While GMTs are the de facto travellers’ watch, for my money nothing quite beats a worldtimer. The first watch I ever bought myself was a handsome Longines worldtimer number from their Master Collection and I still wear it regularly. It’s clean, sleek and has a less-is-more, blue-and-silver look I love. So where does the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Worldtimer stack up?

The problem is, more watchmakers than not take a maximalist approach to worldtimers. Atlas dials rendered in exquisite detail, globe motifs everywhere, they really take the ‘world’ in worldtime and run with it – to exhaustion. There’s heritage there (Patek Philippe jumps to mind) but for me, simplicity is key to rendering 24 timezones in a coherent way.

The Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Worldtimer is about as clean and legible as they come. No detailed map, no details that look like they’re stripped from airline branding, just a stunning, pure silver dial.

I’m a huge fan of monochrome anyway, it oozes 1950s chic like nothing else and on a travellers’ complication has that ‘golden age of air travel’ glamour to it. It makes me feel like the jetsetter I always know I’ve been. That’s doubly the case here, with a mix of a matte rhodium city ring, a matt silver 24-hour ring and sunray brushed inner dial. Each has a very subtle distinction, but it’s there if you look. I don’t want to say it’s a watch for connoisseurs… but it kind of is.

The city ring itself takes up quite a large portion of the dial, perhaps a touch too much. It makes sense, with a solid double layer of cities to make sure they’re still readably large. There would be no point having a worldtimer with lettering too small to pick out, and the all-silver look gets away with it more than other watches. But a slimmer city ring would make the entire thing feel a bit more elegant.

There are multiple versions of the Heritage Worldtimer, of course. There’s a black dialled version that, honestly, just doesn’t have the cache of the silver. The silver though is available in a steel or rose gold (and limited edition) case, the former of which we have here. I can’t say for sure which I prefer. The gold is certainly more glamorous, and pairs with those lovely rose gold indexes, but the steel amps up the monochrome. If I had to come down on one side, it would likely be the steel – if only because that’s more in my price range.

Speaking of the cases, they measure in at 39mm, with a height of 10.25. For me, that’s goldilocks territory, although on the wrist it feels a touch larger if only because of the amount of stuff on the dial. It feels nice, the lugs are slightly curved, and it is indeed nicely readable without having to crane your neck over your wrist to peer closely at the time in Tokyo.

It’s not just easy to read, but easy to operate too. In case you’ve been wondering this whole time what that funky nine o’clock crown was all about, that’s to quick-change the city disc. It’s ripped straight from the 1950s heritage number this is based on and is something I’d like to see in more worldtimers. With my Longines, for example, you need to change the minute hand until the 24-hour ring syncs up, then jump the hour to the correct local time. Not so here. It also makes for a supremely cool rotating dial.

Inside is the CFB A2020 automatic movement. It’s a solid COSC-certified number with a 55-hour power reserve that looks like a manual-wind movement at first glance. That’s because the rotor is peripheral, giving an unobstructed view of the mainplates with plenty of cotes de Geneve, snailing and the balance spring. It’s also part of the reason the watch can maintain that 10.5mm thinness. I’ve been told that peripheral winding can be more efficient than your standard rotors, but I really didn’t have this for long enough to dive that deep. The bottom line is that it makes for a stunning caseback.

For me, Carl F. Bucherer’s is a phenomenal template for a worldtimer. Is there more they could do with it? Absolutely. After all, this is a more streamlined take on their previous Heritage Worldtimer, so there’s always room for improvement. I’d love to see it with a bit of guilloche on that central dial, or a slimmer city ring, a few things like that. On its own merits however – the all-silver, ‘50s glamour, the cool peripheral rotor, the sheer readability of the complication – it’s a fantastic traveller’s watch from a brand I think too many people are sleeping on.

The Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Worldtimer is also priced well for what it is at £6,600. There are cheaper worldtimers out there; there are more expensive. And I think it’s a fair price for what is a great watch.

More details at Carl F. Bucherer.

It was only the other week when Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the Master Grande Tradition World-Timer, that I thought about the fact that JLC haven’t produced a multi-time zone watch in a while. In the current collection there’s only the Grande Tradition (which is extremely exclusive) and a handful of Master Control references. It’s about time then for a new one in the form of the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic. At the same time, they’ve also released some additional colourways for existing Polaris models.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic

The Geographic is, to all intents and purposes, a worldtimer. It features a second time zone sundial at 6 o’clock that overlaps a 24-hour day/night indicator, allowing you to keep track of multiple time zones at the same time. At the very bottom of the dial is an aperture that shows a prominent city from each of the world’s 24 time zones, and by rotating this scale with the crown at 10 o’clock, the second time zone dial will automatically adjust itself to display the time in that city. It’s a little more elaborate that your standard GMT-based worldtimer.

Aesthetically, it follows the same style as last year’s Polaris Chronographs with its concentric fumé rings. Here they’re presented in ocean-grey lacquer, which is a new colour for the Polaris. It’s really nice, sitting in that transitional space between grey and blue, like slate. Adding points of emphasis are the red accents on the triangle markers, power reserve indicator and seconds hand.

The dial is housed in a 42mm steel case with the broad, brushed lugs and polished facets that help to give the Polaris its bold, sporty appearance. Enhancing that sportiness is the rubber strap, although I do wonder if it might look nicer on a steel bracelet. The case also protects the movement, which is the Calibre 939 with 70-hour power reserve, stunningly crafted. Although that does result in a price tag of £14,800.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Date & Perpetual Calendar

Alongside the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic, JLC have launched a pair of existing Polaris watches in fresh colourways. The first of which is a Polaris Perpetual Calendar in pink gold with a gradient green lacquer dial. It feels very autumnal with the pinks and faded greens, although I suppose you could also flip that to being like the gentle bloom of new growth for spring. In short, a watch you can wear all year round, which is kind of the whole point of a perpetual calendar. It’s priced at £47,800.

