While IWC’s star launch of Watches & Wonders 2024 is the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, a star is only as good as its supporting cast. Fortunately, the extremely rare secular perpetual calendar is backed up by a trio of regular perpetual calendars, which is about as strong of a retinue as you could ask for. IWC have really gone all out on the horological royalty this year. So, let’s check out the new IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44.
Perpetual calendars have been a mainstay of the Portugieser collection since they were first introduced more than 20 years ago in 2003. Which means that the four new editions being added to the range are redesigns and new colours rather than being revolutionary new models like the Eternal Calendar. But for all that, the updates are really nice.
Starting with the 44mm case, the peripheral case ring has been thinned, making for a slimmer side-on profile and a more refined construction. Although the overall thickness remains the same as the previous model at 14.9mm. Plus, new box sapphire crystals on the front and exhibition back make it very elegant and easy to see both the dial and the movement.
The new case is available in a choice of two metals. The first is 18k white gold and the second is 18k Armor Gold. Armor Gold is IWC’s proprietary rose gold alloy that has an improved micro-structure, making it more hard-wearing than traditional golds. The white gold has been paired with the silver horizon blue and khaki dune dial options and the Armour Gold® is available with the black and silver-white dial options.
Speaking of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44’s dials, there have been aesthetic updates there too – not just the new colours that IWC have used across the majority of their launches at Watches and Wonders this year. The rich, glossy finish has been achieved using 15 layers of transparent lacquer, making for an exceptionally smooth appearance on the main body of the display as well as the recessed subdials. The display itself is crammed full of information with day, date, month, moonphase, hours, minutes, seconds and a power reserve indicator all featuring. But the clear typography and wide spacing makes it very legible.
Beneath the updated dial is a familiar movement, the IWC manufacture calibre 52616, which has been their high spec perpetual calendar movement for several years at this point. However, it’s still class leading with a 7-day power reserve and pellaton winding. Having such a large power reserve is a godsend for a perpetual calendar, where resetting the watch can sometimes be an absolute pain.
In terms of price, the two Armor Gold editions of the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 are CHF 45,000 (approx. £39,000) and the white gold versions are slightly more at CHF 48,000 (approx. £42,000). Neither comes close to the Eternal Calendar I mentioned in the introduction, which is up at CHF 150,000, but that’s due to its improved movement and platinum case. It’s rare that you’ll see a release that makes a gold perpetual calendar look affordable in comparison. Ultimately, I think the four additions to the line up offer solid quality of life improvements to the range and the new colours look great.
Price and Specs:
More details at IWC.
