Germany in the mid-20th century was quite a turbulent place, if that isn’t too much of an understatement. World War II and its fallout had lasting impacts on every industry including watchmaking. Watch brands in East Germany had to contend with the issues of Nationalisation under first the Nazis and then later the Soviets. Meanwhile conditions in West Germany during the 1950s were dramatically different as the nation tried to get back on its feet and distance itself from the preceding decades. It was this period that inspires the new Junghans Meister Pilot Chronoscope grey and green.
When I say the new watches are inspired by 1950s West Germany, I specifically mean that they’re based on a heritage Junghans watch produced in that decade, in Schramberg. Known these days as the Bundeswehr Chronograph, the original was produced for the newly formed West German Bundeswehr – the present-day German army and military corps. It was a quintessential military pilot’s chronograph and that legacy can be seen throughout the modern Meister Pilot Chronoscope.
The new Pilot Chronoscope next to its historical role model
The watch measures 43.3mm in diameter in stainless steel with a thickness of 14.4mm, meaning it’s a very large watch. While the prevailing zeitgeist favours smaller dimensions, historically pilot (and dive) watches were larger in order to accommodate wide displays that are easy to read at a glance. When executing precise aerial manoeuvres, you can’t afford to mistime anything.
One of the major details that harks back to the Bundeswehr Chronograph is the characteristic bezel. It features 12 prominent points connected by wide arcs, offering excellent grip and ease of use. It’s bi-directional and features a 60-minute scale, allowing you to make note of a specific timing landmark ensuring accurate navigation.
Notably, the new Ref. 27/3493.00’s whole case, bezel and chronograph pushers have been given a high polish sheen. This is pretty unusual for a tool watch as typically they have satin brushed finishes in order to hide scratches better. However, there is historical precedent for polished pilot’s watches because Junghans produced a series of them for the army in the 1950s with the designation 112 – though admittedly they were used predominantly on the ground rather than in the air. Seeing the polished finish here makes for a super versatile watch.
The Ref. 27/3493.00 pairs its polished case with a matte grey lacquer dial and beige Arabic numerals. The bicompax chronograph counters are then stark white and black for added legibility. In contrast Ref. 27/3492.00 does have a satin brushed bezel and case in the more traditional style and that’s paired with a forest green dial and inverted accents (white numerals and beige subdial hands). Both versions also feature the historic Junghans logo as an extra nod to the heritage model.
Powering both versions of the watch is the calibre J880.3, an automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve. It’s a venerable movement at this point with wide usage since 2015, almost a decade ago. Not that that’s old by watchmaking standards, especially when we’re talking about design influences from the 1950s.
In terms of price, the green dialled Ref. 27/3492.00 is £2,490 while the additional polished finish on the 27/3493.00 means it’s £2,590. Initially that seems like quite a lot but then I think about the Breguet Type 20 and XX releases from 2023, which have similar aesthetics to the Junghans, and those watches are five figures. Admittedly the mechanics are on a different level, but it helps provide a little perspective.
Price and Specs:
More details at Junghans.
