There has been a trend in recent years of brands revitalising legendary watches and turning them into modern editions. Watch brands, more than any other, like to keep us reminded of how old they are and the history that goes alongside the piece you just bought. For example, it’s hard to mention the word Omega without talking about the moon. These brands with a rich history have a substantial back catalogue to choose from and bringing back an icon often gets chins wagging within the community.

When it comes to paying homage to the watches from your past brands approach it slightly differently. Some look to recreate the icon in its true form, why mess with a classic? Others prefer to take design queues in a nod to history whilst updating the watch to modern standards. The point is there are different ways to approach reintroducing a legendary watch. We’ve selected 5 true legends to see how their modern counterparts stack up.

Vacheron Constantin 222

Vacheron Constantin 222 Ref. 11990 (1977)

The original Vacheron Constantin 222, released in 1977, surfaced around the same time as Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet launched their icons with the Nautilus (1976) and Royal Oak (1971). If you want to know where the 222 came from, it was to mark the 222nd year of Vacheron’s founding. I told you watch brands like to remind us of their history.

Much like the Nautilus and Royal Oak of the 1970s the 222 was a three hand watch with a date window. However, this wasn’t the only similarity. Fun fact but the original Nautilus, Royal Oak and 222 all shared the same base movement, an ultra-thin Jaeger-LeCoultre 920, which Vacheron modified.

One of the reasons the original 222 has become so desirable today is its exclusivity. If records are to be believed, only around 700 222’s in 37mm were produced in the eight years it was in production. It was also the first sports watch from Vacheron and led on to the now iconic Overseas, which only adds to its historical importance.

Vacheron Constantin 222 line up displayed in an advert (1960s)

In a fitting piece of numerical symmetry in 2022 Vacheron introduced a new 222 Historique edition. The first surprise was Vacheron released the new 222 in solid yellow gold at a time when steel sports watches were flying off the shelves quicker than they could be made.

This updated version is a true recreation, Vacheron have stuck almost wholeheartedly to the original design. They resisted the temptation to increase the case size, nowadays 40mm would be about par for the course. On the dial you have to look very closely to spot any changes at all. The only difference of note is the position of the date window, on the modern version it’s been moved inwards to allow the minute markers to continue uninterrupted. Whereas, the original date window intercepted the minute track. In all, this change constitutes moving the date window somewhere around 1mm

The updated Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 ref. 4200H/222J-B935

The big change in the 222 is the movement. Vacheron Constaintin have shunned the legendary watch’s JLC core in favour of a more modern Vacheron calibre 2455/2. Paired with the new movement is an open case back displaying the 18k yellow gold rotor. After 45 years Vacheron might be forgiven for providing an updated movement with modern manufacturing, materials and reliability.

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40

IWC Ingenieur SL ref. 1832 (1976)

Our second legendary vintage watch comes courtesy of Gerald Genta’s 1976 design IWC Ingenieur SL. Being a Genta design it noticeably shares many elements with the Nautilus and Royal Oak. Despite the Ingenieur SL being overshadowed by these other creations over time it became seen as the trendy little brother, offering collectors a more affordable price point for a watch from the legendary designer.

On release the Ingenieur SL was vastly different from the first Ingenieur of the 1950s. Not only did the SL introduce bolt holes to the bezel but the most interesting part of the design was the appearance of either a checkerboard or graph paper style textured dial. Housed in a 38mm case the original Ingenieur SL would likely have been quite the hit in today’s market.

The updated IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 ref. IW328901

By 1984 the first generation Genta designed Ingenieur was discontinued. Then, in March 2023, at Watches & Wonders, IWC released the Ingenieur Automatic 40. At its launch IWC revealed their museum had managed to track down Gerald Genta’s original drawings. Drawings which were thought to have been lost. Now armed with the originals the IWC design team could set to work recreating a modern sports watch inspired by the original workings.

Today’s Ingenieur is without question a modern interpretation, not a recreation. Firstly, you’ll notice crown guards on the 2023 model, which were not present on the original legendary watch. This adds to another key change which is the case size, the new model comes in 40mm only. If we are being picky the larger case shape takes on a more angular aesthetic than the 1976 version. Where the SL was noted for its rounded structure, the end links on the case and the centre links of the bracelet were more rounded than rectangular. The new Ingenieur sports a more aggressive case with polished lines giving a sharp, more defined aesthetic.

The updated IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 in white and black dial configurations

Across the rest of the watch the Genta-isms are in full view. The bolt holes dotted across the circular flat topped bezel remain unchanged and the dial reinterprets the checkerboard effect from the SL with great success. The alternating lined and dotted squares are a distinctive look and unique to the Ingenieur. To leave them out would have been a crime.

Tag Heuer Autavia Chronograph

Tag Heuer Autavia Dashboard Timer (1933)

This legendary vintage watch actually started life not as a watch at all but as a lap timer affixed to the dashboard of racing cars. In 1962 Jack Heuer introduced the Autavia wristwatch as a collection of racing inspired chronographs. The first edition of the watch was a favourite among celebs and the public for its highly legible dial. In the 1960s racing legends from Jacky Ickx and Emerson Fittipaldi to Gilles Villeneuve were ambassadors for the collection. Today the Autavia represents an iconic racing chrono from a brand more synonymous with motor racing than any other.

Heuer Autavia ref. 2446 (1692), image credit: Heuer Price Guide

The Autavia was characterised by a ‘reverse panda’ configuration dial which has become a favourite among chronographs even today. However, unlike many modern chronographs which deploy tachymeters and text across the bezel, the Autavia used numeric hour markers for a no-nonsense look. Over the years Tag Heuer did get more creative. A GMT version followed and colour was introduced with blue and red bezels, orange hands and blue dial accents. Yet, it’s the first edition Autavia, which ceased production in 1969, that’s the true icon.

In 2017 Tag Heuer celebrated the 55th anniversary of the Autavia with a reedition of the original albeit with some updates. The 2017 edition maintains the original aesthetic, the black dial is punctuated by white subdials and a black bezel was as plain as could be with roman numeral hour markers. Tag even went as far as colouring the tips of hour markers and lume on the hands in a beige patina effect colour in order to apply a vintage look.

Tag updated Heuer Autavia, ref. CBE2116

In truth the reissue only had two major changes to differ it from the original. Firstly, two of the subdials had been swapped around. The 1962 Autavia placed hours at 6 o’clock and minutes and 9 o’clock, by 2017 these dials had swapped positions. This isn’t a major change and certainly doesn’t detract from the look of the watch but seeing as we are being picky it’s worth pointing out.

The other change is harder to ignore. In 2017 Tag Heuer added a date window on to the 6 o’clock subdial. This was a new feature of the updated automatic Heuer 02 calibre which powered the reissue. After 55 years bringing the movement to modern standards is a welcome upgrade but the date seems unnecessary. Why go to such lengths as to recreate a patina effect on parts of the dial only to plant a date window in the middle?

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox

Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox (1960’s)

Jaeger-LeCoultre, regularly referred to as ‘the watchmakers watchmaker’, always kept several crucial innovations for their own brand. In the 1950s they created the legendary vintage Memovox watch which, with some linguistic gymnastics, means ‘the voice of memory’ in Latin. The Memovox movement, Calibre 489, cleverly separated the power reserve and time keeping elements from the alarm component. In practical terms this meant the Memovox required two crowns. One for winding and setting the watch, the other for setting the alarm function.

Jaeger LeCoutlre Polaris Memovox ref. E859 (1965), image credit: Christie’s

At first glance the 1950s Memovox has the appearance of a ‘pie pan’ style dial. The pie pan design is one most commonly found on vintage Omegas and gets its name due to an inner ring on the dial which makes it look like a pie dish you’d use for cooking. On the Memovox the rotating inner ring is used to set your alarm. You use the second crown to rotate a small triangle marker to point at the time when you need the alarm to sound.

The Memovox was a big hit when it was first released in dress watch format with a leather strap. Such was the success that JLC would later release a Memovox Deep Sea Dive watch in 1959 in order to make the watch accessible to a wider audience. This Memovox diver would go on to be rebranded Polaris in the early 1960s.

The Polaris Memovox was starting to radically differ from the original. This new dive watch now contained three crowns. The third crown was used to rotate the bezel which sat under the crystal so the wearer could time dives. This wasn’t the only new feature of the Polaris, in the case back were 16 holes which allowed for greater sound amplification and mean’t the alarm could be heard even under water.

The current Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox ref. Q903818J

Fast forward to today and this is how we come to know the Memovox, as a subset of the Polaris and now the Master Control collections. After starting out life as a stand alone model the Memovox has now been relegated to a subsection of the catalogue.

In 2018 JLC reintroduced the Polaris range in full. The launch of the updated collection contained a variety of different models one of which was a reintroduction of the Polaris Memovox. The current Polaris Memovox, like the Ingenieur, is a nod to the original rather than a recreation. It shares the same alarm functionality and 3 crown design with rotating alarm disk and internal dive bezel but that’s about where the similarities stop. The dial design and case shape have all been radically modernised to create a future proof sports watch. The larger hour markers are certainly more practical and legible than the original and there’s now no need for holes on the caseback to amplify sound.

Overall, the Memovox is a hard one to interpret. This legendary watch was a big success in the 60s yet today the Polaris Memovox hasn’t reached the same heights of other steel sports models on the market. Should JLC revert back to the first ever Memovox pre-Polaris? It’s hard to tell if that would be any more appealing in today’s market.

Rolex Daytona

Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona Ref. 6239, image credit: Phillips

So far we’ve been referencing the various commercial successes of these watches when they first launched. And you might think the Daytona, one of the most sought after watches of today, has been a triumphant success from the start. It’s not the case. It didn’t become a legendary vintage watch until much later when the influence of Paul Newman pushed it into the spotlight.

The iconic ‘Paul Newman’, reference 6239, was the first chronograph to bear the name Daytona and was offered in two configurations. A black dial with white subdials or with the colours reversed fondly known as the ‘panda’. Other key features of the 6239 include a red minute track on the outer edge of the dial, square box markers on the subdials and a steel bezel. The 6239 was also the first reference to carry a tachymeter on the bezel rather than printed on the dial. In many ways the 6239 has fed the design of all modern Daytonas.

The udpated Rolex Daytona ‘Le Mans’ ref. 126500LN

In general, Rolex aren’t ones for re-issues or re-releases. They honour their history by delivering updated models that blend the past with cutting edge modern design and materials. The modern Daytona is no exception. Look across the line up and no existing model in the stable shares a true likeness to the ‘Paul Newman’. Almost every aspect of the 6239 has been updated over the years.

The steel Daytona models are awash with new materials. Most obvious is the new ceramic bezel, which is black rather than silver and the movement has had a complete overhaul as well. The dial configurations still include black and white with the colours being inverted for the subdials, though only on the chapter rings not the whole subdial. The case has taken on new shapes and proportions with big changes to the crown and pushers. The modern steel Daytona now comes with crown guards and the pushers have a screw down locking function to stop them being pushed accidentally and to improve water resistance. The red track on the dial has been removed and the only red is the text ‘Daytona’ printed in the centre of the dial.

Rolex Daytona ref. 126509

Perhaps the closest in look to the original Daytona from the current line-up is the white gold variant ref. 126509. With the white gold bezel it replicates the all steel look of the 6239 and the dial is available with either a true panda or reverse panda configuration with solid colour subdials.

Looking at the Daytona through the ages is like looking at an evolution chart, you can see where it all started but the modern iteration has evolved a long way over 60 years. Is this because Rolex strives to be at the front of the watch industry setting the path for the future? Or is it because the might not be able to do justice to one of the most legendary watches of all time? Either way it would be fun to see them try.

Automatic is a word we often see printed on dials, written on casebacks or thrown around on the websites of watch brands. But what actually is an automatic movement and what makes it different from its predecessor the manual wind movement?

If you’ve had a chance to review our article on manual wind movements you will know that the difference between an automatic and manual wind movement can simply be explained as the way in which they provide power to the mainspring. As the name suggests an automatic movement provides power to the mainspring automatically. No prizes for working that one out. In practice this means there is (almost) no need for the wearer to have to manually wind their watch in order to keep it powered.

The first automatic movement for a pocket watch by Abraham-Louis Perrelet

The invention of the automatic movement can be traced back to Abraham-Louis Perrelet who in 1777 first introduced a automatic calibre in a pocket watch. The problem was a pocket watch remained stationary in a pocket so there wasn’t enough kinetic energy to power the watch. Hence it didn’t really catch on. Monsieur Perrelet was one of those unfortunate individuals who was just ahead of his time. Fast forward to 1922 and British watchmaker John Harwood would create the first automatic movement as we know it today.

The genius behind an automatic movement is the inclusion of a weighted rotor. The automatic rotor is a small, often semi-circular disk that is pivoted at the centre. Harwood’s inspiration came from a seesaw in a children’s playground and he created what are known as ‘bumper movements’. In a bumper movement the rotor only rotated approx. 270° where it would then hit a spring, or bumper, which would propel it back in the opposite direction. By 1931 Rolex had perfected the automatic movement which now rotated a full 360°. Although, Rolex kept their rotors hidden until recently with the 2023 Daytona being the first exhibition caseback to reveal the 360° gold rotor which sits on top of the movement.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Platinum 126506

This creation of the automatic rotor removed the need for the movement to be manually wound via the crown. As your wrist moves, the rotor swings back and forth winding the mainspring. In other words simply wear it and it will power itself. However, once you take your watch off and the power reserve starts to run down and should it run out completely, the watch will grind to a halt.

