While I tend to think of Japanese horology in terms of brands like Grand Seiko and Hajime Asaoka that bring high end mechanics and traditional techniques to watchmaking, it’s undeniable that the accessible brands from Japan are also killing it. Orient’s Bambino is fantastic for the price and Citizen is a true power house with their diverse and extensive range of watches. Citizen is extra relevant right now because it’s the 100th anniversary of the first ever Citizen branded watch, an event they are celebrating with the launch of the Series 8 880 Limited Edition.
Off the bat, this is a really fun watch. It has an integrated bracelet design with the sporty look of a watch inspired by the 1970s. What gives it a unique character is the coloured plating on top of the 41mm steel case, which gives it a bi-colour appearance in anthracite grey and deep blue. The same colouration is used across the links of the steel bracelet, creating a cohesive look for the piece.
The dark tones of the case mirror the colours of the bi-directional rotating GMT bezel, which is split into blue and black day/night sections. Interestingly the 24-hour scale on the bezel has a 24 numeral, whereas it’s very common for a rotating scale to have a lumed dot or other marker in that position so that the bezel can be set even in low light conditions. I actually prefer the look of the complete numerical scale though as it has a hint of that Rolex Explorer II vibe while still having the additional practicality that comes from a rotation.
Where the 100th Anniversary Series 8 880 Limited Edition really comes into its own is the dial. It has a cool undulating colour gradient that seems to shift and change across the span of the display rather than having a consistent linear change or fumé design as we normally see. This has been achieved by using mother-of-pearl tinted blue. Once you know that, it almost feels like you can see the iridescence of the material through the blue. It’s also just the right amount of intensity to pair well with the colours of the case.
As part of the 880 Mechanical series, it’s powered by an automatic movement. Specifically, the Cal. 9054 with 50-hour power reserve, an accuracy of +20/-10 seconds per day and a frequency of 4 Hz. It’s a solid enough movement of the calibre (pardon the pun) you’d expect to see from Citizen. You can view it through the exhibition caseback too. In terms of functions, it’s equipped with hours, minutes, seconds, date and a true GMT function. A true GMT allows you to adjust the hour hand by intervals of one hour without affecting the GMT hand.
I really like the use of colour on the the Citizen Series 8 880 Limited Edition because it feels special enough to warrant being a limited edition while also not being so extravagant that the watch loses its practical, almost tool watch-esque appeal. I get the same feeling from the £1,495 price tag, which is at the top end of what is generally considered daily beater/tool watch territory. It’s also limited to 2,200 pieces globally making it fairly exclusive compared to Citizen’s standard models.
Price and Specs:
More details at Citizen.
