Belhamel Contra Aqua 39, £399 (Pre-Order £319)

Belhamel started life creating bespoke rubber straps for the Seiko SKX collection but a successful Kickstarter in 2023 brought their first wristwatch to market this summer. It’s called the Contra Aqua 39 and it’s inspired by the same accessible tool watch vibe and practical price point as Seiko with their own unique flair. It has a 39mm diameter steel case with a 120-click unidirectional rotating bezel and ultra legible dial. With its 300m water resistance it actually outperforms many of Seiko’s divers. Inside is the Miyota 9039 automatic.

Available at Belhamel.

Héron Marinor Seastorm Black, £495

Héron have recently restocked their core collection timepieces including the Marinor Seastorm Black, a gorgeous dive watch in a 39mm diameter hardened steel case with 300m water resistance. The style, with a domed sapphire bezel and large, lumed hour markers draws inspiration from legendary dive watches of the 20th century, but at a much more accessible price point. Powering the watch is the Miyota 9039, one of the Japanese manufacture’s premium movements with a 42-hour power reserve.

Available at Heron.

Primitive Haus Timekeeper Type-A, $369 (approx. £280)

Finding what inspires you is always the foundation of a good microbrand and Primitive Haus are clear on where their inspirations lie. Influenced by the German minimalist movement spearheaded by Bauhaus, they aim to bring colourful watches to live that blend style and function seamlessly. Recently with the TimeKeeper Type-A they’ve been exploring fresh colours and designs such as fumé blue, vibrant purple and this gorgeous dimple dial variant that looks like freshly fallen snow. They house the Miyota 82S5 with 42-hour power reserve.

Available at Primitve Haus.

Dejager Explorer, £225

DeJager is a British watch design studio with close ties to South Africa as that’s where the brand’s founder grew up, witnessing the atrocities of Apartheid and segregation first hand. As such, a portion of all sales go to SOS Africa, a charity helping disadvantaged children in South Africa. Their watches, such as the Explorer combine accessible automatic movements with practical designs, including a 40mm case in stainless steel. The display is very legible with Arabic numerals and a small seconds subdial at six o’clock with a vibrant red hand.

Available at Dejager.

Wrist Classics Omega Speedmaster Ref. 105.003 Ghost Bezel, €10,900 (approx. £9,050)

A huge part of the allure of vintage watches, beyond the cool styles of bygone eras of design, are the deeply personal stories they tell. These stories are at the core of what Wrist Classics focus on as a vintage watch dealer. They only stock watches with unique hallmarks and distinct features that make them stand out in the crowd. For example, this Omega Speedmaster from 1964 with a beautiful ghost bezel. Or a 1956 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Honeycomb Dial.

Available at Wrist Classics.

Aera C-1 Cloud Chronograph

After a year of relative quiet, cult British tool watch brand Aera is back – and in serious style. For their first complication they’re picking the ever-practical chronograph and, in keeping with their minimalist utilitarian aesthetic, they’re sleek and sharp. On the one hand you have the blacked-out Shadow, with some red flashes across the chronograph hands; on the other the stunning Cloud, with a calming, blue-tinged neutral look. With only the bare minimum of numerals and indexes, these are a world away from the usual, overly technical chronos and I personally love them.

More details at Aera.

Gaga Laboratorio Labormatic Cinquanta

What do you get when you pair a legendary tattooist with an Italian singer songwriter with a healthy obsession with all things retro? Gaga Laboratorio. Mo Coppoletta and Alessandro Ristori’s shiny new Italian watch brand dives deep on jazz age cool, with discs for both hours – visible through a date-like window at 12 o’clock – and the central minutes, a genuinely unique dial and a case with some of the most sculptural lugs this side of £5,000. It’s a little crazy, sure, but this is a pair of flamboyant Italian collectors living la bella vita; what else would you expect?

More details at Gaga Laboratorio.

Awake Sơn Mài

Let’s not beat around the bush here, Awake’s gorgeous new collection is all about the dials, and for good reason. While they might look like enamel or guilloche, or a mix of the two, they’re actually made using the traditional Vietnamese art of Sơn Mài (hence the name, obviously) which involves applying fine layers of lacquer over silver leaf. The result is a depth of colour and texture that’s hard to find in a watch – and especially one this accessible. That’s the kicker: despite a dial akin to something one of the grand old maisons of watchmaking would dabble in, this automatic, La Joux-Perret-equipped beauty will set you back just over £1,500.

More details at Awake Watches.

Brew Metric Star Chrono

New York based, coffee-laced, and painfully cool, Brew have been going from strength to strength, especially since the streamlined Metric came into play. So, seeing them graduate to a chronograph was genuinely exciting before we saw the watch and is even more so now. It has all that lovely 1970s flavour, with a lightly roasted golden dial and bright, zesty red notes across hands and peripheral minute track. It’s like a modern Pogue, which given Seiko’s recent ‘reissue’ is probably the best thing we’re getting. It’s also as affordable as ever, with a Meca-quartz movement for that perfect blend of accuracy and reliability.

More details at Brew.

Paulin Modul D Automatic

I absolutely love the shape and style of Paulin’s painfully retro Modul collection, from their cushion cases to their Bauhaus-adjacent dials. The colours though have been perhaps a bit much. Now though, the Glaswegian brand is embracing wearability with black and white editions dubbed the Module D & E. They’re not boring by any stretch, with plenty of coloured indexes – orange and blue for the white edition, light blue and yellow for the black. It’s also worth noting that these are Paulin’s first lumed dials, with a host of differently glowing colours on each. It’s one of those cases where the release itself isn’t exactly groundbreaking, but it is something that needs to exist. And it’s about time it does.

More details at Paulin.

In the world of luxury watches, there are iconic designs that evoke instant admiration and timeless elegance. And then, there’s the Omega Ploprof. A watch so strikingly unconventional that it proudly earns the label of the “ugly duckling” of the watch world. Yet, despite its divisive design, or perhaps because of it, the Ploprof has managed to carve out a devoted fanbase since its debut in the early 1970s. How did such a polarising piece earn the love and loyalty of so many watch enthusiasts? Let’s dive into the history and unique charm of the Omega Ploprof 166.077.

A Purposeful Driven Design

The Ploprof, short for Plongeur Professionnel (French for “professional diver”), wasn’t designed to win beauty pageants. It was created to withstand the most extreme conditions of deep-sea diving. Omega developed the watch in collaboration with COMEX, the French commercial diving company and the legendary ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau. The objective was simple: create a robust timepiece that could handle the crushing pressures of the ocean’s depths. In 1971, Omega introduced the Ploprof 600, a watch capable of surviving depths of 600 meters (2,000 feet).

Its enormous stainless steel case, thick sapphire crystal and signature locking crown were all geared toward functionality, not fashion. The Ploprof’s monobloc case design ensured exceptional water resistance by eliminating the need for a screw-down case back. The crown’s placement on the left side further sets it apart. Offering protection from accidental bumps and preserving the watertight seal. When the Ploprof launched, it was priced at 795 Swiss francs, more than double the cost of a Rolex Submariner. Omega advertised it with the slogan, “When you take your life in your hands, you need a good watch on your wrist.”

Aesthetic Brutality

When it first hit the market, the Omega Ploprof 166.077’s looks were, to put it mildly, controversial. The asymmetric case and blocky design stood in stark contrast to the sleek, refined watches that Omega was best known for. Its bulky form, prominent crown guard, and unusual bezel locking mechanism added to the overall sense that this was a tool, not a fashion accessory. Yet, it’s precisely this “form follows function” approach that has won the Ploprof its loyal fans. For those who appreciate purposeful design and engineering over conventional beauty, the Ploprof is a symbol of uncompromising performance. The oversized bezel and massive case not only protect the movement but also provide a clear, readable dial even in the darkest depths of the ocean.

The Cult Appeal

Despite its initially lukewarm reception, the Ploprof has grown into a cult classic. Part of its appeal lies in its rarity. The original Ploprof 600 was only produced for a few years before being discontinued, making it a sought-after collector’s item. In 2009, Omega relaunched the Ploprof, this time rated to a staggering 1,200 meters. Bringing it into the modern era while retaining its original, unapologetically bold design. For many collectors, the Ploprof represents a refreshing departure from the delicate, minimalist aesthetics that dominate the luxury watch market. It’s a conversation piece, a statement of individuality, and a reminder that watches can be both tools and art. The love for the Ploprof isn’t about prettiness—it’s about appreciating the unapologetic boldness that Omega dared to pursue in creating one of the most extreme diving watches of its time.

An Unlikely Icon

In a world where slim, dressy watches often take centre stage, the Omega Ploprof has embraced its role as the industry’s lovable outsider. Its unique design and incredible functionality have made it an enduring symbol of Omega’s commitment to technical innovation. Whether you find it ugly or captivating, the Ploprof’s impact on watchmaking is undeniable. The Ploprof is not just a watch; it’s an icon for those who value function over form, innovation over convention and aren’t afraid to stand out in a sea of predictable designs.

This “ugly duckling” proves that beauty, as they say, is truly in the eye of the beholder. One of the most distinctive features of the Omega Ploprof 166.077 is its locking crown mechanism. Instead of a traditional screw-down crown, the Ploprof uses a push-button lock to secure the crown in place. The large, red button on the side of the case allows divers to release and adjust the crown when needed, providing additional security against water ingress. This mechanism, though odd-looking, ensured that the watch remained fully water-resistant to 600 meters (2,000 feet), which was groundbreaking for the time.

A Keeper For Sure

It defied convention, choosing practicality over polish, and in doing so, carved out its place as one of the most iconic tool watches ever made. The Ploprof isn’t just a dive watch—it’s a testament to Omega’s willingness to push the boundaries of both engineering and aesthetics. For those who seek more than just a pretty face, the Ploprof stands proud, embracing its legacy as a true diving legend.

As a proud owner of a vintage 1977 Omega  Ploprof 600, this watch truly stands out in my collection. Many vintage Ploprofs serviced by Omega have had their dials and hands replaced, making it increasingly challenging for enthusiasts seeking an authentic look to find examples with these original features. Fortunately, mine retains its original hands and dial, and it also came with an Omega Extract from the archives, confirming its origin and year of manufacture. Whether you love or loathe the Ploprof, there’s no denying its significance within Omega’s range, and it truly stands apart from anything else out there.

