Seiko are one of the most influential watchmakers in the world. When it comes to the sub-£3,000 category of horology, no one does it better. Their characterful watches embody the best qualities of Japanese watchmaking: precision, artistry and practicality.
However, Seiko also happen to be one of the most prolific watchmakers in the world and keeping track of what’s what with Seiko watches can be difficult. To guide you through their collections, we’ve created this handy guide to every Seiko model you can buy at Seiko Boutique.
Prospex Models
Arguably the most famous and diverse of Seiko’s collections is the Prospex line. The name is a reference to “pro-specs”, a range of watches that meet professional standards in the areas of diving, racing and exploration. Each watch also doubles as a durable and attractive daily beater thanks to their practicality and accessible prices.
Alpinist
The Alpinist is a watch that has shaped the lineage of the Prospex range ever since it was first introduced in 1959. In many regards, it’s the original Seiko sports watch, designed to be easy to read and withstand the rigours of athletic activity.
Some of the innovations introduced on the original 1959 version – which was re-created as a new timepiece in 2021 – are now common across all kinds of watches, such as screw casebacks to protect the movement from sand and grit.
Modern Alpinists are versatile in design with varying degrees of vintage inspiration from reference to reference. Some key references are the highly accurate re-creation SJE085 and the 2023 GMT models like the SPB379J1. Pictured here though is the 1959 re-interpretation SPB243J1, which is the most typical expression of the design with a 38mm steel case and the 6R35 automatic calibre, a well-regarded work horse movement.
Mechanical GMT
At time of writing, the Mechanical GMT is a subcollection that consists of a single timepiece, the Navigator Timer. It’s a heritage reinterpretation of the 1968 watch that was Seiko’s first mechanical GMT with a rotating bezel, allowing it to display multiple time zones at the same time.
Aesthetically it bears certain similarities to the turtle diver but with a less pronounced crown. The modern edition has a sleek monochrome design punctuated by a single dash of colour in the form of a red GMT hand. It’s also sleek in its construction with a diameter of 38.5mm.
Housed inside that case is the calibre 6R54, an automatic piece with a pretty stellar 72-hour power reserve. It’s also a limited edition, so here’s hoping Seiko plan to expand this sub-collection further because it’s very cool.
1965 Revival Diver
The 1965 Revival Diver, also known as the 1965 Re-Interpretation, is the bread and butter of Seiko’s Prospex diving watches. It’s their most traditional design following the styles that are easily recognised in western dive watches too such as the large lumed indexes, rotating dive timer bezel and pronounced lugs. It is essentially Seiko’s Submariner.
In 2024 the collection received a major update with a fresh suite of references for the brand’s 100th anniversary. These are watches like the SPB455J1, which has a black dial, gold coloured accents and most important of all, a water resistance rating of 300m. It was long a criticism of Seiko that their dive watches didn’t have high enough water resistance and with the addition of these new timepieces, that criticism has finally been addressed.
Turtle/King Turtle/Tortoise
Something you need to learn quickly about Seiko watches is that very few of them have official names. Instead, many of the most famous models are given nicknames by fans which retroactively become the accepted name for the model. One of the most iconic examples of this is the Turtle diving watch, which earned its name thanks to the oval shape of the case and its large, sweeping surfaces.
Additionally, references that have distinctive differences from the classic design, even if they’re relatively minor, can spawn entire sub-collections with their own names. As is the case with the King Turtle which is practically identical to the regular turtle but has an upgraded ceramic insert bezel and sapphire glass. There’s also the Tortoise variant which is an adventure watch for use on land that uses a similar case shape. Tortoise = Land Turtle, hopefully you can follow that logic.
The reference pictured here is the ‘Night Vision’ Turtle, which is part of the Black Series, a sub-collection of stealthy black watches with prominent lume found across the Prospex range. With a characteristically large 45mm steel case, it houses the 4R36 automatic movement, which like many Seiko movements can also be supported with manual winding.
Willard
On the surface of it the Willard and the Turtle bear certain similarities, primarily that sweeping curved case. However, the Willard is inspired by military diving watches and so has a more pronounced crown guard and a cleaner dial without a cyclops lens or anything that could impact its instant readability.
The model is named after the character Captain Willard in the film Apocalypse Now as he wears one throughout the film. In 2020, a 55th anniversary limited edition ref. SLA049J1 was released with an attractive blue dial. It measures 44mm in diameter and contains the 8L35 automatic movement, which has an accuracy of +15/-10 seconds per day.
Monster
The Monster is instantly recognisable because of its bezel. It has the chunkiest appearance in the entire Prospex range and indeed out of every Seiko model thanks to its oversized grip. The purpose of the grip is to allow you to adjust the rotating bezel under water or while wearing gloves, something that makes the watch very popular for polar exploration.
