The Biver Automatique is the Ultimate Grail Watch of 2024

Jean-Claude Biver is undoubtedly an icon among watch enthusiasts and industry stalwarts. And it seems it is a laurel wreath that he is uncomfortable resting on. JC is still energized at 74, and along with the late Nicholas Hayek credited for turning around the Swiss watch industry. In fact Oracle Time might not be here if it wasn’t for his judicious moves in the nineties. But with widespread success comes jealousy.

Cue March last year when fast-talking Jean-Claude dropped his own-brand bombshell, Biver Watches. At the launch my image was one of JC and his son Pierre tiptoeing through a minefield of skeptic opinions. Every media personality wanted a say on the surprisingly modern Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater. In fact, many voices were very critical of the too-modern design, with a price tag starting at CHF 520,000. A value befitting its complex, hand-finished nature. Interestingly most changed their minds when handling the actual watch, a debut that set the brand standard sky high for the next reveal – which I got hands-on with at Geneva Watch Days.

As promised at the launch, Biver and Son are back with the same modern case design. This time, it is reduced from 42mm to 39mm. All the previous and rather modern details are still around, but they are surprisingly understated here. Plus, the Biver airship has descended from above the clouds and flies at a much lower altitude in terms of price. Mind you, after a £500K debut, no watch bearing the capitalised Biver logo could possibly be a daily driver, or could it?

My eyes are widening as I write this because of how ridiculous it sounds, but the three-hand Biver Automatique with its CHF 75,000 starting price has all the ergonomic qualities of a daily fave. I have worn all four versions, and casting aside my own budget restraints, I was smitten. Viewing the Biver Automatique at its own merit, it is an eminently readable, exceptionally finished watch with the best lugs in the business and an exceptional movement.

During my meeting with the brand, I shared a few words with Pierre Biver and what became very clear was his passion. JC has obviously passed on his passion for detail, and Piere has a keen eye for modernity. This becomes abundantly apparent when wearing and examining the circular case with its strong brushed side section. And I’m all about those lugs, quite possibly the sharpest detail on the accomplished 39mm case.

The new Biver Automatique has the same DNA as the high-shooting first release, with soldered lugs. With a gentle curve where they connect with the case it makes the details stand out even more, and their angular drama frames a soft and rounded bezel. The platinum and rose gold versions with precious metal dials offer the cleanest design of the quartet, a relief railroad minute track encircling a vibrant dial with circular-and vertical brushed finishes. To add contrast, all indices and hands are in white gold, but finished with a dark anrthacite colour.

Bold indices traverse the two middle rings of the rose or white gold dial surfaces, with razor sharp dauphine hands to match. The Biver Automatique is a no-date design and the quadrant indices echo the angular drama of the lugs design to great effect. On-wrist I would say that the full rose gold version does dazzle in indoor lighting, making the flamboyant stealth wealth of the platinum version more legible. But viewing both in the warm Genevan sun the rich glimmer of 18K rose gold takes some beating.

Soft, matte leather straps come with the immaculate fit of a matching big-logo buckle, and I am a big fan of the alligator versions for the two Atelier editions. The twin precious metal versions are the regular production models, while the rose gold and platinum Atelier series have stone dials. These will be released in minimal editions each year, and with different semi-precious stone dials.

To maximise the impact of the stone dials, the two Atelier versions of the Automatique come on matte-finished alligator straps. However, precious metal bracelets will also be available for both these and the regular models. As with the standard models, the platinum case is the understated one. But with a matte, brushed obsidian dial that gives it a melancholy charm. The pietersite stone in the rose gold version is like capturing a thunderous night sky or a dark subsea current. It might seem overpowering in the images, but on the wrist, it was spectacular. And in a mid-sized 39mm watch, it offers a massive wrist presence. Sure, the price for this limited piece of stone art-imbued wristwear is considerable. It retails for CHF 89,000 and CHF 108,000 on the upcoming bracelet, but it might just be worth it if you ask me.

Within all four new Bivers, you will find an equal artisanal flourish under the rear sapphire crystal. The JCB-003 movement with its solid 22k gold micro-rotor was developed in close collaboration with Dubois Depraz and considered a base for future releases. Sharp inner angles of hand-finished anglage abound, and the bridges are carefully sculpted. Hand-finished cut-back bridgework reveals elements of the drive train, barrel, and winding system. It is an enigmatic combination of guilloché, anglage and black polishing, giving it character. I especially enjoy the Clous de Paris guilloché patterns that adorn the bridges while adding sculptural drama. I am also drawn in by more guilloché flourish swirling out from the centre of the micro-rotor, making the JCB-003 a visual high point. The 36-jewel movement boasts a 25,200vph running frequency and a solid 65-hours of power reserve.

In hand and on my wrist, I would be hard-pressed to pick a favourite. I was seriously smitten by the smooth charm of the platinum version with its vibrantly brushed white gold dial. It is also very hard to look away from the full-on cinematic experience of the Atelier Collection. Especially the rose gold with its hypnotizing pietersite stone. I am left with a different and more understated image of the brand than at last year’s launch. In my chat with Pierre Biver, while wearing the Automatique, my lasting impression is nuanced. As a person, Pierre emanates a curated, studied passion and it is this passion that is deeply reflected in this dazzling quartet.

Learn more at Biver.