More details at Omega.

There has been a trend in recent years of brands revitalising legendary watches and turning them into modern editions. Watch brands, more than any other, like to keep us reminded of how old they are and the history that goes alongside the piece you just bought. For example, it’s hard to mention the word Omega without talking about the moon. These brands with a rich history have a substantial back catalogue to choose from and bringing back an icon often gets chins wagging within the community.

When it comes to paying homage to the watches from your past brands approach it slightly differently. Some look to recreate the icon in its true form, why mess with a classic? Others prefer to take design queues in a nod to history whilst updating the watch to modern standards. The point is there are different ways to approach reintroducing a legendary watch. We’ve selected 5 true legends to see how their modern counterparts stack up.

Vacheron Constantin 222

Vacheron Constantin 222 Ref. 11990 (1977)

The original Vacheron Constantin 222, released in 1977, surfaced around the same time as Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet launched their icons with the Nautilus (1976) and Royal Oak (1971). If you want to know where the 222 came from, it was to mark the 222nd year of Vacheron’s founding. I told you watch brands like to remind us of their history.

Much like the Nautilus and Royal Oak of the 1970s the 222 was a three hand watch with a date window. However, this wasn’t the only similarity. Fun fact but the original Nautilus, Royal Oak and 222 all shared the same base movement, an ultra-thin Jaeger-LeCoultre 920, which Vacheron modified.

One of the reasons the original 222 has become so desirable today is its exclusivity. If records are to be believed, only around 700 222’s in 37mm were produced in the eight years it was in production. It was also the first sports watch from Vacheron and led on to the now iconic Overseas, which only adds to its historical importance.

Vacheron Constantin 222 line up displayed in an advert (1960s)

In a fitting piece of numerical symmetry in 2022 Vacheron introduced a new 222 Historique edition. The first surprise was Vacheron released the new 222 in solid yellow gold at a time when steel sports watches were flying off the shelves quicker than they could be made.

This updated version is a true recreation, Vacheron have stuck almost wholeheartedly to the original design. They resisted the temptation to increase the case size, nowadays 40mm would be about par for the course. On the dial you have to look very closely to spot any changes at all. The only difference of note is the position of the date window, on the modern version it’s been moved inwards to allow the minute markers to continue uninterrupted. Whereas, the original date window intercepted the minute track. In all, this change constitutes moving the date window somewhere around 1mm

The updated Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 ref. 4200H/222J-B935

The big change in the 222 is the movement. Vacheron Constaintin have shunned the legendary watch’s JLC core in favour of a more modern Vacheron calibre 2455/2. Paired with the new movement is an open case back displaying the 18k yellow gold rotor. After 45 years Vacheron might be forgiven for providing an updated movement with modern manufacturing, materials and reliability.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC Ingenieur SL ref. 1832 (1976)

Our second legendary vintage watch comes courtesy of Gerald Genta’s 1976 design IWC Ingenieur SL. Being a Genta design it noticeably shares many elements with the Nautilus and Royal Oak. Despite the Ingenieur SL being overshadowed by these other creations over time it became seen as the trendy little brother, offering collectors a more affordable price point for a watch from the legendary designer.

On release the Ingenieur SL was vastly different from the first Ingenieur of the 1950s. Not only did the SL introduce bolt holes to the bezel but the most interesting part of the design was the appearance of either a checkerboard or graph paper style textured dial. Housed in a 38mm case the original Ingenieur SL would likely have been quite the hit in today’s market.

The updated IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 ref. IW328901

By 1984 the first generation Genta designed Ingenieur was discontinued. Then, in March 2023, at Watches & Wonders, IWC released the Ingenieur Automatic 40. At its launch IWC revealed their museum had managed to track down Gerald Genta’s original drawings. Drawings which were thought to have been lost. Now armed with the originals the IWC design team could set to work recreating a modern sports watch inspired by the original workings.

Today’s Ingenieur is without question a modern interpretation, not a recreation. Firstly, you’ll notice crown guards on the 2023 model, which were not present on the original legendary watch. This adds to another key change which is the case size, the new model comes in 40mm only. If we are being picky the larger case shape takes on a more angular aesthetic than the 1976 version. Where the SL was noted for its rounded structure, the end links on the case and the centre links of the bracelet were more rounded than rectangular. The new Ingenieur sports a more aggressive case with polished lines giving a sharp, more defined aesthetic.

The updated IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in white and black dial configurations

Across the rest of the watch the Genta-isms are in full view. The bolt holes dotted across the circular flat topped bezel remain unchanged and the dial reinterprets the checkerboard effect from the SL with great success. The alternating lined and dotted squares are a distinctive look and unique to the Ingenieur. To leave them out would have been a crime.

Tag Heuer Autavia Chronograph

Tag Heuer Autavia Dashboard Timer (1933)

This legendary vintage watch actually started life not as a watch at all but as a lap timer affixed to the dashboard of racing cars. In 1962 Jack Heuer introduced the Autavia wristwatch as a collection of racing inspired chronographs. The first edition of the watch was a favourite among celebs and the public for its highly legible dial. In the 1960s racing legends from Jacky Ickx and Emerson Fittipaldi to Gilles Villeneuve were ambassadors for the collection. Today the Autavia represents an iconic racing chrono from a brand more synonymous with motor racing than any other.

Heuer Autavia ref. 2446 (1692), image credit: Heuer Price Guide

The Autavia was characterised by a ‘reverse panda’ configuration dial which has become a favourite among chronographs even today. However, unlike many modern chronographs which deploy tachymeters and text across the bezel, the Autavia used numeric hour markers for a no-nonsense look. Over the years Tag Heuer did get more creative. A GMT version followed and colour was introduced with blue and red bezels, orange hands and blue dial accents. Yet, it’s the first edition Autavia, which ceased production in 1969, that’s the true icon.

In 2017 Tag Heuer celebrated the 55th anniversary of the Autavia with a reedition of the original albeit with some updates. The 2017 edition maintains the original aesthetic, the black dial is punctuated by white subdials and a black bezel was as plain as could be with roman numeral hour markers. Tag even went as far as colouring the tips of hour markers and lume on the hands in a beige patina effect colour in order to apply a vintage look.

Tag updated Heuer Autavia, ref. CBE2116

In truth the reissue only had two major changes to differ it from the original. Firstly, two of the subdials had been swapped around. The 1962 Autavia placed hours at 6 o’clock and minutes and 9 o’clock, by 2017 these dials had swapped positions. This isn’t a major change and certainly doesn’t detract from the look of the watch but seeing as we are being picky it’s worth pointing out.

The other change is harder to ignore. In 2017 Tag Heuer added a date window on to the 6 o’clock subdial. This was a new feature of the updated automatic Heuer 02 calibre which powered the reissue. After 55 years bringing the movement to modern standards is a welcome upgrade but the date seems unnecessary. Why go to such lengths as to recreate a patina effect on parts of the dial only to plant a date window in the middle?

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox (1960’s)

Jaeger-LeCoultre, regularly referred to as ‘the watchmakers watchmaker’, always kept several crucial innovations for their own brand. In the 1950s they created the legendary vintage Memovox watch which, with some linguistic gymnastics, means ‘the voice of memory’ in Latin. The Memovox movement, Calibre 489, cleverly separated the power reserve and time keeping elements from the alarm component. In practical terms this meant the Memovox required two crowns. One for winding and setting the watch, the other for setting the alarm function.

Jaeger LeCoutlre Polaris Memovox ref. E859 (1965), image credit: Christie’s

At first glance the 1950s Memovox has the appearance of a ‘pie pan’ style dial. The pie pan design is one most commonly found on vintage Omegas and gets its name due to an inner ring on the dial which makes it look like a pie dish you’d use for cooking. On the Memovox the rotating inner ring is used to set your alarm. You use the second crown to rotate a small triangle marker to point at the time when you need the alarm to sound.

The Memovox was a big hit when it was first released in dress watch format with a leather strap. Such was the success that JLC would later release a Memovox Deep Sea Dive watch in 1959 in order to make the watch accessible to a wider audience. This Memovox diver would go on to be rebranded Polaris in the early 1960s.

The Polaris Memovox was starting to radically differ from the original. This new dive watch now contained three crowns. The third crown was used to rotate the bezel which sat under the crystal so the wearer could time dives. This wasn’t the only new feature of the Polaris, in the case back were 16 holes which allowed for greater sound amplification and mean’t the alarm could be heard even under water.

The current Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox ref. Q903818J

Fast forward to today and this is how we come to know the Memovox, as a subset of the Polaris and now the Master Control collections. After starting out life as a stand alone model the Memovox has now been relegated to a subsection of the catalogue.

In 2018 JLC reintroduced the Polaris range in full. The launch of the updated collection contained a variety of different models one of which was a reintroduction of the Polaris Memovox. The current Polaris Memovox, like the Ingenieur, is a nod to the original rather than a recreation. It shares the same alarm functionality and 3 crown design with rotating alarm disk and internal dive bezel but that’s about where the similarities stop. The dial design and case shape have all been radically modernised to create a future proof sports watch. The larger hour markers are certainly more practical and legible than the original and there’s now no need for holes on the caseback to amplify sound.

Overall, the Memovox is a hard one to interpret. This legendary watch was a big success in the 60s yet today the Polaris Memovox hasn’t reached the same heights of other steel sports models on the market. Should JLC revert back to the first ever Memovox pre-Polaris? It’s hard to tell if that would be any more appealing in today’s market.

Rolex Daytona

Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona Ref. 6239, image credit: Phillips

So far we’ve been referencing the various commercial successes of these watches when they first launched. And you might think the Daytona, one of the most sought after watches of today, has been a triumphant success from the start. It’s not the case. It didn’t become a legendary vintage watch until much later when the influence of Paul Newman pushed it into the spotlight.

The iconic ‘Paul Newman’, reference 6239, was the first chronograph to bear the name Daytona and was offered in two configurations. A black dial with white subdials or with the colours reversed fondly known as the ‘panda’. Other key features of the 6239 include a red minute track on the outer edge of the dial, square box markers on the subdials and a steel bezel. The 6239 was also the first reference to carry a tachymeter on the bezel rather than printed on the dial. In many ways the 6239 has fed the design of all modern Daytonas.

