As someone who appreciates brands that fly both under and over the radar, I was eager to get hands-on and review the Raven Endeavour II Pistachio. While Raven Watches may not be as widely recognised internationally as some larger names, the quality and reliability of their watches make them worth considering, especially if you’re looking for something built with intention and purpose. The Endeavour II, in particular, showcases the brand’s expertise in crafting tough, capable timepieces, making it an excellent choice for those who value functionality and long-lasting performance.

Raven Watches is a small, independent company based in Overland Park, Kansas, which falls almost dead centre in the    United States, where I am writing from. Owned and operated by Steve Laughlin since 2008, Raven has been creating rugged, reliable timepieces that are designed and assembled right in the heartland of America. Laughlin’s background in visual arts and his passion for watches have shaped Raven’s identity, producing watches that reflect a no-nonsense, practical approach to design. You may have heard of Raven most recently from their collaboration on the TrailTrekker with NODUS Watches, another American-based watch brand. Raven’s dedication to quality craftsmanship is notably evident in the Endeavour II, their marquee dive watch that balances durability with solid performance.

The Raven Endeavour II’s design is centred on practicality, starting with the full-bodied case. Made from 316L stainless steel, the 42mm case is both corrosion-resistant and hypoallergenic, ensuring it can handle the elements while remaining comfortable on the wrist. At 12mm thick, it offers a nice presence without being overly bulky and the 47mm lug-to-lug distance ensures a good fit on a variety of wrist sizes. The brushed and polished finishes on the case give the watch a refined yet utilitarian look, striking a balance between robust style and function.

Raven has equipped and rated the Endeavour II to 500m of water resistance, making it more than capable of handling demanding underwater environments. The flat sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective (AR) coating on the inside ensures durability and clarity, even in bright conditions. The unidirectional bezel, made from ceramic and fully lumed, adds another layer of practicality, making it easy to time dives or other activities.

One premium feature that sets the Endeavour II apart is the automatic helium release valve. While not something most people will use regularly, it’s a thoughtful addition for those who need their dive watch to withstand pressure changes during saturation diving. It’s details like these that highlight Raven’s commitment to delivering a well-rounded and highly functional timepiece.

The Pistachio version of the Endeavour II immediately grabs attention with its light green dial, which features raised indices for easy readability. The dial’s unique colour is complemented by the black ceramic bezel. Plus, the use of Super-LumiNova X1 blue lume ensures visibility in low-light conditions. The polished black hands, for hours, minutes and seconds, offer clear contrast against the dial, further enhancing legibility. The softness of the green dial helps tone down the ruggedness inherent in the watch’s design – my personal favourite of the options, although the yellow may speak more directly to the brand’s ethos of adventure and bold horizons.

At 42mm, the case is perfectly sized for a dive watch, offering enough wrist presence without being too imposing. The 22mm bracelet, tapering down to 18mm, gives the watch a streamlined appearance, and the quick-release mechanism allows for easy strap changes. Whether you’re wearing it with the bracelet or swapping it out for a different strap, the Endeavour II maintains a versatile, functional look.

The bracelet itself is well-designed, featuring a NodeX adjustable clasp that makes it easy to adjust the fit on the go. This is a particularly useful feature for divers or anyone needing to wear the watch over a wetsuit or thicker clothing. Drilled lugs also add to the practicality of the design, making it easier to swap out straps or bracelets without hassle.

Underneath its rugged exterior, the Endeavour II is powered by the Miyota 9015 automatic movement, known for its reliability and accuracy. With a 42-hour power reserve, it’s a dependable choice that aligns well with Raven’s philosophy of building practical, functional watches. The movement also features hacking seconds, which allows for precise time-setting—another thoughtful inclusion for those who prioritise accuracy. The date window, positioned at 6 o’clock with a white date wheel, is unobtrusive and blends well with the overall design. It’s a simple, functional addition that complements the watch’s focus on legibility and ease of use.

What makes the Endeavour II even more interesting is the fact that it’s designed and assembled in Kansas. Raven Watches takes pride in its American roots and that’s reflected in the straightforward, no-frills approach to watchmaking. The focus is on delivering high-quality materials and solid engineering, rather than flashy design elements or unnecessary complications.

Steve Laughlin, Raven’s founder, brings decades of experience to the brand, having been passionate about watches from a young age. His hands-on approach to every aspect of the business—design, marketing, photography, and production—ensures that each Raven watch is crafted with care and precision. This personal involvement sets Raven apart from larger brands, giving the Endeavour II a sense of authenticity and purpose.

The Raven Endeavour II Pistachio is a dive watch built for those who value practicality and reliability over hype. With its 500m of water resistance, durable stainless steel case, and thoughtful design features like the helium release valve and fully lumed ceramic bezel, it’s a timepiece that can handle extreme conditions while maintaining a distinctive and refined look.