The second addition is for the standard time and date model in the same ocean grey as the Geographic. Since the colour is new, it makes sense to add it to an existing edition alongside the new model to capture more of the hype. If you like the colour but aren’t planning the travel the world, you don’t have to buy the world timer model. It’s also a touch more affordable at £10,200, although that’s still very much a JLC price.

More details at Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Every now and then you see a watch and it’s love at first sight. That was my first reaction looking at the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer in its fresh green enamel variant. A verdant and vibrant interpretation of a haute horological world timer.

It’s difficult to know where to start with this watch so let’s cut right to the calibre at its heart. The calibre 948 first emerged in 2017 as part of the Geophysic line before being reimagined in 2022 as part of the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer. It’s what JLC call a Universal Time calibre, meaning that even as the tourbillon rotates on its own axis every 60-seconds, the tourbillon itself is rotating around the centre of the dial once every 24-hours. You’ll see that there is no GMT hand because the tourbillon and all the list of cities attached to the rotating disc serve as the world time indicators.

For the 2024 edition of the watch, the rotating disc that depicts the globe seen from the north pole features an updated aesthetic in rich green enamel. It’s specifically a type of enamel called champlevé, where the artisan carves out a depression in the metal base which is then filled with consecutive layers of enamel to build up a seamless, smooth texture and bold colour.

Each layer of the dial requires firing at extreme temperatures, resulting in high failure rates. The green continents, tourbillon and cities scale are suspended on a pink gold frame that rotates above a blue guilloché backdrop that represents the oceans.

Pink gold is the precious metal of choice here as the 43mm x 14.13mm case is also made from it. Those dimensions make this quite a wide and thick timepiece, but that’s to be expected when combining an haute horological movement with a stunning Metiers d’Art display. Speaking of Metiers, the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer is produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Metiers Rares Atelier, who specialise in delicate artistic techniques like enamel, lacquer and guilloché.

As you may expect, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948 World-Timer is a limited edition of 20 pieces and is price on request. If there’s ever a watch to print out in a poster and put above your bed, it’s this one. A real beauty and a technical stunner.

More details at Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Farer absolutely loves to take a classic concept in watchmaking and present it with a unique twist and colourful design. Back in 2019 the subject of their attentions was the world time complication, which they turned into the very popular Farer World Timer. Now, five years later, they’re revisiting this concept with an updated Farer World Timer collection featuring improved mechanics, better legibility and new colours.

If you’re unfamiliar with the Farer World Timer, it’s a 39mm steel watch with an internal rotating bezel that depicts 24 important global cities to represent the world’s time zones. That bezel is then used in conjunction with the watch’s inner 24-hour display to show the time in every time zone simultaneously. Notably, where a standard world time complication uses a GMT hand to show the time in a singular place on the world time scale from which the time in the other time zones can be extrapolated using a fixed 24-hour scale, the Farer’s 24-hour scale rotates on a disk.

It’s difficult to describe in words but intuitive to understand how the rotating 24-hour scale works. As the time points towards a city on the bezel, it’s that time in that place. So while the 1 is pointing at London, it’s 1am in London, 2 am in Bienne, midnight in the Azores and 1pm in Auckland. Then an hour passes, the disk rotates and it’s 2am in London, 3am in Bienne and 1am in the Azores and 2pm in Auckland.

One of the updates that has happened with the Farer World Timer 2024 launch is that some of the significant locations on the bezel have been changed, including the addition of Bienne which used to be Paris on the 2019 edition. Bienne is regarded as the home place of the world time complication, hence its inclusion. Other changes include the swap from Hong Kong to Beijing and Mexico City to Chicago. Although the more visually impactful change is the update to the hand set, which now uses the blunter and more modern ‘alpha’ shape.

In terms of colour, there are three versions available and in typical Farer fashion they each have a unique name. The Roché II and Markham II are based on the original Roché and Markham, featuring the same colourways of navy blue or red, white and blue respectively. However, the third edition is brand new. It’s called the Foxe and it has a dark forest green design across the varnished guilloché of the dial, accented by light green lettering, numerals and central globe. There is a splash of red on London and the tip of the seconds hand.

The final update for the new Farer World Timer is the movement visible through the exhibition caseback. It’s a heavily modified version of the Sellita SW330-1 Elaboré that Sellita have produced exclusively for Farer. It swaps the GMT hand of the SW330-1 for the Farer’s signature rotating 24-hour complication. It’s also has been upgraded with the mainspring of the SW330-2 in order to improve the power reserve to 50-hours. It’s well documented at this point that Sellita have upgraded the majority of their movements to improve the power reserves but this is the first time I’ve heard of them going back to apply one of those updates to an existing older movement.

All that remains to discuss is the price, which is £1,495 and £150 for an additional stainless steel bracelet alongside the standard St Venere leather strap. For one of the most unique interpretations of the world time complication, I think that price makes sense. Arguably it’s also the truest expression of the complication because the current time in each time zone is always being displayed directly in relation to that time zone. Plus, there are all the nice quality of life improvements to the legibility, style and design of the piece and the new colourway.

More details at Farer.

It seems the trend for making watches lighter is here to stay. However instead of choosing the option of simply rendering their case from titanium, Omega have introduced a brand-new case material for the launch of the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey. The material in question is silicon nitride ceramic or “Si3N4” for the chemists out there.

It’s a material that’s been used before in the Planet Ocean collection and specifically on the bezel of the Planet Ocean 600m Chronograph, however here it’s utilised in the case body to create a lightweight, yet strong dive/travel watch hybrid. Just how lightweight it is, we won’t be sure until we get hands on.

The case itself is large, a little disappointingly so, measuring 45.5 x 17.4mm with a 51.5mm lug-to-lug. Though again we will reserve our judgement until we get it on the wrist. To hammer home the lightweight brief Omega have also used lashings of grade 5 titanium across the rest of the watch, with the bezel body, folding clasp, sand-blasted dial and even the movement using the aeronautical material.

The movement in the Planet Ocean Dark Grey is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8906 which is forged from titanium and adds a GMT function. The view through the open case back is pretty in an industrial way with a sandblasted finish contrasting with purple jewels.