The udpated Rolex Daytona ‘Le Mans’ ref. 126500LN

In general, Rolex aren’t ones for re-issues or re-releases. They honour their history by delivering updated models that blend the past with cutting edge modern design and materials. The modern Daytona is no exception. Look across the line up and no existing model in the stable shares a true likeness to the ‘Paul Newman’. Almost every aspect of the 6239 has been updated over the years.

The steel Daytona models are awash with new materials. Most obvious is the new ceramic bezel, which is black rather than silver and the movement has had a complete overhaul as well. The dial configurations still include black and white with the colours being inverted for the subdials, though only on the chapter rings not the whole subdial. The case has taken on new shapes and proportions with big changes to the crown and pushers. The modern steel Daytona now comes with crown guards and the pushers have a screw down locking function to stop them being pushed accidentally and to improve water resistance. The red track on the dial has been removed and the only red is the text ‘Daytona’ printed in the centre of the dial.

Rolex Daytona ref. 126509

Perhaps the closest in look to the original Daytona from the current line-up is the white gold variant ref. 126509. With the white gold bezel it replicates the all steel look of the 6239 and the dial is available with either a true panda or reverse panda configuration with solid colour subdials.

Looking at the Daytona through the ages is like looking at an evolution chart, you can see where it all started but the modern iteration has evolved a long way over 60 years. Is this because Rolex strives to be at the front of the watch industry setting the path for the future? Or is it because the might not be able to do justice to one of the most legendary watches of all time? Either way it would be fun to see them try.

The last couple of years haven’t been the best for investing in watches. Some of the biggest brands and models have been in a bit of a slump that’s yet to recover. But that, of course, is only for investors. For collectors on the other hand, it’s a great time to be a watch lover.

Gone are the hundreds of watch flippers out to make a quick buck, offering popular yet uninteresting watches for many times their retail price. Instead, it’s a collectors’ market. By that, we mean that there are some seriously cool watches you can get hold of for far less than you might have before. As the UK’s premier marketplace for fine watches, Watch Collecting knows a thing or two about that.

Over the past few months, the online platform has sold an incredible spread of watches. The choice ranges from undervalued bargains that should go for a lot more to insanely high-end pieces that just don’t crop up often on the open market. To give you just a snapshot of the watches passing through Watch Collecting, we’ve selected some of the most interesting that have been sold in recent weeks. That of course means that these exact pieces are no longer available but keep your eyes open. This isn’t the first time they’ve cropped up and it won’t be the last.

Rolex Cellini, £1,499 (1990)

Even after being discontinued, the Rolex Cellini doesn’t get nearly as much love as it should. It’s a perfect little dress watch and the unusual rectangular version here, with its President-adjacent gold-on-gold look, is a lovely counterpoint to modern Rolex. It’s pure minimalism except for the quirky minute markers notched directly into the bezel. It just goes to show the disproportionate spotlight that’s shone on Rolex’s steel sports models. A rare vintage Rolex for £1,499? On paper that seems insane. On Watch Collecting, it’s the norm for the underappreciated Cellini.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Platinum Number One, £14,500 (2000s)

As soon as you head off the beaten path of Royal Oaks, Daytonas, and Nautili, you’ll be surprised at the value you can get in pre-owned watches. Reversible case in point, a platinum watch with a magnificently skeletonised dial from one of the most long-standing maisons in Swiss watchmaking – for less than £15,000. Not only was this Reverso Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first series production in platinum, but it was also limited to 500 pieces, making this both a rarity and an important watch for the brand. Given how many collectors are sleeping on older JLC models right now, this was a fantastic buy – and there’s more where that came from.

Cartier Crash Skeleton, £85,000 (2017)

In recent years the asymmetrical Crash has become a touchstone among the artier of horological aficionados; yet another case shaped feather the Parisian tour de force has in their well-heeled cap. These days that makes it a bit of an auction regular, though rarely with quite the cache of the skeleton version. The way that the skeletonised bridges curve with the case is downright magnificent, even by Cartier standards and makes this model something of a stand-out among Crash references.

Richard Mille RM67-01, £120,000 (2021)

It’s hard to call any Richard Mille well- priced given the eye-watering numbers  the watchmaker tends to pull in, but the RM67-01 here is a genuinely fascinating piece. Most watches of this calibre either go to auction or pass between private sellers and seeing it here is a testament to Watch Collecting as a platform. Then there’s the watch itself, which is a beauty. Defined by its diamond-set case, it happens to be one of Richard Mille’s slimmest (it was the thinnest of all when introduced in 2016). It’s an exemplary Richard Mille and netted the seller £120,000. I’m sure the buyer agrees that it was worth every penny.

Rolex Daytona ‘Le Mans’, £133,000 (2024)

Sure, the market’s a little depressed, but that was never going to stop collectors jumping on the Daytona wherever it pops up. That’s especially true of the 2024 ‘Le Mans’, a special edition tribute to the famous endurance race, created in honour of the 2024 competition in the (almost) spitting image of the annual winners’ watch. It has all the modern bells and whistles – a ceramic tachymeter scale, a calibre 4132 Rolex movement, and a full white gold case. Understandably, very few of these are ever sold. Not only are they rare, but if there’s one in your collection, it’s likely never leaving. It achieved a sky-high price tag, but not nearly as much as it would have a few years ago.

More details at Watch Collecting.

Scandinavia is a fascinating part of the world, wild and untamed and yet home to some of the most stylish and well regarded designers of all time. It’s a unique melting pot of rugged Nordic influences and classy minimalism that you won’t find anywhere else. What’s more, all of these diverse elements find a wonderful place in horology – even though it’s not quite so well known as the watchmaking regions of Germany or France. From subtle dress watches, daily beaters and practical tool watches, you can find them all from across Denmark, Sweden, Norway and Finland. So without further ado, here are some of our favourite Scandinavian watch brands that you should know about.

Von Doren

Von Doren Il Tempo Gigante Automatisk Kronograf

From accessible flashes of summer ready colour to chunky, exceptional chronographs, Von Doren runs the full gamut of watches. As is the case with many a modern watch brand, founder Øyvind VonDoren Asbjørnsen was originally inspired by an heirloom Swiss timepiece handed down from his father. Far from an homage brand however, there’s something decidedly Norwegian about Von Doren, from their Art Nouveau inspirations to the stories their watches tell.

While the Runde is a handsome, colourful watch, for our money the ultra-cool, ultra-macho and ultra-retro Il Tempo Gigante is Von Doren’s opus. Inspired by Norwegian stop-motion film, 1975’s The Pinchcliffe Grand Prix, it’s every bit the throwback racing chronograph in a funky colourway of brown, black and yellow. It’s not your typical streamlined Scandi chic watch for sure, but it’s very much something only Von Doren could build.

More details at Von Doren.

GoS Watches

GoS Watches Sarek Rissa No1

Think of typical Scandinavian landscapes, the tundra, the glaciers, the Northern Lights, and you’ll see precisely where GoS Watches get their unique aesthetic. The Swedish brand is the brainchild of master watchmaker Patrick Sjögren, and smith and knifemaker Johan Gustafsson, who decided to pool their skills for a deeply Scandinavian brand.

From Gustafsson comes the copious use of Damascus steel across cases and some dials – albeit supplied these days by bladesmith Conny Persson; from Sjögren the kind of immaculate, nature-inspired finishing that would make Grand Seiko fans hot under the collar. The Norrsken, with its gorgeous wavy dial and even more gorgeous colours, is about as beautiful a Nordic watch as you can find.

More details at GoS.

Bravur Watches

Bravur Grand Tour La Corsa Rosa IV

There has always been some cross-over between cycling and watches, but no brand has encapsulated cycling culture quite as succinctly as Sweden’s Bravur Watches. After all, what watchmaker also produces a snappy line of cycling clothes? But while the jerseys and bib shorts are pared-back in a performance-oriented way, the watches are not.

Case in point, the Grand Tour La Corsa Rosa IV. A fabulous mix of tarmac grey (with a similarly inspired texture to it) and various shades of pink ranging from pale to hot, the watch is an homage to the Maglia Rosa, the leader’s jersey in the Giro d’Italia. It’s a showstopper, but there are also more subtle touches that show Bravur’s love of the sport. Look at the 13 on the minute track, for example. Not only would it not normally be there, but it’s upside-down, a reference to how the number 13 rider wears it to ward off bad luck. See? Nobody does cycling and watches like Bravur.

More details at Bravur.

Sarpaneva

Sarpaneva Supermoon

Sarpaneva’s angry moon looking like it’s been pulled right out of Georges Méliès’ imagination has become an icon of independent watchmaking. It’s just one part of the brand’s modern approach to high watchmaking, but it’s by far the most visible, especially when combined with the intensely skeletonised dials, unique case shapes and playful approach to lume. There’s a lot going on and that moon is the lynchpin of it all.

The brand’s Supermoon, as the name suggests, amps that up to the next level. The twin moon display at six o’clock has more character than most watchmakers can fit on an entire dial, a tribute to the brand’s earlier 2008 Korona K3. Apparently, this specific moon is an ode to Finnish spirit, though from personal experience most Finns I’ve met have been far, far happier than this melancholic orb. It is however everything Sarpaneva stands for.

More details at Sarpaneva.

REC Watches

REC Watches The Habu Limited Edition

Danish brand REC have carved out a historical niche for themselves with one spectacular inclusion: pieces of actual historical machines. If that sounds familiar, it’s something the wider watch industry has embraced in recent years but none to quite the same extent as REC. Their limited collection includes salvaged metal from cars, motorbikes, aircraft and pretty much anything that can move on its own steam.

We’re not just talking vintage here, either. The Habu, REC’s latest, is made from an SR-71 Blackbird, a legendary long-range reconnaissance aircraft that’s as much space craft as plane. The watch dial is made from the aircraft’s inner engine nacelle exhaust ejectors – and if you know what those are, REC as a brand probably get you very excited. Set in a titanium case inspired by the Blackbird’s aerodynamic form, it’s a statement watch in more ways than one.

More details at REC.

JS Watch Company

JS Watch Company 101 38mm

Hailing from Reykjavik and priding themselves on being one of the smallest watchmakers around, JS Watch Company nonetheless count the likes of Mads Mikkelsen, Ben Stiller, Ed Sheeran and Jude Law among their fans. That’s a big following for a small Icelandic watchmaker, but JS Watch Company offer the kind of watches that have purists fawning, with coin-edge bezels and the overwhelming choice of black or white dials.