One of the great things about automatic movements is that they can still be manually wound. In fact, should your watch run out of power completely, it’s usually recommended that you restart it by manually winding with the crown. This saves you wildly shaking the watch to get the rotor spinning.

The length of time the mainspring can provide power to the watch without additional winding is referred to as the power reserve. There are many elements that can impact the power reserve of a watch from the length of the mainspring, to the frequency of the movement and number of complications. In the watch community 72-hours is often regarded as the magic number for a power reserve as it makes a watch ‘weekend proof’. Put it down on Friday and pick it up again on Monday morning and you’re good to go.

Frederique Constant Slimline Perpetual Calendar

In some cases even 72-hours of power reserve might not do the trick. If you have a collection of multiple watches and regularly switch from one to the other you can find yourself constantly resetting watches you haven’t worn for a little while.

This problem led to the creation of watch winders that keep the watch moving when not being worn. There is a lot of debate around the impact of watch winders and how beneficial they are for your watch. On the one hand they keep your watch from running out of power so you won’t need to reset or wind it whenever you pick it up. For complicated perpetual calendar watches this is a lifesaver as often these watches won’t have a quick set function. Instead it needs to be wound forward to the correct time, date and year. There are many horror stories of perpetual calendars that have been left idle for years and the only way to reset them is to wind the watch forward through the years until you reach the current date.

On the other hand, some argue that keeping a watch continually moving so the mainspring is fully under tension isn’t good for the long term health of a watch. Think of it like keeping the engine on in your car when you’re not using it. That said, for older vintage watches, watch winders can help keep everything functioning smoothly. If left idle for too long the lubricants and oils in an older movement could start to gunk up and not perform as they should. Sticking with the car analogy using a winder for an older watch is like taking a vintage car for a spin every now and then to keep it ticking over. You can see how these contrasts mean the jury is still split on watch winders. In order to find the right balance more sophisticated watch winders have a ‘turns per day’ or TPD function that allows you to choose winding and rest periods so it’s not constantly in motion.

A modern watch winder with a ‘turns per day’ function

An automatic rotor does have a clever engineering piece up its sleeve. If you’ve ever looked through an exhibition case back and tried to get the rotor to spin you’ll notice that the rotor can rotate both clockwise and anti-clockwise. The impressive engineering part is ensuring that in whichever direction the bidirectional rotor spins it charges the mainspring. Without this you can imagine how incredibly frustrating it would be to power the watch only when the rotor spins clockwise. The bidirectional rotor was first created in 1942 when watch movement manufacturer Felsa created their Bidynator calibre.

The operation of bidirectional winding is one of the big differences with automatic movements. In a manual wind movement the mainspring can only be wound when the crown is turned in a single direction. There are several different methods that allow for an automatic rotor to wind in both directions, most common is what’s known as a reverser mechanism. This system uses two disks that sit between the rotor and mainspring. Essentially, it allows only one disk to rotate whilst stopping the other disk. When the rotor spins in the opposite direction the disk’s roles are reversed. IWC have their own patented system called a Pellaton movement which uses cam and pawl arms to translate the rotor movement, regardless of which way it spins, into the rotation of a single winding wheel.

IWC Portugieser with automatic movement with Pellaton system

We’ve mentioned that the automatic rotor is weighted. This weight is important as it ensures that the rotor freely spins. The total weight of the rotor affects how easily it spins and how much power it can provide to the mainspring. In a watch with a particularly heavy rotor you can often feel the rotor moving throughout the day, which if too drastic can be a bit alarming.

In more advanced calibre’s brands have adopted a micro-rotor. The micro-rotor is far smaller than the watch diameter and sits as part of the movement rather than on top of it. Because of the reduced size the micro-rotor requires additional weight to ensure it still spins with the same efficiency. Hence why many micro-rotors are made from dense materials such as gold or platinum. As a result of the rotor being embedded in the movement, watches with micro-rotor’s are usually thinner. The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF highlights this nicely with the calibre being just 3mm thick. The additional benefit of the micro-rotor is that it doesn’t obscure the view through an exhibition caseback. Instead allowing you to admire more of the movement and its finishing.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF caseback shows their micro-rotor

The obstruction of a rotor over the movement is something brands have tried to address over the years. Rather than use a micro-rotor, brands like Audemars Piguet have tried to improve the design of the traditional rotor. To mark the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak they released a number of models which had semi-skeletonised rotors with ‘50 years’ cut into the middle.

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Peripheral BigDate

Elsewhere brands like Carl F. Bucherer have led the way in peripheral technology. A peripheral rotor is one that orbits the periphery of the movement and prevents any obstruction at all. Where the peripheral rotor differs from centrally mounted and micro rotors is that they are not anchored or fixed to the movement. In 2009, after years of hiatus, Carl F. Bucherer revived excitement in the peripheral rotor with calibre CFB A1000. The CFB A1000 uses a system of ball-bearing rollers for increased efficiency and to aid rotation of the rotor with as little friction as possible. Other brands have since followed suit with Vacheron Constantin creating their own peripheral rotor in the Harmony Ultra-Thin Grande Complication Chronograph. This split-second chrono movement uses a solid gold rotor that orbits the outside of the movement. This increases the diameter of the watch but not its thickness.

Vacheron Constantin Harmony Ultra Thin Grand Complication Chronograph with peripheral rotor

The evolution of the mechanical movement to automatic has had a big effect on the watch world. Bypassing the need to wind a watch on a daily basis makes mechanical watches more user friendly. If worn regularly an automatic will easily outlast a smart watch before it needs charging and will in theory outlast a quartz battery.

In a mechanical watch the two methods of delivering power to the mainspring are automatic or manual wind. Both are effective methods of powering your watch and maintaining accurate time keeping. However, with manual wind movements being first on the scene, what is a manual wind movement and how is it different from an automatic?

Before we explore the manual wind in detail, it should be noted that neither manual or automatic is considered better or more preferable over the other. The choice of movement from brands is often decided based on several factors such as the watch type, complications, watch size, and many other elements. There is also little impact on cost or desirability when it comes to automatic or manual wind. Brands like Patek Philippe, Richard Mille and Vacheron Constantin use both in their product line ups. For example, Patek’s Nautilus 5726 with an annual calendar complication, uses an automatic calibre. Whereas the Patek Grand Complications 5470P monopusher chronograph uses a manual winding calibre.

Patek Philippe 5470P 1/10th Second Monopusher Chronograph

The difference between an automatic and manual wind movement can simply be explained as the way in which they provide power to the mainspring. The mainspring is the petrol tank of your watch, it’s where all the energy is stored ready to be deployed through the gears and motion works in order to make the hands move. The ability to store energy requires the mainspring to be wound or coiled. As the spring is wound tighter it holds more energy, which it will release as it unwinds. Think of those wind-up toys you had as kids, the more you wound them up the further they would travel across the living room carpet.

A side-by-side comparison of an automatic movement with rotor and a manual wind movement without

As the name suggests manual wind requires the wearer to manually add power to the mainspring. Most commonly by winding the crown. The easiest way to visually differentiate a manual wind from an automatic is the exclusion of a rotor. A manual calibre doesn’t require a rotor of any sort as the movement can only be powered through winding.

In order to add power to your movement you will typically rotate the crown clockwise and this causes the mainspring to coil. A key feature of a manual wind watch is that they can only wind the mainspring by rotating in a single direction. This is because the winding stem, which is the metal pin that connects the crown to the movement, tightens the mainsping when turned in a given direction. Wind the crown in the reverse direction and nothing will happen. Essentially, the winding stem won’t engage with the winding mechanism connected to the mainspring. Think of it like cycling the pedals backwards on a bicycle, the bike doesn’t start moving backwards, the pedals simply rotate freely.

The exhibition caseback of the Omega Speedmaster

With manual wind watches you need to be adding power at regular intervals to ensure the mainspring has enough energy to continue to operate the watch day after day. Because of this requirement to regularly add power, these movements are not common in dive watches which have a screw down crown to make them water tight. Instead they are better served for watches that are more at home away from water. How about on the moon? Omega’s Speedmaster Profession is arguably the most recognisable manual wind watch on the scene today. With the current generation of Speedmaster it is recommended that you wind the watch every 24 hours. This requires the wearer to complete 20 – 40 turns of the crown to achieve full power.

A. Lange & Sohne Lange 31

Different manual wind calibres will require a different number of rotations and winding intervals. One of the most extreme versions can be found in the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 31. The Lange 31 movement has a 31-day power reserve thanks in large part to not one, but two mainsprings. Each mainspring is approximately ten times longer than a standard mainspring. Winding these springs could be such a time consuming and cumbersome task that the Lange 31 comes with a unique winding key to speed up the process.

Many other watches have also defied convention when it comes to manual winding. Some by removing the crown all together. Perhaps the most extreme of these is the MB&F HM11. The watch itself looks like something out of Star Wars, and the way you wind the watch is by rotating the entire case. Rotate the case through 360 degrees 10 times and the watch will be fully powered. Alternatively, a single 90 degree rotation will give you 72 minutes of power.

In the early days of manual watches the biggest issue was with over winding. Once the mainspring is fully coiled if you continue to turn you are likely to do some serious damage to the winding mechanism and mainspring itself. This could be a big problem and a hefty repair bill. So, how would you know if the mainspring is fully wound or if you should keep winding?

H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Passion Fruit

The addition of a power reserve indicator, first introduced in a production watch by Jaeger LeCoultre in 1948, is one solution of particular importance for manual wind movements. The visual representation of mainspring power, as you’ll find on the H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar, clearly shows when you’re full. As an added safety feature many modern manual wind watches have a stopping mechanism that lets the user ‘feel’ when the mainspring has reached capacity.

The most common stopping mechanism uses a small hook inside the mainspring barrel. This hook catches the end of the mainspring to prevent it winding any further. The wearer will feel the crown hit a point of resistance whereby it doesn’t want to turn any more. This is the signal to stop winding, you’re at max power. In modern watches it’s quite difficult to overwind your manual movement unless you ignore and push past the point of resistance.

Manual Wind Movement Pros and Cons

Manual wind movements have both positives and negatives. If you enjoy the mechanical art of a watch movement and want to be involved in its operation then manual winding might be your preferred calibre.

Left handed watches aren’t new to the market but neither will you find them in abundance. For the first time in its history the automatic Doxa Sub has joined the lefty club with the new Doxa Sub 300T Aristera.

Since the Sub launched in 1969 it’s become a favourite among the Doxa collection thanks to the vibrant orange dial. With this new release Doxa have aimed to stay true to the Sub 300T series aesthetic whilst providing ease and comfort for the left hand wearer. The name Aristera is Greek, meaning left and has a nice symmetry with origins of the Doxa name. Doxa being Greek for Glory.

In essence, a left handed watch simply involves moving the crown from the 3 o’clock position to the 9 o’clock position. This makes the crown more usable for left hand wearers who place the watch on their right wrist. In practice the repositioning of the crown isn’t quite so simple. The crown is connected to the movement so move the crown and the rest of the movement needs to be rotated. In the Doxa Sub 300T Aristera the entire movement has been rotated 180 degrees to accommodate the new crown position. Doxa CEO Jan Edocs noted that “this repositioning required technical adjustments and a revision of the final tests.”

The new Aristera shares many of the same design elements we all know and love from the Sub 300T Professional. The case size remains consistent at 42.5mm x 44.5mm and there is no change to the case material which is made from stainless steel. The date window remains in the 3 o’clock position and as with the Sub 300T Professional the aluminium bezel is unidirectional with the built in no-decompression dive time calculator. Alongside showing the length of your dive time the outer ring of the bezel indicates how long you can remain at each depth without the need to pause for decompression. The no-decompression bezel is a unique feature of many of the Doxa Sub series and was also present on Doxa’s Sub 300T Shark Hunter Clive Cussler Limited Edition from earlier this year.

Apart from the crown’s positioning there is little else to differentiate the Sub 300T Aristera from the Sub 300T Professional. Both carry a 1,200m water resistance and are powered by a Swiss automatic movement decorated by Doxa with a 38-hour power reserve. Take a look at the reverse of the Aristera and you’ll see the usual sailing vessel on the case back. However, in a nice nod to the left hander the sailing vessel is reversed compared to the Aristera’s right handed counterpart.

Included with the standard ‘beads of rice’ stainless steel strap the Aristera comes complete with a black NATO strap with orange centre line. The NATO strap is a new edition to the Sub 300T range and isn’t currently available as standard on the right-hand version.

The Aristeria is a limited edition of 300 pieces of the iconic orange dial only. So, if you’re a left handed Doxa fan you might not want to hang around. The great news with this watch is that it will be a ‘fastest finger first’ situation. Doxa have said that from the 29th August you will be able to pre order the Aristeria from their website and in October the Aristeria will be available at all Doxa points of sale.

In summary, this left handed Sub 300T is for a very select few. With no major changes to the watches design Doxa clearly felt the need to satisfy the left handed customer base. Perhaps they’ve had a few letters and requests from pleading customers. I’ll be interested to see how quickly the 300 watches sell out and if demand was high enough would Doxa then consider left handed versions of other models. At CHF 2,290 (approx £2,045) this Doxa Sub 300T Aristeria is an exciting release for the left handed diver.

