The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) is regarded as the Oscars of the watch industry. A jury of top industry professionals gathers to determine the best watches of the year across a wide range of categories. From the grand prize called “Aiguille D’Or” right down to the Challenge category for watches priced at CHF 3,000 or less. The 2024 GPHG Awards Ceremony took place last night (13^th November) so let’s take a look at the GPHG results 2024.

“Aiguille D’Or” Grand Prix: IWC Eternal Calendar

Starting with the most prestigious award, the “Aiguille D’Or” Grand Prix was won by the IWC Eternal Calendar. This isn’t exactly a surprise considering the rarity of secular calendar complications in addition to featuring a world record breaking moon phase complication.

“Petite Aiguille” Prize: Kudoke 3 Salmon

It was only last week that we took a deep dive into the world of Kudoke and their accessible Saxon watchmaking. Evidently the GPHG jury agree, awarding the stylish and minimalist 3 Salmon the “Petite Aiguille” prize for watches between CHF 10,000 and CHF 3,000.

Tourbillon Watch Prize: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

The return of the Daniel Roth brand has definitely been one of the most memorable moments of 2024 in the watch industry this year so it’s nice to see that rewarded with an award from GPHG. The Tourbillon Souscription’s distinctive double ellipse shape and retrograde scales are the epitome of both classy style and watchmaking prowess.

Time Only Prize: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

H. Moser & Cie. prove that sometimes elegance and simplicity can be winning features. The Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel features a sleek integrated bracelet design with a fumé blue dial in enamel that is stunning.

Sports Watch Prize: Ming 37.09 Bluefin

Another interesting part of the GPHG is seeing smaller and more niche brands receive kudos from the wider industry. Ming isn’t exactly a new name on the block but 2024 has felt like something of a renaissance with an increase in productivity, style and quality as exemplified by the 37.09 Bluefin that beat out competition from giants like Zenith, Tudor and IWC.

Full Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) Results 2024

Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser & Cie. winner of the Time Only Watch Prize 2024

“Aiguille D’Or” Grand Prix: IWC Eternal Calendar

Ladies’ Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Jour Nuit

Ladies’ Complication Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Brise d’Été

Time Only Prize: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Small Seconds Blue Enamel

Men’s Watch Prize: Voutilainen KV20i Reversed

Men’s Complication Watch Prize: De Bethune DB Kind of Grande Complication

Iconic Watch Prize: Piaget Polo 79

Tourbillon Watch Prize: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription

Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize: Laurent Ferrier Classic Moon Silver

Mechanical Exception Watch Prize: Bovet 1822 Récital 28 Prowess 1

Chronograph Watch Prize: Massena Lab Chronograph Monopoussoir Sylvain Pinaud x Massena Lab

Sports Watch Prize: Ming 37.09 Bluefin

Jewellery Watch Prize: Chopard Laguna High-Jewellery Secret Watch

Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Jour Enchanté

“Petite Aiguille” Prize: Kudoke

Challenge Watch Prize: Otsuka Lotec No.6

Eco-Innovation Prize: Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier

Audacity Prize: Berneron Mirage Sienna

“Horological Revelation” Prize: Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier

Chronometry Prize: Bernhard Lederer 3 Times Certified Observatory Chronometer

Special Jury Prize: Jean-Pierre Hagmann

More details at GPHG.

Back in the spring of this year the British Alliance of Watch and Clock Makers held the inaugural British Watchmakers’ Day, which without a hint of hyperbole was a massive success. We should know, we were there. It was an incredibly day of meeting watch enthusiasts (and more than a few OT readers) and enjoying the company of Britain’s top watch brands. Now they’ve announced that the event will be run again on March 8th, 2025, at Lindley Hall in London (the natural light makes for a fantastic atmosphere compared to other stuffy exhibitions).

It’s due to be even bigger than before with the list of exhibitors expanding to an incredible 44 British brands. That list includes: Accurist, Adley, Alkin, Anoma, Arken, Apiar, Backes&Strauss, Bamford, Beaucroft, Bremont, Brooklands, Bōken, BVOR, Christopher Ward, Clemence, Duckworth Prestex, Elliot Brown, Edward Christopher, Farer, Fears, FWM, Geckota, Golby Watches, Great British Watch Company, Harold Pinchbeck, Helicon, Isotope, MHD, Mr Jones Watches, Marloe, Monro, Nomadic, Omologato, Olivier Meylan, Pinion, Pompeak, Roger W Smith, Schofield, Sidereus, Sinclair Harding, Studio Underdog, Vertex, William Wood and Zero West.

It has also been confirmed that once again brands in attendance will produce highly sought after and collectible special editions that will be exclusively available at the show. If you don’t want to miss out, make sure to secure a ticket as soon as possible. Tickets are currently available only to club members of the the British Alliance of Watch and Clock Makers with general public tickets being made available in January 2025.

British Watchmakers’ Day 2025 is a fantastic opportunity to meet the brains and faces behind some of your favourite watches as well as supporting the British watchmaking industry. We hope to see you there.

