints of orange. It’s all very performance oriented. This version however takes a different approach, with a stone-coloured dial, textile strap and brown bezel with white lettering. It’s seriously appealing, unusual but incredibly cool and proof positive that beige isn’t boring. It helps that it has all the practical backing of the Planet Ocean collection, including an impressive 600m water resistance and one of the best in-house movements at this price point.
Case/dial: 43.5mm diameter x 16.2mm thickness, stainless steel case, linen colour dial
Water resistance: 600m (60 bar)
Movement: Omega calibre 8900, automatic, 39 jewels, 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz) frequency, 60h power reserve
Strap: Brown rubber with foldover clasp
Price: £7,100
Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810
4,810m is a seriously impressive water resistance rating, it’s also not an arbitrary number for the Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810. It’s equal in depth to the height of Mont Blanc, the famous mountain from which the brand derives its name. On top of that it has the signature Iced Sea dial with its glacier inspired cracked motif. Beneath the surface is the Chronometer movement MB 29.29 with 120-hour power reserve.
Case/dial: 43mm diameter x 194.mm thickness, titanium case, Sfumato iced blue glacier pattern dial
Water resistance: 4,810m (481 bar)
Movement: Montblanc calibre MB 29.29, automatic, COSC-certified, 21 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 120h power reserve
Strap: Black rubber
Price: £7,900
Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa
Long since graduated from their militaristic Italian roots, Panerai’s range is broader than ever – within the cushion cased confines of its three collections. The Submersible is their most practical and this version ties into their ongoing collaboration with Sailing Boat racing team Luna Rossa. That means it incorporates the team’s red and white colourway with a crisp white dial and red highlights across the small seconds hand and the cool, hybrid textile strap. It’s an impeccable looking watch and wearable at 42mm across – though by nature the cushion case wears slightly bigger – and offers a lovely movement and 300m water resistance. Specs-wise it feels a little pricey but looks this good are worth paying for.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter stainless steel case, white matte dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Panerai calibre P.900, automatic, 23 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 3 days power reserve
Strap: Bi-material grey with stainless steel buckle
Price: £9,500
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm Titanium
The Fifty Fathoms is one of the most influential dive watches in history that was at the forefront of design in the 1960s. Its name is a reference to its original depth rating, which is equivalent to approximately 90m; an impressive depth at the time, hence its use by the legendary Jacques Cousteau. Today it has a much more modern and practical 300m rating and is powered by calibre 1315 with a 120-hour power reserve, but that original look with its sapphire covered bezel is much the same. Here the material has changed – now in super lightweight titanium, something I’ve been wanting to see the 42mm Fifty Fathoms draped in for years. In fact, this might be one of the best versions of the ultimate prestige diver to surface in recent memory. And with a price like this, prestige it most definitely is.
Case/dial: 42.3mm diameter x 14.3mm thickness, titanium case, black dial
Water resistance: 300m (30 bar)
Movement: Blancpain calibre 1315, automatic, 35 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 120h power reserve
Strap: Titanium bracelet with folding clasp
Price: £18,000
Rolex Deepsea Ref. 136668LB
You can’t discuss dive watches without Rolex popping up from the depths, so we thought we’d save the Crown until last, which is relatively straightforward given the ultra-luxe twist on the legendary Deepsea that is the Ref 136668LB. The massive, full-gold beast is an astonishing watch that manages to maintain a 3,900m water resistance rating despite being made from a usually soft precious metal. How well it stands up to knocks and bumps I’m not brave enough to find out – and indeed, you’d have to be bullish to the point of borderline insanity to take a £45,700 watch anywhere near the water. This is a serious, professional watch that’ll live out its days as a desk diver. Housed inside is the 3235 manufacture Rolex movement with superlative chronometer certification and 70-hour power reserve.
Case/dial: 44mm diameter x 17.7mm thickness, 18k yellow gold, blue lacquer dial
Water resistance: 3,900m (390 bar)
Movement: Rolex calibre 3235, automatic, 31 jewels, COSC-certified, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 70h power reserve
Strap: 18k yellow gold bracelet
Price: £45,700
I find Vostock, various models, sufficient and reliable at acceptable cost.
Vostok are Russian. Please don’t put money into the Russian economy.