Patek Philippe Unveil Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 Watches for Grand Exhibition

This month marks the return of the Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition after a substantial hiatus following the global pandemic. This is the sixth edition of Patek’s premier solo exhibition and for the occasion they’ve descended on Tokyo to reveal a suite of new releases and celebrate everything Patek. The new watches are the Grand Exhibition Limited Edition Tokyo 2023s and they include a Quadruple Complication, World Time Minute Repeater, World Time, a pair of Calatravas and a moonphase.

Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023

The Quadruple Complication has its origins in the Triple Complication 5208 from 2011, equipped with the same set of complications +1. Specifically, the new watch introduces a second chronograph hand to become a rattrapante chronograph, building on the original chronograph, perpetual calendar and minute repeater complications.

Naturally, the updated set of complications means there’s a new movement powering the piece. It’s the rather complicatedly named Calibre R CHR 27 PS Q. What makes the movement special is the fact that there are two new patented systems designed to lower the energy consumption of the split-seconds chronograph and the clutch, giving the piece a power reserve of 48 hours standard or 38-hour with the chrono engaged. That’s seriously impressive considering the number of energy intensive complications present.

In terms of structure and style, the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 has a 42mm case in platinum and a salmon dial. The day, date and month apertures are arrayed across the top of the dial while the 60-minute counter sits at 3 o’clock, the small seconds and moonphase at 6 and lastly the 12-hour counter at 9. In the centre of the face are the hour and minute hands as well as the twin chronograph hands. The hands, hour markers and decorations are all brown to compliment the shiny alligator strap.

This watch is limited to just 15 pieces, making it one of the most exclusive launched at the Grand Exhibition. As with every launch here, it has a Patek Philippe Tokyo inscription on its caseback.

Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023

Next up is the second limited edition of 15 pieces, the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014. It’s a beautiful piece with a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel dial depicting the historical Chou district of central Tokyo. Cloisonné is a technique that involves using thin gold wire to separate individual coloured areas of the enamel and this dial is one of the most precise and intricate examples I’ve seen in a while. The individual streets, city blocks, woods and river all picked out with exacting finesse and detail.

Beyond the enamel dial, this is a watch we’ve seen before as the 5531 World Time Minute Repeater debuted in 2017 and this is just a Tokyo edition. But that does nothing to detract from the elegance of the 40.2mm rose gold case with its hobnail guilloché minute repeaters slide. Nor the impressive Calibre R 27 HU.

In fact, the Calibre R 27 HU is one of Patek’s seminal movements because it was the first minute repeater to be capable of always chiming the local time. In order to set local time, you adjust the 24-hour cities scale so that your local time zone is positioned at 12 o’clock – since it’s the Tokyo edition that city is highlighted in red. The movement, which has a 48-hour power reserve, is visible beneath a sapphire crystal caseback with the limited edition Tokyo inscription.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023

There’s a second World Time model being released but this one is sans minute repeater. It’s the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 of which there are 300 pieces available. It features a lovely, rich plum dial with a hand-guilloché centre in the shape of wavy ripples. Although perhaps more interesting is the fact it houses a new movement with yet another new patent for Patek.

Specifically, it’s the Calibre 240 HU C, an automatic movement with world time and date functions. The patented feature is the differential system that allows the date to update in conjunction with local time. Useful if you find yourself traveling across the date line often. It’s one of those quality of life improvements that most people won’t notice on the day to day and that’s exactly the point – it makes the watch easier to use and you don’t have to worry about operating it.

Like the World Time Minute Repeater, Tokyo has been highlighted in on the world time scale to emphasise its relevance to Japan. But that’s not the only Japanese reference on the dial as the sun on the day/night 24-hour scale has been depicted in the form of the red imperial sun of Japan as seen on their flag.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6127G-010 and 7127G-010

The Calatrava Ref. 6127G-010 and 7127G-010 were first seen in the Japanese market at the end of 2022 but the Grand Exhibition marks them taking to the main stage. They’re a his & hers pair with the 6127G-010 as the men’s 36mm model and the other as the 31mm women’s piece. The concept of his & hers watches has generally fallen out of favour with the majority of brands so it’s always interesting to see it rear its head.

I think the main attraction of these watches are the colourful lacquer dials. The men’s piece is a blue while the women’s is purple, they’re not quite pastel but they’re on the paler side. Compared with the typically classical displays of Calatravas, they feel bold and modern. Which is appropriate for Japan where tradition and modernity rub shoulders on a daily basis.

Powering the pair is the Calibre 215 PS, a manual movement with a 44-hour power reserve. Compared to the other watches in this article, the 215 PS is relatively simple, touting hour, minute and small seconds functions. Once again, the exhibition caseback features the Patek Philippe Tokyo inscription that marks it as a special edition. Speaking of, there are 400 pieces of each colourway available – 300 in paired sets and 100 individually.

Patek Philippe Ladies’ Moon-Phase

Lastly we have the Moon Phase Ref. 7121/200G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023, which is part of the women’s collection. It’s the kind of watch that if it were a bit larger and had a plain bezel option, it would be perfectly unisex. As is, it has a 33mm diameter and the bezel is set with 132 brilliant cut diamonds in a double row.

The dial is sunray brushed with a pearl grey colouration. Compared with the bezel it’s relatively understated, as is the titular moonphase indicator and small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Aesthetically there isn’t much that ties it to Japan and it just appears to be a fresh colourway for the 2022 edition.

There are 200 pieces of this limited edition available. Of the six watches being launched, I think my favourite is the Quadruple Complication, although it’s the World Time models that really capitalise on being launched in Japan by emphasising elements of Japanese culture. Ultimately, Grand Exhibition is a good name for the event considering the launches showcase aspects of most of their collections. The only major model we’re missing is the Nautilus or Aquanaut.