More details at British Watchmakers’ Day.

Every year the horological glitterati flock to Watches & Wonders, Geneva and the world’s most important watch show. It’s the watch fair where the great and the good of the industry gather to announce their yearly slate of new releases and latest horological innovations. Well, now you can be among them as Panerai is giving one Oracle Time reader a pair of tickets to attend Watches & Wonders 2025. 

Panerai will welcome you and host you on their stand, but you’ll also be attending on one of the press days – usually reserved for serious insiders like ourselves. That means complimentary (and exceptional) food and drink all day and the chance to visit the expansive array of watchmakers showing off their upcoming 2025 line-ups. We’re talking horological royalty all the way to astonishing independents.

The winner of the Panerai Watches & Wonders tickets will receive two Day access passes to the show, a guided tour of the Panerai booth including a touch and feel session with the brand’s latest timepieces, return flights from the UK to Geneva and transport from the airport in Geneva to the exhibition venue. An action packed day that will make you feel like a true jet-setter (a great excuse to break out your GMT wristwatch for that change in time zone).  

So, if you’ve ever wanted to experience how the other half of the watch industry live, this is your opportunity. All you need to do is enter your details below for your chance to win. Also please read the terms and conditions as this prize is only available to UK residents. Good luck!

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One of the biggest hassles with selling your watch is the pain of navigating the various sales platforms who, more often than not, want to take more than their fair share of the revenue that is rightfully yours. Thankfully eBay is on hand to make selling your watch easy thanks to their latest announcement that they are cutting seller fees across their major categories.

In short, eBay has simplified the process of selling on its platform by cutting all selling fees for private sellers across all categories (except cars, motorcycles and vehicles). This comes following a trial of fee cuts in the fashion category, which has now expanded that to the rest of its site.

What does this mean for people wishing to sell items? Well, in addition to no longer paying final value fees or regulatory operating fees, eBay has simplified the selling process with easier item listing, simplified delivery options and access to eBay Local and eBay Balance services. According to eBay, “Sellers can list items across categories within minutes using guidance about the best pricing and shipping options, alongside AI-generated descriptions and photo-enhancing tools.”

Plus, eBay is rapidly becoming a hotspot for luxury watches thanks to their authenticity guarantee. What this means is when a watch is bought for £1,500 or more, it’s sent to be vetted and verified by international repair and authentication giant Stoll & Co in London. They check everything from the dial and caseback to end links and reference number to make sure everything’s in order, even checking the item matches its seller description.

More details at eBay.

The Hong Kong Watch Fair 2024 took place last month for the 43rd time and for those seeking to discover new brands, a more relaxed attitude and insights into the Asian watch market, it’s the place to be.

Featuring over 700 exhibitors from 15 countries, the fair highlighted both established and emerging brands, with a focus on innovation and craftsmanship. While it lacks the overt luxury feel of shows such as Dubai Watch Week and Watches & Wonders, it has an inclusive feel that I haven’t experienced before. As soon as you enter the vast Hong Kong Exhibition Centre, it’s clear to see that this is a 360-degree approach to a fair, with everything from packaging, machining equipment, parts and components on display. However, with my focus being new watches, I headed to the Salon de TIME to discover new brands showcasing some interesting Chinese watchmaking I’m simply unable to get hands on with in the UK.

Historically it’s been easy to be dismissive of Chinese watchmaking but over the past decade the growth, especially in the mid-sector, has been unparalleled. While the Swiss market is still the top player when it comes to luxury, China is almost single-handedly responsible for creating a new style of mid-tier watch. By which I mean the emergence of brands creating haute horology focused watches at a fraction of the price of Swiss and European competitors.

Behrens Ultralight Weight 20G

Whether it’s Behrens lightweight creations (like we saw at Geneva Watch Week), Agelocer’s super accessible tourbillons or Lucky Harvey’s whimsical gambling functions, it’s worth keeping an eye on the creations coming out of the Shenzen industrial area. And it’s not just the bold and brash creations that drew my eye, companies like Bejing Watches and Seagull have seen massive growth and produce some incredible value, classically designed watches.

Agelocer Flying Tourbillon

This rise is also driven by China’s robust manufacturing capabilities and increasing interest in wearable tech and smartwatches. Chinese brands have adapted well to market demands for tech-savvy watches, offering a blend of tradition and innovation. Smartwatches, which are gaining popularity globally, also had a significant presence at the fair, positioning Chinese brands as contenders in both traditional and modern watch categories.

Hong Kong Watch Fair not only highlighted these trends but also facilitated business networking, discussions on sustainability, and the future of watchmaking. This year’s edition saw forums discussing market forecasts and technological integration in watch designs, further emphasizing China’s influence in these growing segments. As Chinese brands continue to innovate and blend traditional craftsmanship with modern technology, their global presence in the watchmaking industry is only expected to grow.​

More details at HKTDC.

