In the world of luxury watches, there are iconic designs that evoke instant admiration and timeless elegance. And then, there’s the Omega Ploprof. A watch so strikingly unconventional that it proudly earns the label of the “ugly duckling” of the watch world. Yet, despite its divisive design, or perhaps because of it, the Ploprof has managed to carve out a devoted fanbase since its debut in the early 1970s. How did such a polarising piece earn the love and loyalty of so many watch enthusiasts? Let’s dive into the history and unique charm of the Omega Ploprof 166.077.

A Purposeful Driven Design

The Ploprof, short for Plongeur Professionnel (French for “professional diver”), wasn’t designed to win beauty pageants. It was created to withstand the most extreme conditions of deep-sea diving. Omega developed the watch in collaboration with COMEX, the French commercial diving company and the legendary ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau. The objective was simple: create a robust timepiece that could handle the crushing pressures of the ocean’s depths. In 1971, Omega introduced the Ploprof 600, a watch capable of surviving depths of 600 meters (2,000 feet).

Its enormous stainless steel case, thick sapphire crystal and signature locking crown were all geared toward functionality, not fashion. The Ploprof’s monobloc case design ensured exceptional water resistance by eliminating the need for a screw-down case back. The crown’s placement on the left side further sets it apart. Offering protection from accidental bumps and preserving the watertight seal. When the Ploprof launched, it was priced at 795 Swiss francs, more than double the cost of a Rolex Submariner. Omega advertised it with the slogan, “When you take your life in your hands, you need a good watch on your wrist.”

Aesthetic Brutality

When it first hit the market, the Omega Ploprof 166.077’s looks were, to put it mildly, controversial. The asymmetric case and blocky design stood in stark contrast to the sleek, refined watches that Omega was best known for. Its bulky form, prominent crown guard, and unusual bezel locking mechanism added to the overall sense that this was a tool, not a fashion accessory. Yet, it’s precisely this “form follows function” approach that has won the Ploprof its loyal fans. For those who appreciate purposeful design and engineering over conventional beauty, the Ploprof is a symbol of uncompromising performance. The oversized bezel and massive case not only protect the movement but also provide a clear, readable dial even in the darkest depths of the ocean.

The Cult Appeal

Despite its initially lukewarm reception, the Ploprof has grown into a cult classic. Part of its appeal lies in its rarity. The original Ploprof 600 was only produced for a few years before being discontinued, making it a sought-after collector’s item. In 2009, Omega relaunched the Ploprof, this time rated to a staggering 1,200 meters. Bringing it into the modern era while retaining its original, unapologetically bold design. For many collectors, the Ploprof represents a refreshing departure from the delicate, minimalist aesthetics that dominate the luxury watch market. It’s a conversation piece, a statement of individuality, and a reminder that watches can be both tools and art. The love for the Ploprof isn’t about prettiness—it’s about appreciating the unapologetic boldness that Omega dared to pursue in creating one of the most extreme diving watches of its time.

An Unlikely Icon

In a world where slim, dressy watches often take centre stage, the Omega Ploprof has embraced its role as the industry’s lovable outsider. Its unique design and incredible functionality have made it an enduring symbol of Omega’s commitment to technical innovation. Whether you find it ugly or captivating, the Ploprof’s impact on watchmaking is undeniable. The Ploprof is not just a watch; it’s an icon for those who value function over form, innovation over convention and aren’t afraid to stand out in a sea of predictable designs.

This “ugly duckling” proves that beauty, as they say, is truly in the eye of the beholder. One of the most distinctive features of the Omega Ploprof 166.077 is its locking crown mechanism. Instead of a traditional screw-down crown, the Ploprof uses a push-button lock to secure the crown in place. The large, red button on the side of the case allows divers to release and adjust the crown when needed, providing additional security against water ingress. This mechanism, though odd-looking, ensured that the watch remained fully water-resistant to 600 meters (2,000 feet), which was groundbreaking for the time.

A Keeper For Sure

It defied convention, choosing practicality over polish, and in doing so, carved out its place as one of the most iconic tool watches ever made. The Ploprof isn’t just a dive watch—it’s a testament to Omega’s willingness to push the boundaries of both engineering and aesthetics. For those who seek more than just a pretty face, the Ploprof stands proud, embracing its legacy as a true diving legend.