On the dial the the watch continues to live up to its “Dark Grey” name, with anthracite indexes and hands, a grey ceramic bezel and a rubber strap adding to the monochromatic feel, which is only broken up by red accents on the dial text, GMT and seconds’ hand.

Overall, I really love the look of this watch, however I expect the Omega faithful, like myself, would have liked it in 44mm or under. That, and for it to not cost £21,000. Innovation does however come at a price.

More details at Omega.

Alongside the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert, IWC have launched this, the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Woodland. It’s a green ceramic take on one of their less common Pilot’s Watch complications, the worldtimer. A worldtimer is a complication that allows you to tell the time across the world simultaneously and as such is one of the premier travel complications, which is why it makes a lot of sense on a pilot’s watch.

If you want to get into the weeds of technicalities, the Timezoner is slightly different to what we traditionally think of when we picture a worldtimer. Most commonly a worldtimer works in conjunction with a GMT complication, a 24-hour hand, that points to the ring of 24 time zones and cities around the periphery. The Timezoner does away with the GMT hand and instead has a 24-hour display in a window from 11 o’clock to 1 o’clock on the dial.

On top of that, the entire complication is controlled by the ceratanium bezel. Ceratanium is IWC’s proprietary material that combines the structural integrity of titanium with the scratch resistance and hardness of ceramic. By pushing down on the bezel and rotating it not only do you move the 24 time zones and their respective cities, the hour hand, 24-hour display and date will all change to match, making it incredibly easy to adjust your watch to the correct time zones you want it to display.

In terms of this being the Woodland edition, it features a green ceramic bezel insert, a green ceramic 46mm diameter case and a green dial. It’s a very dark shade of green inspired by military flight suits. A flash of colour is brought to the piece by the red lettering of the word Timezoner on the dial and UTC (coordinated universal time) on the bezel.

This watch is powered by the Calibre 82760, an automatic movement with 60-hour power reserve. That’s the same movement as used in the previous full ceratanium edition of the Timezoner. Which is doubly relevant because the Top Gun Woodland edition also shares the same price at £15,900.

Ultimately the IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Woodland is a cool watch and a really interesting watchmaking exercise thanks to the integrated action between the bezel and complications. I just struggle a little bit to visualise who would actually buy it. It’s very big and it’s got a pretty high price. For only twice the price you could have a perpetual calendar or for much less you could have the more popular and more iconic standard Big Pilot’s Watch or Pilot’s Watch. This is the definition of a niche collector’s piece.

More details at IWC.

The Lange 1 Time Zone is one of the most distinctive worldtimer watches that I’ve come across in recent years and now a new edition is here. The new watch is similar to the updated 1815 Rattrapante Perpetual Calendar in that it’s a refresh of an old model in a new material. In this instance the material in question is platinum, making this the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone Platinum.

In principle the way that the Lange 1 Time Zone displays its two time zones isn’t that exotic, but the way it’s presented makes it feel fresh. The primary, local time display is offset towards the lefthand side of the dial, consisting of a 12-hour day/night subdial featuring Roman numerals and a small seconds display. Then, the second time zone is told via another subdial in the bottom right, which is also a 12-hour display with day/night indication but this one has an additional golden arrow that points to the peripheral cities ring to indicate which time zone it’s representing.

Compared with a traditional worldtimer display like the Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT Worldtimer the only real difference is that the Lange 1 separates all the functions out onto their own subdials. Whereas they’re commonly all stacked on top of each other in the centre. What this achieves is that the Lange 1 Time Zone feels like a piece of haute horology even though the complications it features aren’t traditionally described as such.

I think that’s important for this watch because you want it to feel special. The 41.9mm case is made from platinum, one of the most prestigious, expensive and difficult to work with materials in watchmaking. On a purely sentimental level, you want the watch to look as prestigious as it is and I think the Lange 1 Time Zone Platinum achieves that. Plus, it does genuinely look great with the monochromatic rhodium across the dial that matches the case.

The movement inside is the Lange Manufacture Calibre L141.1, a manual piece with a power reserve of 72-hours. It features the main time zone complications that we’ve already discussed but also the signature Lange 1 big date and a power reserve indicator. Through the sapphire exhibition caseback you can also see the immaculate finishing such as the Glashütte stripes on the German silver three-quarter plate.

As for price, well, as with the vast majority of platinum A. Lange & Söhnes the Lange 1 Time Zone Platinum is price on request. Considering that we know the existing pink gold version £61,400, I would put my estimate for the plat in the region of £70-90k. I think it’s a solid watch but ultimately the excitement comes from it being a Lange 1 rather than the individual combination of the platinum and time zone complication. I would be equally interested in a Lange 1 of a different type or doubly excited about a brand new one.

We’ve now touched on the majority of the Seamaster 75^th Anniversary watches, the Diver 300m & Seamaster 300, Planet Ocean 600m, Ploprof, Ultra-Deep. All that’s left to cover are the trio of new Omega Aqua Terra 75^th Anniversary models that complete the celebration. There’s the sunray version, the teak-pattern edition and the World Timer.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m 38mm Ref. 220.10.38.20.03.004

The first of the new Aqua Terras is perhaps the most understated. It’s a 41mm model in stainless steel with a summer blue dial featuring sun-brushed finishing and a slight fumé gradient. By now you’ll likely have noticed that all of the anniversary models are blue but that each has slight differences in their shades.

That’s because the colour corresponds to their water resistance ratings. The Aqua Terras are the lightest at 150m and getting darker as you descend through 300m, 600m, 1,200m and lastly the very dark 6,000m Ultra-Deep. It’s a reference to the amount of light that filters through the water as you descend beneath the waves.