More details at Doxa.

In 2022 Ressence revealed a limited production all black Type 3 called the Type 3 BBB. As part of Geneva Watch Days Ressence are bringing back the black with the new, non-limited Ressence Type 3 BB2. The BB stands for Black Black and the name becomes clear once you see the black dial and black titanium case.

Throwback to 2013 and Ressence took the watch world by surprise with the World’s first oil filled mechanical watch in the form of the Type 3. The idea of an oil filled watch seemed like an unusual innovation when Benoit Mintiens unveiled his creation over a decade ago. However, it does have a practical function. On most watches with crystal or acrylic glass it can be a struggle to read the dial in certain light conditions or when the watch is angled away from you. As for digital display watches, you can forget trying to read your watch on a sunny day at the beach. This is where Benoit’s genius use of oil came into play.

The 3.57ml of oil under the crystal of the Type 3 cancels out the distortion caused by the refraction of the light. The result is a watch dial that is legible from any angle and in any light. Further, the visual effect of oil makes it look like the dial, hands and subdials are printed directly on to the sapphire crystal.

Until now, the Type 3 has been available in Black, White and Eucalyptus Green variations. All of which come in a silver coloured grade 5 titanium case. The BB2 adds another dimension to the collection with a pitch black aesthetic. This new look is made possible thanks to the addition of a matt black DLC coated titanium case.

This isn’t the first time we’ve seen this monochromatic approach to the Type 3 from Ressence. The limited production Type 3 BBB (Black Black Black) also used matt black DLC for the case. The BBB was credited with its 3rd B thanks to the removal of any colour from the dial.

In the BB2 the black on black theme is only broken on the dial where Ressenece have maintained their primary colour palette. Hour markers and hands are in white and light grey and this is only punctuated with small colour accents. The day of the week subdial uses green to highlight the weekend and red and blue are used for the temperature gauge.

Typically, a temperature gauge isn’t a complication you associate with watches. However, oil is sensitive to temperature and will expand and contract accordingly. As a result Ressence developed what is known as a Bellows System. This system maintains an even pressure within the oil at all times by self equalising depending on the temperature. The temperature gauge is a visual representation of this Bellows System and can be seen in Type 3 and Type 5 models.

The layout of the Type 3 BB2 remains consistent to the Type 3 range with day and date displays and a running seconds. All are covered with Grade A Super-Luminova. The 44mm case is shaped in the usual pebble design with operation of the self winding movement and setting of the watch made possible by the case back. Apart from the DLC coated case the only other addition to the BB2 is the black honeycomb strap with titanium buckle.

Design has always been at the heart of the Ressence brand and the new Type 3 BB2 has a feather in its cap. As part of the 2024 Red Dot Design Awards the Type 3 BB2 was awarded the ‘Best of the Best’ distinction. Red Dot Awards are a big deal in the design world so this is a big pat on the back for the Ressence design team.

You can see why the Type 3 BB2 has been recognised by Red Dot, the all black design works a treat on this watch. When other brands go monochromatic the watch either becomes unreadable or they have to punctuate the dial with bright colours to provide a modicum of legibility. The brilliance of Ressence is that they can go pitch black and not have to change anything on the dial. It will still be readable. Priced at CHF 38,200 (approx. £34,150) I think this could well be the hero of the Type 3 collection.

More details at Ressence.

In the modern day it’s easy to forget that watches were once more than an accessory. Different types of tool watches were designed to fulfil key functions for specific jobs. They were meant to make your job easier. Today technology and the digital evolution has reduced the reliance on tool watches as actual tools. You no longer buy an Omega Seamaster because you want to take up scuba diving and you certainly won’t see Max Verstappen wearing his Tag Heuer Monaco to keep track of his lap times.

Whilst that might be true, these watches that were built and designed for a purpose are still fully capable of fulfilling their job roles. Therefore, it is important to understand why tool watches function, look and feel the way they do. As watch lovers the design and history of tool watches is what we buy into. And who knows, if you work in one of these professions perhaps these watches will still be practical.

Diver: Dive Watch

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

The dive watch is one of the most common tool watches you’ll find on the market today. The rise of the steel sports watch over the last few decades has meant the dive watch has become a firm favourite in the product catalogues of Rolex, Omega and many others.

A dive watch has a couple of key functions and elements you might be aware of. Firstly, waterproof-ness. This goes without saying in a watch designed for aquatic environments. However, it’s the depth and how this waterproof-ness is achieved that gives the dive watch this function. Almost all dive watches will come with a screw down crown. The crown is fitted on the inside with a seal which when fully screwed down is completely watertight and will hold up under high pressures as you dive deeper.

The other element you will find on dive watches with a high depth rating, such as the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean, is a helium escape valve. This can most readily be seen on the Omega with what looks like an additional crown at 10 o’clock on the case. The helium escape valve is released at extreme depths to alleviate helium gas build up in the watch.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600m GMT with a helium escape valve

Next, dive watches are equipped with unidirectional bezels which only rotate anticlockwise. For those who have ever been diving you will know that timing your dive is incredibly important as it ensures you won’t run out of oxygen. Rotating the bezel allows you to mark when you start your dive. Most dive bezels are then equipped with a 15 minute marker scale as this is a common time frame for diving. The reason the bezel only rotates in a counter clockwise direction is so that it can’t accidentally be knocked forwards and you therefore end up submerged for longer than you should be.

The final element of a dive watch to be aware of is legibility. Reading the time whilst underwater needs to be easy so dive watches don’t have complicated dials. They also have high amounts of lume or super-luminova on the markers and hands so time can be read even in low light.

Pilot: Pilot’s Watch

Longines Spirit Flyback Titanium

Watches have been worn by pilots since the early 1900’s when Louis Cartier created a wrist watch for pilot Alberto Santos Dumont. Since then pilot’s watches have evolved and can include several complications. For example, a flyback or split seconds chronograph is used for measuring flight time in a given direction. This tool watch function was crucial in the early days of flight when navigation systems didn’t exist. A GMT function is extremely valuable when time zones differ between origin and destination and a day/night indicator helps pilots determine whether it’s AM or PM. Which can be confusing when crossing multiple time zones.

Perhaps the best example of a pilots’ watch that helps with the day/night dilemma is the Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute. Which instead of the hour hand completing two rotations in 24 hours only completes one. The dial has 24 hour markers on it, so instead of reading the watch as a 12 hour display you can easily see if it’s 06:00 or 18:00 by the markers.

Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute

Other key attributes to the pilot’s watch are the oversized crown, much like you find on the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch. The crown is larger than usual in order that it can be operated with gloves on. This is a key design element for pilots who are often in full flight gear including thick, insulated, fireproof gloves.

Much like dive watches, legibility is crucial for pilot’s. It’s why you will find many pilot’s watches with diameters of 44mm and above and very few with case sizes smaller than 40mm. This larger case size isn’t the only feature to improve visibility. Pilot’s watches are characterised by high contrast dials, often dark dials with bright white numeric hour markers. The numeral hour marker is important when trying to read the time at a glance. Baton or roman numeral markers would only slow things down.

IWC Big Pilot Top Gun Edition

The final element you will notice on the majority of pilot’s watches is very subtle. Near or around the 12 o’clock position you will notice a small triangle. Often printed on to the dial in red or a contrast colour or painted with lume so it stands out in low light. The triangle shows the pilot instantly which way up the watch should be. The last thing you want is your pilot reading his watch upside down.

Doctor / Medical Professional: Pulsometer

Longines Pulsometer Chronograph

It’s hard to think of how a tool watch function might aid a doctor or nurse in their everyday jobs. That’s until you understand the function of a pulsometer. A pulsometer is an adapted function of the chronograph and characterised by a unique scale on the dial or bezel. The purpose of the pulsometer is to measure a patient’s pulse without the need to count the pulses or beats for a full 60 seconds.

In a pulsometer watch you will find written somewhere on the dial or bezel the number of pulsations you need to count in order to read the scale. Usually it’s 15 or 30 pulsations. Simply start the chrono and count the patient’s pulse, once you’ve counted the desired number stop the chrono and read off the scale to see the patient’s beats per minute. The Longines Pulsometer Chronograph is a great example of a chronograph with a pulsometer display, you’ll notice the text ‘Gradue Pour 30 Pulsations’ written on the outer part of the dial. If you see the phrase pulsometer or pulsations written anywhere on a watch you now know that this isn’t your usual chronograph. It is in fact a tool watch function for medical professionals.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Tru-Beat

One other example of a medical tool watch is the Rolex Tru-Beat. The Tru-Beat, much like a pulsometer watch, was aimed at medical professionals for the sole purpose that it made timing a pulse or heart rate easier. The Tru-Beat uses a deadbeat seconds complication. In short, it’s a mechanical watch that ‘ticks’ like a quartz watch with the seconds hand ticking once per second. A mechanical movement usually gives you a constant sweeping seconds hand.

Soldier: Field Watch

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

Field watches were originally designed for soldiers during the First World War. Military watches started life as pocket watches but as the wristwatch grew in popularity many factions of the military saw the benefits. Fumbling for your pocket watch whilst in the trenches was not ideal.

Very quickly field watches became a staple piece of equipment for soldiers. Their ease of use meant timing and coordination of manoeuvres vastly improved. As you can imagine a soldier’s watch would go through a pretty tough ordeal so delicate and complex movements were not the order of the day. Instead, field watches are known for their simplicity and durability. Take a look at the CWC Mellor-72 and you’ll see what I mean. The Mellor-72 is a recreation of the 1970s British Military W10 watch. The time only, enlarged numerals and thick steel case are iconic of a field watch.

CWC Mellor-72 Mechanical

Case materials on these watches need to be hard robust metals, such as steel. Whereas the straps are usually canvas or leather for two primary reasons. Most importantly these soft materials are lighter and therefore more comfortable for the wearer who will likely be wearing the watch 24/7. Secondly, steel bracelets with links can break if hit hard enough whereas a single piece of leather or NATO style strap can’t be snapped or broken.

Given the types of environments field watches will encounter, a good field watch will be at home near water. They won’t have the depth ratings of a dive watch but a decent level of water resistance and tolerance to dust is essential. As a result, field watch cases will usually be made from a single piece of stainless steel with a single crown. When fully sealed this protects the movement from any foreign materials entering the case.

Finally, simplicity. A soldier’s tool watch has to be accurate, after all, the military are rather fastidious about being on time. Therefore, the traditional field watch is time only so that no power is used to operate any other function and compromise on accuracy. This simplicity is carried over to the dial design. There is no need to clutter the dial with unnecessary paraphernalia. Instead numeric hour markers for ease of reading coupled with high amounts of lume for time telling at night are the only tool watch functions you should find on a true field watch.

Scientist: Magnetic Resistance

Rolex Milgauss

Mechanical watches go well together with many things. Motor racing, deep sea diving, a matching tuxedo. However, they do not pair well with magnetic fields. One sure fire way to ruin the accuracy of your mechanical watch is to place it next to a high powered electromagnetic source. The force from scientific or technological equipment that generates electromagnetic activity has an effect on the components inside the movement, (usually the balance spring and escapement) and can play havoc with the timekeeping.

In most professions this isn’t something to worry about, however for scientists or engineers spending many hours a day inside laboratories with high powered machinery this causes a problem. In 1956 Rolex led the way in producing a watch which could withstand high levels of electromagnetic activity and could be worn by scientists and engineers. The Milgauss was born. The term milgauss refers to the fact that the watch can withstand magnetic fields to the measure of 1,000 gauss. A standard watch is normally about 60 gauss.

The original Rolex Milgauss from the 1950’s

Alongside Rolex other brands have followed suit in creating these scientific watches. The key feature of all these types of watches is that the movement is housed inside a faraday cage. The faraday cage can’t be seen as it sits inside the case. However, this separate housing made from iron or similar materials is what protects the movement from electromagnetic activity. As material science has continued to evolve, modern watches have adopted silicon balance springs and other additional materials to use inside the movement. Further increasing the magnetic resistance of watches.

Yacht Racer: Regatta Timer

Rolex Yacht-Master II

Yacht racing watches, also known as regatta timers, share many similarities to dive watches. A yacht racing watch is worn in or near water so high levels of water resistance are essential, they usually contain a rotatable bezel and offer a timing function that differs from a chronograph. Where the main difference to your traditional dive watch comes in is with this timing function.

Unlike a dive watch where timing of your dive is measured using the bezel the regatta timer does use a separate timing complication. To understand the purpose of the regatta timer you need to understand how the start of a yacht race actually works. Unlike a motor or athletics race lining up all participants on the start line in a stationary position is impossible. Instead, the start of a yacht race is a rolling start whereby your yacht mustn’t cross the start line before a specific time. It is therefore your aim to cross this start line as close to this time as possible whilst travelling as fast as possible.

Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown

To signal the start time the yacht crews are given a 5 or 10 minute countdown warning. It’s then up to the crews to ensure they cross the start line at the right time. The regatta timer is a tool watch function that you will only find on a yacht racing watch such as Frederique Constant Yacht Timer Regatta Countdown. On the Frederique Constant the countdown is signified by a set of circles, one for each minute. As the orange coloured circle moves across the register it signals the countdown to the start of the race. Whilst several regatta timers use this circular representation for the countdown due to how easy it is to see whilst on a boat others revert to the more traditional hand and minute track or sub dial.