As a proud owner of a vintage 1977 Omega  Ploprof 600, this watch truly stands out in my collection. Many vintage Ploprofs serviced by Omega have had their dials and hands replaced, making it increasingly challenging for enthusiasts seeking an authentic look to find examples with these original features. Fortunately, mine retains its original hands and dial, and it also came with an Omega Extract from the archives, confirming its origin and year of manufacture. Whether you love or loathe the Ploprof, there’s no denying its significance within Omega’s range, and it truly stands apart from anything else out there.

More details at Omega.

Rado Captain Cook Mk1, Zodiac Sea Wolf, Yema Superman 24.11.17 and ZRC Spatialé 300

Watch enthusiasts widely consider the 1960s to be the golden era of dive watches. This period marked a time when companies pushed the boundaries of underwater timekeeping to their peak. The decade saw innovation, style, and practicality converge, cementing its reputation as the pinnacle era. But what exactly makes the 1960s such a standout period for these aquatic timepieces?

During the late 1960s, the demand for underwater watches surged, driven by advancements in underwater exploration, offshore oil construction, and various applications such as scuba diving, water sports, and operations by sub-aqua military and naval special forces. Let’s dive deeper into this fascinating decade. Here’s why this era stands out, with my personal references to Zodiac, ZRC, Yema, and Rado.

Technological Innovation and Durability

Zodiac Sea Wolf (1953)

Image credit: @realwatchbrothers

In 1953, at the highly influential Basel Fair, the Zodiac Sea Wolf and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms made history as the first diver’s watches marketed to the general public. The Sea Wolf was rated for a depth of 339 feet, just edging out the Fifty Fathoms, rated for 300 feet. This distinction at such a significant event underscored the competitive innovation driving Swiss watchmaking at the time.

It was among the first purpose-built dive watches, emphasising water resistance and durability. Its robust construction and legible design set a benchmark for future dive watches. It was also the first dive watch ever to offer a rotating bezel.

A vintage advertisement for Zodiac’s Sea Wolf

The Sea Wolf’s clean, utilitarian design became iconic. Its simple, bold markers and hands provided excellent readability, a key requirement for divers. Zodiac’s design principles from the 1960s influenced many dive watches that followed. The Sea Wolf’s legacy as one of the first commercial dive watches solidified Zodiac’s reputation as a pioneer in the dive watch segment. Collectors and enthusiasts today still revere its classic models from the 1960s.

Iconic Design and Aesthetics

ZRC (Zuccolo Rochet Company) Grands Fonds 300 (1964)

Image credit: @realwatchbrothers

In 1960, the French Navy approved the first Grands Fonds 300 but pointed out an issue with its design. The Navy noted that the crown, positioned at 3 o’clock, was too exposed during underwater operations. Concerned about its vulnerability, they requested ZRC to come up with a way to shield the crown without restricting wrist movement, and importantly, to ensure it wouldn’t accidentally open underwater.

Responding to this challenge, ZRC’s engineers devised an innovative solution. They repositioned the crown to 6 o’clock and attached it to the case with a unique mechanism. This system involved crafting a canon from a single piece, resulting in the Grands Fonds 300 becoming the first watch to feature a fully monobloc case, offering unmatched durability and security for divers.

ZRC advertisement (1964)

The Grands Fonds 300’s distinctive crown and rugged appearance stood out. Its design was not only functional but also gave the watch a unique identity that diverged from the typical round-case, side-crown configuration. The Grands Fonds 300’s design innovations were well ahead of their time. Influencing future developments in dive watch ergonomics and functionality. Its unique engineering continues to be a talking point among dive watch aficionados.

Heritage and Legacy

Yema Superman 87062k (1963)

Image credit: @realwatchbrothers

The first Superman came to fruition in 1963 with the world’s first 300m waterproof watch available to the general public. Featuring a 39mm case, skin diver hands, a locking bezel and a tortoiseshell bracelet. It was renowned for its innovative bezel-lock mechanism. This feature prevented the bezel from moving unintentionally, a critical aspect for divers relying on the bezel to track their dive times accurately. Known as the 63′ it paved the way as a foundation for Yema to build on this success. Yema released the 24.11.17 in 1968, just a few years after the 63’s debut, and it proved to be another major victory for the company. Most modern iterations are inspired by these original designs.