Powering this watch is the Omega Calibre 8800, the same one as features in the new Diver 300m. It has a 55-hour power reserve and all the trappings we expect from Omega, such as the co-axial escapement and master chronometer certification. Oddly, despite having the same movement and a lower water resistance, the Aqua Terra is actually more expensive than the Diver 300m at £6,400 compared to £5,800.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m 41mm Ref. 220.12.41.21.03.005/008

Second up is the Seamaster Aqua Terra 75^th Anniversary with teak-pattern dial. It has the same 41mm steel case as the sunray version above but there are a few notable differences elsewhere. The most obvious difference is that dial, which has horizontal engraved lines that make it look like the decking of a yacht, hence the term teak-pattern. It really works for the Aqua Terra because with its 150m water resistance it’s a watch that likes to be near the water but rarely in it – short dips off the prow of a luxury yacht are the order of the day.

However, the game of spot the difference between the two anniversary watches doesn’t stop there. At 6 o’clock you’ll spot that the date windows are different shapes, circular for the sunray, wedge for the teak. The hour markers are different too (bath tub or triangular) and the teak-edition is the only one with a peripheral minute track. I think these differences are really well executed to make the watches feel like they have different personalities while being so similar in broad terms. The sunray is as gentle as a warm tropical reef while the teak is sharper, like a ship cutting through the surface.

Visual differences aside, the biggest change between the two Aqua Terras is actually inside because the teak-pattern one houses a different movement. It’s the Calibre 8900 as opposed to the 8800, which brings with it all the same certification etc. but has a 60-hour power reserve instead. Only on closely reading the tech sheets of the two movements do you notice that the 8900 also has an additional function in the form of the time-zone feature, which allows you to jump the hour hand forward in increments of one hour – like a true GMT without the GMT part.

The price of £6,100 just highlights again that £6,400 for the sunray version is a little questionable considering both watches have the same case and the more accessible of the two has higher specs. In fact, £6,100 is the price on steel bracelet and the difference becomes even more noticeable on rubber strap at £5,900.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m GMT Worldtimer 43mm

Last but by no means least we have the Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer 75^th Anniversary. It’s a bit larger than its cousins at 43mm, which makes sense since there’s substantially more information on display. That’s because of the inclusion of the titular GMT and worldtimer complications consisting of a 24-hour scale in the middle of the dial and the cities of the world around the periphery.

Well, when I say that the 24-hour scale is in the middle of the dial it’s not actually in the very centre because that’s where you’ll find a depiction of the Earth as seen from the North Pole. I like how they’ve kept the display in line with the theme of the anniversary watches by only colouring the blue of the seas and leaving the land a clean silver tone.

Beneath the dial and hidden by the commemorative caseback is the Omega Calibre 8938 automatic movement. Like the vast majority of Omega calibres, it’s a co-axial escapement piece with master chronometer certification. It has a 60-hour power reserve and features hours, minutes, date, GMT and worldtimer functions. As part of being a GMT it has the same time zone function as the teak-pattern model above, which essentially means it’s a true GMT.

It’s available on steel bracelet or rubber strap costing £9,400 or £9,200 respectively. At this price and with these complications, this is the Aqua Terra firmly leaning into the more refined side of its dive-dress hybrid identity. I think it’s a solid entry into the collection but given the choice of the three watches here, I’d go for the teak-pattern edition.

More details at Omega.

This month marks the return of the Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition after a substantial hiatus following the global pandemic. This is the sixth edition of Patek’s premier solo exhibition and for the occasion they’ve descended on Tokyo to reveal a suite of new releases and celebrate everything Patek. The new watches are the Grand Exhibition Limited Edition Tokyo 2023s and they include a Quadruple Complication, World Time Minute Repeater, World Time, a pair of Calatravas and a moonphase.

Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023

The Quadruple Complication has its origins in the Triple Complication 5208 from 2011, equipped with the same set of complications +1. Specifically, the new watch introduces a second chronograph hand to become a rattrapante chronograph, building on the original chronograph, perpetual calendar and minute repeater complications.

Naturally, the updated set of complications means there’s a new movement powering the piece. It’s the rather complicatedly named Calibre R CHR 27 PS Q. What makes the movement special is the fact that there are two new patented systems designed to lower the energy consumption of the split-seconds chronograph and the clutch, giving the piece a power reserve of 48 hours standard or 38-hour with the chrono engaged. That’s seriously impressive considering the number of energy intensive complications present.

In terms of structure and style, the Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308P-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 has a 42mm case in platinum and a salmon dial. The day, date and month apertures are arrayed across the top of the dial while the 60-minute counter sits at 3 o’clock, the small seconds and moonphase at 6 and lastly the 12-hour counter at 9. In the centre of the face are the hour and minute hands as well as the twin chronograph hands. The hands, hour markers and decorations are all brown to compliment the shiny alligator strap.

This watch is limited to just 15 pieces, making it one of the most exclusive launched at the Grand Exhibition. As with every launch here, it has a Patek Philippe Tokyo inscription on its caseback.

Patek Philippe World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023

Next up is the second limited edition of 15 pieces, the World Time Minute Repeater Ref. 5531R-014. It’s a beautiful piece with a Grand Feu cloisonné enamel dial depicting the historical Chou district of central Tokyo. Cloisonné is a technique that involves using thin gold wire to separate individual coloured areas of the enamel and this dial is one of the most precise and intricate examples I’ve seen in a while. The individual streets, city blocks, woods and river all picked out with exacting finesse and detail.

Beyond the enamel dial, this is a watch we’ve seen before as the 5531 World Time Minute Repeater debuted in 2017 and this is just a Tokyo edition. But that does nothing to detract from the elegance of the 40.2mm rose gold case with its hobnail guilloché minute repeaters slide. Nor the impressive Calibre R 27 HU.

In fact, the Calibre R 27 HU is one of Patek’s seminal movements because it was the first minute repeater to be capable of always chiming the local time. In order to set local time, you adjust the 24-hour cities scale so that your local time zone is positioned at 12 o’clock – since it’s the Tokyo edition that city is highlighted in red. The movement, which has a 48-hour power reserve, is visible beneath a sapphire crystal caseback with the limited edition Tokyo inscription.