Movements are Swiss workhorse numbers finished to the highest standards, which while a bit of a departure from those classical aesthetics, means they’re more affordable than they look. Take the 101 38mm as an example. The Goldilocks sizing, clean numerals (Roman or Arabic) and Breguet hands look like absolute stunners, with a price tag well under the £2,000 mark. With three generations of watchmaking heritage channelled into each and every watch, that’s pretty impressive.

More details at JS Watch Company.

Arcanaut

Arcanaut Fordite Nebulous Eye

Doing weird things with weird materials is the name of the game at Arcanaut. The Denmark-based but pan-Scandinavian brand’s collections embrace intriguing composites and colourful fordite (made from car industry paint run-off) dials, colours aplenty and a tongue-in-cheek approach to high-end watchmaking.

The Experimental Collection lives up to its name, with incredible lume dials and casebacks. The Bonehead, as an example, involves injecting a chunk of aluminium foam used in the aerospace industry with resin, then attaching the result to a solid block of lume. This isn’t experimental in the structured, lab-based sense but in the ‘just do it and see what works’ approach. And it’s hard not to love Arcanaut for that.

More details at Arcanaut.

Micromilspec

Micromilspec Milgraph

Until recently you would have had a hard time coming across a Micromilspec watch; they were the purview of military squadrons and regiments, the sort that you’d only see with black bars scrawled across their names. Now however, the brand is opening up a bit more with production watches available to civilians.

That watch is, specifically, the Milgraph. Channelling the brand’s years of custom military watches into one piece, its multifaceted design, quirky scales of various shapes and sizes, and a lightweight titanium case all combine to create a unique looking piece with a serious specs sheet. It’s a good sign of things to come and I’m looking forward to seeing what the Oslo-based brand does next.

More details at Micromilspec.

Bruvik

Bruvik Fjord N2.0

There are more integrated bracelet sports watches these days than ever before – including when they were at their initial height in the 1970s – so it takes a solid design for one to really stand out. Bruvik has three. If you want something a bit more elegant, there’s the Senja with it’s cool tessellating bezel. If you want a no-holds-barred twist on what the Bulgari Octo’s putting down, there’s the Fjord N2.0, which combines a GMT with a funky spider web/spacetime pattern across the dial.

Then there’s the Arctic Ocean, which yes, uses a strap, but one that’s about as integrated into the case as you can get. The latest edition also reveals the inner workings of the automatic movement, bordered by scales you’d expect to see on instrument panels as much as a watch. Of the three, I’m all about the Senja, but honestly, there’s something for everyone here.

More details at Bruvik.

Båge & Söner

Båge & Söner Brew Baby

Yes, these are alarm clocks and yes, I’m aware that an alarm clock is not a watch. But bear with me on this because not only are they small, portable timekeepers, but Båge & Söner borrow plenty from the world of actual horology. The dial looks like its ripped straight from a colourful dress watch, and the rounded corners of the square shape give the whole thing the kind of retro good looks that deserves a place next to your bed.

The Brew Baby variation is particularly cool, a combination of warm browns and golds that has the kind of sepia-tinted nostalgia of a valve amp. Oh, and speaking of audio, Båge & Söner’s alarm clocks start off quiet and ramp up, so no horrifically rude awakenings.

More details at Båge & Söner.

Sjöö Sandström

Sjöö Sandström Landsort 459m

No-nonsense cool is the name of the game with a brand I’m always going to try and avoid pronouncing out loud. They hit that sweet spot of quality and accessibility that make one of these streamlined flashes of Scandi design a flawless everyday wearer. The Royal collection – and the upper end Royal Capital version – offers the kind of versatility that means you don’t need to puzzle out what watch to strap on for the day.

That all said, there are some more specialist pieces in Sjöö Sandström’s line-up. The UTC Skydiver does what it says on the tin, offering an ani-digi display fit for the literal jet-set. My favourite outlier however is the Landsort 459m. Named after the Landsort deep and sharing a name with an idyllic Swedish island, its charming asymmetrical silhouette makes it fall into the realms of a much more wearable Ploprof, with plenty of water resistance to boot. If you’re wondering why 459, that’s the deepest ravine in the Baltic sea. If you need anything more than that, you’re braver than I.

More details at Sjöö Sandström.

Halda

Halda Race Pilot

While they have since created the ultra-classical Henning XO, a 40mm solid gold, pocket watch-inspired slice of haute horological finishing, I’d argue that it’s a bit of an outlier. That’s because the rest of their collection riffs off the same concept: a smartwatch paired with an analogue watch in a swap-in-swap-out outer case. Traditional it is not. Dubbed the Race Pilot – or Trackmaster/Space Discovery depending on which variation you opt for – the watch includes both a mechanical module in various levels of ultra-modern performance looks and what is essentially a racing computer.

Fittingly for a racing watch, the mechanical movement is from Zenith, while the smart module will track all your stats on the track. In an era of redundant ‘racing’ chronographs, this might be the only real racing watch around. It also very much looks the part, and I can’t understate how satisfying the modules are to pop in and pop out. It’s overengineered and I love it.

More details at Halda.

Watch auctions for charitable causes aren’t a new concept but one of the trends that has grown significantly over the last few years is the idea of the unique piece auction. Started by Only Watch, there are now a handful of auctions that see brands create distinct and unique watches specially for the occasion. Other examples of such auctions include last year’s EveryWatch focussing on British brands and the TimeForArt Auction, organised by the Swiss Institute in partnership with Phillips auction house. Let’s take a look at every watch up for grabs in the 2024 edition of TimeForArt ahead of the December 7^th sale.

However, before we jump into the watches, there’s a few details to go over. Firstly, what is the Swiss Institute? While it may have ‘Swiss’ in the name, it’s actually a New York based contemporary art non-profit organisation supporting a wide range of artists. It’s this goal that the TimeForArt auction supports. As part of the event, the Swiss Institute implemented the theme Artists for Artists and encouraged participating watch brands to collaborate with artists for their unique piece watches. Additionally, at time of writing not every watch has been fully revealed so you will find some teaser images that have been supplied instead.

Beaucroft Seeker 37mm, £425

Since 2020, Beaucroft has created classic mechanical watches with a fresh modern flair from the heart of Cambridge. The Seeker 37mm exemplifies this, offering bold colours and striking design details. Fully hand assembled and regulated in Great Britain, it blends traditional timekeeping techniques with modern watch design styling. Beaucroft brings the best of the old and new worlds together, creating both signature and bespoke watches that are affordably priced and beautifully finished.

Available at Beaucroft.

Primitive Haus TimeKeeper Type-A, $369 (approx. £280)

Finding what inspires you is always the foundation of a good microbrand, and Primitive Haus are clear on where their inspirations lie. Influenced by the German minimalist movement spearheaded by Bauhaus, they aim to bring colourful watches to life, blending style and function seamlessly. Recently with the TimeKeeper Type-A they’ve been exploring fresh colours and designs, such as fumé blue, vibrant purple and this gorgeous dimple dial variant that looks like freshly fallen snow. They house the Miyota 82S5 with a 42-hour power reserve.

Available at Primitive Haus.

Héron Marinor Seastorm Black, £495

Héron have recently restocked their core collection timepieces, including the Marinor Seastorm Black, a gorgeous dive watch with a 39mm diameter hardened steel case and 300m water resistance. The style, with a domed sapphire bezel and large, lumed hour markers draws inspiration from legendary dive watches of the 20th century, but at a much more accessible price point. Powering the watch is the Miyota 9039, one of the Japanese manufacturer’s premium movements with a 42-hour power reserve.

Available at Héron Watches.

Vesuviate Attivo-Duplex, $545 (approx. £420)

Vesuviate’s name is a reference to the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, one of the most famous volcanoes in history. The modification of the volcano’s name into a verb, vesuviate, plays on the fact that the brand’s signature manufacturing technique is thermochemical surface treatment, which uses heat-related chemical reactions to give their steel an ultra-hard surface. The Attivo-Duplex uses this hardened steel in its 39mm x 46.2mm x 11.5mm case, which has a retro TV shape. The display features two independent time displays powered by separate movements, both of which are ultra-slim Peacock SL-7020s with 36-hour power reserves.

Available at Vesuviate.

DeJager Explorer, £225

DeJager blends timeless British design with their African adventurous roots resulting in classic styles for everyday and special occasion wear. No matter when you choose to wear your DeJager watch, you will be wearing your social and cultural impact on your wrist. DeJager Watches is proud to partner with SOS Africa helping disadvantaged South Africans get a great education. Every watch purchased triggers a donation to SOS Africa’s vital work on the ground. The Explorer ties a rustic brown leather strap with a modern blue face, aircraft propeller hands and a deep red seconds hand.

Available at DeJager.

Engine turning doesn’t sound as sexy as the evocative French word guilloché, even if it is disturbingly similar to guillotine. The term stems from the French word guillocher, which means engraving surfaces with repetitive patterns. From the start, guilloché found its way into watchmaking as a pocket watch case adornment as early as the 17th century. As far as we know, the earliest example was a timepiece with an engine-turned case signed by Pierre Duhamel in Geneva in 1680 and today there are many, many styles of guilloché to explore.

What we now know as guilloché is also visible in jewellery, the famed Imperial eggs by Fabergè, trays and other decorative items. Different patterns and movement decorations, like perlage with overlapping circles, are not cut into the metal and are more akin to small-area polishing. All guilloché is stamped or hand-turned on a rose engine, or a straight-line engine that creates geometrics like Clous de Paris (hobnail), sunburst and basketweave. Most guilloché patterns are seen on the dial side of watches. But some occasionally appear on bridgework, and you’ll find many variants on both collectable pens and vintage lighters.

Straight-Line

This style of guilloché does what it says on the tin, offering a linear, sometimes pinstripe look of formality to a dial. In 2024 the small-scale production version of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in rose gold gives a perfect example of the genre. The dial surface is in solid rose gold as the case, decorated with parallel vertical lines. Straight line, or en ligne, guilloché is beautiful on its own, but here comes across as a sartorial contrast to the abundance of curves, framed in the unusual case by a distinct fluted pattern above the moustache-shaped tourbillon scene at six o’clock.