The polar regions have particular relevance to Seiko as they have been the official watch partner for several important Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, a fact reflected in their Save the Oceans Antarctica charity references, like this SRPG57K1. It houses the 4R36 movement but the focus of the watch is the dramatic 42.43mm case and its chunk bezel.
Tuna/Baby Tuna
A common trend a few decades ago with dive and tool watches was that bigger is better and back in 1975 Seiko delivered on that adage like no one else. The Tuna is a diving watch with an insane 49.5mm diameter case. It’s large size and round shape earned it its name when fans remarked that it looked like a tin of tuna.
Acknowledging that the size of the watch was an issue for many collectors, Seiko released a smaller version at 43.5mm, affectionally known as the Baby Tuna. It’s testament to how huge the original is that 43.5mm is considered the more wearable option.
There’s also a hybrid analogue-digital version known as the Arnie that’s part of the Prospex streetwear line. However, this is the classic Tuna in all its 49.5mm glory with 1000m water resistance rating.
PADI Samurai/King Samurai/Shogun
As one of the biggest Japanese watch brands in the world, it’s only right that at least one watch makes reference the country’s cultural history. The Samurai has sharp angles and a facetted case that evokes images of the armour worn by traditional Japanese warriors, an impression heightened by the patterned dials.
Similar to the King Turtle, there’s also a higher spec King Samurai version and a dive watch edition called the Shogun because of its bolder aesthetic. The latest addition to the Samurai collection is the PADI ‘Great Blue’ edition from 2023, with a dial texture reminiscent of light seen from below the waves. It’s powered by the 4R35 automatic movement.
Solar Scuba Diver
In the spirit of practicality that can be found running throughout the Prospex range, the Solar Scuba Divers offer a super reliable way to power your dive watch.
Outwardly there’s little to distinguish them from any other dive watch but inside they house a solar quartz movement. The battery is charged by natural and artificial light meaning the power reserve can last for months and months on end.
It’s also another example of Seiko’s exemplary accessibility with the SNE585P1 priced at £480 despite its high tech movement.
Speedtimer 1964 Chronograph
While many of the models in the Prospex have bold with aesthetics the Speedtimer 1964 Chronograph is far more restrained, wearing its vintage inspiration on its sleeve.
It’s based off an original Seiko Chronograph stopwatch that was used in a high profile international athletics event in 1964. Structurally, it has a bicompax display with small seconds and a 30-minute timer courtesy of the 8R46 movement contained within a 42.5mm stainless steel case.
This Ref. SRQ039J1 is a boutique exclusive available at selected stores worldwide.
Speedtimer Chronograph 1972
The Speedtimer Chronograph 1972 is based on a slightly later heritage design than the other reinterpretations in the Prospex Speedtimer category. That means it leans more heavily into the bold, sporty aesthetic that the 70s were known for. This is manifest in the chunkier style of the lugs, which are broader with more pronounced facets.
Powering this version of the Speedtimer is the Calibre 8R48, a slightly slimmer version of the 8R46, allowing the watch to have slightly slimmer proportions as well. And I do mean slight, it’s approximately 0.5mm slimmer in all dimensions.
Speedtimer Chronograph 1969
Another Speedtimer Chronograph model in the range is the 1969 re-interpretation. It’s distinguished from the 1964 model by having a tricompax layout that includes a 24-hour timer and features its tachymeter on the bezel.
Additionally, it’s powered by a solar quartz movement as opposed to an automatic piece. As a result, it’s also more accessible than its Speedtimer stable mate at just £590 but lacks some of the prestige that comes with a mechanical movement.
Speedtimer 1/100th Second Solar Chronograph
One of the most insane watches in the Prospex range is their 1/100th Second Solar Chronograph, which looks utterly crazy with its four subdials, three pushers and crown. In motion, it looks incredible, sporting both a 1/10th of a second chronograph timer and the titular 1/100th of a second timer, making for a dial with a whirl of activity and satisfying asymmetric yet synchronised movement.
Beneath the surface is housed the new 8A50 solar chronograph calibre. Being a solar movement means that it’s quartz and the battery is charged by exposure to natural or electric light, which effectively means it has an infinite power reserve so long as it’s not kept in an opaque storage container all the time, even then Seiko give it an estimated duration of 6-months. Plus, as a quartz piece it’s very accurate with a deviation of +/- 15 seconds per month.
Sumo
Big and round, those are the two adjectives that best describe the sumo design, which until recently was one of the least populous of the Prospex models.
It has a broad 45mm diameter and a case featuring wide curves. However, the display is one of the most skin diver-esque, with oversize circle hour markers and a thick bezel with a dive timer. Although, the grip on the bezel perhaps isn’t as heavily pronounced as it could be.