Patek Philippe World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023

There’s a second World Time model being released but this one is sans minute repeater. It’s the World Time Ref. 5330G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 of which there are 300 pieces available. It features a lovely, rich plum dial with a hand-guilloché centre in the shape of wavy ripples. Although perhaps more interesting is the fact it houses a new movement with yet another new patent for Patek.

Specifically, it’s the Calibre 240 HU C, an automatic movement with world time and date functions. The patented feature is the differential system that allows the date to update in conjunction with local time. Useful if you find yourself traveling across the date line often. It’s one of those quality of life improvements that most people won’t notice on the day to day and that’s exactly the point – it makes the watch easier to use and you don’t have to worry about operating it.

Like the World Time Minute Repeater, Tokyo has been highlighted in on the world time scale to emphasise its relevance to Japan. But that’s not the only Japanese reference on the dial as the sun on the day/night 24-hour scale has been depicted in the form of the red imperial sun of Japan as seen on their flag.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6127G-010 and 7127G-010

The Calatrava Ref. 6127G-010 and 7127G-010 were first seen in the Japanese market at the end of 2022 but the Grand Exhibition marks them taking to the main stage. They’re a his & hers pair with the 6127G-010 as the men’s 36mm model and the other as the 31mm women’s piece. The concept of his & hers watches has generally fallen out of favour with the majority of brands so it’s always interesting to see it rear its head.

I think the main attraction of these watches are the colourful lacquer dials. The men’s piece is a blue while the women’s is purple, they’re not quite pastel but they’re on the paler side. Compared with the typically classical displays of Calatravas, they feel bold and modern. Which is appropriate for Japan where tradition and modernity rub shoulders on a daily basis.

Powering the pair is the Calibre 215 PS, a manual movement with a 44-hour power reserve. Compared to the other watches in this article, the 215 PS is relatively simple, touting hour, minute and small seconds functions. Once again, the exhibition caseback features the Patek Philippe Tokyo inscription that marks it as a special edition. Speaking of, there are 400 pieces of each colourway available – 300 in paired sets and 100 individually.

Patek Philippe Ladies’ Moon-Phase

Lastly we have the Moon Phase Ref. 7121/200G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023, which is part of the women’s collection. It’s the kind of watch that if it were a bit larger and had a plain bezel option, it would be perfectly unisex. As is, it has a 33mm diameter and the bezel is set with 132 brilliant cut diamonds in a double row.

The dial is sunray brushed with a pearl grey colouration. Compared with the bezel it’s relatively understated, as is the titular moonphase indicator and small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Aesthetically there isn’t much that ties it to Japan and it just appears to be a fresh colourway for the 2022 edition.

There are 200 pieces of this limited edition available. Of the six watches being launched, I think my favourite is the Quadruple Complication, although it’s the World Time models that really capitalise on being launched in Japan by emphasising elements of Japanese culture. Ultimately, Grand Exhibition is a good name for the event considering the launches showcase aspects of most of their collections. The only major model we’re missing is the Nautilus or Aquanaut. 

Today, June 8^th, is the UN World Oceans Day, raising awareness for and celebrating one of the most important and biodiverse habitats on the planet. If you’ve so much as dipped a toe into watch collecting you’ll know that many of the top brands take a passionate stance on conservation. Blancpain has their Ocean Commitment, Seiko has Save the Oceans and PADI collaborations and now Citizen has launched their new Unite with Blue collection for World Oceans Day.

The Unite with Blue collection consists of three watches and they are the Promaster Dive ref. BN0166-01L, Attesa Chronograph ref. AT8188-64L and Attesa ref. CB0215-18L. Let’s kick things off with that Promaster Dive.

Citizen Promaster Dive Unite with Blue Edition Ref. BN0166-01L

The Promaster Dive is in many ways Citizen’s answer to the Seiko Prospex line, which makes sense as they are Japanese compatriots. The watch has a 44mm diameter case in stainless steel with a pronounced diving bezel that’s reminiscent of the Seiko Tuna. For the Unite with Blue edition, the bezel has a two-tone colouration in blue and green that evokes images of the abundant waters of the world’s oceans.

Those colours are also seen on the watch’s dial, which has been constructed from 100% recycled polycarbonate materials. The aquatic colour scheme has been achieved through the use of pigment-free ink that reflects light to create the intricate gradients of blue and green – it’s a beautiful design. Beyond the water themed colours, the dial is well adapted to being under water too with plenty of lume and highly legible circle and wedge-shaped hour markers.

Beneath the surface of the watch is Citizen’s Cal.E168 Eco-Drive movement. Eco-Drive is Citizen’s term for a solar quartz movement that uses the power of light to charge its battery, making the watch long lasting and sustainable. You wouldn’t expect anything else from a watch championing sustainability. The movement also helps the watch to be accessible at just £299 in a limited edition of 7000 pieces.

Citizen Attesa Unite with Blue Edition Ref. AT8188-64L and CB0215-18L

Citizen is pretty famous for having a hugely diverse selection of watches so I wouldn’t blame you for being unfamiliar with the Attesa. It’s one of Citizen’s sportiest lines, which can be seen through the two Unite with Blue editions’ 42mm and 42.5mm diameter cases in titanium. The titanium means they’re super lightweight and durable, both of which are attributes that suit the facetted design.

Of the two Attesas here one is a chronograph model and the other is a worldtimer. Both have dials of the same green-blue colours as the Promaster Dive, although here the colours appear to bleed across the various complications. And there are actually a lot of complications, especially on the chronograph AT8188-64L. It features hours, minutes, seconds, 60-minute timer, 1/20 second chronograph subdial, a 24-hour indicator, days indicator, date window, power reserve indicator and world time display. The CB0215-18L has the same complications sans the chronograph and subdials.

Ref. AT8188-64L (chronograph)

Ref. CB0215-18L (worldtimer)

Housed inside both are Eco-Drive movements. The H.800 for the chrono and the H.145 for the second version. As for availability and pricing, there’s a fairly substantial difference between the two. The chronograph model is £1,495 with 2,400 pieces and the worldtimer is £895 with 2,200 pieces. That differential is largely due to the fact that the chrono comes with a full titanium bracelet while the worldtimer is on an integrated leather strap.

