It’s difficult to know where Gucci stand on the world watchmaking stage these days. On the one hand they produce some really cool mechanical watch including a minute repeater and on the other hand, they still produce fashion watches that are intentionally focussed on style over substance. However, I think what proves to me that Gucci are genuinely invested in increasing their horological prowess is their recent focus on mid-range watches. By which I mean practical tool watches like the Gucci Dive and now the new Gucci Interlocking sports collection.
There are seven watches in the Interlocking collection, two ladies’ watches in quartz, three quartz chronographs and two men’s watches with automatic movements. Of all these watches, the automatics are the most prestigious in a watch collecting sense and so we shall narrow in on those models specifically. They are refs YA142330 and YA142331.
Both measure 41mm in diameter and are made from steel with PVD coatings in either black or blue. Structurally, the cases are cushion shaped with broad, flat surfaces atop which sits a circular bezel with brushed finishing. The compressed cushion shape and the wide bezel call to mind the influences of 1970s integrated bracelet sports watch design. Although it’s perhaps not as explicit as many other watches that pay tribute to this period of design and importantly the Gucci Interlocking does not have an integrated bracelet.
The name Interlocking comes from the watch’s dial. At 6 o’clock is a small seconds subdial but rather than the normal seconds hand, the entire disk rotates and is emblazoned with the Gucci interlocking double G logo. In fact it makes me want to call the collection the Gucci Interlocking G as personally I feel that “Interlocking” on its own doesn’t really convey what this watch is about. An arrow at the bottom of the Gs serves as the seconds indicator. Beyond that it’s a very clean, sporty dial.
The central portion has circular brushing in either black or blue depend on which model you have – the blue edition is further embellished by red accents. Then surrounding that is a sector hour scale with bar indexes at the cardinal points and Arabic numerals depicting the minutes in between.
Powering the Gucci Interlocking automatic is the Sellita SW360, a perfectly reasonable work horse movement with a 56-hour power reserve. It’s visible through the exhibition caseback and is protected by the case’s 100m water resistance rating. It’s not as crazy or exciting as the 25H collection by a long shot but it’s solidly respectable in watch collecting circles. And that’s what Gucci needs in order to grow.
They want to be in the conversation alongside brands like Oris, high-end Seiko, Farer and so on to build a reputation as a brand for dedicated watch collectors. Creating practical watches that are actually attainable is the right way to do that. At a price of £2,200 it’s certainly not a watch you can buy without thinking but that’s also the right value range for what’s on offer. Style-wise I also think this is one of the most restrained pieces Gucci have produced, following in the footsteps of highly regarded wristwatch design from the late 20th century.
Price and Specs:
More details at Gucci.
