The rumours are true: Patek Philippe’s first new collection since 1999 is here and, unless you’ve had your ear to the ground for the last couple of weeks, it’s probably not what you’re expecting. This is, of course, the new Patek Philippe Cubitus – and it’s certainly something. It’s also, very firmly (according to Patek themselves) square.

The Cubitus is, first and foremost, Patek Philippe’s first square watch. They’ve dabbled in ellipses aplenty, circles of all sizes and whatever you want to call the Gondola, but this is their first square, and was apparently somewhat of a passion project for Patek’s Thierry Stern: “since I was quite young, I always challenged myself to say, ‘I need to have also a beautiful square watch in the collection.’ So that’s how we started, actually.”

And yet, it’s not entirely square, either. With it’s octagonal bezel, with four shorter and four longer sides, it aesthetically feels like they’ve simply squared the circle of the Nautilus. The similarities to Patek’s genuinely iconic sports watch don’t stop there either. The new Cubitus has similar bold shoulders either side and even the same grooved dial and integrated bracelet as the Nautilus. So while it may be a first for the Swiss watchmaker and might feel pretty left-field, it’s not exactly a huge departure from their usual sports style. If you’ve ever seen the old ‘Nautellipse’, the Cubitus fits in rather well.

As you’d expect with this calibre of watchmaking, the case surfaces are alternately brushed and polished, emphasising that striking shape across the many edges. I don’t really need to go into the finishing too much; it’s a Patek, you know it’s going to be phenomenal.

There are currently three models in the collection. The first is in steel with a green dial, marking an entrypoint into the Cubitus collection. The second is my favourite of the three, a rose gold and steel bi-colour number with a classic blue dial. The last is the complicated version, a platinum case with a blue dial and grand date, day subdial and moonphase.

The green will set you back £35,330, the bi-colour £52,480 and the platinum £75,690. The time-only models are equipped with the calibre 26-330 C with a 35–45-hour power reserve. The day-date watch uses the 240 PS with a 38–48-hour power reserve. All the movements are, of course, visible through the exhibition case back and are, equally obviously, stunning.

Now, there’s been some divisiveness around the Cubitus. Square watches aren’t for everyone and a square version of the Nautilus isn’t something anyone was particularly clamouring for – except perhaps Stern himself. But all the furore is around the shape. The watch itself is well-made, has all those Patek hallmarks and scratches that well-heeled steel sports watch itch. I imagine it will go the way of the Code 11:59, divisive now but something we’ll all soon calm down over and accept. At the very least, it’s nice to have something even harder to get hold of than a Nautilus.

It might not be the 5711 replacement we were all hoping for, but maybe it’s the one we deserve?

More details at Patek Philippe.

I must admit that I have never visited Venice but the more I look at Venezianico’s watches the more I want to. Venezianico, for those unfamiliar, is an Italian microbrand that takes its inspiration from the aquatic city it calls home. Surrounded by water as they are, their flagship watch is the Nereide, a cool dive watch available in a number of colours and styles. They also produce a dress watch and a chronograph. However, their newest collection is none of those things. Instead, it’s a somewhat sporty, industrial-chic watch with an integrated bracelet called the Venezianico Arsenale.

The name Arsenale comes from a famous building in Venice. The Arsenale was built in 1104 and is the major pre-industrial shipyard and production facility that crafted The Republic of Venice’s legendary trading and military fleet, which made the city a powerhouse in the Mediterranean. It was the industrial heart of the city employing around 2,000 people at maximum capacity. It’s where the hard work happened to turn the rest of Venice into the cultural centre of art and design as we know it today.

It’s this combination of industry and culture that inspired the Venezianico Arsenale. Starting with the case, it has a 40mm diameter in steel with an integrated bracelet design. Steel integrated bracelet watches were popularised in the 1970s by famous designers like Gerald Genta who created timepieces like the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and IWC Ingenieur. They tend to have bold, sporty shapes and geometric focusses that give them a quasi-industrial aesthetic and the same is true of the Arsenale here.

It has a round design with large, flat surfaces and sharply angled facets that lead directly into the bracelet. The bracelet itself is the latest generation of Venezianico’s Canova Concept, a style of H-link bracelet where the links alternate between being convex and concave. The facets of the design are further emphasised by the contrasting brushed and polished finishing on alternating surfaces. Matching that is the coin-edged bezel, which really shows the blend of refinement and industrial vibes.

Continuing that same concept is the dial, which has Côtes de Genève finishing available in either blue, anthracite or violet. Côtes de Genève, sometimes known as Geneva Stripes due to the vertical striped appearance it creates, is a form of elegant finishing often seen on a watch’s movement. It’s associated with the machinery and mechanics of a watch, not typically the main display. Industry presented as art – this watch has really nailed its theme. Beyond the finishing of the dial, it remains quite modest and restrained. It has understated baton hour markers, skeletonised dauphine hands and the brand’s Venetian cross logo.

Protected by a solid caseback that depicts an image of the Arsenale, the Venezianico Arsenale houses the Miyota cal. 9029. It’s essentially a two-hand version of the more widely used 9039 and has the same specs such as the 42-hour power reserve and -10/+30 seconds per day accuracy.

The Venezianico Arsenale will be available for purchase from September 26^th at a price of €800 (approx. £675). At that price its main competition is the Tissot PRX, which is also an accessible integrated bracelet sports watch. With the Powermatic 80 I think the PRX wins the technical battle but in terms of style and exclusivity, the Arsenale takes it by a landslide. As a closing thought, I think this might be the closest thing to an accessible take on the Parmigiani Tonda PF I’ve seen to date.

