Patek Philippe Launch Two New Aquanauts Including First Annual Calendar

Alongside the new Calatrava Travel Time 24-hour Patek have been expanding on their Aquanaut collection with the collection’s first ever annual calendar and another rendition of the chronograph. They are the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar 5261R-001 and Aquanaut Chronograph 5968R-001 and with them in front of me I can’t help but think they’re pretty spectacular.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar 5261R-001

Now, let’s address the elephant in the room, as part of the Aquanaut Luce line the 5261R-001 is technically part of Patek’s women’s line. However, you just need to look at the piece to see that it’s perfectly unisex. The colour is fantastic, the bezel is smooth without gems (which is something I’ve wanted to see since the 2021 Aquanaut Luce revamp) and at a 39.9mm diameter in rose gold it’s well sized for all wrists.

Trying it on, it feels great. The composite strap is incredibly comfortable and tactile while the case sits perfectly on my wrist. I also find that it’s while wearing the piece that the signature textured dial comes alive. I initially thought the new annual calendar display would be too busy for the relatively compact dial but that simply isn’t the case. The careful positioning of the moonphase, date window, days and months indicators is really well done, gently intersecting with the peripheral hour scale.

Powering the piece is a new movement, the Calibre 26-330 S QA LU, which is automatic with a power reserve of 45-hours. It’s based on the 2019 weekly calendar movement, which has incredible reliability and accuracy, for example the moonphase will only deviate by one day after 122 years.

It’s priced at £49,530, putting it in the mid-range of Aquanaut Luce prices between the quartz models on the lower end and the haute jewellery pieces at the high end.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut Chronograph 5968R-001

The 5968R-001 is simply a fresh material and colourway for the existing Aquanaut Chronograph, so it’s a mildly less significant launch than the Luce. However, that doesn’t mean it isn’t impressive in its own right. Swapping the watches over, the Chrono is noticeably larger at 42.2mm in diameter, also in rose gold. Although, with the two watches side by side the different alloys of rose gold that Patek Philippe use for the men’s and women’s lines respectively is apparent. Differing quantities of copper content make the men’s piece make it much darker and redder, while the Luce almost has a yellow gold appearance.

To pair with the golden case the Chrono has a dark brown dial, which is gorgeous in its dark chocolate tone. There’s a gentle gradient fading towards black around the circumference that emphasises the sunburst finishing.

Turning the piece over reveals the movement through the exhibition caseback. It’s the Calibre CH 28‑520 C, a flyback chronograph with a 60-minute counter and date complication. It has a higher power reserve than the Annual Calendar at 55-hours. It’s priced at CHF 64,000, and with it in my hands, it seems worth it to me. It’s also nice to see the Aquanaut get some love as opposed to its cousin the Nautilus.