It’s great to see support for such an important cause as World Oceans Day and it’s even better when they have dials as cool as these ones. The combination of colours and the organic gradients between them is really nice. Of the three, I think I’d go for the Promaster Dive because it is a serious value proposition.

More details at Citizen.

Nestled somewhere between diving watch and dress watch, Omega’s Aqua Terra has always been a more streamlined take on nautical style, and one that’s surprisingly diverse, ranging from the super colourful 2022 models to map-based worldtimers. In fact, Omega have revisited the world time function with the newly revealed Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer 2023 and it might just be the best version of the watch, especially with three new variations.

As before, the focal point is the map at the centre, the Earth as viewed in all directions from the North Pole, surrounded by a 24-hour scale on an inner ring and time zone cities on an outer ring (including Omega’s home of Bienne, of course). Additionally, the atlas has been laser ablated, which basically means the various colours and surfaces have been lasered onto a piece of grade 5 titanium for a level of realism and detail that would be impossible by hand. This also means it can be domed to mimic the very not-flat Earth.

It’s a stunning centrepiece for the trio. The first of the three flavours is the titanium edition, with a 43mm case in lightweight, corrosion resistant metal. Here the laser ablation extends to the entire dial rather than just the map. The result is a finer texture than guilloché and a sleek grey and black look. That monochrome-adjacent colourway is extended to the case too, where the brushed titanium case meets black ceramic bezel and black rubber strap.

The other two versions are really just one with different strap options. It’s two references (220.30.43.22.00.001 on a steel bracelet, 220.32.43.22.10.001 on a green rubber strap), but I’m just going to count them as the same watch, as I reckon most people would.

Along with the laser ablated globe, this time with green oceans as opposed to the titanium edition’s light grey, the outer section of dial uses the Aqua Terra Worldtimer’s signature longitudinal lines, again in green. It’s more in keeping with previous models, if not as clean and sleek as the titanium. Contrasting with the green, the cities, hands and indexes are all in gold (other than London, which is always red). It’s finished again with a bit of metal-ceramic contrast between the 43mm stainless steel case and the green ceramic bezel.

Both (or all three, if you’re Omega) versions use the calibre 8938 automatic movement, tested to METAS Master Chronometer standards and with a 60-hour power reserve. It’s protected by 150m of water resistance because, while the Aqua Terra Worldtimers might not be dive watches, they’re nautical; they need to survive more than a splash of water.

Pricewise, the Aqua Terra Worldtimer 2023 is a touch more than previous versions, which would set you back £9,200. Here, the steel versions are £9,900 on rubber and £10,100 on bracelet, with the titanium edition is a slice more at £11,500. That’s a relatively significant increase, but for the shiny new finish on the dial that makes the titanium version one of the most handsome worldtimers around right now, it’s not bad.

Between your Harrods Greens, Bucherer Blues and enough Hodinkee collaborations to populate their storefront, the not-so-humble boutique edition is very much here to stay. It generally makes sense as a concept; who better to understand what their customers are after than those directly selling them watches? That said, recolours of existing watches aren’t exactly high effort endeavours, even if they do typically look good. They speak of a quick turnaround on a straightforward, saleable product. Then there’s the Andersen Genève x Asprey Worldtime.

Andersen Genève began making world time watches over 30 years ago so you’d assume that means they’ve done a fair few in their time. You’d be wrong. The watchmaker only releases a scant handful of models each year and their annual production sits at well, well under 100 pieces. Not 100,000, but 100. If you were wondering why you don’t see them all that often, there you go.

The fact that a watchmaker with such rarefied production has collaborated with a retailer at all shows just how much of an institution Asprey is. They may have moved from their hallowed Bond Street location a little while back, but they’re still purveyor of fine objects to some of London’s most well- heeled patrons. They were never going to collaborate on something we’d consider ‘affordable’.

So, what about the watch itself? Well, it’s basically a revamp of Andersen Genève’s fifth World Time watch, 2015’s Tempus Terrae, which recently saw a pair of anniversary editions with blue gem-set bezels. The Asprey is different for a few reasons. First, it doesn’t have the gem-set bezel, instead opting for plain rose gold. Second, those lugs.

The triangle lugs actually come from previous Andersen Genève models, specifically the 1996’s Secular Perpetual Calendar and 2002’s Orbit Lunae. In fact, the lugs are what came to define both pieces. This being the first World Time model to use them makes for an aesthetic melting pot that should have been fired up well before now.

Of course, most of the action is happening on the dial with that incredible blue gold guilloche. The pattern is inspired by Asprey’s signature engine turning pattern, an intricate series of diamonds in diamonds that you can see on a few Asprey products – though it’s never been used on a watch before. What has been used however is the material, as it’s been an Andersen Genève staple since 2005. In short, this is a greatest hits of the watchmaker’s particular brand of haute horology dressed up in Asprey. It’s hard not to love.

At just under 40mm it sits nicely on the wrist and with the relatively large lettering the various time zones are easy to read without a loupe, something that many world timers fall down on. It does feel like the cities are crowding out the rest of the dial a bit, but from a practical standpoint there’s not much to be done there without enlarging the entire piece.

On the left-hand side at nine o’clock there’s a painstakingly finished quick-change button for the world time function, which is always useful. It’s just not the easiest to use in this instance, which is a shame. Still, it’s awkward because it’s so subtle and once set it makes for a much more elegant looking watch. Swings and roundabouts.

The movement is, as you might expect, stunning. The rotor has been matched to the dial in engine-turned blue gold, which somehow looks even better against the metal of the movement. The calibre itself – with its 40-hour power reserve – is well finished but without ostentation. It’s about as restrained as you can get, unlike the frame: a ring of black jade with the names of both companies inlaid with gold.

Honestly, the amount of effort lavished upon the World Time Asprey puts most boutique editions to shame. It’s not a recolour of anything, but a completely new watch that shows off the elements that have come to define Andersen Genève. Even without the Apsrey link, it would be a great watch; with, it adds that extra twist to make it, in my eyes at least, the most convincing case in 2022 for boutique editions as a concept.