In 2023 Seiko released the SPB431J1 European exclusive model inspired by the Silfra region in Iceland. It houses the 6R35 movement and is priced at £900, making it middle of the pack in terms of specs and accessibility. A great all-rounder, if you like big watches.
LX
The Seiko LX is a hybrid watch, combining an automatic Spring Drive movement with an electronic regulator, whereby the winding of the watch charges the battery.
Aesthetically it follows a principle of ‘lux’, meaning light, which translates to an increased number of facetted surfaces and sharp angles to catch the light in interesting ways. Its reminiscent of the principles employed by Seiko’s sibling brand Grand Seiko.
Ref. SNR035J1 has a diameter of 44.8mm in titanium, making it a large timepiece, as is expected of Seiko’s tool watches. The high end material of the case combined with the advanced movement makes this one of the least accessible Prospex watches that Seiko produce, its price tag is £4,950.
Presage
Seiko’s Presage range focusses on celebrating the beauty of traditional Japanese crafts and design concepts. As such, they tend to be more refined, falling into the dress watch or daily wear categories of watches.
Sharp Edged
The Seiko Sharp Edged is one of the most popular models in the Presage collection and even across all Seiko models. It’s typified by the stylish patterned dial inspired by traditional Japanese hemp print.
There are a number of different functions available on the Sharp Edged, ranging from GMT to time and date, open heart and calendar variants. The term Sharp Edged comes from the updated case design that has, no surprise, sharp edges and a mirror finish.
Pictured here is the ‘Laurel’ 110th Anniversary ref. SPB413J1, a cool white model with red accents and a case diameter of 40.2mm. It houses the 6R55 automatic movement. While it’s not as fabulously accessible as many Seikos, the £990 price isn’t likely to break the bank.
Cocktail Time
Any watch that takes alcohol as its inspiration is alright by our reckoning. The Cocktail Time is based on the Japanese tradition of after work cocktails, although that’s very much a custom shared in the UK.
Each edition is named after an iconic cocktail such as the Manhattan or Margarita and has a bright and fun aesthetic based on the titular drink. If you have a particular favourite drink, you can’t go wrong picking up the matching Cocktail Time.
This is the Cocktail Time ‘Mockingbird’ inspired by the cocktail of the same name. The defining attribute of the drink is its use of watermelon, which is what inspired the rich green of the dial. Beneath that melon surface is the 4R35 automatic movement.
Classic
A new addition to the Presage range for 2024 is the classic, a series of watches dedicated to the delicate textile crafts Japan is famous for, such as silk. In contrast to models like the Sharp Edged, the Classic is all about smooth curves and softness, in keeping with its inspiration. The result is a timepiece with a traditional round shape, a smooth bezel and brushed lugs.
There are two versions of the Classic in the debut collection the first being a time and date edition and the second being an open heart with a 24-hour day/night indicator subdial. Similarly there are also a handful of colours such as grey, cream and salmon.
Pictured here is the SPB463J1, known as the Shiro-Iro. It has a cream dial with a slightly rough texture that represents the tight weave of silk.
Style 60s
As its name suggests, the Style 60s models are based on classic retro timepieces from the 1960s. The vintage reference that’s most apparent in the design is the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, a watch that’s as prominent today as it was in the 60s.
However, the Style 60s converts the dive watch elements into more refined features such as having a slim bezel scale. Likewise, there are some open heart and small seconds editions that show a modern, elegant take on the retro vintage formula. This is the Ref. SRPL07J1, which has a blue dial, 39.5mm diameter case and is powered by the 4R35 movement.
Craftsmanship Enamel/Arita Porcelain
There are few who demonstrate as much mastery over materials as Japanese artisans. Their culture of dedication to art and perfection leads them to produce some of the best enamel and porcelain found anywhere in the world, so naturally Seiko has found ways to integrate these skills into their watchmaking.
The Craftsmanship Arita Porcelain and Enamel models both follow the concept of Takumi, traditional hand crafts. In order to allow the material dials to sing their loudest, the overall designs of the watches are minimalistic. Pictured is the Arita Porcelain Ref. SPB293J1, a £1,500 watch with a diameter of 40.5mm and housing the 6R31 calibre.
Zen Garden
Seiko’s Zen Garden timepiece refers to one of the most famous phenomena of Japanese culture, Karesansui, better known as zen gardens. It’s the practice of raking gravel into serene patterns like ripples and flowing water, creating a meditative garden space punctuated by a few significant rocks and plants.
Seiko have interpreted this into watch form by using the distinctive rake pattern on the dial with flashes of colour such as red numerals to evoke plants such as red acer trees. There are a number of styles and functions available, representing the wide variance found in zen gardens.