Explorer: Explorer Watch

Breitling Emergency from the 1990s, image credit: Watchcollecting

This tool watch function is very niche. In fact, probably the most niche tool watch on this list. In 1995 Breitling released the world’s first watch with a built-in distress beacon. The Breitling Emergency is a chunky dual analogue and digital display wrist watch which contains a radio transmitter only to be used in case of emergency.

In order to activate the distress signal, an antenna needs to be pulled out from the lugs at the bottom end of the case. Once the antenna has been activated a dual frequency distress beacon is emitted and the signal will guide emergence rescue services to your location. At present the Breitling is the only watch on the market with this function, although digital watches like the Apple watch now offer an emergence feature via satellite connection even if you don’t have phone reception.

Racer: Chronograph

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Platinum

The final professional watch on our list which helps you to do your job is a racing watch. Initially designed for racing drivers and their teams the racing watch primarily has two functions. The first to measure lap times and the second to calculate speed.

The most distinguishing feature of a racing watch is the presence of a chronograph. Without a chrono the watch isn’t a racing watch. The chronograph can be a three sub dial layout like the Zenith Chronomaster Sport or a two sub dial layout like the Tag Heuer Monaco. One of the key characteristics to watch out for on the subdials of a racing watch is the contrasting colours. At a minimum you could expect to see the subdials with coloured chapter rings, like on the Rolex Daytona. Or more commonly, the subdials themselves are in an entirely separate colour. These colours are designed to provide high contrast and make the chronograph function easier to read when travelling at high speed.

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Boutique Edition

The second key feature of a racing watch is a tachymeter scale. The tachymeter scale is used to calculate speed by timing how long it takes the car to travel a set distance. The tachymeter scale can be found either on the bezel or around the out edge of the dial. Unlike bezels on dive watches the bezel on a racing watch is fixed and can’t be rotated. This is because the chronograph function can always be reset to zero so the bezel doesn’t need to move.

In general most racing watches will contain a tachymeter alongside a chronograph. However, it’s worth noting that perhaps the most famous racing watch of them all, the Tag Heuer Monaco, doesn’t contain a tachymeter.

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Blue

The final element to look out for on a racing watch is the strap. True racing straps offer breath-ability to the wrist in the form of holes or perforated leather. Racing cars are often ill equipped with luxuries such as air conditioning so the drivers get very hot. A lightweight breathable strap is very much called for. Modern day racing watches have embraced steel straps mainly because the metal will last longer and very few are actually wearing these watches for racing. If you want to spot a true racing watch however a leather or rubber strap is one to look out for.

In the modern day the tool watch functions aren’t fulfilling the roles they once did quite as regularly. However, from time to time these watches still offer practical capabilities that might help you to do your job. For that reason It’s probably best to have one, just in case.

Most watches follow a well established pattern. An hour hand, a minute hand and a seconds hand. Often accompanied by a date function or something similar. However, sometimes watchmakers aim to reinvent the wheel and find alternative ways to display the time. If you remove the hands you still require some other component that will move or rotate as a result of the motion works. Some like the A.Lange & Sohne Zeitwerk, make reading time easier.

Others arguably make it harder, yet are visually more impressive (albeit unusual) time displays than hands pointing at a set of numbered markers. There exists also a group of watches whose complications serve little function except pure enjoyment. Watches with time and date complications that are intentionally over-engineered and complex for the simple purpose that they can be. Watches that represent what happens when you let watchmakers and the design department off the leash just for the fun of it.

MB&F M.A.D Editions MAD1

Max Busser, the founder of MB&F is one of the most highly regarded watchmakers of his generation. His watches range from the sublime to the ridiculous and MB&F are responsible for crafting some of the most technically complicated watches you’ve ever seen. These ‘machines’ as MB&F call them aren’t cheap. They produce around 350 watches a year with the many sporting 6 figure price tags.

Max has always wanted his watches to be enjoyed by all, but the nature of their craftsmanship and engineering means large production numbers aren’t possible. Therefore, in 2021 MB&F launched the M.A.D Editions MAD1 with a sub £3,000 price tag. The purpose of the MAD1 was to bring the craziness of MB&F to the watch world at an affordable price point.

The original MAD1 had a blue dial and was gifted to frends of MB&F as a thank you. The inability to buy one of these caused such a storm that Max and team decided to release red and subsequent green dial versions for sale via a lottery system.

Take a look at the dial of the MAD1 and you’d be forgiven if you couldn’t figure out how to tell time at all. In the usual place of hands you only see a battle axe rotor which looks like it would be more at home in a Kill Bill movie. In Max’s usual non conforming style he’s taken a standard off the shelf Miyota movement, inverted it so it’s upside down, and then connected a high speed axe shaped rotor to charge the mainspring.

So, how do you tell the time? Not by looking at the dial. Look around the outer edge of the case and you will see two rotating rings that cover the circumference of the watch. The top ring shows numbers 1 – 12 to denote the hours, The bottom ring covers 0 – 60 to display time in minutes. The Miyota movement is connected to these two rings which rotate at the relevant speeds. Located on the side of the case is a small stainless steel marker which indicates the point from which you can read the time.

Having the time displayed through the side of the case rather than on the dial is unusual but not as bonkers as you might think. It means you can tell the time without having to turn your watch to see the dial. Glance at your watch whilst the dial is pointed away from you and you can still read the time.

A. Lange & Sӧhne Zeitwerk

A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk with minute repeater and iconic digital time display

The Zeitwerk can be best described as the digital watch with a mechanical movement. It takes the simplicity of a digital time display, showing the time as static numerals, and combines it with the sophistication and elegance of A. Lange & Sӧhne’s L043.6 manual wound movement. In this regard the Zeitwerk is the perfect marriage of automatic watch making and digital display.

In order to understand how the Zeitwork’s time telling capability functions it’s important to understand what a jumping numeral is. A jumping numeral is a disk that sits underneath the dial usually with a small window to display a number written on said disk. Once a specified length of time has passed the disk ‘jumps’ to show the next numeral. The most common application of the jumping numeral can be seen via a date window. Once the time hits midnight the date disk jumps almost instantaneously to display the date of the new day.

This jumping action differs from the constant rotation of a watch hand. Consider a minute hand on a standard mechanical watch. The minute hand is constantly moving as the gears of the movement rotate. The minute hand doesn’t ‘jump’ to the next minute every 60 secs, instead it moves at the speed of a full rotation every 60 mins.

The Zeitwerk’s specialised movement contains not 1 but 3 jumping numeral displays. On the left hand side of the dial you can see the window for the hours and on the right, the window for the minutes. The minutes window contains two jumping hours, one which changes every minute and the other which changes every 10 minutes.

At the traditional 6 o’clock position you have a small seconds sub dial. At the precise moment when the second hand hits the 60 mark the jumping numerals spring into action and the relevant displays jump to show the new time. Check your watch just before the hour and you can be treated to all 3 jumping numerals moving simultaneously.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel

The Starwheel is a relatively unknown and rarely used compilation. Mainly for the fact that it doesn’t actually improve the legibility of time keeping. Other brands have utilised the Starwheel or ‘wandering hours’ complication in the past but in 2022 Audemars Piguet revitalised it with the Code 11.59.

The Starwheel was first used by AP back in 1991 and as a compilation it is considered a piece of high horology but with little practical function. It’s really just watchmakers showing off. Its original inception was back in the 1600’s when Pope Alexander VII requested a clock that didn’t make a ticking sound.

With the Starwheel you have 3 rotating disks in the centre of the dial with seemingly random numbers. The 3 disks rotate as one single component and then each disk also rotates individually. The central rotor, on which all 3 disks are mounted, rotates every 3 hours. Each independent disk then completes a quarter turn every hour. Watching the dial in motion it looks balletic the way the disks rotate seemingly moving around each other. As a visual piece of entertainment the Code 11.59 is Oscar worthy.

Once you get to grips with the Starwheel’s operation, reading the time display is actually relatively straightforward. At the top of the dial you have a minutes scale. In the centre you have the 3 black opaline disks with numbers. These numbers are your hours. The number that is currently at the top of the dial, pointing to the minutes scale, is the current hour. The image above shows the current time of 6:14. The Code 11.59 Starwheel is an advancement on the Audemars Piguet Starwheels of the 1990’s. The latest edition now comes complete with an additional central seconds hand, something that was missing from the originals.

Ulysse Nardin Freak

The Freak is described by Ulysse Nardin as a watch with no hands, no dial and no crown. Thankfully they’ve left behind the case, strap and movement so it’s just about recognisable as a watch. The purpose of the Freak is to put the movement centre stage. In this case the movement is doing a lot of the heavy lifting. Not only is it powering the watch but you use the movement itself to tell time.

The essence of the Freak is similar to that of a tourbillon. A tourbillon is one of watch makings most coveted and eye catching complications. In a tourbillon the escapement, which regulates the time keeping of the watch, rotates. When Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon its purpose was to limit the effect gravity would have on the movement. If the escapement was always rotating gravity wouldn’t be impacting it in the same direction and your watch would be more accurate.

So why are we talking about a tourbillon when the Freak isn’t a tourbillon watch? It’s because it operates in much the same way. The big difference is that Ulysse Nardin set the whole movement to rotate, not just the escapement. This type of movement complication is known as a carousel. Unlike a tourbillon which uses a single power train to drive the escapement and rotate it. A carousel utilises two power trains, one for the operation of the escapement and the second to drive the rotation.

With no crown the Ulysse Nardin Freak One is wound using the caseback

The Freak is cleverly regulated to allow the entire movement to complete a single 360 degree rotation in 60 minutes. You’ll notice how the bridges which hold the movement together are shaped to a pointed arrow at one end so you can use it to read the minutes. As the movement rotates it is connected to a plate which it powers to rotate once every 12 hours. The plate, which sits underneath the movement, contains a marker so you can keep track of the hours.

Finally, you may notice that the Freak has no crown and no obvious way of setting the time. Given you have a watch movement which is constantly moving, a traditional crown was going to be a problem. Instead you set the time and wind the mainspring from the caseback. Flip the watch over and rotate the outer edge around the sapphire crystal to add power and set your desired time.

Trilobe Une Folle Journée

Trilobe is where French design meets Swiss watchmaking. One of the recognisable design patterns of Trilobe is the use of 3 off centre concentric circles on the dial and no watch hands. This design is used across a number of models in their line up. The most striking of the Trilobe collection is the open work Une Folle Journe.

In a similar vein to the M.A.D Editions MAD1 the Trilobe works on a basis of rotating rings. With a traditional watch the hour and minute markers are fixed and the hands move to tell the time. In the Une Folle Journe the hour, minute and second rings move and you read the time from a fixed point. This is signalled by a red marker at the usual 6 o’clock position. Where the MAD1 has two rotating rings the Une Folle Journée has 3. The largest is for hours, the middle for minutes and the smallest for seconds.

The Trilobe ring system is powered by a specialist X-Centric movement, a movement developed in conjunction with specialist watchmaker Le Cercle des Hologers. The movement supposedly took around 5 years to develop. The challenge with creating a calibre that powers 3 rotating rings is weight. The rings are heavier than watch hands and therefore require a fair amount of power to keep them moving. The use of a heavy micro rotor is designed to help keep the mainspring charged up with enough power.

The final piece de resistance for the Une Folle Journée is to elevate the rotating rings to a true 3 dimensional display. Stacking these rings on raised pillars gives the impression that the rings are floating making for a show stopping, if unconventional take on a time only watch.

Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon

Trying to describe the look of the Hublot MP-10 to those who haven’t seen one can be quite tricky. As watch design goes the MP-10 is at the wacky end of the scale and it’s not just the time display that’s different. The movement uses a Weight Energy System in replace of a regular automatic rotor.

On either side of the watch sit two white gold weights which slide up and down the rods. The rods are protected with spring-like shock absorber’s and the movement in either direction of these weights is what drives power to the main spring. In effect the sliding weights work in the same way as an automatic winding rotor.

Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon showcasing the rotating barrel time display

With such a unique power source Hublot kept up the craziness with how the MP-10 displays time. Out go the usual hands and instead two rotating barrels sit pride of place in the centre of the dial. Rotating clockwise the top barrel indicates the hours and the bottom barrel the minutes. The time is read using the red triangular indicated on each barrel.

As if that weren’t enough the MP-10 also includes a tourbillon at the 6 o’clock position. The tourbillon completes a full rotation in 60 seconds and rather cleverly Hublot mounted a seconds marker disk on its outer edge. The tourbillon therefore acts as your seconds timer. With its rotating barrels and tourbillon seconds the Hublot MP-10 alongside the other watches on this list beat your traditional 3 hand register for innovative time displays.

Franck Muller Crazy Hours

Franck Muller is often considered one of the great watchmakers of his generation. The ‘master of complications’ has produced some spectacular watches that are true feats of engineering and at the brand’s peak in the 1990s they were the chosen brand of many a celebrity. In many ways they were the original hype watch brand. Even the tonneau shape we readily associate with Richard Mille today is accredited to Franck Muller. His watches were using the case design long before RM arrived on the scene.

One of the Franck Muller’s more Avant Garde watches is the Crazy Hours. At first glance it doesn’t seem that crazy at all. The signature rectangular or tonneau case shape with a dial and watch hands. Nothing to see here. No triple axis tourbillon, rotating celestial chart or abundance of hands. But take a second look at the dial and you’ll notice the numbers of the hour markers are all out of sync. They don’t follow in sequential order.