Earlier in the year rumours began flying that Rolex would be stepping down from its position as the lead watch and official timing sponsor of the Formula 1 circuit. At the time people immediately began to speculate that Tag Heuer would be stepping up to fill the void and now it has been confirmed that those rumours are true. Although alongside Tag Heuer, the watchmaker’s parent company LVMH is also stepping into the Formula 1 realm as well.

The deal between F1 and LVMH kicks in from 2025 and consists of a 10-year global partnership. The precise details of the partnership are sparse on the ground but it has been confirmed that Tag Heuer, Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessey will all have a role.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith

If I had to guess: Tag Heuer will become the timing partner, Moët Hennessey will provide the podium champagne and Louis Vuitton will likely be in charge of trophy presentation like they’ve done in other sports (and eSports). It’s not that surprising that this is happening considering that when Frédéric Arnault was CEO at Tag Heuer he made a big deal of F1 being a huge part of their plans for growth – they even have a collection called the Formula 1 that includes high profile collaborations with the likes of Mario and Kith. And now that he’s CEO of LVMH Watches, he can help to make that a reality.

Stefano Domenicali, President & CEO of Formula 1, Bernard Arnault, Chairman & CEO of LVMH Group, Greg Maffei, President & CEO of Liberty Media, Frédéric Arnault, CEO of LVMH Watches.

Regarding the partnership Frédéric said, “In recent years, Formula 1 has truly become one of the most desirable sports in the world. It’s a vibrant discipline that echoes a number of values that are very important to us, such as innovation, team spirit and performance. For many years, several of our Maisons have also chosen to invest in Formula 1, whether to create unique experiences or for moments of celebration. With our Maisons and the expertise of our Group, we want to further grow this experiential dimension that Formula 1 provides all over the world. We are only at the very beginning of this partnership, but the seasons that await us promise to be extraordinary.”

More details at LVMH and Tag Heuer.

 

 

 

 

 

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The Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch is arguably the most impactful watch launched this decade. Whether you love it or hate it, people can’t stop talking about it. One of the most controversial details of its launch is that it’s a boutique exclusive that Swatch said they would never sell online. Well… now they’ve walked back that statement as they are trialling selling the watches online in certain global markets. Specifically, the Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch will be available to buy online in the USA and China.

It’s worth noting that the full range isn’t available just yet, with only four of the original models up for grabs, those being the Mission on Earth, Mission to the Sun, Mission to the Moon and Mission to Mars. They’re arguably the most quintessential models of that original 11, encompassing the most colourful versions as well as the version that stays the truest to Omega’s original vision.

You might be asking yourself why the United States and China have been chosen for this limited online availability and the answer is most apparent when you think about those two countries in geographic terms. They are both absolutely massive. It’s a fact of logistics that there are huge swathes of them that are nowhere near an official Swatch boutique. Hence, the online sales allow the more remote Swatch fans to enjoy the collection.

As such, we here in the UK shouldn’t expect to see a ‘buy now’ button show up on the Swatch website next to the MoonSwatch any time soon. Although now that Swatch has dipped its toes in the water, perhaps the temptation to cash in might prove too much. Only time will tell. More details are due to be announced on the Swatch website (USA and China only) later today.

More details at Swatch.

Ricardo Guadelupe is the new Honorary President of Hublot

It is the season for business shake-ups it would appear. Following news of Richemont reshuffling their leadership with Nicholas Bos stepping into the revived role of CEO in May, now LVMH watches division have also announced a changing of the guard. Richemont and LVMH are two of the largest luxury brand management groups in the world and while these new appointments likely won’t have an immediate impact on the watches on your wrist, they will inevitably affect the long term direction of the brands.

Focussing on the LVMH appointments, the instigating factor can be traced to Hublot. After 20 years at the top of the company as managing director and then CEO, Ricardo Guadelupe has decided to step back from operational management. Instead he will take up the role of Honorary President of Hublot. Of course, a power vacuum must be filled, which leads into the next appointment.

Julien Tornare is appointed the new CEO of Hublot

Julien Tornare will replace Ricardo as CEO of Hublot. Tornare is currently the CEO of Tag Heuer and will be moving on after holding the position for only 6-months at the sporty brand. Evidently he is the current favoured son of LVMH, seeing him move up the ladder from Zenith to Tag to Hublot in such rapid succession.

Antoine Pin is appointed the new CEO of Tag Heuer

Replacing Tornare as CEO at Tag Heuer will be Antoine Pin, the managing director of Bulgari. At first it seems like an odd appointment to me as Bulgari and Tag Heuer have very different branding and styles. However, when you think about the recent celebration of the sporty Bulgari Aluminium there is actually a closer relationship between Tag Heuer and Bulgari than is immediately apparent.

These changes of leadership take effect from September 1, 2024, meaning there is still a few months until they are implemented. It will be interesting to see how these appointments affect their brands, especially during a period where the watch industry appears to be slowing down after the peak of 2020-2022.

More details at Tag Heuer.