More details at Venezianico.

We recently talked about the Hublot Classic Fusion WOTC boutique exclusive, a cool time-and-date watch with carbon bezel. Now I’ve been able to get hands-on with a different exclusive Classic Fusion, the Essential Grey edition that’s only available online. Let’s take a closer look.

As the name Classic Fusion Essential Grey implies, this watch is monotone in colour with the light grey/silver dial matching the time of the titanium case. When I first looked at the watch I assumed it was made of steel due to the relatively light colour of the metal and the combination of brushed and polished surfaces. Titanium is a notoriously hard metal to polish well and yet the Classic Fusion Essential Grey has polished screws, a polished edge to the wide, circular bezel, polished lugs, a polished caseband and a polished crown, alternating with areas of satin brushing.

This is only possible because Hublot have used high quality grade 5 titanium. Grade 5 titanium is a bit harder than alternative titanium alloys, which means it takes a polish better. On top of that because it’s also incredibly lightweight, it’s barely noticeable on on my wrist despite measuring 42mm in diameter. Although it’s also relatively thin with a thickness of around 11mm, which is much slimmer than I would expect given the layered, somewhat industrial appearance of the case.

Focussing in on the dial, it’s very understated, something I don’t normally say about Hublot. The base is silver with sunray brushed finishing while the hour markers are polished, facetted batons, as are the hands. There’s a date aperture at 3 o’clock with black numerals on a white disk. It’s not exactly an exciting display but I also appreciate the restraint compared to some of the extravagance seen on models like the Big Bang. It fits with the idea of this being an essential model.

One of the most interesting parts of this watch is actually the strap, which is integrated into the body of the case. It’s a rubber number with a tightly woven fabric layer in its top that gives it the impression of a Milanese bracelet. It’s a really nice texture to run your fingers over. It uses a deployant buckle clasp, making it easy to adjust the size and comfortable to wear.

Once you’ve unstrapped the watch you can see that the caseback is very flat, which is a large contributing factor to the Classic Fusion Essential Grey’s overall thinness. You can also see the exhibition window through which is the calibre HUB1110 with an automatic rotor featuring a skeletonised Hublot logo. It has a combination of brushed and polished surfaces matching the rest of the watch and while it’s not the brand’s higher-end UNICO number, it still has a 42-hour power reserve.

I always enjoy getting hands-on with Hublot watches because it lets you formulate an honest opinion without the internet buzz that often follows the brand around online. I think this is a very nice watch, the monotone colour scheme works well and it has a cool sports integrated strap design that works really well at this size. My only reservation is the price, which at £7,300 is slightly above where I’d expect a grade 5 titanium time-and-date watch to sit. However, I’d also be happy to go on record saying this is one of my favourite Hublots around.

More details at Hublot.

Back in 2022 Zenith surprised us all with the launch of the Defy Skyline, a cool integrated bracelet sports watch with a four-point star motif that really made a splash. Its launch also coincided with a time when integrated bracelet sports watches were at the height of their popularity, which instantly boosted it to becoming one of the breakout stars of watchmaking that year. Building on that popularity Zenith have continued to release new editions and explore alternative iterations of the design. Which leads us to the release of the new Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition.

The Defy Skyline Chronograph was first released at Watches & Wonders earlier this year. However, we didn’t cover the story at the time because we prioritised the Defy Extreme Diver and the revival of the Defy Plongeur, which were released concurrently. That’s part of the reason I want to talk about the new boutique edition even though it’s technically just a new colourway, as it means we can finally talk about the Skyline Chronograph in general.

It measures 42mm in diameter with the signature facetted case shape of the Defy Skyline range.  The case itself is octagonal while the broad bezel that sits atop it is a dodecagon, presenting an interesting contrast in shapes, emphasised by the alternating brushed and polished surfaces that really bring out the facets. Of course, as a chronograph model the crown at 3 o’clock is now flanked by pushers, which here follow a similarly angular design and wide, flat surfaces. It feels appropriately sporty.

The dial has the signature star-field design of the standard Skyline, as opposed to the warped version found on the Tourbillon model although I do really like that variation. For the boutique edition, the base of the dial is a lovely slate grey colour while the stars, hands and hour markers are all in a rose gold tone. It makes for a striking appearance and is one of my favourite designs Zenith do (they’ve used this combination on previous boutique editions). The standard collection consists of blue, white and black dial versions.

As for the chronograph display, they’ve opted for a tricompax layout that’s closely clustered around the central hands. Packing it tightly in the centre means there’s more open dial space for the signature motif around the edges. The three subdials consist of small seconds 9 o’clock, a 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock and a 60-second counter at 3 o’clock. What makes this special is that on the majority of chronographs, the 60-second counter takes the form of the large, central chronograph hand, but here that central chronograph hand is instead a 1/10^th of a second chronograph counter, meaning it completes a rotation once every 10 seconds.

This is made possible by the El Primer 3600 automatic chronograph movement. It operates at a hi-beat frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour, which is 5Hz. On top of that, it manages to maintain a power reserve of 60-hours, which is impressive given the power intensive nature of such a high frequency and the frenetic chronograph display.

Considering how impressive the movement is, it’s no wonder that the Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition is priced at £12,100. That’s the same price as its standard edition counterparts, which makes sense because it’s functionally identical. It will just be a touch more exclusive as it’s only available from Zenith boutiques.

More details at Zenith.

