As one of the oldest complications in watchmaking, the moonphase taps into a collective fascination with the starry night sky, which people have held for thousands of years. And no matter how gloriously unnecessary it might be today, mechanical moonphase watches remain an irresistibly unnecessary addition to a gentleman’s watch collection at any price level or budget.
Moonphase complications are not particularly rare, featuring in calendar watches and grand complications galore and if we mentioned all of them, we’d all still be here when the next full moon rolls around. You can check out our top calendar watches here. Instead, we’re focussing on those watches that put the emphasis squarely on the moon and its horological complication.
echo/neutra Averau 39 Moon Phase ‘Big Moon’
The echo/neutra Averau 39 Moon Phase ‘Big Moon’ features a photo-realistic depiction of the moon at 6 o’clock. Rather than the traditional rotating discs that physically show the phases of the moon, the moon here rotates on a central axis while two indicators that point to a peripheral scale showing the positions of the moon. It’s powered by the Sellita SW280-1 Elaboré movement with 41-hour power reserve.
Case/dial: 39mm diameter stainless steel case, black dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW280-1, automatic, 26 jewels, 41h power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency
Strap: NATO
Price: £590
Farer Halley Moonphase
A less conventional take on the complication is the Farer Halley Moonphase, which has a bold use of colour that almost feels like it has a pop art influence. Rich navy, pale blue, light yellow and striking red. It’s relatively svelte as well with a 38.5mm diameter case, which houses the Sellita SW288-1 Ma Calibre operating at 4 Hz with a 45-hour power reserve.
Case/dial: 38.5mm diameter x 10.5mm thickness, stainless steel case, midnight blue gloss dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW288-1 Ma Elaboré, automatic, 18 jewels, 45h power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Strap: Leather
Price: £1,495
Frederique Constant Classics Heart Beat Moonphase Date
The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase features the archetypical moonphase complication. A half-disk aperture with a dark blue background depicting the night sky adorned with stars and the centrepiece moon. The classical interpretation of the function is matched by a very classical watch with Roman numerals, Clous de Paris decoration and a 40mm diameter. It’s powered by the FC-335 calibre 38-hour power reserve.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 10mm thickness, titanium case, silver colour dial
Water resistance: 60m (6 bar)
Movement: Frederique Constant calibre FC-335, automatic, 38h power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency
Strap: Leather
Price: £1,795
Ball Trainmaster Moonphase
One thing that makes Ball stand out from other watchmakers is their use of micro gas tubes in the place of regular forms of lume. In their entire range, one of the most inventive uses of this technology is the Ball Trainmaster Moonphase where the entire moon is made from glowing tubes – the phases shown via a shadow passing in front of the static image. The movement is the BALL RR1801.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 14.55mm thickness, stainless steel case, blue dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Ball calibre BALL RR1801, automatic, 38h power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £1,877
Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase
You don’t get much more on the nose than the Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase, which has such a large and vibrant moon that it almost appears luminous. It’s presented against a dark sea of aventurine glass stars, a gorgeous celestial landscape. The case is relatively sporty with a diameter of 40.5mm. It houses the calibre JJ04 automatic with 38-hour power reserve.
Case/dial: 40.5mm diameter x 13.3mm thicknessm stainless steel case, midnight blue dial
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Christopher Ward calibre JJ04, automatic, 38h power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency
Strap: Stainless steel consort bracelet
Price: £2,120
Mühle Glashütte Teutonia IV Blue Moon
Ok, I’ll say it, minimalist moonphases are sexy. The simplification and stylisation of the moon on the Mühle Glashütte Teutonia IV Blue Moon adds a huge amount of character to what is otherwise a very straight and narrow timepiece for daily office use. Another intriguing aspect is the orientation, sitting off-centre towards 8 o’clock. The watch is 39mm in diameter and houses the Sellita SW 288-1, the same movement used in the Farer, albeit an updated Mühle version with woodpecker regulator.
Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 11.8mm thickness, stainless steel case, nightblue dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW 288-1, automatic, 41h power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency
Strap: Leather
Price: €2,700 (approx. £2,210)
Longines Master Collection Moonphase
The Longines Master Collection Moonphase offers a very restrained and elegant interpretation of the moonphase. Admittedly the moonphase itself is quite small on the dial but that helps lend the piece a smart and reserved attitude. It has a 42mm diameter case with a sunray brushed dial that features the moonphase complication at 6 o’clock alongside a pointer date function. It uses the Longines Calibre L899 with 72-hour power reserve. A modern classic.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 11.20mm thickness, stainless steel case, sunray blue dial
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Longines calibre L899, automatic, 72h power reserve, 25,200 vph (3.5 Hz) frequency
Strap: Alligator
Price: £2,500
Meistersinger Lunascope
Meistersinger know a thing or two about creating understated watches that highlight a central element, after all they are the master of single-handed watches. The Lunascope takes that refinement and applies it to the moon with a huge moonphase disc below 12 o’clock. It is gorgeous and sedate, just like the single hand of the watch. The movement, dubbed the MS Luna, is a specially modified version of the Sellita SW220.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 12mm thickness, stainless steel case, sunburst blue dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW220, automatic, 26 jewels, 38h power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency
Strap: Leather
Price: $4,650 (approx. £3,660)
ochs und junior moon phase
The ochs und junior moon phase is inspired by the Nebra Sky Disc and features a central moonphase complication with two discs, one representing the moon and the other representing the absence of the moon. When the first disc is full it’s the full moon and when the second is full it’s the new moon. It measures 42mm in diameter and houses the ETA calibre 2824-2, automatic movement.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter, titanium case, rhodium plated dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: ETA calibre 2824-2, automatic, 25 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Sturgeon
Price: CHF 8,800, (approx. £7,880)
Panerai Luminor Due Luna
The Panerai Luminor Due is on the smaller side for Panerai, which means it’s 38mm in diameter. However, it retains the classic cushion case and bold design that have always been part of the brand’s history. Instead of the normal date window at 3 o’clock, the Luna replaces that with a well-sized moonphase which balances out the small seconds subdial on the opposite side. It’s powered by the P.900/MP calibre with three-day power reserve.