After a decade long partnership, IWC and Lewis Hamilton will finally part ways when Hamilton joins Ferrari at the end of this season. That’s because IWC sponsor the Mercedes F1 team while Ferrari is sponsored by Richard Mille, meaning the partnership can no longer continue when Hamilton changes team. Rather than mourn the end of this partnership though, IWC are celebrating its legacy with a farewell pop-up event in London taking place at Battersea Power Station from 2nd – 7th July.

The pop-up be a retrospective look at Hamilton’s career with Mercedes and the IWCs they’ve created in the years they’ve been together. It promises to feature exhibition items such as his 2020 Silverstone 1st place trophy and Mercedes-AMG F1 W10 EQ Power+ car from the 2019 Formula One World Championship. Plus, the Ingenieur Chronograph Edition Lewis Hamilton, 2014 (IW379602), Ingenieur Chronograph Sport Edition 50th  Anniversary of Mercedes-AMG, 2017, (IW380902) and Portugieser Tourbillon Retrograde “Lewis Hamilton”, 2023, (IW394008).

It’s a fantastic opportunity to check out the connection between the legendary racer and the iconic watch brand. Plus, why not make a day of it considering that London Battersea Power Station has recently become one the UK’s watch retail hotspots. The pop-up exhibition will be located at Malaysia Square, Battersea Power Station, London, SW11 8BJ and you are invited to register for attendance on the IWC website.

More details at IWC.

A few weeks ago, I wrote a post on Instagram regarding the Rolex introductions at Watches and Wonders. One of the comments it elicited was “I just want Rolex to stop playing the Fake Scarcity”. The commentor went on to say that they wanted to walk into a Rolex store and be able to buy any model they chose. My initial thought on reading this was, “Well I would like to walk into a Porsche dealer and buy a 911 GT3 in my chosen colour, and I know my wife would like to stroll into Hermes and pick up an alligator Birkin – but it ain’t going to happen.”

The truth is that I have heard this complaint from several sources and the underlying assumption in the minds of these conspiracy theorists is that Rolex have chosen to withhold supplies to retailers in order to drive up demand for their watches. When a police officer investigates a crime, the first question they ask is “cui bono?”, which means “who benefits from this act?” And that’s the question I ask anyone who mentions this conspiracy: “How does Rolex benefit from selling fewer watches?” I would be interested if anyone has a logical answer to this question.

Rolex workshop in Bienne

There are two immutable facts at the root of this problem; firstly, it is a natural urge to desire something which we can’t have, and secondly there are quite a lot of objects in this world where the demand exceeds the supply. Those who cannot accept these two facts are the proponents of the conspiracy. And, if this situation is explained to them, their immediate retort is “Then why don’t Rolex increase production?”, which is really just a different facet of the same misguided belief. Again, the assumption is that Rolex are staging some kind of Go-Slow – but for whose benefit?

Ironically Rolex did increase production last year. In a lengthy chat with a senior Rolex executive who I have known for well over a decade, I was told that production had increased by a sizeable amount. However, even if production increases from 100% to 110% and the demand remains at 180%, the prospective client will hardly notice.

Rolex World Headquarters in Geneva

Rolex are obviously aware of the unbalanced supply/demand equation and are committed to doing something about it – they announced a 1 billion CHF investment in a brand-new factory in a green field site as well as a 97,000 sq. ft facility in the same area to train workers for the new factory. Rolex never announce the size of any investment, but the 1bn CHF figure was widely quoted by all the Swiss news sources, so I am assuming it is not too far off the actual figure.

As a side note, the supply issue – if we are going to use that term – doesn’t stem from the disruption to the industry supply chain that was widely reported during the turbulent 2020-2021 period – as many people supposed to be the case. Rolex manufacture everything in house (except hands and sapphire glass, though that may change in time) and are perfectly capable of operating independently for a while. Instead, the bottle neck is finished movements, which the creation of new factories should help to alleviate.

The new factories are essentially medium to long term solutions to the supply problem; the short term outlook is promising too. It’s important to understand that the supply/demand equation is cyclical, and the cycle is swinging back to availability as the flippers and the crypto kids fall by the wayside. Many of them were ‘investing’ in watches and/or crypto with funds borrowed at very low interest rates; once the economy changed and most crypto coins lost massive amounts of value as interest rates rose simultaneously, they lost money and any interest in watches.

So don’t expect to suddenly see the “For Exhibition Only” signs vanish from the window of your local Rolex agent but everything points to an easing of the supply. And remember what your mother told you “Patience is a virtue”.

More details at Rolex.

Chrono24 is continuing to expand as one of the most prominent online watch retail platforms in the world. A key part in that growth has been the onboarding of several key investors from across the spectrum of sporting superstars. Last year Cristiano Ronaldo became an investor and today it has been announced that F1 racer Charles Leclerc is a Chrono24 investor too.

Leclerc is no stranger to the world of wristwatches, being an ambassador for Richard Mille through his connection to them via Ferrari. His investment into Chrono24 (for an undisclosed amount) is a joint venture with his brother Lorenzo, with whom Charles consults on the majority of his entrepreneurial endeavours.

