What is the most influential watch model introduced in this decade? By which I mean a family or sub-family of watches that did not exist prior to 2020 but that has become an industry and collector staple. There are two that come to mind. First is the Rolex 1908 because how can it not be. Second is the Zenith Defy Skyline, a sub-collection of the Defy range that helped to define the integrated bracelet sports watch trend of 2020-2023. I got hands-on with the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic learn more about where the series is heading.
Strapping on the white ceramic watch it’s impossible not to be drawn to talk about the material first. The irregular octagonal case, the dodecagon bezel and H-link bracelet are all made from ceramic with a brushed surface in pristine white – as bold and brash as they come. The watch body has some weight to it, the bracelet feels very light which leads to some complaints that the watch feels too much like a toy. However, as someone who owned a white plastic Swatch with a union jack dial when I was 11 because I thought it was cool (forgive me), I can tell you that this is a very different beast.
Measuring 41mm in diameter with a height of roughly 13mm, it’s large without being unwieldy. The flat, facetted surfaces make it feel broad, as does the oversize crown that hints at Zenith’s aviation roots. On the wrist it has undeniable presence but at the same time it’s not particularly difficult to slip under a cuff if needed. Plus, the ceramic and sapphire caseback is completely flat, making it smooth against the skin and very comfortable.
Focussing in on the dial, it’s as bold as the case its housed in. A blue open-worked number skeletonised into the shape of a four-point star. I’ve seen a lot of Skyline Skeletons online but this is my first time seeing one in the metal and I have to say, it’s a lot cooler in person. Online images really do not do justice to the depth and layering of the mechanisms on display. Plus, the blue colour really responds well to different lighting conditions, ranging from almost black to bright sapphire blue.
However, the highlight of the display is the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. It’s a 1/10th of a second indicator, meaning that the hand rotates once every 10 seconds as opposed to once every 60, giving it a dynamic and energetic appearance. It’s powered by the calibre El Primero 3620 SK, which is the first movement in the world with a 1/10th running seconds display. It also operates at a high 5 Hz frequency with a power reserve of 55-hours.
Is the Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic a watch for everyone? Definitely not. The bold aesthetic is definitely an acquired taste and it will only suit people with the charisma and character to pull it off. Plus, the £15,800 price tag is quite a significant barrier to entry. However, I’d also say that this is not a watch to dismiss outright at first glance, spending time with it really reveals that it’s quite a stunner.
Price and Specs:
More details at Zenith.
