Image credit: Analog:Shift
The uptick in brand recognition lately for Cartier is palpable. Post-peak sports watch hype, the Parisian jeweller’s creations have become mascots for the small and dressy trend that has entered the spotlight over the past four years. So much so that the idea of turning towards La Maison for something unsung feels like going to Lamborgini for something subtle. With more than a century of expressive watchmaking and design to their name, one may assume that all stones have been overturned.
But that’s not entirely true. Cartier’s creativity remained steadfast during the 20th century, with captivating and sophisticated timepieces crafted in design-conscious forms decade after decade. In fact, the most favoured models today have origins over 100 years ago, and visually, they have mostly stayed the same. As a result, some, like the Tank Obus, have stayed undetected from the wider population’s attention.
Cartier Tank Obus circa. 1920s, image credit: Collector Square
Based upon arguably one of the only watches that truthfully deserves the designation of ‘icon’, the Cartier Obus was first conceived in 1923 and offered an extra dose of creative flair compared to the original Tank Louis that came out six years prior. Obus, which translates to ‘shell’ or “artillery shell’, refers to the cylindrical shape of its lugs. Archetypal dial design cues such as large Roman numerals, a chemin de fer track, blued hands, and a cabochon-tipped crown are present but gone are the rounded brancards that effortlessly blend into the lugs, and in are sets of bullet-shaped lugs and a beautifully square case.
“Cartier is well known for rectangular and more elongated watches, but the Obus being square makes it unique,” says Alex Stevens, a London-based watch dealer and curated of Alex Stevens Vintage with a wealth of first-hand experience of numerous decades of Cartier watchmaking. “Often, people new to Cartier default to the Louis, even if that’s through the new Must line, as its shape and dimensions are prominent in popular culture. But some of those people could easily prefer an Obus but have just never seen one. As a result, the Obus remains overlooked; I think people don’t even know it exists.”
Cartier Santos Dumont, circa. 1904
Timekeeping 100 years ago was notably distant to today, with even the concept of society telling the time by looking down at their wrist still in its infancy. It’s tough to imagine today, but in the grand lineage of horology, the wristwatch represents only a slither of time initially viewed as an elaborate women’s accessory while the pocketwatch reigned the supreme choice for men.
World War I was the first time men began to wear a watch on the wrist at scale due to its practicality and utility, despite a creation ten years before the war being widely recognised as the first modern men’s wristwatch – the Cartier Santos Dumont.
Cartier Grand Tank Cintrée, circa. 1941, image credit: Phillips
Regrettably, there isn’t enough time to detail the illustrious history of Cartier and its significance to the progression of the wristwatch, but at the time of the first Obus, Cartier was regularly experimenting with different shapes, configurations, and executions of their graceful design precedent, albeit as special orders. Some of the brand’s most celebrated watches exist as evolutions from the Tank, including the Cintrée, Asymétrique, and Chinoise, to name just a few.
Its inventory of adaptations is endless and unmatched, yet despite this breadth of creativity, Cartier had only produced 2,200 wristwatches across the entire production before 1965. As such, all Cartier from the early to mid-20th century are exceptionally scarce, handcrafted rarities highly revered by the true connoisseurs, including the Obus.
Cartier Tank Obus Ref. 16302, circa. 2000s, image credit: Fellows
However, the references that remain unsung today hail from the era of serial production at Cartier. Scale at La Maison arrived during the 1970s, and like every European watch manufacturer during this time, the French jeweller wasn’t immune to the challenges of this era. The dawn of quartz timekeeping, a shift in styles towards modern and sporty, and an acquisition by several investors saw the house move away from being an outright bespoke creative and more into a commercially conscious brand with bottom lines and a need for chic creations for new audiences.
The newly led Cartier management transformed a demanding spell for the industry into a success due to the likes of a revitalised Santos, the Pathère and the gold-plated Must De Cartier line. Equipped with cutting-edge quartz-powered movements, the bullet lugs and square case of the Obus played a role in this new direction, entering the collection in the ‘80s through two very different executions. First was the 1630, and it was kept elegantly quintessential.
Cartier Tank Obus Quadrant circa. 1980s, image credit: Analog:Shift
However, the Obus Quadrant looked remarkably more like a piece from the early 20th century than the late, as a large bezel expanding over the top of the watch housed enamelled Roman numerals, leaving just enough space for a minimalist dial aperture. A good 1630 can be had for between £5,000 to £7,000, whereas a solid large-sized Quadrant will set you back around £10,000.
Cartier Tank Obus CPCP, circa. 1998, image credit: Watch Works Haarlem
The 1990s and 2000s were two favourable decades for the industry, with a positive uptick in watch collecting and mechanical appreciation across the board. Cartier’s response was to introduce a new collection of watches that revisits some of their most decorated historic designs and re-imagine them. Called the ‘Collection Privée Cartier Paris’ but known as the ‘CPCP’, these curated models celebrate timeless and proprietary Cartier creations while maintaining authenticity to the details of the originals. The Obus received the CPCP treatment during this time, with models powered by mechanical movements and featuring guilloché dials, these examples are achingly beautiful. While these references were limited to around 150, you can still find examples today for prices around £10,000 to £12,000.
“If you want a beautiful Tank with lots of the DNA of the Louis and you’re open to a slightly different shape because of its smaller, square footprint with its bullet lugs, the Obus is a very unusual choice that stands out for the right reasons,” says Stevens.
Cartier Tank Obus CPCP, circa. 1998, image credit: Watch Works Haarlem
‘CPCP’ and ‘£10,000’ together is seen as an oxymoron, as the yearly CPCP releases are some of the most celebrated aspects of Cartier production today. And yet, the Obus is readily available. It’s one of the least talked about Cartier watches today, and considering the CPCP creations and adjacent pieces, that’s quite remarkable. It’s one of only a few completely square Tank models, and with the obsession for Cartier showing zero signs of slowing down, now might be the right time to make one of these unsung heroes yours. I know I’m certainly considering it.