Image credit: Richard Mille

“We are extremely proud to welcome Charles and Lorenzo into our Chrono24 adventure,” comments Chrono24 CEO Carsten Keller. “These brothers are highly esteemed and share our passion for watches as well as our company’s drive for excellence. Their savvy is formidable, and together, we are poised to reach new heights.”

According to the data from Chrono24, where people can input and track the value of their watch collections, their users own more than 3.7million watches with a combined value of $50 billion, around 8% of the total value of all watches on Earth. It makes them one of the largest watch selling platforms in the world and with increasing interest from celebrity investors, that trend looks set to continue.

More details at Chrono24.

We’re halfway through 2024 (if you can believe it) and Rolex is raising their prices again, despite doing so already at the start of the year. Rolex price changes are always a big deal, not least because grey market flippers believe they can squeeze a few extra pennies from collectors because the perceived value of each watch has increased. However, if you’re an honest collector (as an Oracle Time reader I assume this the case) who genuinely wants a Rolex and is willing to join the waiting list then things are not so bad as it sounds.

This latest round of price rises only affects a particular selection of Rolex models, specifically the golden references. On average precious metal Rolexes have seen a 4% price increase on top of the 4% in January, which is designed to cover the fact gold itself has seen a 17% price increase since the start of the year. Let’s take a look at the price rises of some specific Rolexes to see how it’s affected real prices since 2023.

The Breakdown

January Price Rises

In January Rolex took a very even-handed approach to price rises. There weren’t any dramatic winners or losers like we saw in 2023. The fact that all changes sat so close to inflation shows that really this was a proportional adjustment, rather than being targeted price increases. Still, just because it’s proportional doesn’t mean it won’t hurt the pocket and create an emotional response – frankly no one likes paying more for the same item.

The increases have also pushed some watches above significant milestone prices. For example, the steel no-date Submariner going above £8,000. To me, with the standard Submariner at £8,050 and the standard Omega Seamaster Diver 300m at £5,600, it no longer feels like they’re in the same ballpark. Whereas when the difference was 5.6k to 7.7k it felt like the gap was less significant.

The last point to cover, and it’s an important one, is the fact that this is a snapshot of Rolex’s price rises. While the change from year to year is typically small, the picture across a longer period of time is very different. If we were to compare prices back to 2020, we’d find an average price increase above 20%. Part of that is obviously due to regional market inflation as we’ve been discussing, but some it could also be attributed to next gen movements and global supply chain inflation. However, the overall story is clear, Rolexes are getting more expensive and they look set to continue to do so.

Rolex Boutique, Genève

June Price Rises

Rolex’s June price rises took effect on June 1st and are targeted at their precious metal references, specifically gold. Whether it’s yellow gold, white gold or Everose gold, they’ve all seen increases. Above you’ll note that the white gold Day-Date went from £36,400 to £37,800, an increase of £1,400 or 3.8%. It’s the same story for the golden submariners and Daytonas that all rose around 4% while their steel counterparts remain at the prices set in January.

This is because gold prices have gone up by 17% so far in 2024, rising from approximately £1,600 at the start of the year to around £1,800 currently. Interestingly, the story in January was that Rolex had been even-handed with their price rises but if you look at the total rises, the complete pictures shows that precious metal models have now seen substantially higher rises, just spread out over the year. Meaning there are no headline figures of 8% or 11% rises even though that may be the truth.

Still, just because it’s proportional doesn’t mean it won’t hurt the pocket and create an emotional response – frankly no one likes paying more for the same item. The increases have also pushed some watches above significant milestone prices. For example, the steel no-date Submariner going above £8,000. To me, with the standard Submariner at £8,050 and the standard Omega Seamaster Diver 300m at £5,600, it no longer feels like they’re in the same ballpark. Whereas when the difference was £5.6k to £7.7k it felt like the gap was less significant.

More details at Rolex.

At the start of the year Seiko announced the return of their ‘Power Design Project’, the second edition of an exhibition series that first debuted in 2001. Essentially, it’s an opportunity for Seiko’s watch designers to unleash their creativity with outlandish and incredibly fun concept timepieces that then tour the world. You can view the seven watches in the UK this month as the Seiko ‘Power Design Project’ is exhibiting at London’s Japan House from May 20^th – June 20^th.

Each of the watches in the exhibition have been designed by an established designer within Seiko’s extensive team and is based on the theme of ‘incredibly specialised watches’. Watches so niche that only the smallest percentage of the population could possibly find a use for them. The results are bizarre, interesting and dare I say, very cool. Let’s take a look at the watches in the exhibition.

Update: The opening of the Seiko Power Design Project at Japan House is going to be slightly delayed. The exact new opening date for the exhibition is still TBC at this time, but it is coming soon, and it should be in place by 23rd May 2024 (if not before).