Franck Muller Crazy Hours x BWD Arctic Snoopy Limited Edition

This isn’t just some unusual dial design that hypothesises the meaningless of time by jumbling up the numbers. The watch dial is true to form with the movement inside the Crazy Hours jumping the hour hand to the correct hour. From a technical standpoint it’s incredibly impressive, creating a jumping hour complication that depending on the hour will jump to a different place on the dial. For example, as the hour strikes 3 o’clock the hour hand needs to jump from 2 o’clock, which is in the usual 6 o’clock position to the 3, which is in the usual 11 o’clock position.

Once you take that second look at the dial of the Crazy Hours the name makes complete sense. There’s something quite charming and secretive about having a watch this complicated that to the casual observer doesn’t look different from a time only watch at all. It’s a real ‘if you know you know’ sort of watch. That said, using it to tell the time is a bit of a nightmare.

Cartier Santos Dumont Rewind

The Cartier Santos Dumont has been around since 1904 and after 120 years of being one of Cartier’s most iconic models it was time for the brand to do something a little different. Earlier this year Cartier released a new version called the Rewind with a red lacquered dial and red leather strap. Much like the Franck Muller, at first glance there is little to see other than another Cartier Santos with a colourful dial.

The watch uses roman numeral hour markers so it isn’t instantly obvious that there’s something wrong. The eagle eyed, however, will quickly spot that the roman numerals are out of place – not randomly like the Crazy Hours but in a very specific, non-traditional sequence. This is because the Rewind tells time backwards. The hour markers read in a counter clockwise direction while still remaining in sequential order. Therefore, to tell time, the whole movement runs in reverse so that the hour and minute hands run backwards.

In theory reading the time should be as simple as reading the hands of a conventional clockwise directional watch. However, there’s something about the human brain that finds inverting something incredibly difficult to comprehend. In the same way that when you see a mirror image and the left becomes right and right becomes left our brains struggle to interpret it.

Reading the time on the Rewind evokes the same level of confusion. If the minute hand is approaching the 6 o’clock position is this just after the half of the hour or just before? It takes a few seconds for you to work it out. No doubt if you wore the Rewind as a daily watch you’d quickly become accustomed to its quirkiness. Just don’t switch between watches otherwise you’d never know which way to tell the time.

Rolex Day Date Emoji ‘Puzzle’

In 2023 Rolex released a rather puzzling 36mm Day Date. It was available in 3 versions, white, yellow and Everose gold with each version set with 10 coloured baguette sapphires as hour markers. Normally, multi coloured hour markers would be the highlight of any watch but they almost get forgotten because of the craziness of the puzzle piece dial design and the day and date displays.

The day and date displays, although technically I’m not sure we can call them that, is where this Avant Garde complication comes in. Instead of the traditional days of the week and numbered dates Rolex decided to have some fun. The ‘day’ window actually displays 7 different inspirational words – Love, Happy, Eternity, Gratitude, Peace, Faith, Hope. The ‘date’ window, in place of numbers, displays 31 different emojis.

The good thing is Rolex didn’t tamper with the time reading element on this watch. Unlike the Cartier and Franck Muller reading the time is still the conventional three-hand clockwise format. The inspirational words and emojis also still rotate at the same frequency, changing every day at midnight.

I think the biggest surprise with this watch was the divergence from what we had come to expect from Rolex. They tend not to associate with or jump on pop culture trends. This is a watch we might have expected to see from Tag Heuer or Hublot but not from Rolex.

Although these complications seem unnecessary and offer no practical function, perhaps the injection of joy from a smiling emoji and positive affirmation of Love on your watch provides a handy little serotonin boost each day. I suppose if you wanted to you could assign each of the symbols a conventional meaning such as ‘Love = Sunday’ but that would require you knowing what the date is to begin with, which is the opposite point of a calendar watch.

Trilobe Nuit Fantastique

Some brands just like to do things differently. Trilobe is one of those. Look across their entire collection and you won’t find a single conventional watch. They pride themselves on embracing difference, crafting fine and often handless watches. The Nuit Fantastique is one of the core collections from Trilobe and uses the brand’s rotating disks concept to engineer a new method of timekeeping.

The Nuit Fantastique comes in a variety of colours but the key thing is that these time only watches show little resemblance to a traditional watch dial. Look to the outer edge of the dial and you will see the numerical hour markers, so far, so normal. However, where the over-engineering comes into play is in the movement of these markers.

Trilobe decided that moving hands to point to hour markers was far too simplistic. Instead, why not make the hour markers move. The hour markers are mounted on a rotating disk which rotates at one rotation every 12 hours. The Trilobe logo on the dial is fixed and acts as your marker for where to read the hours. The minutes and seconds are displayed as two further rotating disks set off-centre. The minutes shown as a number through an aperture and the seconds shown on a small rotating disk just below.

Much like the Audemars Piguet Starwheel Trilobe have ingeniously engineered a new way for displaying time. The constantly moving disks offer a new dimension to a watch that is solely focused on form over function. You don’t buy a Trilobe because you need to tell the time quickly, that’s what Casio or your phone screen is for. You buy the Trilobe because you love the art of watchmaking and design – being able to actually tell the time is simply a by-product.

Most of these watches aren’t looking to solve any real world problems, they pride themselves on showcasing creativity and eccentricity just for the sake of it. In many ways the watch world could do with more watches like these.

Whether you’re on the hunt for your next watch or simply just window shopping you might want to head to one of the best areas for watch shopping in the UK. In most major cities you can find yourself a Goldsmiths or retailer carrying a small selection of brands. However, there are a few hot spots across the UK which offer the best selection of boutiques. The sorts of places you could happily lose half a day browsing the latest and greatest from Patek Philippe all the way to Hamilton and Longines.

What makes a great place to buy watches is variety. In order to make the list of best places to buy watches we are looking for areas that offer the greatest selection of brand availability. Secondly, a great place to buy watches needs to be a tightly packed area. When time is of the essence you don’t want to be wasting it travelling between stores. Therefore, if you want to spend several hours indulging your passion for watches the locations that follow are a must.

London – New Bond Street

The new Grand Seiko boutique on New Bond Street.

The capital is one of the best places in the UK to buy watches. In fact, it’s not only one of the best in the UK but perhaps one of the best places in the World. It offers more boutiques and brands than any other city. In total there are nineteen Tag Heuer retailers, eleven Omega boutiques and over five Goldsmiths and Watches of Switzerland retail stores. The problem is London isn’t exactly small, however there are two areas of the capital that are of particular importance.

The first is New Bond Street. Located around the corner from Bond Street station and connecting Oxford Street to Green Park, New Bond Street is a near golden mile of watch boutiques. In total there are over 20 watch stores located on this single street. Given New Bond Street’s proximity to West London and the affluent Mayfair area these watch boutiques are often the flagship stores for high end and luxury brands.

F.P. Journe opened their London Mayfair boutique in 2023 just off New Bond Street.

To name just a few you have Zenith, Hublot, Breitling, Blancpain, Omega and Jaeger-LeCoultre. You also have Patek Philippe’s flagship UK store as well as A. Lange & Söhne, Roger Dubuis and Breguet. The presence of these brands all on a single street makes this one of the best places in London to window shop. The density of these market leading brands also draws the attention of some of the unique independents. F.P. Journe’s one and only watch store in the UK is located just off New Bond Street. It was opened in 2023. Towards the Green Park end of the street you will also find a Richard Mille boutique.

Finally, if jewellery and watches are your thing New Bond Street offers the best in jewellery houses. You can drop in to Cartier on your way to Chopard before stopping at Van Cleef & Arpels and finally finishing at Harry Winston.

London – Harrods Fine Watch Department, Knightsbridge

The view from the basement level of Harrods fine watch department.

New Bond Street is the street with the single greatest collection of watch brands, however running for over half a mile you need to be prepared to stretch your legs. If you’d rather stick to the dry and warmth of a single store then Harrods fine watch department is the place to be. It’s like Disneyland for watch collectors.

Located on the ground floor and basement level, the fine watch department is an entire section of Harrods dedicated to luxury watches. As you would expect, all the big brands have their own boutiques for you browse. Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Tudor and many more.

Rolex have one of the largest boutiques in Harrods.

One of the great features about the fine watch department is that you can see all the brands in the same space. For example, there’s a single room dedicated to all brands who don’t have their own boutique. Lining the room are display cases with the likes of H. Moser & Cie, Grand Seiko and Ulysse Nardin. This gives Harrods one of the most diverse brand collections of any single store anywhere in the world.

London – Battersea Power Station

London’s newest watch hot spot can be found just south of the River Thames in the renovated Battersea Power Station. In October 2022 the development for the power station was completed with an ultra modern retail and dining experience offering luxury and high end brands from Aesop to Chanel and even a Polestar dealership. This luxury retail foot print is the perfect setting for watch brands.

Breitling, Tag Heuer, IWC, Tudor and Omega all operate their own boutiques. These single brand stores are then complimented by Watches of Switzerland which further carries the likes of Cartier, Rolex and Hublot. With all these watch brands located within one corner on the ground floor of the power station you won’t have to move very far at all to see your favourites. The only exception is Swatch. A Swatch boutique is located on a different floor in the opposite corner. It feels a bit like the watch equivalent of ‘you can’t sit with us’.

IWC Schaffhausen’s boutique at Battersea Power Station.

The IWC boutique in particular is a highlight, at over 200 square meters it’s one of their larger stores. In keeping with the modern aesthetic of the power station the store boasts glass-less display cases which IWC say is to ‘offer a more open and tactile product experience’.

Edinburgh – Princes Street Area

If you live in Scotland or happen to be in Edinburgh for a weekend away, (which we highly recommend it’s an incredible city), the Princes Street Area is the ideal place to buy watches. Princes Street is one of the prominent streets in the city and sits in the shadows of Edinburgh Castle.

Regarded as a great shopping area in general the region boasts several large watch retailers including Watches of Switzerland, Goldsmiths and Laing’s. Between them, these three cover all your usual luxury and high end brands from Rolex to Tag Heuer, Cartier and many others.

Omega’s modern boutique in the centre of Edinburgh.

If you venture slightly off Princes Street towards George Street, another of Edinburgh’s top shopping destinations, you’ll find a variety of individual brand boutiques. The highlights from the luxury end of the market include Hublot, Vacheron Constantin, Breitling and Omega. Edinburgh has a lot to offer and if it’s not just the high end brands you’re looking for, they’ve got you covered.

On Princes Street itself you have a large Swatch store where you can find your MoonSwatches and Blancpain Scuba Fifty Fathoms series among the usual Swatch collections. There’s also Chisolm Hunter, James Porter and H. Samuel who between them carry everything from Seiko to Hamilton, Casio, Tissot and Rado. What makes Edinburgh a stand out for watches is the variety from your entry level Casios to haute horology Vacheron Constantin and everything in between. All of this can be seen and purchased within a few hundred metres of each other.

Liverpool – City Centre

Goldsmith’s in Liverpool is one the retailers largest stores in the UK.

Head to the centre of Liverpool and you will be spoilt for choice for watch retail. In a city the size of Liverpool you can expect your usual Tag Heuer and Omega boutiques. Yet, Liverpool has a lot more to offer. Within the city centre you’ll find several large retailers with incredible spaces dedicated just to watches.

The Goldsmiths on Paradise Street is one of the retailer’s larger stores and decked out to a high specification it’s a great place to leisurely browse your favourite brands. Tudor, Zenith, Cartier and a dedicated Rolex space there’s more than enough to keep most happy. However, if you’re looking for something a little different a short walk round the corner will take you to David M Robinson. A family owned business with six stores across the UK, the Liverpool One store is the flagship in the portfolio. As an official retail outlet for Patek Philippe, IWC and Rolex they offer a few different brands for consideration.

A combination of single brand boutiques and larger multi-brand retailers, Liverpool’s city centre offers everything you’re likely to need from the big brands.

Leeds – City Centre

Panerai’s stylish boutique on Leeds Commercial Street.

In the centre of Leeds just a stone’s throw from the central station you’ll find a selection of watch boutiques and retailers to keep you entertained for an afternoon. Commercial Street in particular is a hot spot for watches. You’ll find Tag Heuer, Omega, IWC and Jaeger-LeCoultre all pretty much next to each other.

Commercial Street also offers the city’s best watch retailers with Goldsmiths, Chisholm Hunter and Ernest Jones all nearby. Between these retailers you will find a wider brand footprint including Rolex and then some of lower price brands in Casio, Tissot, Tudor and Seiko. Several other smaller and independent jewellers and retailers can be found in the city centre with many stocking brands like Zenith, Breitling, Panerai and Grand Seiko.

Leeds city centre is the best place to buy a watch in the region. The majority of outlets are retailers and jewellers rather than single brand boutiques but this is no bad thing. With plenty of different brands on offer from trusted retailers it wouldn’t be a bad place to begin building a relationship with an authorised dealer.

Birmingham – Bullring Shopping Centre

Goldsmiths in the Bullring is split over two floors.

The Bullring is Birmingham’s largest and most iconic shopping destination. Along with a vast shopping centre offering everything from department stores to high street fashion and restaurants. The bullring is also well represented with jewellery and watch retailers. Alongside Tag Heuer, Omega and Breitling boutiques you also have British brand Bremont. Bremont’s retail footprint isn’t huge. With only ten stores (five in London) across the UK the Bullring is one of the few places to shop the Bremont range in person.