Case/dial: 38mm diameter, stainless steel case, sun-brushed blue dial
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Panerai calibre P.900/MP, automatic, 23 jewels, 3 day power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency
Strap: Blue alligator leather
Price: £8,300
Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar
Glashütte Original’s PanoMaticLunar falls into a style of modern Saxon watchmaking also exemplified by A. Lange & Söhne. It has a dial with off-centre time display and a moonphase angled off to one side. It’s an unusual positioning for a moonphase and one that intrigues the eye. The movement inside the 40mm case is the calibre 90-02 manufacture piece.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter red gold case, green dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Glashütte Original calibre 90-02, automatic, 47 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Green alligator leather
Price: £18,400
Garrick S5 Moon Phase
The Garrick S5 Moon Phase features a hand-engraved guilloché pattern dial in the centre and around the periphery. At 6 o’clock you’ll find the titular moonphase decorated with a field of stars. The style of the moonphase can also be customised as Garrick create their watches on a made-to-order basis. It’s powered by the Garrick calibre UT-G05. Of note, Garrick’s limited build slots mean the watch may not be available again until late 2025 or even 2026.
Case/dial: 39mm diameter x 8mm thickness, stainless steel case, engine turned dial in a choice of patterns or colours
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Garrick calibre S5, manual, 20 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 60h power reserve
Strap: Alligator, calf leather, buffalo or ostrich
Price: £24,000
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moonphase Retrograde Date
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moonphase Retrograde Date is a watch that deserves more time in the spotlight. It combines the sporty style of a 41mm diameter steel integrated bracelet sports watch with the refined moonphase complication and the titular retrograde date function. A retrograde indicator is linear, with the hand jumping back to the start once it completes a cycle. The movement inside is the Calibre 2460 R31L/2.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 10.48mm thickness, stainless steel case, blue dial
Water resistance: 50m (5 bar)
Movement: Vacheron Constantin calibre 2460 R31L/2, automatic, 27 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 40h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £42,200
Arnold & Son Luna Magna Meteorite Red Gold
Arnold & Son are arguably the kings of the moonphase with the Luna Magna collection, which is one of the most impressive dedicated moonphase watches around. Instead of a 2D disc it features a 3D orb that rotates on a vertical axis like the globe. Each hemisphere is a different material with a pearlescent side for the moon and a blue meteorite half for the void of space. It’s amazing how the natural curve of the orb creates the illusion of the moon’s phases. It’s powered by the calibre A&S1021.
Case/dial: 44mm diameter 18k red gold case, blue PVD meteorite dial
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Arnold & Son calibre A&S1021, manual, 35 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 90h power reserve
Strap: Blue alligator leather
Price: £58,600, limited to 38 pieces
HYT Moon Runner
HYT’s Moon Runner is a hyper modern interpretation of the moonphase that, similar to the Arnold & Son above, uses a 3D moonphase complication. However, the HYT goes further by positioning it centrally and encasing it within a series of date and month rings. The movement is the Ref. 601-MO, a manual wind piece with a 72-hour power reserve. Housed in a case made from titanium and carbon.
Case/dial: 48mm diameter x 17.2mm thickness, titanium and carbon case, black coated brass dial
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: HYT calibre 601-MO, manual, 42 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 72h power reserve
Strap: Black rubber
Price: CHF 125,000 (approx. £112,000), limited to 15 pieces
A.Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 Moonphase
The Grand Lange 1 Moonphase is features a prominently positioned moonphase complication, located right in the centre of the hours and minutes display. It’s also one of the larger moonphase subdials around, occupying a substantial portion of the dial. The case measures 41mm in diameter and is available in several materials including a platinum boutique edition. The calibre is the L095.3 manual with 72-hour power reserve.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 9.5mm thickness, platinum case, Rhodié dial
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: A. Lange & Sohne calibre L095.3, manual, 45 jewels, 21,600 vph (3 Hz) frequency, 72h power reserve
Strap: Black alligator leather
Price: Price on request