Last year it felt like you could not so much as mention the watch industry without someone bringing up the Tissot PRX. That’s how thoroughly ingrained in the zeitgeist this accessible integrated bracelet sports watch was. These days it’s a little less ever present but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t crop up every now and then. Especially when Tissot release cool new editions like the PRX Powermatic 80 Gradient edition I have here for review.

Strapping on the watch with its signature single link, integrated bracelet and butterfly clasp, it feels… exactly like every other Tissot PRX. This shouldn’t come as a surprise because the case and overall design of the watch are identical to the previous editions we’ve seen over the past few years. The watch body measures 40mm in diameter and has a thickness of 10.9mm in stainless steel. It’s not overly heavy and is on the whole very comfortable – it wouldn’t have become the phenomenon it is if they messed up the basics after all.

Where the PRX Gradient really shines is the dial, which is where you’ll find the titular gradient. The edition here has a cool ice blue to dark blue colour shift on a linear axis. There’s also a black to blue version if something a bit moodier takes your fancy. However, I personally prefer the lighter tone of the pure blue gradient because it reminds me of a glacier or the frigid waters of the arctic sea – both popular inspirations in the watch world.

The dial itself consists of a tight square pattern reminiscent of that other luxury sports watch icon, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, albeit at a much finer scale. The hour markers are thin, straight batons with strips of lume, as are the hands. There’s also a date window at 3 o’clock to complete the time and date complications. It’s about as understated as it’s possible to get, which I like about the display though I have heard some opinions that it’s a touch boring. The addition of a sweeping gradient certainly helps to combat that though.

Undoing the bracelet and flipping the watch over reveals the exhibition caseback, which sits nice and flat against the wrist when worn. Through the window you can see the signature wave engraved rotor with Tissot logo of the Powermatic 80 movement. I feel like I’ve written about this movement at least 100 times at this point with its 80-hour power reserve that it achieves at the cost of a slightly lower frequency. You could be nit-picky about some of the details such as that frequency (3 Hz) and its plastic parts, but ultimately it has always been presented as an accessible option and it is genuinely great for the price.

Speaking of price, the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Gradient is £640, matching the rest of the PRX Powermatic range. I think expecting this watch to totally reshape how we view the PRX and bring the model back into the limelight that it once had is asking too much of what essentially amounts to a new colourway. At the same time the new colours are great and I’m always a fan of when brands offer customers more options. If you were on the fence about buying a PRX, maybe this is the version you were waiting for.

More details at Tissot.

While Carl Suchy & Söhne are an Austrian brand who typically find inspiration in Vienna, their latest releases are named after two of the most popular wine regions in France. They’re the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Champagne and Bordeaux. Technically they’re named after the colours which just happen to be named after the wine regions, but it’s an interesting coincidence, nonetheless.

The Belvedere collection was released in 2023 as a sporty alternative to the brand’s typical refinement and elegance. Although, despite that sporty character, it retains the characteristic alternating stripe motif that’s something of a signature. For the 2024 additions, the core structure of the Belvedere has been retained with a 40.8mm diameter in steel, broad, flat bezel and integrated strap.

As I hinted to in the introduction, it’s the colours of the dials and straps that make these watches stand out from the original editions. The first is champagne, which is a lovely off-white, cream tone that really suits the intricate design of the dial. It’s much warmer than the stark white edition which almost seems sterile in comparison.

Second is the Bordeaux, which is a rich wine-red tone. As a completely unrelated side note, this is the colour I imagine when Homer notes the ‘wine dark sea’ in the Odyssey, although I understand that that description comes more from the artefacts of translation and also archaic languages and cultures not having comparable terminology to contemporary English than it does the actual colour of the sea. Bringing us back to the watch world, the tone is reminiscent of the Fears x Christopher Ward Alliance 01 watch, which also looks great.

Powering both the Carl Suchy & Söhne Belvedere Champagne and Belvedere Bordeaux is the CSS201, an automatic movement based on a Dubois Dépraz calibre. It has a 42-hour power reserve which is the new baseline these days now that sub-40 reserves are starting to go the way of the dodo. It’s the same movement as used in the originals, which is also why the new duo have the same price at €7,900 (approx. £6,660).

More details at Carl Suchy & Söhne.

Street art is one of the most diverse and vibrant of the artistic disciplines, if you can even describe it as such. Using urban landscapes to tell stories, promote ideas and express creativity in a way that is deeply human. As a part of that, having a recognisable style helps to spread your message and create connection and one of the most instantly recognisable styles is that of Argentinian-Spanish artist Felipe Pantone, who had his start in graffiti and who has just collaborated with Zenith on the new Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone (based on the Skyline Tourbillon launched in February).

Pantone’s work is inspired by the clash between physical and digital media in the age of television and the internet. A time where a large amount of the light that our eyes receive comes from the pixels of screens rather than the natural world. As such, his art is often centred around the idea of glitches and pixels as well as the digital light spectrum that you can see reflected in the back of CDs or DVDs, or when you press on a retro computer screen too hard. All these ideas are reflected in the Defy.

Starting with the case, it’s more or less a standard edition of the Defy Skyline. It features the signature octagonal bezel that sits atop the broad, flat surfaces of the 41mm diameter steel case. The hint that this is a special edition is the engraving of FPT1 (Felipe Pantone Tourbillon #1) across the four corners of the case where the facets of the top and sides meet leading into the interchangeable steel bracelet. It’s strongly influenced by luxury sports watch design from the 1970s.