Yema Superman advertisement (1963)

The Superman’s bold, easily readable dial, combined with a sturdy case, offered both elegance and functionality. Yema designed the Superman to be robust enough for underwater use while maintaining a stylish look for everyday wear. The innovative bezel-lock mechanism, developed in the 1960s, continues to be celebrated and used in modern iterations of the watch, showcasing its lasting practicality and appeal. The Superman proved itself to be a watch built for all needs as French Air Force pilots chose it for its unmatched versatility and durability. Yema soon became the largest exporter of watches in France towards the end of the 20th century.

The Aesthetic Appeal

Rado Captain Cook (1962)

Image credit: @realwatchbrothers

In the 1960s, Rado made a daring move to capitalise on the diving trend with the release of the Captain Cook. Named after the famed British explorer James Cook. Known for his South Pacific expeditions, this watch was a marvel of design for its time. It featured an innovative inward-sloping dive bezel, a stylish beads-of-rice bracelet, and a domed acrylic crystal with a sub-lens to enhance the date display. Rado’s designers gave the case sharp aesthetics, including the signature logo on the crown. It offered it in a distinctive 35.5mm size that helped it stand out in the crowded watch market. It also has a swinging anchor in a ruby at 12 o’clock.

Rado-Ticin advertisement (1964)

Emphasising both style and substance, the Captain Cook combined a vintage look with advanced materials. Rado was among the first to incorporate scratch-resistant sapphire crystals in their watches, enhancing durability. The Captain Cook featured a slim profile and a clean, readable dial, blending classic and contemporary aesthetics. Its rotating bezel and sturdy case made it a versatile timepiece for both diving and casual wear. The Captain Cook’s re-release in recent years highlights its lasting appeal and the timeless quality of its design. Rado’s commitment to combining innovative materials with classic design principles can be traced back to the golden era of dive watches.

Cultural and Historical Impact

The 1960s was a decade of exploration and adventure, both on Earth and beyond. Dive watches became symbols of this spirit, as they were essential tools for underwater explorers, military personnel, and recreational divers. The allure of the underwater world was strong, and brands like Zodiac, ZRC, Yema, and Rado were at the forefront, providing reliable, stylish, and innovative timepieces.

Space and Sea Exploration

The decade was marked by significant achievements in both space and sea exploration. Dive watches from this era often drew inspiration from these endeavours, adding to their mystique and appeal. ZRC released the Spatialé 300 as a limited edition to commemorate the Apollo 8 Moon Orbit. They only produced 1,000 units, so these watches are a rare find today.

Fashion and Function

Dive watches transcended their functional origins to become stylish accessories. The sleek, rugged designs of the 1960s dive watches resonated with the fashion sensibilities of the time, making them popular not only with divers but also with the general public.

ZRX Grand Fonds 300 S3 (1964), image credit: @realwatchbrothers

The Golden Era

The 1960s stands out as a golden era for dive watches due to a combination of technological innovation, adventurous spirit, and the growing popularity of underwater exploration. During this time, watchmakers capitalised on the increasing interest in diving by creating timepieces that were not only functional and reliable but also stylish and iconic. This era witnessed groundbreaking advancements in watch design. Such as improved water resistance, luminous dials, and robust construction, which allowed divers to explore the depths with confidence.

In essence, the 1960s was a period of exploration, innovation, and style that laid the foundation for modern dive watches. Establishing benchmarks that continue to influence contemporary designs. Dive watches from this era hold a special place in history, admired for their ability to capture the adventurous spirit and innovation that marked a transformative decade in horology. Their lasting legacy is a testament to the pioneering craftsmanship and daring vision of watchmakers who dared to venture into the unknown depths. Crafting timepieces that remain timeless icons in the world of watchmaking. Brands like Zodiac, ZRC, Yema, and Rado each contributed uniquely to this legacy, making the dive watches from this period enduring symbols of both practicality and style. Fortunately, I still have these in my collection and most will remain as a representation of the great time and the golden era of dive watches.

For years, the Tudor Submariner 7928 was my grail watch—a dream piece that represented the pinnacle of my collection aspirations. Now that I proudly own one, I realise how crucial this Oyster Prince model is to Tudor’s rich heritage and the broader landscape of watchmaking. Its significance for the brand and its place in horological history cannot be understated.

As Tudor continues to innovate and revisit its storied past, the question arises: why not revive the Tudor Submariner 7928? Here’s a compelling case for why this classic deserves a modern comeback.