Basket Weave

As you will have figured out by now, the terms for different guilloché patterns might have original French names that evoke memories of a bygone age, but are all literal descriptions of their appearance, like basket weave. This is another type of straight-line guilloché with minuscule criss-cross patterns that brands like Voutilainen and Breguet use to great effect. As with any type of guilloché, it can be used to decorate an entire dial or, in the case of Breguet’s Classique 7137 Moon Power Reserve, it can be combined with other patterns to emphasise a sub-dial or power reserve with its light-catching properties.

Wave

As a more complex and organic pattern, the wave style of guilloché can be large or small in scale and perhaps finds its most literal interpretation once again in Breguet’s dial work. The sharp-pointed undulating shapes are well known from the brand’s Marine collection, contrasting to the modern case design. They work to bring life to a traditional dial encircled by a circular brushed chapter ring and add to the aquatic theme of the series.

Moiré

The rose engine-cut moiré pattern is small in scale and creates a decoration which might look like a sunburst finish from a distance. It produces a vibrant background and is used to great effect by Chinese watchmaker Atelier Wen, often in a non-watch context. Many watch collectors are pen lovers, and you’ll frequently find guilloché decoration on fountain pens. The Italian brand Grifos specialise in solid 925 silver pens, often boasting a matching moiré-decorated cap and body.

Sunburst

These days, this term is mostly used for brushed, lacquered dials that have a distinctly colour-shifting reflective quality, but it is also a type of straight-line guilloché. As a particularly vibrant example, Laurent Ferrier produced a limited version of their Classic 40mm in platinum with a vividly cut 18K white gold dial. In this example, the hand-decorated dial alternates broad and thin rays emanating from the centre, making for a strong monochrome play between light and shadow.

Écailles De Poisson

Image credit: tickingaway

Yet another fanciful French term, this time signifying a symmetrical overlapping pattern of shapes that resemble fish scales. A striking example is found in the work that dial master Kari Voutilainen has done, like the Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire. Only four examples were made, offering a glamorous textbook example of the genre on an outer ring. Its inner dial has a depth-inducing scaled-down version of the same fluid pattern, adding to the patterned splendour.

Clous De Paris

We opt for the French-language version here, Clous de Paris, as hobnail sounds a bit pedestrian. It comes either stamped or cut from a straight-line lathe and is instantly recognisable from the dial of the G-P Laureato, with its acutely pointed pyramid pattern. This style of guilloché is also unusually found on some movements, which includes the bridgework of the new Biver Automatique, a watch we were impressed with this year.

Tapisserie

The most recognisable of all guilloché are the raised flat-topped squares in the geometrical Tapisserie pattern. It is a more modern take on straight-line guilloché and is not always recognised as such because of it. But combined with an octagonal bezel, the grail-tastic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is instantly recognisable, just like its beefier brother, the Offshore.

Flinqué

The Flinqué technique often combines spectacularly hypnotic patterns with lacquering over its engraved or stamped pattern. A stunning example is found in the Czapek Genève model ‘Quai des Bergues’. A centred concentric pattern follows the shape of the seconds and date registers at 4:30 and 7:30 on the dial, creating an intense depth to what is already an accomplished dial. To accomplish this, diamond-like shapes are cut in curving overlapping shapes on a rose engine lathe.

Barleycorn

Like many guilloché styles, the shapes that create this pattern do not need explanation. The grain-like shapes are usually small in scale and stamped, or engine-turned in a vertically oriented and arrow-like pattern. It brings with it an understated  sophistication and can be found on more daily-wear pieces like the Longines Master Collection, among many others. Here it creates a more dynamic surface, which looks silver-lacquered until serving up its intricacies at close quarters.

Zealandic Iceborne

Microbrands have been killing the textured dial game recently, inspired (one assumes) by the nature-obsessed success of certain Japanese watchmakers but on a much smaller and less artisan scale. Case in point, Zealandic. This isn’t their first attempt at the Iceborne; their previous Kickstarter didn’t quite make it to their goal.

But after revisiting the design (and changing supplier) they’re back and the new Iceborne with its absolutely gorgeous light blue dial looks like a winner. It’s every bit the field watch, 39mm of stainless steel with the workhorse Miyota 9039 automatic movement, crowned with a glacial dial inspired by New Zealand’s Lake Pukaki. Yes, it’s a fun name to say. Priced just shy of $500 for now, it’s a tool watch yes, but one with some serious style.

More details at Zealandic.

Nuun Official Bora Bora Mai Tai

The long days of summer are pretty much over, but that doesn’t mean you can’t reminisce about those sun-drenched, poolside times, especially when it comes in the form of Nuun Official’s cocktail-laced new colour. The lightweight White Resin Carbon X case still opts for the brand’s Nautilus homage case shape, but that orange gradient, going light at the top to dark at the bottom, is something that Patek Philippe would never touch.

It’s far too fun. It’s also built for the poolside, with 100m water resistance and a chunky, dial- matched rubber strap for cooling off in the heat – though Scuba diving might be beyond it. Backed by a quartz Miyota Cal.0S21 chronograph, it might be the perfect watch for a bit of upcoming winter sun.

More details at NUUN.

MECEXP MS1001

Where to start with this one? More an engineering project than a mainstream timepiece, MECEXP’s debut is a CNC driven, lithium battery powered watch the likes of  which Urwerk fans will salivate over. Self- described as a ‘linear flyback’ (retrograde may  be closer to the mark), the two indicators move up the precisely engineered columns then flick right back down to the start.

It’s inventive, dynamic and a little bit nuts. Hell, even the crown isn’t a crown in the traditional sense as it uses a sensor and chip to detect the inputs so that there’s no physical interaction with the, for want of a better word, movement. Oh, and the whole thing is lit by LEDS because by this point, why not?

More details at MECEXP.

Oceaneva OceanTrek GMT

After plumbing the depths (quite literally) of what an accessible dive watch can do with the kind of value that puts the rest of the industry to shame, Oceaneva are testing new waters. The OceanTrek is a whole timezone away from what the brand has done before, a lovely, pared-back, semi-dress watch pairing Roman numerals with a 24-hour GMT indicator towards the middle.

At 42mm it’s still not small, but it’s slimmer and much more elegant than a diver, especially with the host of new, sunray-brushed dial colours. The OceanTrek still lives up to its name with 200m water resistance and a slight tool watch flavour, but between the gorgeous green shown here and the Seiko movement, there’s a lot to love. And that legendary value for money? Yeah, the OceanTrek GMT will set you back £149. Try finding that anywhere else.

More details at Oceaneva.

Violet, lavender, mauve, plum, lilac, amethyst, there are a lot of shades of purple out there. Most of them have graced the dial of a watch at some point or other and there is a huge selection of modern watches embracing this rich and enticing colour. Here are 22 of the best purple watches to buy right now.

If you’re a subscriber to the Oracle Time Newsletter then you’ll be fully aware that the Oracle Time Watch Awards 2024 are live right now and if you’re not member (first of all why not?), I’m here to tell you that it’s true! This is our third annual watch awards and we just wanted to take a moment to let you know what’s been happening and how you can get involved. We are also able to at last announce the details of the associated prize draw.

What are the Oracle Time Watch Awards?

Let’s not beat around the bush, there are a lot of awards that get handed out to watch brands these days. From GPHG to Red Dot to other publications similar to Oracle Time holding their own award events. What makes ours different is that we don’t keep any of process hidden behind the cloak and dagger of expert panels or selection committees. We refer to our awards as the Community Watch Awards because that’s precisely what they are, every watch you see in the awards is nominated and voted for by you, the Oracle Time readers and community. This is a true reflection of the watches you’ve loved over the past 12 months.

How are the awards structured?

Last month we held the Nominations stage of the watch awards. We asked you, our community, to think of the best watches from the past 12 months across nine separate categories. After the nominations closed, we counted them all up (there were a lot of them) and put the eight watches with the highest number of nominations into a short list.

That short list is now live and it’s up to you to go and vote for your favourite watch in each of the nine categories. On top of that, we’ve added a 10th category called Readers’ Choice. This is a completely open selection where you can vote for any watch released in the past 12 months – including a watch you already voted for in one of the previous categories if you like – to win the prestigious title of Best Watch of 2024. Additionally, the Readers’ Choice winner will be featured on the cover of our December print magazine, which is also where you’ll be able to read the result for the first time.

What are the Categories?

Dive Watch
Chronograph
Accessible (Under £1,000)
Dress Watch
Travel Watch
Field/Pilot’s Watch
Microbrand
High Complication
Integrated Sports Watch
Readers’ Choice

What is the Prize Draw?

By voting in the Oracle Time Watch Awards 2024 you will automatically be entered into our prize draw. There are three prizes to be won. They are an Spinnaker Hass Automatic Whale Project Limited Edition, Orient Star 1964 Diver V2 and Herbelin Newport Slim 42mm Quartz. The prizes will be drawn once the results are announced and you will be contacted via the email address you submitted with your votes.

Where to Read the Results?

The official results of the Oracle Time Watch Awards 2024 will be announced first in the December edition of the print magazine, published on December 1st. This will include a complete analysis and discussion of every winning timepiece and some notable runners-up. A few weeks later we’ll publish just the winners online too.

Voting closes on October 31st. Click here to vote now.

Winfield Watch Company Oconus GMT, £494

Winfield Watch Company is dedicated to the true art of exploration, with their watches being designed for high adrenaline activities including mountain climbing, skydiving, mountain biking, swimming and skiing. The outcome is watches like the Oconus GMT, a practical tool watch in steel with a large 44mm diameter. That size gives it a broad, rugged appearance while ensuring great legibility at a glance. Powering it is the Miyota 9075 GMT, a true GMT with a 42-hour power reserve.

Available at Winefield Watch.

House Of Khalsa Ocean Lion, £1,344

In many ways, wristwatches are all about personal representation. Whether that’s personal style or the ways in which we choose to live our lives that may necessitate the use of certain tool watches. House of Khalsa is a watch brand dedicated to the concept of representation, specifically the representation of faith through Sikh Khanda Sahib on the dial, seconds hand and bracelet clasp. However, it’s important to note that there’s also some serious watch design skills on display, as well with the Ocean Lion featuring a Swiss automatic movement and 500m water resistance rating.

Available at House Of Khalsa.