However, while the case is 70s in style, the dial is anything but. The main disk of the dial is made from sapphire that’s been micro-engraved with concentric circles. Then, the underside has been given a mirrored, metallic finish that reflects light back up through the sapphire dial, creating a prism-like quality that diffuses light in unexpected ways. You can immediately catch the connection to Pantone’s work such as the influence of CDs. It’s extraordinarily unusual and visually stunning.

Elsewhere on the dial you have the titular tourbillon located at 6 o’clock. This has been decorated with the blue-red gradient often seen in Pantone’s works and the main bridge has been shaped like a lightning bolt, also a common Pantone motif. The same is true for the central hands and hour markers around the edge of the dial, which are regular batons at the cardinal points but glitchy bolts everywhere else. It’s almost as if you’re looking at the watch on a shattered monitor.

The movement inside is the El Primero 3630, an automatic tourbillon calibre with a power reserve of 60-hours. You can view it through the exhibition caseback where the star-shaped rotor is once again dressed in the signature colour gradient. This effect is achieved through a PVD technique that Zenith and Pantone developed together in 2021 for one of their earlier collaborations.

In terms of price and availability, the Defy Skyline Tourbillon Felipe Pantone is limited to 100 pieces at a price of £56,100. It’s also presented in a custom watch box with an iridescent pattern inspired by Pantone’s style. Personally, I’m not a passionate follower of Pantone’s work so the collaboration side of this release isn’t that exciting to me. What I do like though is the way that by working with a creative, Zenith have managed to produce a dial that feel conceptually and visually unlike anything I’ve seen before. It’s modern and contemporary, which feels like a very daring thing to do when the watch market is obsessed with retro nostalgia.

More details at Zenith.

As the world and fashions change, Japanese anime and manga are charting a steady path towards the mainstream. Due in all likelihood to Studio Ghibli offering a gateway from the west to Asian styles of storytelling and animation. I must profess myself to have watched some widely acclaimed anime such as Neon Genesis Evangelion from the 90s. However, Tissot’s latest PRX launch is themed after a show from what some consider the golden era of anime, the 1970s. Specifically the new watch is the Tissot PRX 40mm UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition.

If you’re unfamiliar with UFO Robot Grendizer, the brief synopsis is that an alien prince whose homeworld has been destroyed by Vegans (the people of Planet Vega, not the plant eaters) arrives on Earth in a robot warsuit called Grendizer and proceeds to protect the planet when the Vegans come knocking here. It falls squarely into the space opera and mecha style stories that were popular in the 70s; think Mobile Suit Gundam, which came out slightly after. Coincidentally, the 70s was also the decade that the Tissot PRX made its debut, hence the collaboration here.

Getting into the specifics of the Tissot PRX 40mm UFO Robot Grendizer Special Edition, it has a very normal case by PRX standards. It measures 40mm in diameter in steel with a broadly tonneau shape, a round dial and a smooth, polished bezel. The large, flat surfaces lead into an integrated bracelet with single link construction.

Where the anime connection comes to the fore is the dial, which features a prominent image of the robot Grendizer picked out in yellow lume against a blue backdrop. Above the robot’s head, on the watch’s flange, is the inscription “UFO ロボ グレンダイザー”, the original Japanese name for the show. It makes for a pretty spectacular display in low light conditions when it looks like the character could be part of the Tron universe. Whereas in the daylight the image of Grendizer fades to the extent that you might mistake him for a random geometric pattern akin to those we’ve seen on the PRX before.

Turning the watch to the exhibition caseback shows a custom Tissot x Grendizer rotor on the Powermatic 80 calibre. You can also see an inscription celebrating the watch’s status as a special edition and the official collaboration with Go Nagai, the manga artist and author who created the original stories.

Regarding the collaboration Go Nagai stated, “It’s fascinating that UFO Robot Grendizer and the Tissot PRX both started in 70s. They come from different worlds, but the collaboration brought out a special meaning.” He elaborated on the collaboration’s significance, adding, “By merging UFO Robot Grendizer’s fight for a better future with the PRX’s journey of marking life’s milestones, we’ve crafted a watch that is a true tribute to their legacy and heritage.”

The watch is presented in a custom watch box shaped like Spazer, Grendizer’s UFO, the device he uses to fly across the Earth and in space. It’s a fun addition that helps the watch feel like a proper collector’s edition. It’s priced at £785 and is available from the Tissot online store and at their Covent Garden boutique in London.

More details at Tissot.

Louis Cartel Charlemagne II Titanium Black

Europe has one of the most diverse and competitive microbrand and independent watch design scenes in the world. Making a name for yourself is no easy feat. However, despite facing many challenges, Louis Cartel have risen as one of the fastest growing European watch brands in the last two years, founded in Paris in 2022. Following sell-out first and second collections they’re back with their latest offerings in updated colours and styles.

One of the stand-out watches from Louis Cartel’s early collections was the Charlemagne I, which became the brand’s signature model. So, it’s no surprise to see a follow-up in the form of the Charlemagne II. It’s a tonneau timepiece that measures 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 15mm, giving it the same bold and urban aesthetic favoured by hyper luxury brands like Bianchet and Richard Mille at a drastically more accessible price point.

Louis Cartel Charlemagne II Rose Gold

Its steel case is available in a handful of coloured coatings including rose gold and titanium black. Compared to the Charlemagne I, the biggest visual update comes on the dial. It’s still modern and openworked but the Charlemagne II has big Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock. As a result, the level of openworking is much more intricate and architectural, revealing the Miyota 8N24 with 42-hour power reserve housed inside.