The Andersen Genève x Asprey Worldtime is limited to 24 pieces which sounds miniscule, but given Andersen Genève’s annual production it’s a surprisingly big clutch of timepieces. It also makes sense in an on-the-nose way. 24 pieces for 24 timezones. As for price, it was never going to be cheap: For us mere mortals, that’s never going to happen. For the various millionaires and royals around the world that shop at Asprey though, that’s not too bad. And while Andersen Genève might not have the profile they deserve, it’s a beauty that’s well worth the money.

2022 has been the year of the Freelancer over at Raymond Weil with a new and updated tricompax chronograph, bi-compax chronograph and diver model. Next up on the list of Freelancer complications is the new Freelancer GMT Worldtimer and Freelancer GMT.

There are two editions of the Freelancer GMT Worldtimer in black and green and a singular Freelancer GMT in blue. The black worldtimer model has a 41mm diameter case with a black DLC coating whereas the green edition has a bi-metal construction in steel and bronze.

Naturally, the b-metal version isn’t coated with DLC because that would prevent the bronze from getting a nice patina, which is the entire point of the material. Lastly, the blue GMT is in full stainless steel but follows the same broad design.

All three watches have gradient dials in their core colours surrounded by layers of various scales. Taking a look at the two GMT Worldtimers, there’s an hour and minute scale featuring barrel-shaped hour markers and hands, which serve to tell you the local time. Outside that is a 24-hour scale with day/night indication that corresponds to the central GMT hand with red triangle tip.

Raymond Weil Freelancer GMT

Lastly, outside of that is a rotating cities scale that displays names of 24 prominent world cities, allowing you to establish the time in any time zone on Earth easily. The non-worldtime model is the same sans city scale.

GMTs and worldtimers make natural bedfellows since they both perform similar functions. The main difference is that a worldtimer tracks all time zones and a GMT tracks two. You might therefore wonder why Raymond Weil have combined them on the Freelancer GMT Worldtimer when they perform the same task. Well, in this instance, the GMT hand highlights a specific portion of the worldtimer that represents home time, making it easier to read at a glance.

Under the surface of the three watches is a new movement, the automatic calibre RW3230 with a 50-hour power reserve. The movement measures 4.1mm in thickness, making it very slim and allowing the Freelancer itself to have a thickness of 9.7mm, ideal for slipping under your cuff while you travel across the globe.

All three editions are priced at £2,195, presented on colour matched leather straps. Of to the three, I actually prefer the black worldtimer, which is a surprise even to myself. I think it has a cleaner look with the DLC case that fits into the personality of a jet-setting world traveller. The green and blue are still great pieces though, with more adventure-ready vibes.

One of Montblanc’s signature complications is the world timer through their unique Geosphere function. Geospheres allow you to read the time across the world but lack the traditional world cities scale, however, Montblanc have also produced conventional world timers in the form of the Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum. For 2022 they’ve released a new version of the Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum in steel and rose gold.

What’s intriguing about this watch is that the previous editions were full steel and full rose gold, making the new version a fusion of the two. It’s important to mention that while the new piece is steel and gold, it’s not bi-colour in the typical sense of a bi-metallic case. Instead, the 43mm case is steel and the dial has a rose gold plated depiction of the Earth.

A second intriguing element is the use of a North Pole centred map instead of the regular world map we’re familiar with, as used in the Moritz Grossman Universalzeit. It means that the orientation of the globe matches the locations of the cities on the peripheral scale, making the complication more readable even though it appears distorted at first. Outside of the worldtimer, the dial has a black and grey colourway split evenly across the dial to give day/night indication.

As a relatively simple recolour, the dial is the primary focus of the launch. Hence, the Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum houses the same movement as its predecessors, the Montblanc Calibre MB 29.20 with automatic winding and 42-hour power reserve. Overall, the new piece adds a more serious tone to the model, the darker dial contrasting to the brightness of previous versions without altering any of the functionality. At £5,800 it’s on the lower end of Montblanc’s prices for the Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum, so it’s a certainly a welcome reinterpretation of the model.

Patek Philippe seem determined to single-handedly reverse the (temporary) decline of the second-hand watch market with the launch of a timepiece that’s guaranteed to become a cult icon. That’s an easy guarantee to give because the model it’s based on, the World Timer Chronograph, is itself already a huge cult hit. Meet the Patek Philippe World Time Chronograph Ref. 5935A-001 in stainless steel.

When the words ‘steel’ and ‘Patek Philippe’ get used together, collectors start salivating immediately. That’s because it’s not a material that Patek uses all that often and when they do use it, it’s typically on their sporty models like the Nautilus and the Aquanaut. Meaning that a steel complication watch is exceptionally rare.

Plus, steel works really well for world time watches because it’s the ultimate traveller’s complication, allowing you to read the time across the globe at a glance. Travelling can be an incredibly taxing experience on wristwatches because there’s always a chance for bumps and scrapes during transit, especially for a fairly large watch like the Ref. 5935 at 41mm. Which is where steel comes in, as it’s far more scratch resistant and robust compared to precious metals.

However, a steel case alone does not a cult icon make. It’s the combination of the Ref. 5935’s case and dial that are sure to prove it a hit. The dial is made from rose-gilt opaline with a carbon-motif, elevating the piece with an elegance that contrasts to the steel case. It’s the same juxtaposition of styles and aesthetic that make the Nautilus a sports luxe legend and while I’ve never wanted to call a world timer sports luxe before, it almost seems appropriate here.

Housed inside is the same automatic Calibre CH 28-520 HU world timer, flyback chronograph movement Patek Philippe use in the majority of their World Time Chronographs, such as last year’s green model with the Ref. 5930P-001. It has a 55-hour power reserve with hours, minutes, flyback chronograph and 30-minute timer complications. Plus, there’s the 24-hour scale and world time indicators on the dial.

Price wise, Patek Philippe have it listed at £51,430. That’s already a sizeable amount of money but once it hits the second-hand market, expect to see those prices skyrocket to ludicrous levels.