01 Hide-and-Seek

This gargantuan piece of wristwear has been specially developed for use in competitive hide-and-seek. Yes, there is an official competitive hide-and-seek tournament with official rules and everything. The watch is designed to be worn by the seeker (known as the ogre in Japanese, hence the ogre insignia on the strap) and has several features designed to assist them in the game.

First of all, there are two ‘modes’ to the watch, open and closed. When closed, the top of the watch features a rotating dial that can be used to keep track of how many hiders have been caught. When open, the top section unfolds revealing a lens and black eye patch – by putting you left eye to the lens and covering your right eye, you can see the time display while having the rest of your vision completely blocked, perfect for precisely timing the initial hiding portion of the game, during which time a playful tune plays from the sound complication. The display itself also has specific scales for counting down that initial 60-second period and the official 10-minute duration of the game.

02 Patterner

If you’ve ever attended any red carpet event or gala, then you likely already know that a wristwatch is an important part of an ensemble outfit. However, with the’ Power Design Project’ Seiko Patterner, your wristwatch is now also an important part in the creation of that outfit in a literal sense. It features a pincushion case, making it the perfect tool for patternmakers, those who take a conceptual design and turn them into actionable instructions in order to produce an item of clothing.

There are three versions of the watch on display, a denim style one in blue with a round pincushion case and then black and pink editions with flower shaped cushions. One of the most fun elements of the design is the fact the crown has been turned into an oversize pin, making it look like a natural part of the piece. Additionally, if you want to time a specific event, you can simply place a pin in the cushion at the corresponding point of the display.

03 Sukiyaki

I must profess I am not at all knowledgeable when it comes to Japanese cuisine, so the nuances of this next watch are a little lost on me. It’s based on a traditional Japanese dish called Sukiyuki, a type of hotpot consisting of thinly sliced beef and vegetables. The recipe to create it is well documented and highly orthodox, requiring the placement of the ingredients in precise positions.

The watch inspired by it is designed to perfectly time the cooking of the dish. Each of the ingredients is listed around the edge of the watch and by following the timings, you should end up with a perfectly cooked dish. In order to create as accurate timings as possible the designer worked with the celebrated chefs of Ningyocho Imahan, a restaurant in Ginza, Tokyo.

04 Panda

Ok, this is the first of the ‘Power Design Project’ watches that I straight up wish was a real watch and not just a concept. It’s inspired by a child’s observation that so-called panda wristwatches are, in reality, nothing like the cute bears they’re named after. Clearly, this is something that must be rectified and the resulting timepiece is an absolute delight. More so even than a watch like the H. Moser x MB&F Pandamonium with its panda DJ.

It has its chronograph pushers (and crown) rotated to the top of the watch and shaped like the ears of a panda. Then, the black subdials have been elongated into the shapes of a panda’s actual eye markings against a white fur-textured dial. Completing the appearance is a little black nose decoration and the inscription pandagraph forming a smiling mouth. If Seiko mass produced this watch today and sold them, they would have a major hit on their hands.

05 Masking Tape

Now we move to what is certainly the most niche of the ‘incredibly specialised watches’ – even more niche than the hide-and-seek watch. The Masking Tape watch is for people obsessed with masking tape. Lovers of stationary who simply need to keep a roll on them at all times. To be fair, the concept comes from the designer himself, who supposedly keeps a roll of tape on him by slotting it over the head of his watch. In the world of creative design, I can picture that keeping tape on you is useful to fix and alter designs.

In order to turn this into a design feature, the watch case is designed in two parts that screw together. You separate the parts and then thread them through the centre of a masking tape roll with an internal diameter of 30mm. It can also accommodate rolls between 15mm and 20mm thickness. The internal edge of the case that leads down to the dial then has a broad surface where you can attach some tape to match the design to the roll attached.

06 Sunny Men

It’s often a joke or April fools idea that brands should release watches that are just sundials for your wrist, well, that’s exactly what we have here. Of course, the difficulty with a wrist-mounted sundial is that sundials are traditionally static modes of telling the time that are specifically calibrated and positioned within their environment so that they are accurate. When you move around with a sundial, the angle and direction it should be placed at changes.

Fortunately, the Sunny Men accounts for this by having a dial that can be moved and rotated as well as being equipped with the accoutrements that allow you to perform the necessary calculations. For example, there’s a spirit level in the base to ensure that it’s completely level and a compass in the strap for orienting it properly. Plus, markings for latitude and longitude. However, all of this can’t help the fact that if it’s cloudy, you can’t use the watch – which is why you need the luck of being a Sunny Men.

07 Ambidextrous

Just like the Panda, the Ambidextrous is a watch that Seiko should take out from being a concept and put straight into production. It’s really that cool. It’s a watch that’s designed to be worn on both the left and the right wrist with completely different appearances depending which wrist it’s worn on. The key to understanding the concept is that you don’t just take it off your left wrist and move it the right – you also have to rotate it 180 degrees so that the crown is always pointed down your arm towards your hand.

