As much as we horology enthusiasts like to think we’re above superficial considerations when it comes to watches (finding joy in the mechanical precision of a good movement etc.) sometimes you just have to admit that when a watch is ugly, you’re not going to buy it.
First impressions are everything and with watches, the first thing you’re likely to notice is the dial. So we’ve photographed seven watches created using different techniques that go all out with their combination of unique dial textures, patterns and colours to make sure that your first impression is filled with wow-factor.
Grand Seiko ‘Shunbun’ Spring Cherry Blossom
There’s no way you can talk about stunning textured dials without kicking things off with Grand Seiko, the Japanese masters of nature inspired textures and intricate detail. The ‘Shunbun’ Spring Cherry Blossom is a spring drive model with a pale pink dial and a delicately engraved texture.
The pattern is a vibrant and seemingly random storm of lines forming little patches where they align in the same direction. Each of these patches is like a blossom petal of a cherry tree blowing in the wind. It’s paired with the beautifully sharp facets of the hands and hour markers.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 12.8mm thickness, titanium, pink cherry bloosom dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre 9R65, automatic, 30 jewels, 32,768 Hz frequency, 72h power reserve
Strap: Titanium bracelet
Price: £6,200
Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph
Describing the dial of the Glashütte Original Sixties Chronograph is an interesting challenge. It features a radial pattern embossed into its grey degradé gradient display. However, unlike traditional radial patterns such as sunray brushing, the Glashütte Original is not uniform, instead consisting of irregular splotches that help to exaggerate the gradient effect. Most degradé dials use a grainy texture to create a smoky appearance (fumé) and the result here is similar while remaining a dial unique to the brand.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 12.40mm thickness, stainless steel, grey-black dégradé effect dial
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Glashütte calibre 39-34, automatic, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: Blue synthetic fabric
Price: £8,100
Garrick S2 Deadbeat Seconds
Coming in from the top ropes with their traditional rose engine guilloché is the British watchmaker Garrick with the S2 Deadbeat Seconds. Guilloché is a decorative art in metalworking that has been used since the 18th century, in horology rose and straight line engines are capable of cutting dials with myriad patterns. Garrick’s watches are entirely bespoke so there are plenty of options for the pattern you choose for your wristwatch, making each a truly unique textured dial. Pictured here is a wavy pattern with furrows creating a fan-like splay.
Case/dial: 42mm diameter x 10mm thickness, stainless steel or 18k gold, guilloché dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Garrick calibre DB-G06, manual winding, 21 jewels, Garrick Trinity free-sprung balance, choice of pink gold, rhodium or black gold finishes, 45h power reserve
Strap: Handmade alligator, calf leather, buffalo or ostrich leather
Price: £22,800
Citizen Series 8 Automatic
While the case might have strong overtones of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver, the dial of the Citizen Series 8 Automatic is striking. It consists of a geometric mosaic-like pattern of hexagonal tiles, each with a three-dimensional texture radiating from an off-centre position. Tessellated together it creates the impression of shifting sand dunes, although that’s likely due to its golden sand colour as the actual inspiration is Sakura blossom.
Case/dial: 42.6mm diameter x 11.7mm thickness, stainless steel, copper pink dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Citizen calibre 9051, automatic, 24 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 42h power reserve
Strap: Stainless steel bracelet
Price: £1,095
William Wood Fire Watch
For a brand obsessed with firefighting, it was only a matter of time before William Wood released a fire motif wristwatch. They did so at the end of last year with the aptly named Fire Watch, the first half of the ‘Fire Extinguisher’ duo. It has a layered metallic shimmer dial with a flame motif over a horizontally brushed orange base, paired with orange hour markers and a seconds hand equipped with a fire hazard counterweight. It makes for an incredibly unique dial and striking appearance.
Case/dial: 41mm diameter x 15mm thickness, stainless steel, layered flame dial
Water resistance: 100m (10 bar)
Movement: Seiko calibre NH35, automatic, 24 jewels, 21,600 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 41h power reserve
Strap: Fire hose material or stainless steel bracelet
Price: £995
Edward Christopher Manta
As a watch with a unique textured dial designed to emulate guilloché, the Edward Christopher Manta has a really attractive display available in a handful of colours. Pictured here is the Sky Blue edition, which has a white-blue gradient matched by the woven line-work of the mesmerising pattern. It’s emphatically punctuated by oversize wedge hour markers and the partially skeletonised hands, all of which are coated with lume for good legibility in the dark. Which is important because it has a dive watch style display and internal rotating bezel, although the case is more in the style of an integrated strap sports watch.
Case/dial: 40mm diameter x 11.30mm thickness, brushed stainless steel, hydraulically stamped 3D kaleidoscope guilloché style pattern dial
Water resistance: 200m (20 bar)
Movement: Sellita calibre SW200-1, automatic, 26 jewels, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 38h power reserve
Strap: FKM vulcanised rubber
Price: £1,095
