Usually it takes a while for a watch to become an icon but Blancpain knew they were onto a winner with the Fifty Fathoms very quickly. In fact, it only took them three years after the launch of the original in 1953 to create a more streamlined edition for daily wear as opposed to a professional dive watch. This more contemporary edition, released in 1956, is the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe. Now, almost 70 years later, the Bathyscaphe is getting a ceramic update with the new Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune in black ceramic, which we have been able to review in the metal… or rather, in the ceramic.
This is the first time that the complete calendar with moonphase has been presented in a ceramic case (discover what makes it a complete calendar here). It measures 43.6mm in diameter with a thickness of 14.1mm, which means it does wear very large on the wrist. Being so large is something of a double edge sword because it reduces the wearability of the piece while also making the calendar display nice and big, which helps with readability. Plus, it’s in keeping with the watch’s diving heritage, as is the 300m water resistance rating and unidirectional diving bezel.
Also in the watch’s favour is the fact it’s made from high tech ceramic. This means that the case is very durable and scratch resistant with a colour that will not fade. That colour is specifically black with a brushed finish that makes it appear to shimmer with a silver sheen in certain lighting. One thing to note though is that it is quite a hefty watch and the ceramic does little to alleviate the weight.
In addition to the new ceramic case, the Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune Ceramic is presented on a new ceramic bracelet. In fact, this is the first ceramic bracelet Blancpain have ever produced, offering a new sporty and durable strap option for their ceramic collections (namely the Flyback Chronographe and Automatique).
Each link of the bracelet is precisely measured and held using a patented mounting system using cam-shaped pins. Basically, it makes the whole construction incredibly solid and there is no twisting of the links here. Although the cost of that is each link is quite chunky. The black colour matches that of the case giving the piece a cohesive appearance, once again with that silver shimmer depending how the light hits it. It’s also available on canvas or NATO style straps if the bracelet doesn’t appeal.
Looking to the dial, it features blue sunray brushed finishing with black hands and hour markers. The moonphase complication at 6 o’clock has a dark blue background adorned with a silver moon featuring a face depiction. In a similar style to the ceramic of the case, the moon appears to shift and change depending on the lighting (it can be quite tricky to see at times) which adds to the mystical allure. Elsewhere on the dial, there’s days and months windows below 12 o’clock and a pointer date function running around the inside of the hour scale.
Powering all the Bathyscaphe Quantième Complet Phases de Lune in ceramic’s complications is the calibre 6654.P4. It’s an automatic movement with a double barrel system providing a power reserve of 72 hours. Plus, the silicon balance spring provides good magnetic field resistance.
The watch is priced at £24,200, which puts it roughly halfway between the titanium and rose gold editions of the existing collection. At that price it certainly feels expensive, but it’s also in the unique watchmaking niche of being an haute horology dive watch, which helps to justify it. Ultimately, it’s a weird beast full of interesting concepts and design choices that all feel like they’re pulling in different directions. But that just means there’s more to fall in love with if you do like it.
Price and Specs:
More details at Blancpain.