Louis Cartel Suvari Forest Green/Navy

Second in the new collection is a new edition of the Suvari. It’s a quartz timepiece that pays tribute to the legendary works of designers like Gerald Genta. A broad octagonal bezel sits atop a 41mm steel case with integrated steel bracelet. The new selection introduces forest green and navy blue dials, which are much more intense and vibrant than the original ice blue, black, gold and olive green versions.

Louis Cartel Tinera De Louis Cartel Midnight

Last up is a quartet of new Tinera De Louis Cartel references. Similar to the Suvari, these are integrated bracelet sports watches with quartz movements. The shape though is a cushion case design instead of an octagon and it’s also much wider at a diameter of 43mm. As for colour, there’s a blue, red and black, called the CEO, Cherry and Midnight respectively. The fourth watch in the collection is called Royal Blue with a blue dial and rose gold PVD case.

With such confident style available for £196-£247 depending on the model, it’s little surprise that Louis Cartel rank in the top 10 fastest-growing watch brands in Europe. The Charlemagne II in particular shows great promise in terms of being an accessible mechanical timepiece with room to help Louis Cartel develop their individual style further, something which is important for all young brands finding their place in the industry.

More details at Louis Cartel.

What is the most influential watch model introduced in this decade? By which I mean a family or sub-family of watches that did not exist prior to 2020 but that has become an industry and collector staple. There are two that come to mind. First is the Rolex 1908 because how can it not be. Second is the Zenith Defy Skyline, a sub-collection of the Defy range that helped to define the integrated bracelet sports watch trend of 2020-2023. I got hands-on with the new Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic learn more about where the series is heading.

Strapping on the white ceramic watch it’s impossible not to be drawn to talk about the material first. The irregular octagonal case, the dodecagon bezel and H-link bracelet are all made from ceramic with a brushed surface in pristine white – as bold and brash as they come. The watch body has some weight to it, the bracelet feels very light which leads to some complaints that the watch feels too much like a toy. However, as someone who owned a white plastic Swatch with a union jack dial when I was 11 because I thought it was cool (forgive me), I can tell you that this is a very different beast.

Measuring 41mm in diameter with a height of roughly 13mm, it’s large without being unwieldy. The flat, facetted surfaces make it feel broad, as does the oversize crown that hints at Zenith’s aviation roots. On the wrist it has undeniable presence but at the same time it’s not particularly difficult to slip under a cuff if needed. Plus, the ceramic and sapphire caseback is completely flat, making it smooth against the skin and very comfortable.

Focussing in on the dial, it’s as bold as the case its housed in. A blue open-worked number skeletonised into the shape of a four-point star. I’ve seen a lot of Skyline Skeletons online but this is my first time seeing one in the metal and I have to say, it’s a lot cooler in person. Online images really do not do justice to the depth and layering of the mechanisms on display. Plus, the blue colour really responds well to different lighting conditions, ranging from almost black to bright sapphire blue.

However, the highlight of the display is the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. It’s a 1/10^th of a second indicator, meaning that the hand rotates once every 10 seconds as opposed to once every 60, giving it a dynamic and energetic appearance. It’s powered by the calibre El Primero 3620 SK, which is the first movement in the world with a 1/10^th running seconds display. It also operates at a high 5 Hz frequency with a power reserve of 55-hours.

Is the Zenith Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic a watch for everyone? Definitely not. The bold aesthetic is definitely an acquired taste and it will only suit people with the charisma and character to pull it off. Plus, the £15,800 price tag is quite a significant barrier to entry. However, I’d also say that this is not a watch to dismiss outright at first glance, spending time with it really reveals that it’s quite a stunner.

More details at Zenith.

There’s nothing that feels quite so British as having an ice cream in a seaside town while dodging all the seagulls. Or having an ice cream in the rain depending on the weather – nothing will stop our enjoyment of a 99 Flake. Christopher Ward’s latest additions to The Twelve line are dedicated to these sweet dairy treats with their colourful dials, while also introducing a new case size: the Christopher Ward The Twelve 38mm Ice Cream Collection.

Let’s start with the steel case because while the Ice Cream collection has the same shape as the 40mm and 36mm variants (integrated bracelet design with dodecagon bezel), it’s presented at a diameter of 38mm. I really like that Christopher Ward have split the difference between the two previous size offerings. Given the current interest of collectors in sub-40mm sizes, it makes sense to have a smaller edition of The Twelve but the 36mm arguably pushed it too far. Now we have a nice middle ground – quite literally the Goldilocks zone.

Looking at the dials, we see that there are four colours to choose from, each with an ice cream x wristwatch related pun for a name. They are: Biel-Berry, Mint 38, Made in Mangohead, and Peach Sellita, which translates to blue, green, yellow and red. They’re some of the strongest, most saturated colours in The Twelve range, as the majority of the existing references are either pastel or fumé. As a note, both the Mango and Peach versions are definitely not pure yellow or red as there’s a hint of orange in both that means they better match the fruit they’re named after.

Beneath the fruity surface of the Christopher Ward The Twelve 38mm Ice Cream Collection is housed the Sellita SW200-1 automatic calibre. A staple work horse movement but one that’s showing its age a little with only a 38-hour power reserve. It would be nice to see CW upgrade to the newer Sellita movements with improved power reserves.