A Legacy of Excellence

The Tudor Submariner 7928, introduced in 1959, is a watch that encapsulates the brand’s commitment to durability and performance. Designed as a professional diver’s watch, it boasted a robust 200m water resistance and the iconic oyster case, shared by its Rolex siblings. The 7928 was the first Tudor to feature crown guards and quickly became a favourite among professional divers, military personnel, and watch aficionados.

One of the key features that set the 7928 apart was its role in various naval forces around the world. Most notably, it was issued to the French Marine Nationale and the US Navy, solidifying its status as a tool watch of remarkable capability and reliability. This rich history not only adds to its allure but also serves as a testament to its enduring design and functionality.

Vintage Charm Meets Modern Demand

There’s been a notable resurgence in the popularity of vintage-inspired watches. Collectors and new enthusiasts are drawn to timepieces that embody the aesthetic and spirit of past eras. Reviving the Tudor Submariner 7928 would align perfectly with this nostalgic wave. Its classic design, characterised by the round case, oversized crown, and distinctive Mercedes hands, would resonate with those who appreciate vintage charm. Modern updates could integrate contemporary technology and materials, enhancing its performance while preserving its iconic look.

Bridging the Gap Between Past and Present

Reimagining the 7928 with modern enhancements could create a watch that appeals to both vintage enthusiasts and modern watch collectors. Imagine the rugged design of the 7928 equipped with Tudor’s in-house MT5602 movement, known for its impressive power reserve and precision. Add improved water resistance and contemporary materials like titanium or ceramic. You then have a watch that honours the past while embracing the future. These updates would attract modern consumers and respect the legacy of the original 7928. The fusion of vintage design with cutting-edge technology would create a timepiece that is a tribute to the past. As well as a statement of contemporary watchmaking excellence. I for one would be at the front of the queue for a 7928 with a modern twist.

Expanding the Tudor Submariner Line

The Tudor Black Bay line, inspired by Tudor’s historic dive watches, currently stands as the brand’s flagship collection. While the Black Bay series has enjoyed immense popularity, there is a distinct gap in the line-up for a model that directly channels the essence of the original Submariner 7928. Reintroducing the 7928 would expand Tudor’s dive watch offerings. Thus giving consumers a choice that directly connects them to a significant chapter in the brand’s history. This move would also set Tudor apart from competitors increasingly exploring their own archives for inspiration.

Tapping Into a Rich Collector’s Market

The market for vintage Tudor Submariners, particularly models like the 7928, has seen a surge in interest and value. Collectors pay premium prices for well-preserved examples, recognising their historical significance and rarity. Reviving the 7928 would cater to this collector’s market and attract new customers who admire the timeless appeal of vintage watches but prefer the reliability and convenience of a modern timepiece. Tudor could even offer the revived 7928 as a limited edition, creating a sense of exclusivity and urgency among potential buyers.

Tudor Submariner 7928 on NDC Original Strap

Strengthening Brand Identity

Tudor has always positioned itself as a brand with a unique identity, distinct from Rolex. Reviving the Submariner 7928 would further cement this identity. Showcasing Tudor’s dedication to its heritage and its ability to innovate within its own narrative. By focusing on its iconic models, Tudor can continue to carve out its place in the watch industry. Offering products that are not just alternatives to Rolex but desirable in their own right. The 7928 represents a cornerstone of Tudor’s history, and bringing it back would highlight the brand’s journey and its future trajectory.

Conclusion

Reviving the Tudor Submariner 7928 would celebrate the brand’s rich history and nod to the future. This iconic watch, with its blend of vintage charm and modern potential, embodies the essence of Tudor. By reintroducing the 7928, Tudor would honour its legacy and continue to captivate and inspire a new generation of watch enthusiasts. As an owner of both a late 7928 and a Pelagos FXD, I can confidently say there is an appetite for another model to run alongside the Black Bay and Pelagos. With its rich history, a revival of the 7928 would be the perfect addition to Tudor’s lineup.

As the world of watches evolves, the appeal of a timepiece that transcends decades remains powerful. The Tudor Submariner 7928 is more than just a watch; it’s a timeless icon waiting for its next chapter. With the success of the Pelagos FXD proving Tudor’s ability to merge tradition with innovation, the stage is set for the 7928 to make a triumphant return. This iconic model could once again become a favourite among divers, military personnel, and watch aficionados worldwide. The 100th anniversary of Tudor in 2026 will indeed be a significant milestone for the brand, and they will likely celebrate with something special. Reviving the Tudor Submariner 7928 could be a fitting tribute, given its historical significance and popularity among watch enthusiasts.

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