Vario Empire Seasons True GMT, £549

Art Deco design is most commonly associated with two geographical regions of the world, France and the United States of America, or more specifically New York. Between the Chrysler Building and Empire State Building, the New York skyline is an ode to Art Deco design. It’s this that has inspired the Vario Empire True GMT with its stylised typography, sector style display and guilloche texture pattern. The Seasons limited edition series is made in Japan and houses the Miyota 9075 True GMT movement. Limited to 60-pieces.

Available at Vario.

Vesuviate Attivo-Duplex, $545 (approx. £420)

Vesuviate’s name is a reference to the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, one of the most famous volcanoes in histoty. The modification of the volcano’s name into a verb “vesuviate” plays on the fact that the brand’s signature manufacturing technique is thermochemical surface treatment, which uses heat related chemical reactions to give their steel an ultra-hard surface. The Attivo-Duplex uses this hardened steel in its 39mm x 46.2mm x 11.5mm case, which has a retro TV shape. The display features two independent time displays powered by separate movements, both of which a ultra-slim Peacock SL-7020s with 36-hour power reserves.

Available at Vesuviate.

Oceaneva Oceantrek GMT, £150

Oceaneva are best known for their rugged and durable tool watches that offer amazing value. Now though, with the launch of the OceanTrek GMT they are expanding their aesthetic in a more refined direction. Measuring 42mm in diameter with a smooth steel bezel, the OceanTrek GMT is a versatile daily wearer suitable for every occasion, from the beach to the boardroom to an evening soiree. It features elegant sunray brushed finishing on its dial with Roman numerals and an inner 24-hour GMT scale. Powering the watch is the Seiko calibre NH34.

Available at Oceaneva.

Automatic is a word we often see printed on dials, written on casebacks or thrown around on the websites of watch brands. But what actually is an automatic movement and what makes it different from its predecessor the manual wind movement?

If you’ve had a chance to review our article on manual wind movements you will know that the difference between an automatic and manual wind movement can simply be explained as the way in which they provide power to the mainspring. As the name suggests an automatic movement provides power to the mainspring automatically. No prizes for working that one out. In practice this means there is (almost) no need for the wearer to have to manually wind their watch in order to keep it powered.

The first automatic movement for a pocket watch by Abraham-Louis Perrelet

The invention of the automatic movement can be traced back to Abraham-Louis Perrelet who in 1777 first introduced a automatic calibre in a pocket watch. The problem was a pocket watch remained stationary in a pocket so there wasn’t enough kinetic energy to power the watch. Hence it didn’t really catch on. Monsieur Perrelet was one of those unfortunate individuals who was just ahead of his time. Fast forward to 1922 and British watchmaker John Harwood would create the first automatic movement as we know it today.

The genius behind an automatic movement is the inclusion of a weighted rotor. The automatic rotor is a small, often semi-circular disk that is pivoted at the centre. Harwood’s inspiration came from a seesaw in a children’s playground and he created what are known as ‘bumper movements’. In a bumper movement the rotor only rotated approx. 270° where it would then hit a spring, or bumper, which would propel it back in the opposite direction. By 1931 Rolex had perfected the automatic movement which now rotated a full 360°. Although, Rolex kept their rotors hidden until recently with the 2023 Daytona being the first exhibition caseback to reveal the 360° gold rotor which sits on top of the movement.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Platinum 126506

This creation of the automatic rotor removed the need for the movement to be manually wound via the crown. As your wrist moves, the rotor swings back and forth winding the mainspring. In other words simply wear it and it will power itself. However, once you take your watch off and the power reserve starts to run down and should it run out completely, the watch will grind to a halt.

One of the great things about automatic movements is that they can still be manually wound. In fact, should your watch run out of power completely, it’s usually recommended that you restart it by manually winding with the crown. This saves you wildly shaking the watch to get the rotor spinning.

The length of time the mainspring can provide power to the watch without additional winding is referred to as the power reserve. There are many elements that can impact the power reserve of a watch from the length of the mainspring, to the frequency of the movement and number of complications. In the watch community 72-hours is often regarded as the magic number for a power reserve as it makes a watch ‘weekend proof’. Put it down on Friday and pick it up again on Monday morning and you’re good to go.

Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar

In some cases even 72-hours of power reserve might not do the trick. If you have a collection of multiple watches and regularly switch from one to the other you can find yourself constantly resetting watches you haven’t worn for a little while.

This problem led to the creation of watch winders that keep the watch moving when not being worn. There is a lot of debate around the impact of watch winders and how beneficial they are for your watch. On the one hand they keep your watch from running out of power so you won’t need to reset or wind it whenever you pick it up. For complicated perpetual calendar watches this is a lifesaver as often these watches won’t have a quick set function. Instead it needs to be wound forward to the correct time, date and year. There are many horror stories of perpetual calendars that have been left idle for years and the only way to reset them is to wind the watch forward through the years until you reach the current date.

On the other hand, some argue that keeping a watch continually moving so the mainspring is fully under tension isn’t good for the long term health of a watch. Think of it like keeping the engine on in your car when you’re not using it. That said, for older vintage watches, watch winders can help keep everything functioning smoothly. If left idle for too long the lubricants and oils in an older movement could start to gunk up and not perform as they should. Sticking with the car analogy using a winder for an older watch is like taking a vintage car for a spin every now and then to keep it ticking over. You can see how these contrasts mean the jury is still split on watch winders. In order to find the right balance more sophisticated watch winders have a ‘turns per day’ or TPD function that allows you to choose winding and rest periods so it’s not constantly in motion.

A modern watch winder with a ‘turns per day’ function

An automatic rotor does have a clever engineering piece up its sleeve. If you’ve ever looked through an exhibition case back and tried to get the rotor to spin you’ll notice that the rotor can rotate both clockwise and anti-clockwise. The impressive engineering part is ensuring that in whichever direction the bidirectional rotor spins it charges the mainspring. Without this you can imagine how incredibly frustrating it would be to power the watch only when the rotor spins clockwise. The bidirectional rotor was first created in 1942 when watch movement manufacturer Felsa created their Bidynator calibre.

The operation of bidirectional winding is one of the big differences with automatic movements. In a manual wind movement the mainspring can only be wound when the crown is turned in a single direction. There are several different methods that allow for an automatic rotor to wind in both directions, most common is what’s known as a reverser mechanism. This system uses two disks that sit between the rotor and mainspring. Essentially, it allows only one disk to rotate whilst stopping the other disk. When the rotor spins in the opposite direction the disk’s roles are reversed. IWC have their own patented system called a Pellaton movement which uses cam and pawl arms to translate the rotor movement, regardless of which way it spins, into the rotation of a single winding wheel.

IWC Portugieser with automatic movement with Pellaton system

We’ve mentioned that the automatic rotor is weighted. This weight is important as it ensures that the rotor freely spins. The total weight of the rotor affects how easily it spins and how much power it can provide to the mainspring. In a watch with a particularly heavy rotor you can often feel the rotor moving throughout the day, which if too drastic can be a bit alarming.

In more advanced calibre’s brands have adopted a micro-rotor. The micro-rotor is far smaller than the watch diameter and sits as part of the movement rather than on top of it. Because of the reduced size the micro-rotor requires additional weight to ensure it still spins with the same efficiency. Hence why many micro-rotors are made from dense materials such as gold or platinum. As a result of the rotor being embedded in the movement, watches with micro-rotor’s are usually thinner. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF highlights this nicely with the calibre being just 3mm thick. The additional benefit of the micro-rotor is that it doesn’t obscure the view through an exhibition caseback. Instead allowing you to admire more of the movement and its finishing.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF caseback shows their micro-rotor

The obstruction of a rotor over the movement is something brands have tried to address over the years. Rather than use a micro-rotor, brands like Audemars Piguet have tried to improve the design of the traditional rotor. To mark the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak they released a number of models which had semi-skeletonised rotors with ‘50 years’ cut into the middle.

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral BigDate

Elsewhere brands like Carl F. Bucherer have led the way in peripheral technology. A peripheral rotor is one that orbits the periphery of the movement and prevents any obstruction at all. Where the peripheral rotor differs from centrally mounted and micro rotors is that they are not anchored or fixed to the movement. In 2009, after years of hiatus, Carl F. Bucherer revived excitement in the peripheral rotor with calibre CFB A1000. The CFB A1000 uses a system of ball-bearing rollers for increased efficiency and to aid rotation of the rotor with as little friction as possible. Other brands have since followed suit with Vacheron Constantin creating their own peripheral rotor in the Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph. This split-second chrono movement uses a solid gold rotor that orbits the outside of the movement. This increases the diameter of the watch but not its thickness.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Ultra Thin Grand Complication Chronograph with peripheral rotor

The evolution of the mechanical movement to automatic has had a big effect on the watch world. Bypassing the need to wind a watch on a daily basis makes mechanical watches more user friendly. If worn regularly an automatic will easily outlast a smart watch before it needs charging and will in theory outlast a quartz battery.

In a mechanical watch the two methods of delivering power to the mainspring are automatic or manual wind. Both are effective methods of powering your watch and maintaining accurate time keeping. However, with manual wind movements being first on the scene, what is a manual wind movement and how is it different from an automatic?

Before we explore the manual wind in detail, it should be noted that neither manual or automatic is considered better or more preferable over the other. The choice of movement from brands is often decided based on several factors such as the watch type, complications, watch size, and many other elements. There is also little impact on cost or desirability when it comes to automatic or manual wind. Brands like Patek Philippe, Richard Mille and Vacheron Constantin use both in their product line ups. For example, Patek’s Nautilus 5726 with an annual calendar complication, uses an automatic calibre. Whereas the Patek Grand Complications 5470P monopusher chronograph uses a manual winding calibre.

Patek Philippe 5470P 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

The difference between an automatic and manual wind movement can simply be explained as the way in which they provide power to the mainspring. The mainspring is the petrol tank of your watch, it’s where all the energy is stored ready to be deployed through the gears and motion works in order to make the hands move. The ability to store energy requires the mainspring to be wound or coiled. As the spring is wound tighter it holds more energy, which it will release as it unwinds. Think of those wind-up toys you had as kids, the more you wound them up the further they would travel across the living room carpet.

A side-by-side comparison of an automatic movement with rotor and a manual wind movement without

As the name suggests manual wind requires the wearer to manually add power to the mainspring. Most commonly by winding the crown. The easiest way to visually differentiate a manual wind from an automatic is the exclusion of a rotor. A manual calibre doesn’t require a rotor of any sort as the movement can only be powered through winding.