Each of the four flavours is limited to 200 pieces each and comes with both a steel bracelet and alternative coloured rubber strap. They’re priced at £1,095, offering that classic Christopher Ward value. Personally, I hope to see the 38mm sizing make its way to the standard collection in time as I think it suits The Twelve well and the vibrant colours work well too. Fun and flavourful for summer.

More details at Christopher Ward.

When thinking of Bell & Ross, the first thing that comes to mind are big, bold instrument watches inspired by the cockpits of planes and vehicles. Although shortly after that comes modern/futuristic artistic expression through their Cyber range. What they doesn’t come to mind is 1920s golden era Art Deco design – until now and the launch of the BR 05 Artline Steel & Gold.

The new watch features a 40mm diameter case in a rounded square shape made from steel with an integrated bracelet. Adding a decorative quality to the piece are the rose gold accents across the bezel and bracelet links, which feature vertical engraved lines. The combination of gold and geometric shapes instantly conjures images of Gatsby-style parties and luxurious American Art Deco design.

Indeed, a key influence behind the watch is the Steamline movement, a style of design seen on American trains and which also finds itself expressed in horology through the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner. For the Bell & Ross it suits the broad, curved surfaces of the BR 05, which is a model we typically associate with sports watches of the 70s.

Rounding out the Bell & Ross BR 05 Artline Steel & Gold is a rich brown dial with sunray brushed finishing. Flipping the watch over reveals an exhibition caseback that shows the calibre BR-CAL.321-1, based on the Sellita SW300-1. It features a 54-hour power reserve and gets a thumbs up from us as B&R have historically been criticised for their low power reserves and this is a step in the right direction.

Ultimately, this watch feels substantially different to the usual Bell & Ross design style, despite maintaining all the elements we are familiar with. For a brand that could easily peg themselves into a corner by becoming too focussed on the niche idea of instrument watches, spreading out makes sense. It’s priced at £11,100 and limited to 99 pieces.

More details at Bell & Ross.

It’s spring, which means you need to be prepared for blessed sunshine and torrential rain at a moment’s notice – I certainly know which of those conditions I prefer and so does Girard-Perregaux. Their latest pair of Laureato releases are bright and breezy, perfect for capturing the golden vibes of the sun breaking through the clouds. They’re the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Sage Green and Ultramarine Blue.

The names of the two watches tell you pretty much everything you need to know about them. They have 42mm pink gold cases in the signature shape of the Laureato, meaning they have round cases with integrated bracelets topped with an octagonal bezel. The pink gold gives them a rich rosy colour that matches the golden skyline of a late spring sunset. I like that they’re 42mm and haven’t kowtowed to the current popularity of smaller dimensions – the Laureato has historically been a sports-chic timepiece and a size of 42mm maintains that sporty aspect in juxtaposition to the luxurious gold.

It’s a style the evidently works because in the Oracle Time Awards 2023 as voted for by you, the Oracle Time readers, the Laureato was a runner-up in both the integrated bracelet and readers’ choice watch of the year categories. That version was s copper dial edition and the new watches feel like a twist on that formula. Instead of having a yellow-ish metallic tone dial, they have golden cases, allowing the dial to making way for alternative sunny colours.

The first of those colours is sage green, a colour that has been seeing more and more use across a number of watch brands. It’s a desaturated green that is gentle and calming, like sage the plant and like a sage bringing wisdom. The second is ultramarine blue, which in contrast to the pale sage is vibrant and intense. Its that vibrancy that creates a bright and cheerful feeling like the coming summer. There’s also the act that the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Ultramarine Blue edition is also presented on a choice of gold bracelet or blue alligator strap while the green is only available on bracelet.

Beneath their spring and summer ready surfaces, both watches house the GP01800-2317 automatic movement. It’s a really solid in-house number with a 54-hour power reserve and 4Hz frequency. You can view it through the exhibition caseback to admire the pink gold rotor and Côte de Genève finishing.

As full gold watches, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Pink Gold Sage Green and Ultramarine Blue on bracelet are priced at £44,100 while the alligator strap edition of the Ultramarine Blue is £30,100. I wouldn’t say that these watches are ultra-hype mega releases but also, I’ve learned not to underestimate the power of the Laureato in attractive colours. Could these be the ultimate spring and summer watches?

More details at Girard-Perregaux.

Of all the brands I expected to create an answer to the Tissot PRX, Ball was not high on my list. In fact, they weren’t on the list whatsoever. Ball is a watch brand known for their rugged divers, bold chronographs and their heritage connection to the American railroad – not 70s inspired sports chic. However, surprising us all, here we have it, the Ball Roadmaster M Perseverer.

The comparison to the Tissot PRX is unavoidable. The Ball Roadmaster M Perseverer is the same size at a 40mm diameter and is even a similar thickness at 12mm with a flat tonneau case leading into an integrated bracelet. There’s also a larger edition at 43mm. However, there are some significant differences such as the fact that the Ball is made from 904L stainless steel as opposed to 316L, meaning the Ball is markedly more corrosion resistant. Although in the daily life of an integrated bracelet watch, I’m not sure how much that really matters. Still, it’s a nice indication that Ball are maintaining their high-performance identity even if the aesthetic is quite different.

As for the dial, the horizontal engraved lines are only missing their vertical counterparts to match the waffle dial of the PRX. There are three colours available, black, navy blue and ice blue, all of which suit the design well. I imagine the ice blue will be the most popular, the red tip of the uniquely shaped seconds hand standing out against the backdrop. Speaking of colours, there’s also the vibrant micro gas tubes that take the place of lumed indexes, shining brightly in green and yellow in low light conditions. One consequence of the modern display and dial design is that the cursive typography Ball uses feels out of place, too elegant and classical.