Outside of the brand boutiques, the Bullring offers the usual Goldsmiths carrying Rolex, and Ernest Jones for entry level timepieces. The other great attraction of the Bullring is its own Watchfinder boutique. Predominantly an online retailer of pre-owned watches, Watchfinder do have a selection of bricks and mortar stores affording you the opportunity to view any of the over 50 brands they stock in person. The addition of Watchfinder in the Bullring gives the opportunity to shop a variety of different brands as well as vintage and pre-owned watches.

Patek Philippe’s London boutique is the only one in the UK.

On balance you’d have to say we are spoilt for choice when it comes to watch shopping in the UK. We have brand boutiques in all areas of the country and authorised retailers in the majority of city centres. There are few countries that can compete with the variety and abundance of brands that can be bought directly from our retail outlets. Or even the London vintage watch scene.

Brands like Patek Philippe have their own stores in Geneva, New York and London. F.P. Journe only has three boutiques in Europe, one of which is in the UK. We then have a nationwide retailer in Goldsmiths who are an authorised Rolex dealer giving you access to Rolex almost anywhere in the country. You’d have to say outside of Switzerland, is there anywhere better in Europe than the UK to purchase your next watch? Probably not.

Last month Bulgari reclaimed the world record for world’s thinnest watch with their latest Octo Finissimo Ultra. They took back the record from Richard Mille who’s Ferrari collaboration in 2022 snatched the title from them. Seeing RM and Bulgari trade this record over the last few years got us thinking about other brands that have produced world record watches.

Setting a world record is a bit of a badge of honour for a brand. It gives them something to shout about and a genuine sense of achievement. There’s no question Bulgari’s latest record is an impressive feat of engineering. At just 1.7mm thin you have to wonder how much further we can go. Your move Richard Mille. For now let’s take a look at other notable watches that have world records to their name.

The Lightest Watch Ever Made: Ming LW.01

The Ming LW.01 is believed to be the lightest watch ever made. At its release it was offered in two variants. An automatic version weighing 10.8g and a manual wind version which tips the scales at just 8.8g. It weighs the same as 9 paper clips. To put this in perspective the non mechanical Moonswatch weighs 29 grams.

With a watch this light weight you might expect the lightness to have been achieved through size. That’s not the case. The Ming measures 38mm in diameter and 6.5mm in thickness. So, not especially small. Instead the commitment to lightness has been achieved through material science. The case is made from a magnesium compound which is incredibly light and 75% lighter than steel.

Elsewhere weight saving can be seen across the dial and crystal. For starters there is no dial in the traditional sense. Instead the movement holder is combined with a small dial ring. The hour markers, which would normally appear on the dial, are instead printed on the underside of the crystal. Even the crystal itself isn’t your usual sapphire, it’s made from Corning Gorilla glass which has received specialist hardening treatment to improve scratch resistance. Whilst it’s not as tough as sapphire crystal it is nearly half the weight.

The final touch from Ming’s designers is to use a gradient colour print on the centre of the crystal. The coloured crystal hides the movement and to the glancing eye makes the watch look like it contains a traditional dial.

Limited to 200 pieces this world record watch offered the purchasers a variety of strap options to choose from. The stand out option being a 1.2g single layer alcantara strap. This takes the overall weight of your watch to 10g. The same as 2 sheets of A4 paper.

Smallest Mechanical Watch Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101

Whereas the Ming was a technical innovation from 2023 for this world record watch we need to head back to 1929. Jaeger-LeCoultre produced the Calibre 101 at a time when women’s jewellery and wrist wear was all the rage. Through the 1920’s bangles and bracelets were popular so Jaeger-LeCoultre saw an opportunity to create a watch movement which was small enough to integrate into a piece of wrist jewellery.

Measuring 14mm by 4.8mm and weighing just 1 gram. The 101 was reserved for high jewellery pieces only. Think precious metal and diamond covered bracelets. What’s impressive is Jaeger-LeCoultre still makes the Calibre 101 today and staying true to its original purpose the calibre can be found only in the 101 Collection. A collection with minute and hidden watch faces. At present the 101 is in its 4th generation. Today’s version contains 98 individual components compared to 78 that were used in the original.

Perhaps the most famous use of the Calibre 101 can be seen on the wrist of Queen Elizabeth II at her coronation in 1953. On this day the Queen sported a diamond set watch bracelet with the Calibre 101. The watch was a gift from the then president of France, Vincent Auriol.

Most Expensive Watch Ever Sold At Auction: Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime 6300-A010

Unsurprisingly the most expensive watch ever sold at auction comes from Patek Philippe. The Grandmaster Chime is a collection of timepieces of which Patek makes very few each year and in the past has been seen on the wrists of Jay-Z and Mark Wahlberg to name a few. The Grandmaster Chime in any reference is a special piece. Containing approx. 20 different complications the watch has two sides so you can rotate the case 180 degrees to reveal a different dial.

Patek don’t publicise the price of the Grandmaster Chime collection but expect to be around the £3million mark just for starters.

Jay Z’s Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300G

The world record Grandmaster Chime sold in 2019 for a staggering CHF 31million (approx. £27.4million). This version was a piece unique sold by Christie’s auction house as part of the Only Watch event. Only Watch is a charity event held in Geneva each year which auctions watches provided by some of the biggest brands in the industry to help fund research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Only Watch tends to grab headlines as every watch auctioned is a one of a kind. Collectors flock to break out their cheque books to try to secure incredible pieces from the likes of F.P Journe, Hublot, Blancpain, MB&F and many others.

The Only Watch event for 2024 took place just last month and Patek were centre stage once again. Their auction piece the Grand and Petite Sonnerie ref. 6301A sold for approx. £13.8 million making it the 4th most expensive watch ever sold at auction and the most expensive sold since 2019.

Patek Philippe ‘Only Watch’ Grand and Petite Sonnerie ref. 6301A sold for CHF 15.7 million (approx. £13.8 million)

Given it’s prominence as Patek’s most complicated and prestigious watch the Grandmaster Chime usually comes in precious metal. Very much in keeping with the price. The interesting thing about the world record piece is it was the first and only steel Grandmaster Chime ever made. 31 million and not even in gold.

Other notable characteristics are the dial colours in ‘golden opaline’ (salmon pink to you and I) and ebony black. A colour combo not used on any other version. And the cherry on the cake is the text – The Only One – written inside the alarm dial in the 12 o’clock position. A Patek piece unique with ‘The Only One’ written on the dial is quite the showstopper.

Highest Water Resistance Watch: Rolex Deepsea Challenge

This category for world records is a bit fickle. On the surface of it the Rolex Deepsea Challenge holds the record for the watch which can withstand the greatest depths. It has been tested to withstand pressure equivalent to 11,000m (39,060 feet). At this depth the pressure is over 16,000 PSI or to put it another way the pressure is equivalent to 1,130 kilograms per square centimetre. At this depth even submarines would be crushed so for a watch to survive is more than impressive.

The Deepsea Challenge indisputably holds the record for ‘production watch with the highest water resistance rating’. Where depth records can get tricky is the Rolex Deepsea Challenge has only been lab tested to these depths. That’s to say it’s not actually been down to 11,000 metres.

Film director James Cameron with a Rolex Deepsea Challenge during his 2012 dive

The record for a watch that has been the deepest is a whole other story. Whilst no watch has reached 11,000m Rolex have come close on two occasions. Most recently, James Cameron’s dive to the Mariana Trench in 2012 included an experimental Rolex Deepsea Challenge as he plummeted to a depth of 10,908m. This was only the second time any human had ever been to this depth. The first was back in the 1960’s when as part of the Trieste Bathyscape dive a prototype Rolex Deep Sea Special went to 10,916m.

Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep

To this point Rolex were the undisputed captains of the deep sea having taken watches to the Pacific Ocean’s deepest point on two separate occasions. However, Omega weren’t resting on their yachts and had their own deep sea exploration in the works.

Roll around to 2019 and Omega launched their own attempt to snatch the depth record from Rolex. American Victor Vescovo set off on the first manned expedition to the very bottom of the Mariana Trench. With him he took an Omega Seamaster, eventually reaching a depth of 10,935 metres. They beat the Rolex record by 19 metres, less than the length of a tennis court.

Worlds Most Complicated Watch: Vacheron Constantin Berkley Grand Complication

You might recall the most expensive watch from this list was the Patek Grandmaster Chime with an impressive 20 complications. Ask any watch enthusiast and they would be hard pressed to reel off the names of 20 complications. Imagine then a watch that contains a total of 63 complications!

This world record for most complicated watch ever made is held by Vacheron Constantin’s Les Cabinotiers Berkley Grand Complication unveiled this spring and it’s actually a pocket watch. The 63 complications are too many to name here but as well every complication you can currently think of some of the highlights include: a Chinese perpetual calendar, a Hebrew calendar, sunrise and sunset indicators and a triple axis tourbillon.

Much like the Grandmaster Chime the pocket watch has two sides which are much needed to display the complications, subdials and 31 hands.

In total the watch contains 2,877 individual components and was produced by the same team who made the ref. 57260 which first claimed the title of most complicated in 2015 with its 57 complications after 8 years of development.

The person who commissioned the new Berkley Grand Complication has remained anonymous (except that it is confirmed Berkley is their name) so the price has not been disclosed and we can only speculate about its value. I just hope the collector keeps the watch wound otherwise it might take another 8 years just to set it.

‘If it ain’t broke don’t fix it’ seems to be the mantra by which many of the large brands in the watch industry have been living by in recent years, dining out on heritage collections year after year. As a result, it’s been left to the independent watch brands to deliver innovation in an effort to drive the watch industry forward. It begs the question why are the larger watch brands slow to innovate and are independents the future of the watch industry?

This dichotomy has been once again showcased by the releases from the latest instalment of Watches & Wonders. In the weeks running up to the event the rumour mill was in full flow. There was speculation about what Rolex, Patek Philippe and others would be releasing – exciting dreams of revived Milgausses and cutting edge Calatravas.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde 40mm

Instead, we received minor adjustments to existing models. You only have to take a cursory look at social media to get the gist of how the watch community viewed these latest releases from these big brands. Underwhelming is perhaps the polite way to put it.

By contrast the independent brands delivered the show stopping releases. Prior to Watches & Wonders there was little chatter about what the likes of Czapek or Parmigiani Fleurier would release. Or what new watches we might see from DeBethune. Yet, all these brands and many others had exciting pieces to unveil.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch White Dial

Perhaps the best example of established names regurgitating the same concepts comes not from Watches & Wonders but the recent Omega Speedmaster 310.30.42.50.04.001. A great looking watch no doubt, however, the only real change is to the dial colour. Furthering the narrative that Omega’s Speedmaster gets tweaked and tinkered with too often without anything actually changing.

How does Omega get away with this? Well, that’s down to shrewd marketing. After Daniel Craig was spotted wearing a previously unknown white Speedy at an Omega event in November 2023, interest went through the roof. This is the perfect example of marketing and PR working seamlessly to create a buzz even before the official release. All with the purpose of continuing to drive volume sales of the Speedmaster line up. I suspect it will be successful. It’s a great looking watch and kudos to Omega for creating such hype over what amounts to a white dial. But it doesn’t get the blood pumping.

Rolex GMT-Master II 126710 GRNR, not the GMT colour combo many wanted to see

In part brands like Omega are a victim of their own success. The Speedmaster is one of the most iconic watches in the world and it’s a great seller for the brand. Omega knows the Speedy sells and at the end of the day it’s a business and they no doubt have Swatch group targets to meet. One small change to the existing product, some clever PR and Omega can continue to sell thousands of Speedmasters.

Being responsible for creating some of the world’s most iconic watches is one way to stifle innovation. It removes any true incentive to create something new or push the boundaries. Even Rolex aren’t immune to this. They are often criticised more than any other for simply updating colours or changing case sizes by 1mm. The Rolex releases for 2024 included a new colourway GMT-Master II in steel. This version contained the black and grey bezel we’d already seen in 2023’s Rolesor edition. Hardly pushing the envelope of creativity.

Rolex first guilloché dial comes in the platinum case Perpetual 1908

To give them their due, Rolex did release a platinum 1908 with a guilloché dial, the first ever guilloché dial from Rolex. However, even this didn’t set pulses racing among the watch community. Because it didn’t go far enough. The new 1908 is a platinum watch with an icy blue dial, which is combination we’ve seen dozens of times before. Even when Rolex try something new, they still stay close to the tried and tested.

Patek and Vacheron Constantin only provide yet more examples of this. Arguably two of their most successful models in the Nautilus and Overseas received only the slightest revamp. The Nautilus 5980 was given a new blue dial with a denim colour strap. You know it’s a slow year when a denim strap is the biggest surprise. Vacheron opted for green and pink gold with three new Overseas watches, all of which are spectacular, but gold and green has been done before. An entire year of development and this is what the world’s biggest and best watch brands came up with.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph in a familiar green and pink gold combo

In the interest of balance, the watch industry is thousands of years old. It is unfair to expect consistent yearly innovation when hundreds of years of R&D have gone before. Compare watches to smart phones, an industry that’s a complete baby at barely 20-years-old. In recent years the rate of innovation has slowed even from the likes of Apple. For a consumer the jumps between early versions of the iphone appeared substantially greater than some of the current models. Amplify this to an industry that’s thousands of years old and whose product is mechanical and it’s understandable why change takes time.