In order to add power to your movement you will typically rotate the crown clockwise and this causes the mainspring to coil. A key feature of a manual wind watch is that they can only wind the mainspring by rotating in a single direction. This is because the winding stem, which is the metal pin that connects the crown to the movement, tightens the mainsping when turned in a given direction. Wind the crown in the reverse direction and nothing will happen. Essentially, the winding stem won’t engage with the winding mechanism connected to the mainspring. Think of it like cycling the pedals backwards on a bicycle, the bike doesn’t start moving backwards, the pedals simply rotate freely.

The exhibition caseback of the Omega Speedmaster

With manual wind watches you need to be adding power at regular intervals to ensure the mainspring has enough energy to continue to operate the watch day after day. Because of this requirement to regularly add power, these movements are not common in dive watches which have a screw down crown to make them water tight. Instead they are better served for watches that are more at home away from water. How about on the moon? Omega’s Speedmaster Profession is arguably the most recognisable manual wind watch on the scene today. With the current generation of Speedmaster it is recommended that you wind the watch every 24 hours. This requires the wearer to complete 20 – 40 turns of the crown to achieve full power.

A. Lange & Sohne Lange 31

Different manual wind calibres will require a different number of rotations and winding intervals. One of the most extreme versions can be found in the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 31. The Lange 31 movement has a 31-day power reserve thanks in large part to not one, but two mainsprings. Each mainspring is approximately ten times longer than a standard mainspring. Winding these springs could be such a time consuming and cumbersome task that the Lange 31 comes with a unique winding key to speed up the process.

Many other watches have also defied convention when it comes to manual winding. Some by removing the crown all together. Perhaps the most extreme of these is the MB&F HM11. The watch itself looks like something out of Star Wars, and the way you wind the watch is by rotating the entire case. Rotate the case through 360 degrees 10 times and the watch will be fully powered. Alternatively, a single 90 degree rotation will give you 72 minutes of power.

In the early days of manual watches the biggest issue was with over winding. Once the mainspring is fully coiled if you continue to turn you are likely to do some serious damage to the winding mechanism and mainspring itself. This could be a big problem and a hefty repair bill. So, how would you know if the mainspring is fully wound or if you should keep winding?

H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit

The addition of a power reserve indicator, first introduced in a production watch by Jaeger LeCoultre in 1948, is one solution of particular importance for manual wind movements. The visual representation of mainspring power, as you’ll find on the H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, clearly shows when you’re full. As an added safety feature many modern manual wind watches have a stopping mechanism that lets the user ‘feel’ when the mainspring has reached capacity.

The most common stopping mechanism uses a small hook inside the mainspring barrel. This hook catches the end of the mainspring to prevent it winding any further. The wearer will feel the crown hit a point of resistance whereby it doesn’t want to turn any more. This is the signal to stop winding, you’re at max power. In modern watches it’s quite difficult to overwind your manual movement unless you ignore and push past the point of resistance.

Manual Wind Movement Pros and Cons

Manual wind movements have both positives and negatives. If you enjoy the mechanical art of a watch movement and want to be involved in its operation then manual winding might be your preferred calibre.

Every year it feels like there’s a prevailing trend that takes over the watch industry. And if you believe the narrative (which are just as guilty of spreading) then 2024 is a year that has been dominated by vintage proportions and the return of classy dress watch design. However, there is one truth in the watch industry that must never be overlooked: trends are temporary, the popularity of dive watches is forever. It’s true, while the spotlight is on vintage inspired watches, this year’s fleet of dive watch releases has been spectacular. Here’s a look at the best dive watches of 2024 (one per brand) for every budget.

Dirty Dozen Watches from circa 1945. Image credit: Christopher Beccan for Watches of Knightsbridge

Military watches have long held interest for collectors with their many variations in service throughout the 20th century. This article looks at some recent vintage military wristwatches sold at auction highlighting their often-fascinating history, extensive range of makers, and current auction prices.

Collecting Vintage Military Watches: A Dealer’s Perspective

Lemania stainless steel monopusher chronograph, used by military test pilots for the B.A.C, (British Aircraft Corporation), during the 1960s, with an original dial showing the British military property broad arrow ‘↑’ and circled ‘T’ for tritium luminescence, the caseback is marked ‘B.A.C. L4’. Sold by Watches of Knightsbridge for £3,500 hammer price, before fees. Image credit: Watches of Knightsbridge

To start this article, I caught up with Paul Maudsley from Remontoire Ltd to get his thoughts on collecting vintage military timepieces. Paul is a fine watch dealer who has worked in senior level positions within the auction world including roles as Director of Watches for both Bonhams and Phillips. Paul noted:

“I have always found military watches interesting. There is a big market out there amongst collectors, but it is still a relatively niche market as such. I think the historical element combined with the technical aspects of the watches attracts collectors. It is also a wide collecting category, spanning at one end vintage military pieces that you might pay around £1500 for at auction including fees right through to a watch like a Rolex Submariner ‘MilSub’ for which you could potentially pay over £300,000 for a good example at auction”.

“The other fascinating part comes with researching and finding out about a particular set of military watches or a specific model. A good example would be the Lemania military wristwatches that were used on Royal Navy submarines. When buying originality is the key and anything with a good story or provenance. Make sure any military markings are correct, do your homework which is also a great way to learn about these watches”.

Military Pilot’s Watches

Rare Lemania ‘Viggen’ ref. 817, a stainless steel chronograph wristwatch from the 1970s, made for Swedish Air Force pilots flying the Saab 37 Viggen fighter jet, image credit: Sotheby’s.

Flying at speed in a Saab 37 Viggen fighter jet over the forests of Sweden with the arctic circle on the horizon must have afforded Swedish Air Force pilots in the 1970s a stunning view. Should they have had time to glance at their wrists some of those pilots would have been wearing a Lemania, Reference. 817 ‘Viggen’ stainless steel chronograph wristwatch. Today this watch is a collector item with an example from circa 1970 selling at Sotheby’s, Important Watches sale in New York on 5 June for US $20,400, (approximately £15,710), including buyer’s premium. The result flew well above the estimate of US $7,000 – 11,000. Sotheby’s noted that only about 400 watches were commissioned.

Another equally rare military pilots’ Lemania wristwatch to be auctioned recently was a stainless steel, monopusher chronograph wristwatch used by military test pilots for the B.A.C, (British Aircraft Corporation), during the 1960s. With a 39mm diameter case and fixed lug bars. The chronograph was auctioned by Watches of Knightsbridge at their Modern, Vintage & Military Timepieces sale on 1 June. Given an estimate of between £3,500 – 4,500 it fetched £3,500 hammer price, before fees. The caseback is stamped ‘B.A.C. L4’, providing an excellent example of how stamped markings on military watches can identify their use.

Omega ref 34/62, a rare stainless steel monopusher chronograph with hacking seconds, made for the Royal Canadian Air Force from 1960s, accompanied by photographs of the original fighter pilot owner, military documentation, and a storybook of 433 Squadron. Sold by Sotheby’s for US $8,400, (approximately £6,460), including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Sotheby’s.

An Omega pilots’ wristwatch also featured an example of a monopusher chronograph wristwatch. This being a Reference 34/62 stainless steel watch with hacking seconds. Made for the Royal Canadian Air Force from circa 1960. Featuring a Calibre. 2221 mechanical movement and sized at 38 mm diameter with ‘RCAF’ stamped markings on the caseback. The watch sold for US $8,400, (approximately £6,460), including buyer’s premium at Sotheby’s, Important Watches sale in New York on 5 June. The estimate was US $8,000 – 12,000.

Military Diving Watches

Rolex Submariner MilSub ref 5517 from circa 1978, stamped for the British Royal Navy. Sold by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo for HK$3,429,000, (approximately £337,590), including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Phillips

High on the check list for many collectors are the famed 20th century military diving wristwatches often used by elite units. Four of the most sought-after watches are the Omega Seamaster 300, Reference. 165.024 / Panerai Radiomir, Reference. 3646 / Rolex Submariner, Reference. 5513 & 5517 known as the ‘MilSub’ / Tornek-Rayville TR-900 wristwatch made for the US military.

Examples of three of these watches have recently sold at auction, these being the Omega, Rolex, and Tornek-Rayville. Diving straight in, let’s start with the Rolex. The Rolex MilSub, (short for military Submariner), was made for the British Ministry of Defence (MOD) in the early 1970s. It is arguably the best-known military wristwatch in existence. Before considering the MilSub example this is a perfect time to talk about the importance of originality. Put simply the more original a military watch is, with the correct dial, hands, bezel, in fact any part, along with the correct military markings the more collectable it will be. Originality however can be a challenge with vintage military wristwatches given that they were tool watches and used as such. Additionally, post their military service these watches in civilian life may also have had replacement parts fitted over assorted servicing. Patina is less of an issue with military watches, as many collectors like a well-worn look, indicative of active service and the history of the watch.

Rolex Submariner MilSub ref 5517 from circa 1978, stamped for the British Royal Navy. Sold by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo for HK$3,429,000, (approximately £337,590), including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Phillips.

Back to the Rolex MilSub, Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo offered a very rare, fine, and highly collectable example at their Hong Kong Watch auction held between 24-25 November 2023. Their Rolex Submariner, MilSub, Reference. 5517, dated to circa 1978. Made from stainless steel with a 40mm diameter case on a NATO style strap. The wristwatch was used by the British Royal Navy as indicated by the stamped military numbers on the caseback. The markings also include the British military property broad arrow ‘↑’ symbol. Powered by a Calibre. 1520, automatic movement, with a hacking seconds feature. The watch has the correct military specification fixed lugs, bezel calibrated for 60 minutes, sword-shaped hands, and encircled ‘T’ for tritium luminescence. In addition, Phillips noted that the Reference. 5517 is very rare and made specifically for the MOD. They also catalogued that research indicates the existence of Reference numbers, 5513, double reference 5513/5517, and 5517 for the Rolex MilSub watch. Estimated at HK$1,950,000 – 3,900,000 the watch sold for HK$3,429,000, (approximately £337,590), including buyer’s premium. A price that reflects the esteem that collectors give to examples of the MilSub in as near as possible original condition.