The trick is that the dial has four hands, which are two pairs of hour and minute indicators. The black set is for when the watch is oriented to be worn on the left hand and the white for the right hand. Corresponding to that, the case itself has multiple finishes, either a black coating or plain steel. Most innovative, the dial itself is constructed like a holographic card, where viewing it from one direction it looks black and from the other it looks white. Incredibly smart design.

More details at Seiko Design.

Despite enduring cyberattacks to the Christie’s website that prevented online bidding, the Only Watch Auction 2024 was a resounding success, raising CHF 28.3 million (approx. £24.9 million) for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research. The headline sale was that of the Patek Philippe Grande and Petite Sonnerie ref. 6301A, which reached a hammer price of CHF 15.7 million (approx. £13.8 million) rocketing it up to the fourth most expensive watch sold at auction ever.

Considering that nine months ago it was Patek Philippe withdrawing from the auction that contributed to the postponement of the 2023 edition of Only Watch, it’s the closest thing to an haute horological Cinderella story we’ve seen.

First, what is the Grande and Petite Sonnerie Minute Repeater ref. 6301A? Well, it’s actually Patek Philippe’s back up watch because the original watch they had put up for the sale in 2023 has not made a return, that was the brand new ref. 1938P Minute Repeater Alarm. The 6301A is an old model so you may expect it to be less exciting than a new grand complication, but that’s simply not the case because it’s second only to the Grand Master Chime in terms of complexity and is actually substantially more prestigious than the 1938P.

It measures 44.8mm in diameter with a platinum case and houses the calibre GS 36‑750 PS IRM, featuring a three-gong minute repeater, a patented strikework mechanism and patented jumping small seconds. For Only Watch, they’ve dressed the watch with a handwork guilloché dial in blue with a flinqué enamel finish and wavy patten – as also seen on the ref. 5178G. On top of that the twin power reserve indicators for the movement and sonnerie complication have been given the inscriptions ‘Only’ and ‘One’, as tribute to its 1-of-1 status.

By reaching a price of CHF 15.7 million it lands as the fourth most expensive watch sold at auction – it was bought by a collector called Zach Lu, who also owns the coveted Tiffany Nautilus. It squeezes out another Patek Philippe from the fourth slot, the ref. 1518 sold by Phillips for $11.1 million (approx. £8.9 million) in 2016. The most expensive watch sold at auction is also a Patek, the Grand Master Chime produced for Only Watch in 2019, which went for $31 million (approx. £24.7 million).

The CHF 15.7 million also means Patek Philippe accounted for over half of the 28.3 million total of the Only Watch sale, raising more than every other watch combined. Even with the likes of Richard Mille, Rexhep Rexhepi and F.P. Journe all going for more than CHF 2 million each. Still, regardless of the performance of individual watches, it’s nice to see Only Watch back on the calendar and hopefully there will be more highlights like this in future.

More details at Only Watch.

At the tail end of last year news emerged of a handful of watch brands taking up residence in the Royal Opera House Arcade in Covent Garden. The biggest name among them was Omega and now as promised their new flagship boutique has opened. A luxurious showroom dedicated to all of their collections set in the beating heart of one of London’s most popular entertainment districts.

The boutique itself is located at Unit 7 Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, WC2E 8HD, nestled back behind a lovely colonnade. The interior is a striking mix of lush red carpets, white accents and wooden surfaces accented by impressive lighting fixtures that hang like chandeliers. It all feels appropriately operatic for the location.

Raynald Aeschlimann, President and CEO of Omega, says, “Covent Garden is such a vibrant part of London and provides a very exciting and luxurious location for our newest boutique. Customers here will really get a chance to see the magic of our watchmaking and also discover our famous brand DNA, from space and ocean exploration through to James Bond and the Olympic Games.”

So next time you’re heading to the theatre or a West End show, why not stop by Omega’s new Covent Garden boutique to add an extra layer of class and refinement to your evening. That or you could head to the nearby Swatch store to pick up the latest Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch.

More details at Omega.

If you’re a collector, it makes sense to stay on top of the data when it comes to the watch industry. A strong performance on the secondary market is a great indicator for watches that are worth investing in as well as a sign of where trends and interests are heading. Chrono24, one of the largest and most popular online watch sales platforms has published their official ChronoPulse – Watch Index Report covering sales data from their watches in Q1 of 2024.

As a disclaimer, this is a report published by a retail platform in an industry that has been experiencing a down turn across the past two years, which may be a relevant context to keep in mind. ChronoPulse, if you’re unaware, is the free and proprietary watch index operated by Chrono24 based on their own data.

According to the data, prices for luxury watches are continuing to drop, with a decrease of -0.49% from January 1^st to March 31^st 2024. However, that decrease is less than the -0.97% reduction from Q4 of 2023 or the even larger -2.23% reduction in Q1 of 2023. Looking at the trend of that curve implies that the drop currently being experienced is starting to flatten out as prices settle.