To give you an analogy, the big brands are like the lion in a zoo. They’re the main attraction, always on show and with nowhere to go. Independent watch brands are like the wild cheetah, free to go wherever they want, with little responsibility for setting their own boundaries. After all, if you don’t boast a world renowned model in your line-up, what sets you apart in the minds of collectors is your ability to do things differently and to innovate.

DeBethune DB28 XS Purple Rain with purple titanium case

Take DeBethune. A small independent watch brand whose latest release, the DB28 XS Purple Rain uses an innovative way of creating a colourful and stylish metal case. Normally coloured cases are achieved through the use of sapphire or ceramic. In this case DeBethune uses the chemical reaction caused by heating titanium to create a purple coloured titanium case.

The result is a striking case that’s also super lightweight and which feels new and exciting within the industry. When you consider that it was only last year that Rolex launched their first titanium watch with YachtMaster RLX, it’s apparent that they are so far behind in comparison to what brands like DeBethune are doing with the same material.

Czapek Promenade Goutte d’eau

One of the standouts from Watches & Wonders this year came from Czapek with their Promenade collection. The highlight can be seen in the Goutte d’Eau edition which uses Grand Feu enamel for the dial. The ability to be able to work the enamel in such a way that creates the ripple of water effect is spectacular and results in a dial that you won’t find anywhere else. Brands like Czapek rely on their ability to do the unconventional in order to grab headlines.

Had they simply updated their Antarctique model with a new coloured dial I wouldn’t be writing about it. Instead by doing something different it drives awareness. More of the watch loving public get to know them and appreciate the capabilities of brands like this.

H Moser & Cie Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Alpine

Another big change driving the growth of independent watch brands in recent years is the fact that established brands no longer have a monopoly on quality and accurate time keeping. Historically brands like Omega, Cartier and Rolex relied on their high quality to set them apart from the rest.However, these days independents can deliver accurate movements and finishing quality to rival and even exceed the biggest names. H Moser & Cie’s Streamliner Alpine showcases this better than most. An in-house tourbillon movement with impeccable precision and a skeletonised domed blue dial with the highest level of finishing. It’s a piece of haute horology which rivals any household brand.

This drive towards the new and the different from independents is what will drive the watch industry forward in years to come. Independents are growing quickly and it’s all because they offer something exciting and they constantly innovate. Will the big brands eventually take note and become more daring or are they too focused on brand and marketing over product innovation? They have the budgets and resources to shape the future of the watch industry, but for now the lions remain in their cages.

Tag Heuer have been producing watches under the Carrera banner for over 60 years and the new colourway Carrera Chronograph draws on some of that original 1960s inspired design. But don’t worry, the modern Carrera aesthetic hasn’t been lost with the latest ‘glassbox’ sapphire crystal carried over from 2023’s releases. Tag Heuer themselves describe this new Carrera Chronograph panda as a blend of ‘historical reverence with cutting-edge design’.

The stand out feature of the watch is the panda dial. However, it comes with a slight twist. We are used to seeing pandas with the usual black and white combo, yet, this Carrera pairs black sub dials set against a brushed silver sunray dial. This colour combination is a throwback to the second series Carrera, the 7753 SN of the late 1960s. The initials SN were denoted in reference to ‘Silver’ and ‘Noir’. A slightly curious decision to mix both English and French in the name. Despite heralding from nearly 60 years ago the 7753 SN has hit headlines more recently thanks to the Ford V Ferrari film where Matt Damon, as Carroll Shelby, wears an original Heuer Carrera 7753.

There are a couple of key differences between the original Carrera panda and this new edition. The new chronograph utilises a tri-compax layout and in the name of symmetry positions a date window at 6 o’clock. The 1960s version was a bi-compax chronograph with no date window. In order to maintain as much of the 1960s aesthetic as possible the 6 o’clock seconds are almost disguised against the silver sunray dial. It begs the question if Tag Heuer wanted to truly honour the 7753 SN why not remove the 6 o’clock seconds all together and stick with a bi-compax layout. In a similar vein to Tudor’s Black Bay Chrono.

The use of contrasting colours for the dial and sub dials is all in aid of improving legibility. This was a key component of Jack Heuer’s original designs which he showcased by matching black sub dials with white hands. The 2024 release takes legibility a step further with the application of red lacquered hands on the 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock black azuré registers. The use of red accents give the watch a sporty racing look whilst still offering a nod of appreciation to Heuer’s original concept.

Tag Heuer’s now iconic glassbox design sees the 39mm case encapsulate the tachymeter within the domed sapphire crystal. A continuation of last year’s blue and black dial Carrera Chronographs, the glassbox concept is set to become a staple of the modern Carrera. Expect to see future releases continue this design signature.

The modernisation of the 1960s Carrera Chronograph Panda is complete with 3 link steel bracelet and an open case back. The case back displays the newly designed shield rotor with semi skeletonisation to help showcase the in house Heuer 02 movement. Regarded as one of the best value chronograph movements around, the Heuer 02 boasts an impressive 80 hour power reserve.

In summary, the panda chronograph is likely to be the hero of the Carrera Chronograph line up. The silver dial is a nice touch over the traditional white dial panda’s we’ve all come to expect and the red accents really stand out. I would have loved to see Tag stay true to the original with a bi-compax layout and you could argue about the necessity of the date window. Priced at £5,900 Tag Heuer have packed a lot into this new release.

More details at Tag Heuer.

In recent years we have seen a growing trend towards new watch case materials beyond the usual steel and gold. Stainless steel might still be the most popular however, watch cases have seen large innovation with the use of alternative materials becoming more commonplace. Look at many recent new releases and there’s a high chance you’ll find a model variant made from titanium, ceramic, bronze, sapphire or another innovative material.

This growth is in part due to two primary factors. The first is the push by the industry to innovate and create new and exciting products. Brands can often face a backlash if their new releases don’t hit the mark or seem too boring. A 1mm change in case size just won’t cut it with the watch community these days. Instead watch enthusiasts want to see changes and updates that they can get excited about, and crafting a watch out of a material other than steel or gold is a great way to grab attention. Secondly, the advancements in material science over the last 20 years have now made the possibilities for differing case materials infinitely more possible. And cheaper!

Stainless steel has been a mainstay of the watch world since the 1970’s. The main reasons for its longevity as a brand favourite are its hardness and resistance to corrosion. Unlike many metals it doesn’t rust, corrode or oxidise meaning it won’t discolour over time. Rolex in particular takes the anti corrosion aspect of steel very seriously. Rolex steel watches are made from 904L stainless steel, where most other brands use 316L stainless steel. So what’s the difference? In short, 905L contains additional amounts of Nickel and Copper. It’s the copper in particular which adds an additional level of corrosion resistance.

Piaget Polo 79

Stainless steel hasn’t always been the favourite of the watch industry. Because of its hardness it is incredibly difficult to mould and shape. Therefore, softer materials like gold were preferred until the introduction of high powered machines made steel easier to work with. To put this into perspective 18 carat gold has a rating of around 2.8 on the MOHS hardness scale whereas steel has a rating of 6. Despite the benefit of steel, gold is still a frequently used material due to its precious metals status. Let’s not forget gold is a traded commodity so has more value, (hence the price tag). It also comes with status and a considerable amount of weight at more than double the density of steel.

For decades steel and gold have been the poster children of watch materials, but now there are some new kids on the block hoping to attract your attention. Let’s take a look at some of the most popular new watch case materials.

Platinum

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar

Platinum is often seen as the pinnacle of watch making. If gold is a step above steel then platinum is a level above gold. This is best highlighted by Rolex who reserves platinum for the heroes of their catalogue in the Platinum Day Date and Platinum Daytona. In order to signify their superiority Rolex platinum references are offered with an ice blue dial. A dial colour that Rolex doesn’t offer in any other watch.

Platinum is regarded as one of the most precious metals on earth, it is rarer and usually more expensive than gold. It’s also considerably heavier with the added weight giving it a more premium feel. As a precious metal it’s not as hard as steel so it can scratch and dent. It’s why it’s rarely used in sports watches and instead reserved for dressier watches.

One of the best examples of this is the A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Calendar. The 42mm platinum case version on a black leather strap representing one of the most sophisticated perpetual calendar watches available. Platinum has a couple of other benefits up its sleeve. As a naturally occurring white metal it won’t tarnish, unlike white gold which will need polishing from time to time to return it to its original shine. It’s also slightly harder than gold making it marginally more scratch resistant.

Sterling Silver

Tudor Black Bay Fifty Eight 925

Keeping with the theme of precious metal, sterling silver isn’t a material you see very often in watch making. Yet, it is a mainstay of the jewellery scene. This is mainly because of its softness and high level of oxidation. In levels of tensile strength silver sits just below gold and someway off the strength of steel. Even in the early days of watchmaking when softer metals were preferred due to their malleability, gold was always the preference over silver. In today’s modern world where we are turning towards harder and stronger materials such as carbon and ceramic, it’s hard to see where silver would find its place.

One of the drawbacks of silver can also be one its advantages. High levels of oxidation. Oxidation will tarnish a watch over time and cause it to change colour as the silver reacts with oxygen in the atmosphere. With silver this tarnish tends to take on a yellow-ish tinge. This natural tarnish, or patina, is liked by many as it gives the watch character and makes it unique. The counter argument to this is why would you want a watch to turn yellow when it’s a beautiful shiny silver colour? It’s really a personal preference.

One of the benefits of silver over steel is its shine. When new, silver watches are brighter than steel and in contrast can make steel look like a duller metal. This is the main reason sterling silver is used more in jewellery. Brands like Tudor have made attempts to try and harness the benefits of silver and negate some of the drawbacks. In the Black Bay Fifty Eight 925 Tudor created a sterling silver watch made from their own silver alloy. This alloy was designed to hold the colour of silver longer and tarnish less compared to pure silver.

Bronze

Oris Divers Sixty-Five ‘Cotton Candy’ collection

From one oxidising metal to another. Bronze shares the same tarnishing and chameleon colour changing ability as silver. The difference with bronze is that the colour takes on more of a rustic gold type appearance which many feel is more pleasing on the eye. With all watches that tarnish you never know what you’re going to get. Every watch reacts differently and the amount of wear, sunlight and water exposure will all affect the overall appearance. On the one hand this might stop you getting bored with a watch as it patinas and takes on a new look. On the other hand you need to be aware that the new watch you just bought won’t stay looking that way unless you’re prepared to polish it regularly.

Bronze is an alloy made predominantly from copper and tin with the likes of zinc, aluminium and other metals added to help improve its characteristics. In the past bronze has been the metal of choice in nautical equipment and anything based near water due to its high levels of corrosion resistance.

The big drawback for bronze is that it doesn’t react well with your skin. In most instances bronze watches will use steel or another material for the case back so that bronze isn’t in direct contact with the skin. Even the Oris Divers Sixty Five Cotton Candy, an entirely bronze watch, comes with a stainless steel case back. If bronze does come in to direct contact you’ll often find green marks appearing on your wrist. This is caused by the copper reacting with the chemicals in your skin and sweat.

Titanium

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium

The first thing you will notice with Titanium is that it is light. When you first pick up a titanium watch the weight can be quite alarming. It feels like they forgot to put the movement in. In fact titanium is about half the density of steel so you can expect it to weigh up to 50% less. For comparison the Rolex Yacht Master RLX Titanium weighs in at just 100g whereas the stainless steel Rolex Submariner tips the scales at 160g. Don’t forget the Submariner is also 1mm smaller in diameter. Unlike our silver and bronze watches titanium doesn’t tarnish and is also highly resistant to corrosion. Corrosion isn’t something you face very often with a watch but it’s good to know that if you dunk your titanium watch into salt water on a regular basis it won’t suffer any ill effects.

In watch making there are typically two different types of titanium which are most commonly used, Grade 2 and Grade 5 titanium. Grade 2, considered pure titanium, is a softer element which makes it difficult to create a variety of finishing options. When using steel a watchmaker has many options to choose from when they finish a watch. They can create a high polished finish, a brushed, satin or even matte look depending on how the steel is manufactured. With titanium the best way to achieve these different levels of finish is to use Grade 5 which thanks to the inclusion of aluminium and vanadium is significantly stronger. This grade of titanium is therefore better suited to polishing and finishing, however due to the complexity of manufacturing Grade 5 watches are often more expensive.

Sapphire

Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire 42

Sapphire in watches isn’t a new thing. Sapphire crystal has been used consistently since the 1970s as the transparent scratch resistant dome over the watch face. The ability to machine a circular piece of sapphire to create the window for reading the dial has been well and truly mastered. However, using sapphire to craft an entire watch case is a different story.

The biggest challenge with sapphire cases is that they need to be made from a single piece of sapphire. Creating the synthetic sapphire requires heating aluminium oxide to extreme temperatures until you are left with a transparent block of sapphire crystal. From this block your watch case needs to be shaped. What makes working with sapphire so difficult is the hardness. On the MOHS hardness scale Sapphire sits just behind diamond at the top of the class. The benefit of sapphire then is that diamond is about the only material that is hard enough to scratch it.