Beneath the dial, the Roadmaster M Perseverer houses the manufacture BALL RR7309-C, an automatic COSC chronometer movement. Importantly it has an accuracy of +2/-4 seconds per day, meaning it adheres to the standards of railway timepiece accuracy, a nod to their heritage. On top of that it’s shock resistant to 5,000Gs and anti-magnetic to 4,800A/m, another example of Ball keeping the adventure-ready specs on hand even for a daily wearer.

In terms of price and availability, both the 40mm and 43mm versions of the Ball Roadmaster M Perseverer are £1,610 at pre-order or £2,150 at full price. Additionally, each size is limited to 1,000 pieces. Going toe-to-toe with the PRX is a very difficult challenge because of the sheer value of that timepiece, but I think the Ball gives it a good go. It’s more exclusive, giving it more appeal to dedicated collectors and it also fits into its own niche thanks to the focus on higher performance materials and that typical Ball ruggedness.

More details at Ball Watch.

Back in 2022 Tissot’s PRX was in the cultural ascendancy. It was a time when integrated bracelet sports watches were incredibly popular and the PRX’s late 70s aesthetic and accessible price created the perfect storm to generate hype. One of the coolest editions released was the mint green, although it was arguably held back from by the fact that it was powered by a quartz movement when collectors could buy an automatic of a different colour for not all that much more money. However, a few weeks ago Tissot quietly launched a PRX Powermatic 80 mint green, which I’ve had on the wrist for a couple of days.

Let’s talk about the colour first, as that’s really all that’s new here. It’s quite a chameleonic shade of green that, at least to my eyes, can appear strikingly different depending on the lighting conditions. Under the artificial lights of the Oracle Time office it has quite a pale tone that is unquestionably mint. However, out in the sunshine it appears more saturated and almost teal or perhaps more precisely, aquamarine.

What I think causes this is not actually the shade of the dial but rather the visual context that it’s being seen in. Outside, it competes with the natural greens of the grass and leaves whereas inside, it doesn’t. It’s the mint green of toothpaste rather than, well, mint. I accept that is not a particularly flattering description so it’s important to state that I actually quite like the colour. It’s more interesting than the white and black editions that feel overly formal and it’s also a departure from ice blue, which I’ve seen far too much in watches lately.

The version I’ve been wearing is the 40mm edition in steel, although it’s also available at the petite size of 35mm. It wears very comfortably, the integrated bracelet keeping it nicely in place and creating a continuous arc through the body of the case around the wrist. My main issue with its position on the wrist is the fact that the exhibition caseback is quite thick, protruding at least 2-3mm from the back of the case. Which means the main case doesn’t sit flat against the wrist – particularly noticeable because the case itself is completely flat.

Inside is the Powermatic 80 movement, an automatic calibre used by several brands in the Swatch group. With its 80-hour power reserve, it’s one of the best value-for-money mechanical movements in the entire industry. It’s not the most spectacular movement to look at through the exhibition caseback but it’s nice enough with Tissot’s wavy rotor. That value comes out to £640 for the Tissot PRX Automatic Mint Green at either 35mm or 40mm.

If you’re looking for an accessible watch for the summer, this is a really solid option. It has a fun dial, its comfortable and the movement is great. And it’s not much deeper than that – not an earthshaking or genre re-defining launch, just a nice addition to the range for anyone who likes light green. Sometimes, that’s all you need.

More details at Tissot.

As we discussed in our coverage of the new Nautilus 5980, a handful of Patek Philippe’s releases this year feature a lovely shade of grey-blue. One of those watches is the Aquanaut Travel Time ref. 5164G which is presented in white gold for the first time. A nice and bright interpretation of the world-trotting watch compared the dark brown and rose gold editions that have come before.

As the case has been rendered in white gold for the first time, let’s start there. It measures 40.8mm in diameter with the classic porthole shape it shares with the Nautilus. Although its profile is a little less severe due to having more traditionally shaped lugs even though the composite strap is still integrated and smaller crown guards. The white gold provides a bright silver colour and high lustre that’s very attractive. Completing the design of the case are two pushers built into the left-hand side that control the travel time complication.

By pushing one of the buttons you can advance the local time hour hand forward by an hour and by pushing the other, it moves back an hour. Allowing you to quickly adjust the watch to your new time zone without losing any accuracy or fiddling with the setting of the second time zone. If you’re unfamiliar with Patek’s travel time watches, they operate in a similar manner to a GMT in that they display multiple time zones at the same time.

However, instead of having a separate 24-hour hand with corresponding scale, they use two hour hands (one solid for local time and one skeletonised for the secondary time) that correlate to the main 12-hour scale. A pair of home and away day/night indicators then serves to inform you which part of the 24-hour cycle is being displayed. It’s a lot more subtle than a GMT display because when you don’t require the use of an additional time zone, you can hide the second hour hand beneath the primary one.

Completing the display is the date subdial at 6 o’clock featuring a smaller version of the globe-like engraving seen across the rest of the dial. I’m not a huge fan of the pattern compared to the horizontal grooves of the Nautilus. It reminds me too much of the Pan Am logo to be cool. Although considering it’s a travel complication, perhaps that is appropriate.

The movement powering the Travel Time Ref. 5164G White Gold is the calibre 26‑330 S C FUS. A 45-hour power reserve movement that features the titular travel time complication and date. Interestingly the date is coupled with the local time display meaning that when you jump the hour hand across the boundary of a day, the date will change correspondingly. You can see the movement through the exhibition caseback with its Côtes de Genève finishing and golden rotor.