With a name like Montblanc, the watchmaker has a certain resonance with the mountains which, as ambassador Nims Purja explained in our recent interview with him, is the ultimate trial of physical and mental fortitude. The man himself wears the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph 0 Oxygen, which has now been updated with the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen LE1786.

The new edition is inspired by the tallest mountain in the Alps, Mont Blanc, and it was taken on an expedition to Mont Blanc’s summit by Simon Messner, the son of legendary mountaineer Reinhold Messner – the first man to climb Everest without supplemental oxygen.

The idea of no supplemental oxygen resonates with the Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen LE1786 because its movement, the MB 29.25 automatic, contains zero oxygen. The lack of oxygen prevents unwanted mist forming in the watch at high altitudes and protects the movement from oxidation, improving its longevity.

This calibre is only the second movement constructed in this way, following the MB 29.27 chronograph used in the Everest edition. It’s interesting because the MB 29.25 isn’t a new movement, which means presumably Montblanc can produce any movement with ‘0 Oxygen’. In terms of specs, MB 29.25 has a 42-hour power reserve and features hours, minutes, 12-hour second time zone, world time and date functions.

Stylistically, the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen LE1786 has had a few deviations from the original 0 Oxygen. Most obvious is the updated case which is now made from bronze with a diameter of 42mm as opposed to the previous version’s 44mm in titanium. Bronze is a popular watchmaking material because it patinas over time, a physical representation of the adventures it’s been on.

On the watch’s caseback you’ll find an engraving of Mont Blanc marked with the route Simon Messner took it on during their expedition together. For budding mountaineers, that route starts at France’s L’Aiguille du Midi before progressing via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit to reach Mont Blanc.

Regarding availability and price, there are 1,786 pieces available for £5,500. If you’re wondering about the relevance of the number 1786, which is both the limited edition quantity and part of the watch’s name, 1786 is the year of the first recorded summiting of Mont Blanc.

Oris’ Hölstein series has become one of the most interesting annual releases in the watchmaking calendar. Since 2020, they have been releasing a limited edition timepiece to coincide with the brand’s anniversary on June 1, 1904. In 2020 the Hölstein Edition was a bronze chronograph and in 2021 it was a Big Crown Pointer Date. The Hölstein Edition 2022 is perhaps the most intriguing of all, a revival of the 1990s Oris Full Steel Worldtimer.

The Full Steel Worldtimer launched in 1998 and at the time was the most advanced Oris timepiece to date. It’s worth noting that Oris’ definition of a “worldtimer” is completely different to the common usage of the term. Most worldtimers are a variant of a GMT function that displays the time in every time zone simultaneously. Oris’ is a dual time zone watch with the capacity to jump local time forwards and backwards by the hour.

For the watch’s revival as the Hölstein Edition 2022, Oris have taken a very faithful approach. It features a vintage-proportioned 36.5mm diameter case in stainless steel with a large crown. More important though are the two pushers at 4 and 8 o’clock that adjust local time quickly. Two red triangles on the dial, decorated with + and – symbols, indicate which way the pushers jump the local time display.

The rest of the dial is also accurate to the original. Central hour and minute hands, a local time small seconds counter at 9 o’clock and an hour and minutes subdial at 3 for home time.

However, there is one major departure from the original, which is the watch’s caseback. The new timepiece follows in the traditions of the Hölstein series by having an engraving of the Hölstein Bear. The bear, a mascot for the brand, symbolises Oris’ commitment to the village where the company was founded, Hölstein.

What’s particularly cool about the Hölstein Edition 2022 is that it houses the calibre 690, the original movement from the 90s. The term for an old vintage movement used in a new timepiece is “new old stock” and it’s something many watchmakers do for special editions, for example last year’s Fears Archival.

The 690 is based on the ETA 2836-2 with a 38-hour power reserve. By modern standards, that power reserve isn’t stellar, but its capabilities were significant at the time. Particularly the mechanism that automatically adjusts the date when you use the local time jumpers to move across midnight in either direction, a world first.

Only 250 Hölstein Edition 2022 Full Steels will be produced with each watch delivered in a special wooden presentation box. Personally, I prefer the recent ProPilot X Calibre 400 for its forward facing experimentation, but I appreciate that the Hölstein annual release is the perfect way to explore interesting revival designs. The 2022 edition’s price is CHF 4,000 (approx. £3,325).

Having recently launched the new Captain Cook Ceramic Diver, Rado are continuing to expand the Captain Cook range. This time with a limited edition world timer called the Captain Cook Over-Pole.

It’s a vintage style timepiece with a stainless steel case in a diameter of 37mm, following the size trends of the sixties when the original Over-Pole Worldtimer was launched. However, that’s not to say the new version doesn’t also use modern elements. The Captain Cook Over-Pole features a high-tech ceramic bezel, laser engraving and a boxed sapphire crystal. Rado are masters of the ceramic material so it would be a crime if it didn’t feature on this limited edition in at least some capacity.

That bezel is engraved with the names of 24 iconic cities and locations and serves as the world time function. Allowing you to keep track of the time across the globe, which is what gives world timers the distinction of being the ultimate travel complication. The bezel is further complemented by a 24-hour scale around the periphery of the dial.

In terms of style, the Captain Cook Over-Pole’s dial is sunray brushed with a silver-black gradient. The gradient works really well, fading from the steel tone of the case to the black of the ceramic bezel. It provides a backdrop for the faceted hour markers and central hour, minute, second hands. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock.

Inside and visible through the exhibition caseback is the Rado calibre R862 calibre. It’s a manual movement that has a great 80-hour power reserve. Plus, to maintain the Captain Cook’s adventurous and travel ready spirit it’s equipped with a Nivachron antimagnetic hairspring.

The Rado Captain Cook Over-Pole is limited to 1962 pieces at a price of £2,230. That’s pretty amazing value given the quality of its movement and construction. It’s a nice vintage inspired watch with a practical complication, which is what the Captain Cook collection is all about.