This is the SRPF45J1, which has a classic zen garden pattern dial and an understated 41.7mm steel case. It houses the staple 4R35 movement.
Astron
When Seiko launched the first Astron in 1969 it was a ground-breaking watch thanks to its integrated GPS technology. Specifically, it was the first watch to be capable of automatically updating the time based on your time zone as you travel across the world. The easy utility made it an instant hit and Seiko are still finding ways to increase its usability to this day.
GPS Solar
The GPS Solar is the modern iteration of the original Astron. Stylistically it maintains a very similar profile with a softly curving case, although it has been given some modern flair via the facetted bezel, which gives it a more technical appearance. Crucially, it’s also solar powered, meaning the battery never needs replacing, enhancing the utility that the Astron is famous for.
Pictured is the SSJ021J1, pairing a dark dial with star pattern, gold colour indexes and hands. It has a 41.2mm titanium case and houses the solar calibre called 3X62.
Solar GPS Chrono/Global Active
Alongside the time and date model, Seiko have created two models that aim to push the Astron’s inherent utility to the max. Those are a chronograph model (Chrono) and a calendar model (Global Active). It’s the natural evolution of the collection and enhances what the Astron is all about, showcasing data and information that is actually useful to the wearer.
The SSH155J1 Solar GPS Chrono is a further upgrade because it has a 43.3mm titanium case with a super hard coating, making it exceptionally scratch resistant and durable. Inside is the 5X83 movement.
King Seiko
The King Seiko collection is Seiko’s youngest with the first model being launched early in 2022. It’s the revival of a vintage name as King Seiko was formerly a rival brand to Grand Seiko that disappeared in 1975 when the Daini Seikosha factory closed its doors. A new entry amid every Seiko model.
King Seiko KSK ‘Kiku’ 6L Limited Edition
The King Seiko is arguably one of their coolest collections with a distinctive silhouette created by a round case and prominent facetted lugs. Those sharp facets are matched by the equally sharp hands and bar indexes. There are quite a few references that have been added to the collection since its launch in 2022. Ranging from heritage re-creations to slimline models and special editions.
The edition pictured here is the Kiku 6L limited edition SJE095J1, which combines the retro case with a flower inspired dial. Specifically, it’s based on chrysanthemums with an intricate geometric dial pattern. It’s also part of the slimline range with the calibre 6L35.
Seiko 5 Sports
When looking at every Seiko model, you can’t miss their most accessible line of watches, which is the Seiko 5 Sports, a collection that rarely breaks above £400 mark. That accessibility makes it one of the most common to spot in the wild, even if it lacks the prestige of the Prospex or Presage. Another factor in its popularity is the variety of styles and designs that are available.
5 Sports Field Collection
While the modern field watch is broadly used as an adventure watch or a sports watch, the core design codes come from its military heritage. Those core principles are instant legibility, accuracy and durability. There is very little room for extravagance in design as it could compromise a soldier in the field. Seiko’s 5 Sports Field Collection adhere to these principles with simple round cases, uncomplicated time and date displays and trusted automatic movements.
The SRPJ83K1 has a military desert sand dial with a 36.37mm stainless steel case, housing the 4R36 automatic movement. It’s also hyper accessible with a price of just £260.
5 Sports Diving
The diving iteration of the 5 Sports was the first in this sporty collection. It owes a lot, at least aesthetically, to the Rolex Submariner because of its retro styling, thick bezel and oversize circle indexes.
The ref. SRPK99K1 has a stainless steel case with a diameter of 42.5mm and 100m water resistance. That might seem like a low depth rating for a diving watch but considering the watch is only £340, it’s admissible.
5 Sports Flieger
At first glance, the 5 Sports Flieger bears a lot of similarities to the Field Collection, however that’s because pilot’s watches and field watches share a certain number of principles. On closer inspection the Flieger displays more information since pilots require utter timing precision when visually navigating. As such the 5 Sports Flieger has both an hour scale and a minute scale to minimise errors.
Pictured is the SRPJ11K1, a £290 watch with a 39.38mm diameter case steel case with a super hard black coating, giving it stealthy appearance. It’s powered by the 4R36 calibre. As cool and tactical as a bomber.
5 Sports Classic Sport
Offering a more refined and elegant interpretation of a sports watch is the new Classic Sport subcollection. It features a nicely rounded case with brushed lugs and a dial that is pleasingly retro and minimalist. It has an understated minute scale around the periphery, large bar hour markers with lume and a day-date window at 3 o’clock. The blocky shapes give it a strong 70s charm.
The reference SRPK87K1 has a dark blue dial and beige accents, emphasising the neo-vintage aspects of the design. It uses the calibre 4R36, a staple of the 5 Sports line.