With the precious metal case, it’s no surprise that the watch is priced at £54,000. Ultimately this is a case and dial colour update for an existing model so it’s not the craziest release in the world. In fact, a lot of internet chatter has been in regard to the fact that Patek’s release slate isn’t all that impressive this year. I definitely feel like they could have pushed their designs further but at the same time, I do like the understated style of the blue-grey watches.

More details at Patek Philippe.

Back in the heady days of 2021 and 2022 Parmigiani effectively relaunched themselves as a brand with the creation of the Tonda PF. A watch that revitalised interest in the brand and brought a new, modern aesthetic to their collections. Now, Parmigiani are pushing the design to fresh heights, not by adding more complications or crazy new designs, but by stripping all of that away to the barest essentials on both the dial and movement to create the most minimalist version yet. Meet the Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date.

As a time-only watch with only hours, minutes and seconds in its display, every small aspect of the watch is put under the microscope. There’s no hiding behind the haute horological prowess of an eye-catching tourbillon or the prestige of a perpetual calendar. Every line of the 40mm stainless steel case and platinum knurled bezel has to be absolutely pristine. The arc of the round case, the sweeping lugs and integrated bracelet all have to be finished to an immaculate standard with a combination of polishing and brushing.

Under equal scrutiny is the dial, which is of course dateless with only the skeletonised hour and minute hands as any form of timekeeping. Date vs no date is often a debate among collectors but here no date makes a lot of sense, why would you want such a stunning dial to be interrupted? It features the brand’s signature Grain d’Orge guilloché which consists of incredibly fine vertical waves interspersed with pointed petal shapes. It creates a mesmerising display that warrants close observation of every detail. It also has a layered appearance thanks to the raised hour markers and recessed peripheral minute scale. The colour is called Golden Siena, a rich yellow gold tone that has the same feeling of warmth to it as a sepia photograph.

The same exacting level of attention has been paid to the Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date’s movement as well, which is visible through the exhibition caseback. It’s worth noting that there was previously a no date model with a full rotor, but this is the first time that display has been paired with a micro-rotor movement, allowing you to admire the finishing to its fullest on both the dial and movement side of the watch. The main plate features the clean lines of Côtes de Genève finishing and the titular micro-rotor has a radial interpretation of Grain d’Orge. The movement is called the PF703 and has a 48-hour power reserve and operates at a 3Hz frequency.

It’s priced at £23,220, which is exactly the same as the standard Tonda PF Micro-Rotor with date. It’s a price that reflects the high level of skill and finishing involved in the watch while also being notably lower than Parmigiani’s many high complications and precious metal offerings. I would go so far as to say that this is one of my favourite Tonda PFs to date, despite (or perhaps because of) being the most pared back and restrained. The gold of the dial adds some much needed brightness to the range which is full of greys and blues.

More details at Parmigiani.

There have been many famous British watchmakers through history and their influence can still be felt in the industry today. One such watchmaker is John Arnold, the name behind the haute horology brand Arnold & Son. These days Arnold & Son operate as a Swiss brand producing incredible works of fine horology such as the Year of the Dragon Luna Magna. However, as of today they are stepping into the integrated sports watch game with the launch of the Arnold & Son Longitude Titanium.

Off the bat, seeing an Arnold & Son integrated sports watch feels pretty weird. I’m so used to seeing precious metal dress watches, high complications and skeletonised timepieces that a 42.5mm titanium watch stands out like a sore thumb. Although it isn’t itself a sore thumb because I actually quite like the design. It has round, curving sides that are then angled across the horizontal axis between the bezel and lugs to give the piece a quasi-cushion case appearance. It’s then finished with vertical brushing.

It sits comfortably within the archetype of integrated sports watches without being a direct homage to iconic watches like the Nautilus or Royal Oak. The completely round bezel with pronounced grip plays a large role in keeping the watch distinct from its cohort, the majority of which are obsessed with polygon bezels of varying numbers of sides. Although one aspect the Longitude Titanium does share with many other integrated watches is the H-link bracelet, a very popular design.

Moving to the dial, it’s very restrained by Arnold & Son standards. Wide bar indexes, partially skeletonised hands coated with lume, a snailed small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a minimalist power reserve indicator at 12. There are three colours to choose from starting with Ocean Blue, then Fern Green featuring rose gold coloured accents and lastly the limited edition Kingsand Gold with blue accents. Of the trio, I think the Fern Green is my personal favourite because there’s a gentleness to the colour that’s very soothing to look at.

Beneath the dial is housed a new movement, the A&S6302 automatic movement with COSC chronometer certification and a 60-hour power reserve. The chronometer certification is actually very important to the watch’s identity because while the Longitude Titanium is a new type of watch from Arnold & Son, it’s not the first watch they’ve produced with the name Longitude. That’s because John Arnold was famous for producing marine chronometers that won awards from the Bureau des Longitudes and so chronometer status and the name Longitude have gone hand in hand since the 18^th century.

Earlier in this article I was discussing the watch’s similarities and differences to other luxury integrated sports watches. Well, you can add ‘price’ to the list of similarities. The 88-piece limited edition Kingsand Gold is CHF 22,600 and the two non-limited versions are CHF 21,500 (approx. £19,820/£18,850). No one expected an Arnold & Son integrated sports watch and the results are pleasantly surprising.

More details at Arnold & Son.