This great benefit comes at cost. That large block of sapphire that needs shaping into a watch case is so hard that try to cut or drill it with metal machinery you won’t get very far. Instead a set of very expensive and specialist diamond tipped machines are required. This challenge is what makes watches like the Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire so impressive. These sapphire cased watches are incredibly difficult and time consuming to make but the outcome is a show stopping masterpiece of material science with a price tag to match.

Ceramic

Omega Seamaster Diver 300m ‘Summer Blue’ 75th Anniversary

Ceramic is a material significantly on the rise and not one associated with watch making until 1984 when IWC introduced a ceramic version of their Da Vinci model. You’d be forgiven for thinking ceramic is a material better suited to kitchenware and decorative vases and therefore a terrible material for a watch. However, ceramic describes an in-organic, non metal material created through extreme heat. Because of this broad definition everything from diamond to glass and even sapphire can be classed as a ceramic.

In the instance of ceramic watch cases the material usually starts life as an oxygen or carbon based compound. The most common is zirconium oxide. Look closely and you’ll see the text ‘ZrO2’ on the dial of the Omega Seamaster Diver 300. This ceramic compound in powder form is subjected to huge amounts of pressure and heat until it creates a solid, extremely strong and scratch resistant material.

IWC Big Pilot Top Gun Woodland and Lake Tahoe

These key features are some of the main reasons ceramic has been a material on the rise. Compared to steel, ceramic is typically 4 times harder. In practice this means your watch will maintain its showroom look without collecting any hairline scratches. The hardness of ceramic means, as with Sapphire, it’s time to break out those specialist diamond tipped tools once again. The other main benefit of ceramic over metal compounds is the ability to create colours. Whilst gold gives you white, yellow and rose options with ceramic you can pretty much have any colour you want. The IWC Lake Tahoe, for example, has a white case – a colour that could only be achieved with ceramic.

This all sounds very idyllic so far, unfortunately ceramic has a couple of drawbacks that stop it being the material of choice among watch brands. As you can probably guess, ceramic is very difficult to make and to work with. There are several reports of brands suffering very high failure rates when working with ceramic, which means several attempts to make your watch end up in the bin. Secondly, whilst ceramic is extremely hard it’s not very tough and this can be a problem. Drop it or hit it hard enough and it can fracture or shatter and putting it back together again isn’t an option.

Carbon Fibre

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Chronograph Aston Martin F1 Edition

Carbon fibre is a material that can be found in many industries usually at the cutting edge of performance. It’s used heavily in Formula 1 cars, is a popular material for the latest and greatest in golf club technology and is even used in aeroplanes for wings and other key components. Carbon fibre typically comes in two forms. Sheet carbon and forged carbon. Sheet carbon is created from strands of carbon that are woven together. As the name suggests sheet carbon isn’t particularly thick and therefore often used for the bodywork on Formula 1 cars. Sheet carbon has a very uniform appearance; you can see the pattern where the carbon strands have been woven together.

Forged carbon is a little easier and quicker to make. Forged carbon is a composite that blends a liquid plastic resin with carbon fibre strands. The resin and carbon fibre when mixed can be shaped or poured into moulds. Simply add some heat and pressure and you end up with a solid piece of forged carbon. This type of carbon gives a milky swirl type look to the material. Due to the mixing of the carbon fibres and epoxy resin the appearance of two pieces of forged carbon are never identical. To honour their partnership with Aston Martin F1 it was only fitting that the Girard Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin was made with a carbon fibre case. The pattern of the case looks random and was made by mixing carbon fibres with a resin, much like a forged carbon.

Whichever type of carbon process is used both maintain the same basic benefits. The reason carbon is used in motorsport and aerospace engineering is because it is both incredibly lightweight and strong. In some cases carbon fibre can be up to 5 times stronger than steel. Place it on the scales and it comes in up to 75% lighter than steel. It’s even lighter than the lightest metal on this list, titanium.

Quartz TPT

Richard Mille RM 35-03 Rafael Nadal in blue quartz TPT

Quartz TPT is a material almost exclusively associated with Richard Mille. The brand has heavily lent in to the material for many of their watches since its debut in 2017. This is thanks to a partnership with a company called NTPT who exclusively provide the material to Richard Mille. TPT stands for ‘thin ply technology’ and involves layering lots of thin sheets of dry fibres on top of each other and then injecting with a resin to create a solid material. The direction in which you lay the dry fibres helps denote the final pattern of the material.

Initially this process was an advancement of carbon fibre whereby the dry material used strands of carbon. Due to the colour of carbon this made making TPT cases in anything other than black very difficult. Instead the technology advanced to experiment with quartz fibres which have a more translucent colour. This means if you add colour to the resin you can now change the colour of the final material.

Quartz TPT, much like carbon fibre, is incredibly strong thanks to the approximate 600 layers of fibres that are required to create a watch case. Add to this the now endless possibilities of colour as with the blue Richard Mille RM35-03 Rafa Nadal and Quartz TPT has a one up on carbon fibre. At the moment though, you’ll need to buy a Richard Mille if you want any Quartz TPT on your wrist.

The chronograph is one of the most common complications in watch making, which also makes it one of the most overlooked and misunderstood. Often seen as a simple stopwatch, its functions and subdials can be used for calculating speeds to measuring heart rates. And this is even before we get to the seriously complex stuff. You have flyback chronographs designed for accuracy, split second chronographs for timing multiple events and even lap timers named after F1 drivers. Overall, the chronograph has a lot more to offer than you might think, which is why this beginner’s guide to chronographs should prove handy!

The long history of the chronograph can be traced back to Louis Moinet who in 1816 created the world’s first chronograph pocket watch. Mr Moinet however, had to wait until 2013 to receive the credit he deserved as its inventor. Until this point Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec was heralded as the chronographs creator thanks to his 1821 device which was used to time horse racing in France. It was only on discovery of Louis Moinet’s pocket watch in 2013 that watch historians had to rethink their textbooks.

The watch that confirmed Louis Moinet as the inventor of the chronograph

It wasn’t until 1969 that the first automatic chronograph watches arrived with brands from Zenith to Breitling and Tag Heuer all jumping to release their automatic chrono movements.

Fast forward to today and when we think of a chronograph, we tend to envisage the traditional 3 subdial layout with two pushers. One each at the two and four o’clock positions. This is the look we’ve become accustomed to in modern icons such as the Omega Speedmaster and Rolex Daytona. However, this is only scratching the surface of this complication. In fact the chronograph is far more versatile and complex than you might imagine, so if you’re itching to find out more about the different types and functions then you’re in the right place.

Simple Chronograph

Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph Night Driver, a perfect example of a simple chronograph

In short, all chronographs are stopwatches with varying levels of complexity and time measuring functionality. The simple chronograph is the most basic of stopwatches and gives you the ability to time a given event using start, stop and reset pushers. A simple chrono will typically include a central chronograph seconds hand and a set of subdials. The central chronograph hand replaces what on a traditional time only watch would be your seconds hand. The difference with the central chronograph hand is that it remains motionless pointing at 12 o’clock until you start the chrono.

On many chronographs this relegates your running seconds hand to a subdial most commonly housed on the left hand side of the dial. There are then two other common subdials you may be familiar with. The minute register and hour register. Once the central seconds hand has recorded 60 seconds the minute register will move to indicate how many minutes have elapsed. The hour register follows suit measuring how many hours have passed.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda

In some specialist chronographs the central seconds hand will complete a full rotation, not in 60 seconds as you might expect, but in 10 seconds or even a single second. These high flying chronographs are for precise time measuring to a tenth or even hundredth of a second. In these instances the central seconds will complete multiple full rotations before the minute register needs to kick into gear.

The Tachymeter, Telemeter and Pulsometer

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Watches with the 3 subdial layout (tri-compax)

The common 3 subdial layout can best be seen in something like the Zenith Chronomaster Sport. Zenith chronographs are all powered by variations on their El Primero movement which has become something of a legend. The original El Primero was released by Zenith in 1969 as one of the world’s first automatic chronograph movements and it would go on to power Rolex Daytona’s until around 2000. Whilst most simple chronographs adopt the 3 subdial layout (known as tri-compax) others opt for a 2 subdial configuration (known as bi-compax).

However, as chronographs are expert timing devices there are several iterations of the chronograph with specialised functions for timing unique events, the next layer of complexity to consider in this chronograph guide. These variations may not require large mechanical changes but instead offer different visual representations of how to read a chronograph using markers or scales.

Tag Heuer Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox, a chronograph with a tachymeter

The most common of these is the tachymeter. Often reserved for chronographs with an automotive connection, such as the Tag Heuer Carrera, the tachymeter is a scale on the bezel, or outer edge of the dial which allows you to calculate speed. In order to operate a tachymeter you need to know the distance the object is travelling i.e 1 kilometer. Assuming you’ve then used your chronograph to time how long it takes to cover this distance you refer to the tachymeter scale to read the speed.

In the theme of speed and distance the next specialist chronograph is the telemeter. This unique scale serves to measure the distance between an event that you can both see and hear. For example, thunder and lightning. Simply start your chronograph once you see the flash of lightning and stop it once you hear the thunder. Then use the telemeter scale to determine how far away you are from being caught in the storm. The telemeter scale works using the speed of sound to determine how far the sound has travelled since you saw the flash.

Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope comes equipped with a tachymeter, telemeter and pulsometer

The final scale enhancement, the pulsometer, has nothing to do with speed or distance. This very specialised type of chronograph reading is designed to help you measure a pulse or heart rate. By starting the chrono at the same time as you begin counting pulses you measure the time required to reach a set number of pulsations (usually 15 or 30). Once this many pulses has been reached you stop the chrono and read the pulsometer scale to obtain the pulse rate per minute.

These three variations on the chronograph are perhaps best represented in the Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope. A watch which contains all three of the tachymeter, telemeter and pulsometer.

Monopusher Chronograph

Patek Philippe 5470P with a monopusher at 2 o’clock

In most chronographs the controls are set on the side of the case and usually involve one or two pushers. If a single pusher is used to operate the chronograph this is referred to as a monopusher. Monopusher chronographs are an additional level of complexity over and above your usual run of the mill two pusher chrono and the reasons for a monopusher are predominantly aesthetic. You need fewer pushers protruding out and spoiling a perfectly crafted case.

Although there is a visual advantage to the monopusher it comes with a drawback. Once the chronograph has been stopped it can’t be restarted, only reset. Stopping the chrono and pressing the monopusher will send the chronograph back to zero ready to start all over again. Today monopusher’s are in the minority among chronographs and typically command a price premium. However, there was a time when they were the choice of the British Navy and Royal Air Force who during the 1940’s and 50’s issued soldiers with Lemania monopusher watches.

Flyback Chronograph

Longines Spirit Flyback Titanium

Moving on down the chronograph guide, you may have heard of a flyback chronograph but what actually is it? Imagine you need to time two separate events where event number 2 starts immediately when event number 1 finishes. In this situation you’d be grateful for having a flyback chronograph on your wrist.

In most aspects the flyback chronograph looks the same as the simple chrono with the same pusher and dial layouts. However, when you press the chronograph pusher on a flyback the hands will immediately reset to zero and start again. The chronograph function has been reset and restarted on the click of a single pusher without losing any recording time.

On the simple chronograph this action would require the press of three pushers. One to stop the timing hands, the second to reset to zero and the third to restart. At its creation the flyback was designed for pilot’s to aid navigation whereby a specific heading had to be maintained for a specific time with no margin for error. When traveling at high speeds any lost time could result in missing your destination by a considerable distance, hence the need for a flyback chronograph.

Split Seconds Chronograph

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Chronograph

The most sophisticated, most complex and therefore most expensive of chronographs is the split second or rattrapante. So far, we’ve seen that simple and flyback chronographs operate with either one or two pushers, the giveaway for a split second chronograph is that they require three. The third split second pusher is often placed at the 10 o’clock position on the case.

The other big difference is the addition of a second central chronograph hand. This extra hand, when the chronograph isn’t running, can be almost impossible to see as it sits directly underneath the regular central seconds hand. Look closely at an A. Lange & Sohne 1815 Rattrapante and the two central seconds hand can just be distinguished thanks to the colours. The top hand is blue and the bottom hand is silver.

The purpose of a split second chrono is to allow you to time two events simultaneously, for example, two athletes running a race at the same time. In this scenario, you start your chronograph as normal and this sets off both the central seconds hands. Once athlete one crosses the finish line you use the split second pusher to stop one of the seconds hands (giving you the time for athlete one). Meanwhile, the other central seconds hand continues running uninterrupted allowing you to record athlete 2’s time. Essentially, what the split seconds chrono gives you is the ability to show how much quicker you are in the parents race at sports day than the guy in second place.

The Ultimate Chrono: The Laptimer

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher

This final chronograph is so complex and difficult to create that it wasn’t until 2015 when Audemars Piguet released the Royal Oak Concept Laptimer Michael Schumacher that we got to glimpse the world’s first ever lap timer watch. The laptimer takes the concept of the split second chronograph and elevates it to a new level. In the traditional split second, when you press the split second pusher one of the central seconds hands stops whilst the other continues. In the lap timer when you press the split second pusher two things happen.

Firstly, one of the seconds hands will stop (so you can take note of the lap time that’s been completed). Simultaneously, the other seconds hand will reset to zero and restart (so you can immediately start the timing of the second lap). Think of it as a flyback and split second chrono all in one. This just goes to show how the often underappreciated chronograph is one of watchmaking’s greatest and most versatile complications.