Cartier Santos De Cartier Dual Time

Additionally, a small number of brands (4 out of 14 studied in the report) actually saw price growth in the first quarter of 2024. Jaeger-LeCoultre rose +3.97%, Patek Philippe +0.41%, Tag Heuer +0.34% and Rolex +0.26%. This would appear to be at least anecdotally consistent with the increased interest in retro style timepieces and vintage dress watches. However, small gains by a handful of brands are off-set by the losses by names such as Breitling -4.49%, Cartier -3.47%, Omega -2.92%, Audemars Piguet -2.24 percent and Hublot -2.13%, among others.

However, looking at complete brand figures doesn’t present the full picture. For example, while Cartier is down on average, a specific model like the Santos is actually experiencing a rise of 18.25%. So while the big picture might look grey, there are some shining examples hidden within the figures and a shrewd collector will be able to find them.

To summarise, the ChronoPulse – Watch Index Report shows that the pre-owned watch market is continuing to see a reduced prices on the whole. While at the same time, specific models and brands are starting to see rises and indicate that the decline may be bottoming out. However, it’s still too early to say whether more decreases are likely to occur in future or if prices will continue to stabilise.

More details on Chrono24.

If you’re unfamiliar with Only Watch, it’s a charity watch auction that happens once every two years to raise funds for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy research. The auction consists of unique 1-of-1 timepieces created by the world’s most high-profile brands. However, the 10^th edition of the auction which was supposed to take place last year was delayed after questions arose about the initiative’s finances. Following months of financial audits and internal restructuring, the landmark auction is back as Only Watch returns for 2024 on May 10^th.

We’ve already talked about the many and varied timepieces that will be up for sale and the majority of them return for the 2024 edition including the H. Moser x MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium and Tag Heuer Monaco Split Seconds. Several brands who initially dropped out of the running are also set to return, the most high profile of which is Patek Philippe.

H. Moser x MB&F Streamliner Pandamonium

What impact the absence of these names will have on the overall auction is up for debate, it will certainly reduce the overall funds raised however, that may be offset somewhat by the fact that the overall range of brands taking part had increased for 2023. Regardless, it’s exciting to see what is one of the most innovative and unique events in the wristwatch calendar make a return. The auction is set to take place on May 10^th at the Palexpo in Geneva and is being conducted by Christie’s.

More details at Only Watch.

With a fleet of new Rolexes being announced, such as the Perpetual 1908 with guilloché dial, it’s inevitable that some of the existing models are sent out to pasture. It’s always sad to see a favourite reference be discontinued but to be honest, the number of watches getting the axe is relatively low compared to previous years. Chances are if you had your eye on anything except the Yacht-Master II you’ll still be able to buy a new one. Here’s every watch Rolex has discontinued in 2024.

Rolex Daytona Le Mans Ref. M126529LN

One of the shock Rolex discontinuations has been the removal of the Daytona Le Mans edition that was only released 10 months ago. As the watch was produced for Le Mans’ 100th anniversary, there is a certain logic in no longer producing it during a non-anniversary year. Plus when it was launched it was described as a limited edition although no quantity of available pieces was announced.

It’s a real shame because it’s a very cool interpretation of the Daytona and the 24-hour chronograph counter was a very thematic addition to the collection. Fortunately, this isn’t the last we’ll see of the Le Mans because at Watches & Wonders, Rolex have showcased what appears to be an off-catalogue edition of the watch in yellow gold as a replacement. Although details are thin on the ground regarding that watch currently.

Rolex Datejust ‘Motif’ Editions Ref. 126200, 126231 and 126233

Rolex Datejust 36 ‘Palm Motif’ ref. 126200

This one is close to my heart because the Rolex Datejust 36 palm fronds and fluted dial motifs were some of the first Rolexes to be released when I started working at Oracle Time. Specifically, these are the refs. 126200, 126231 and 126233 (Palm and Golden Fluted Motif). They were cool sub-collection of Datejusts with fun dials that feature leaf-like patterns or that are inspired by the classic Rolex fluted bezel.

126231

126233 (Palm Motif)

126233 (Golden Fluted Motif)

However, if the new Perpetual 1908 is anything to judge from, Rolex is by no means done with exploring fresh and interesting dial patterns. If anything, the 1908 features a more extreme patterned dial than the motif editions implying that more adventurous things are possible in future.

Rolex Yacht-Master II Ref. 116681

The entire Yacht-Master II collection is gone. That’s essentially the long and the short of it, the whole sub-collection has been discontinued. It’s important to note that the standard Yacht Master isn’t going anywhere, just its regatta timer counterpart. Regatta timers are a very niche complication designed to count down the time until the beginning of a boat race, hence why it’s an appropriate complication for the Yacht-Master. In fact you’d argue that the Yacht-Master II is more of a genuine boat-themed watch than the standard version.

At this point, I would go so far as to say I don’t know why Rolex doesn’t just discontinue the standard Yacht-Master because it offers very little that’s different to the Submariner. Its main benefit is being a more luxury focussed collection but after the launch of a gold Deepsea. I don’t see what the Yacht-Master is adding to the range.

More details at Rolex.