By way of direct comparison in terms of a Rolex MilSub with later added parts, Bonhams offered an MOD military issue Rolex Submariner, MilSub, Reference. 5513, from circa 1974 at their Knightsbridge sale on 22 May. As Bonhams catalogued this watch had later added non-military Rolex Mercedes hands, a replacement bezel marked for 15 minutes rather than the military spec 60-minute calibration, and with the military markings removed from the caseback. Additionally, the military specification fixed bars between the lugs had been replaced with spring bars. The watch did however have excellent provenance having originally belonged to a Royal Navy diver. At auction the watch fetched £25,600 including buyer’s premium.

Rare British military Omega Seamaster 300 ref 165.024 from circa 1969, with a full 60-minute calibrated bezel, tritium luminescence shown by the circled ‘T’ on the dial, oversize sword hands and military caseback markings. Sold by Bonhams for £23,040 including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Bonhams

Omega’s famed Seamaster received the full British military specification treatment in the mid-1960s to meet the requirements of the MOD. As noted by Bonhams this included solid fixed bars between the lugs, a full 60-minute calibrated bezel, tritium luminescence with the circled ‘T’ on the dial, and oversize sword hands. The example shown here was sold by Bonhams at their New Bond Street auction on 19 June. This Seamaster 300, Reference. 165.024 is from circa 1969. Powered by a Calibre.552 automatic movement with a stainless steel case sized at 41mm diameter. The screw down caseback bears stamped British military markings including the military property broad arrow ‘↑’. This watch is fitted with spring bars. In the early 1970s the Omega was replaced by the Rolex Submariner MilSub. With an estimate of £15,000 – 20,000 the Omega made £23,040 including buyer’s premium.

When faced with import restrictions to the USA in the 1960s Blancpain could not directly supply the US military with its Fifty Fathoms diving watch. This was because the US Military could only buy US made products. As Antiquorum pick up the story in their cataloguing – Blancpain’s US distributor, Allen V. Tornek then established the US based Tornek-Rayville entity. As a result, the now legendary Tornek-Rayville TR-900 diver wristwatch was created for the US military. Effectively the watch is a modified Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. The original Fifty Fathoms was launched in 1953, the same year that Rolex released the Submariner, making it one of the early modern era 20th century diver wristwatches. Antiquorum further noted that the Tornek-Rayville TR-900 wristwatch is very rare due to the limited number produced plus many watches were destroyed by the US Navy at the end of their service.

An extremely rare Tornek-Rayville TR-900 US military divers’ wristwatch. The watch has been retrospectively fitted with an original period correct dial with the humidity indicator at 6 o’clock. The caseback is inscribed: ‘If found return to nearest military facility’ ‘Danger Radioactive Material’. Sold by Antiquorum for €72,160, (approximately £61,540), including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Antiquorum

The Antiquorum, US military Tornek-Rayville TR-900 example was sold at their Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces auction held in Monaco on 13 July. The collector who owned the watch had originally purchased it with a later non correct dial. He was able to source an original Tornek-Rayville period correct dial and have this fitted to the watch. Antiquorum documented this clearly in their cataloguing. The stainless steel watch is sized at 41 mm diameter on a NATO style strap and is from circa 1965. The replacement dial features a humidity indicator at 6 o’clock as per the original watch design. The wristwatch sold for €72,160, (approximately £61,540), including buyer’s premium. The estimate was set between €50,000 – €150,000.

The ‘Dirty Dozen’

‘Dirty Dozen’ British military ‘W.W.W’ Longines wristwatch from circa 1945, with an original dial, a British military property broad arrow ‘↑’ symbol and military markings. Sold by Watches of Knightsbridge for £3,800 hammer price, before fees. Image credit: Watches of Knightsbridge

Some military watches have become iconic, such as the diving wristwatches mentioned above. To this group can be added the Mark 11 RAF pilots’ and navigator’s wristwatch introduced around 1948. Both IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre made this watch for the British MOD. Another watch for the group would include the French Ministry of Defence, Type XX flyback chronograph from the mid-1950s. This wristwatch was famously made by Breguet and Mathey-Tissot. But no group of iconic military wristwatches would be complete without mention of the so-called ‘Dirty Dozen’. A name later given to the set of 12 watches, in reference to the 1967 war action movie.

Made to the specifications of the British MOD during the Second World War, 12 watch companies supplied these watches including Buren, Eterna, Grana, Longines, Vertex, Lemania, Record, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, Cyma, and Timor. The watches became available to the British armed forces at the end of the war. Occasionally the whole set of 12 wristwatches can come up for auction. The most elusive watch in the group is the Grana. Bonhams sold a ‘Dirty Dozen’ Grana wristwatch from circa 1945 in February this year for £17,920 including buyer’s premium. Pictured for this article is a Longines ‘Dirty Dozen’ British military ‘W.W.W’ stainless steel cased wristwatch from circa 1945. The movement is a manual wind Calibre. 12.68Z, with the case sized at approximately 37.5mm diameter. The watch was auctioned by Watches of Knightsbridge at their Modern, Vintage & Military Timepieces sale on 1 June. Estimated at £3,000 – 4,000 it fetched £3,800 hammer price, before fees.

Watches with Military Affiliations

A rare modern limited-edition Tudor, Pelagos ‘Royal Navy Clearance Diver’ ref 25600TB, made for the 70th anniversary of the Royal Navy Clearance Diver division. Sold by Sotheby’s for £10,800 including buyer’s premium. Image credit: Sotheby’s.

A smaller niche area for military watch collecting are those more modern wristwatches produced to pay homage to military forces or specific units, usually issued as limited editions. This also includes watches made to recognise military anniversaries and events, along with ongoing relationships between a watch brand and a particular military force. Examples include Bremont with their ‘Approved by His Majesty’s Armed Forces’ watch range and Breitling with their Royal Air Force – Red Arrows team watches. Often these timepieces include the use of military shields, emblems, or the depiction of military equipment such as fighter jets, belonging to the military forces celebrated by the watch. While these pieces are not military watches in the purist sense, and are often available for the public to buy, they can offer watch enthusiasts another collecting area.

An excellent example sold recently by Sotheby’s was a modern 2022, Tudor, Pelagos ‘Royal Navy Clearance Diver’, Reference. 25600TB, titanium wristwatch made for the 70th anniversary of the Royal Navy Clearance Diver division. This watch is a limited-edition version of the brand’s Pelagos wristwatch with the addition of a special script on the blue dial and an engraved caseback with the military division’s emblem. Sotheby’s noted that the watch was available to Royal Navy divers. The inscribed ‘E.O.D’ on the caseback stands for ‘Explosive Ordnance Disposal’. The original owner of the watch served in the Royal Navy. Auctioned on 29 May at Sotheby’s in London the watch fetched £10,800 including buyer’s premium against an estimate of £10,000 – 20,000.

By way of comparison a standard pre-owned, 2022, Tudor, Pelagos titanium wristwatch, Reference. M25600TB, will sell for around £3,250 with box and papers via a secondary watch market dealer. It must be noted however that this type of differential is enjoyed only by the very rarest of these military style wristwatches which must also be exclusive only to members of the military unit for which the watch was made for. Most of these military style watches are sold directly to the public and therefore are considered less collectable as such.

Servicing Vintage Military Watches

The movement and inside case back for a Lemania stainless steel, monopusher chronograph wristwatch. Used by military test pilots for the B.A.C, (British Aircraft Corporation), during the 1960s. Image credit: Watches of Knightsbridge

Many vintage military watches that come up for auction will have lived a bit of a hard life and are obviously very unlikely to be box fresh. Indeed, for collectors it is this very element that makes these watches interesting, their history, military service and resulting patina. But if you are planning to bid on a vintage military watch at auction, to borrow some military terminology, take time to do some prior reconnaissance. As noted by Paul Maudsley at the beginning of this article do your research. Find out as much as possible about the watch, how original is the condition, what makes it interesting to collect, and is there any relevant provenance? Check if the stamped military markings are correct and learn what they mean. Also, find out what the auction house fees are, plus any additional online bidding fees, and think about the maximum you want to bid.

Service work on a watch movement. Image credit: Harris Horology

Finally, like any piece of military kit, you need to make sure it is in working order. Take time to read any auction house condition reports and ask the auction watch specialists for more information if needed. Remember that once you have purchased the watch at auction, unless it has been misrepresented, its yours. This means if the watch movement or other part such as a crown and winding stem break you will need to have it repaired. So, this brings us to the question of servicing and repair when it’s time for your watch to have some well earnt ‘R&R.’ This is a topic on its own right, but I thought it might be helpful to include a few general comments on the subject. To do this I spoke with James Harris FBHI, an award-winning horologist and accredited watchmaker at Harris Horology in London. I asked James for his views on servicing vintage military watches:

“There is nothing inherently different from servicing other vintage timepieces. However, you should be confident that whoever carries out the work has experience with them and understands the importance of sympathetic repair to maintain as much as possible the originality of the watch. At HH we specialise in vintage and so our practice is always conservation-based. Replacing dials, hands, bezels, crowns etc, or even fixed bars on vintage military watches can all detract from originality and ultimately the value of the watch. Typically, military watches like the ‘Dirty Dozen’ have good quality movements and provided they have not been too badly treated over the years. Servicing tends to be cleaning the movement, regulating, and applying fresh lubrication with some repair and restoration if needed”.

Service work on a military Lemania chronograph watch dial. Image credit: Harris Horology

I also asked James about radium luminescence, (or lume), that was used on earlier vintage military watches before the introduction of tritium luminescence, and now modern non-radioactive Super-LumiNova.

“You should be careful: The consensus seems to be that you need not be scared of these watches, but it needs to be respected. Don’t open watch cases with radium lume as potentially this could release particles into the air which you might breathe in. When we service timepieces that have radium lume, we work in a special air evacuation clean space”.

Resources and Reading

For those entering the world of military watch collecting there are some useful websites and reference books. One informative website is CWC ADDICT which is a dedicated collector website covering the topic of British military timepieces made by CWC. Apart from the CWC content the website also lists other resources for military watch collectors. A few reference books for collectors include:

Zaf Basha; ‘Vintage Military Wristwatches’
Konrad Knirim; ‘British Military Timepieces’
Marvin. E Whitney; ‘Military Timepieces.’

A number of these titles might also be available as second hand books. Another quick but helpful read for entry level collectors is a posted article by Bonhams titled: ‘Collecting 101 Military Watches.’.

Check our our luxury watch auction calendar for the latest auction information.