If you’re in the UK or elsewhere and searching for a robust dive watch with a distinctly American edge, the Raven Endeavour II deserves serious consideration, especially at a price of $620 (approx. £470). Its combination of technical capability, durability and understated design makes it a solid option for anyone seeking a well-crafted tool watch. Raven may be a smaller, independent brand, but their commitment to quality shines through in every detail of the Endeavour II.

More details at Raven Watches.

What happens when you blend the serene beauty of Japan’s landscapes with the precision of Grand Seiko’s watchmaking? You get the ‘Atera Blue’ Spring Drive SLGA025, the newest masterpiece from the Evolution 9 Collection. This stunning timepiece draws inspiration from the emerald-blue waters of the Atera Valley river, nestled in the Nagano Prefecture of Japan, home to the Grand Seiko Shinshu Watch Studio – the birthplace of the iconic Spring Drive.

The SLGA025 ‘Atera Blue’ is a tribute to the natural world. Its high-intensity titanium case is as strong as the rocks lining the Atera Valley and as light as the breeze that whispers through the trees surrounding Shinshu Watch Studio. The case measures a versatile 40mm in diameter and is only 11.8mm thick, offering a comfortable yet substantial presence on the wrist. Paired with a matching high-intensity titanium bracelet, this watch is built to withstand the rigors of everyday life while maintaining a refined, elegant look without the bulk typically accompanying stainless-steel.

If you know Grand Seiko, then you know that their dials and finishing are where the magic truly happens. The Atera Valley dial, featuring a vivid blue emerald color, inspired by the Atera Valley river’s clear waters, is mesmerizing. The texture is exactly what we have come to expect from Grand Seiko, with light portraying movement at every turn of the wrist.

Protected by a dual-curved sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface, the dial sparkles under any light, evoking the shimmering surface of the Atera River on a sunny day. The dial also features a date display, adding a practical touch to this otherwise artful piece that shows off raised applied indices and clean white text.

Under the hood, the SLGA025 is powered by the famous Grand Seiko Spring Drive Calibre 9RA2, a marvel of modern horology. This movement is not just accurate – it’s astonishingly so, with a precision of +/- 0.5 seconds per day. That’s the kind of reliability that puts this watch in a league of its own. And with a 120-hour power reserve, you can go days without worrying about winding or resetting. The movement is visible through a sapphire glass case back, allowing you to admire the intricate workings of the Spring Drive and the embedded power-reserve indicator, a perfect marriage of mechanical watchmaking, electrical watchmaking, and stunning finishing.

Despite its abundant elegance, the SLGA025 is more than just an astonishing dial and a lightweight package. With a water resistance of 10 bar (100m), it’s ready to accompany you on any adventure, whether you’re exploring the great outdoors or navigating the urban jungle. The three-fold clasp with push-button release ensures the watch stays securely on your wrist, no matter what the day brings.

The Grand Seiko ‘Atera Valley’ Spring Drive SLGA025 is a testament to what happens when art and engineering come together. It’s a watch that tells a story, one of rivers and valleys, of precision and beauty. Priced at a level befitting its craftsmanship, the SLGA025 is a piece of Japan’s natural heritage, captured in titanium and sapphire.

More details at Grand Seiko.

Héron Watches has quickly built a strong reputation for creating premium, concept-driven timepieces that combine high design with class-leading quality materials and meticulous craftsmanship in the microbrand space. Following the success of the Gladiateur in 2021 and the best-selling Marinor collection in 2023, Héron introduces the Marinor Ghost. Their commitment to excellence and attention to detail continue to attract a dedicated community of watch enthusiasts across the globe. Héron has built their brand from the ground up, starting in Canada, while offering incredible value, aesthetics, and a brand aura that is top-notch.

Héron has expanded its acclaimed Marinor collection with two new limited edition models: the ‘Seastorm Black’ (ref. 3201-A) and the ‘North Blue’ (ref. 3202-B). Inspired by 20th-century military dive watches, these models feature the historically important “anonymous dial” and the “sterile rotating bezel,” blending vintage aesthetics with modern precision.

The Marinor Ghost shares the same specifications as the rest of the Marinor line, which has proven to be a solid mix of enthusiast’s favourites combined with enough presence to make a statement. The 39mm case with a 47mm lug-to-lug width and 20mm lug width makes for a comfortable fit, complemented by the smooth stainless steel bracelet. The 12.9mm thick case with boxed sapphire crystal ensures durability and a satisfying wrist presence.

The minimalist design of the Marinor Ghost is its main attraction. The anonymous dial features a gradient fade from light grey to black and the North Star 12 o’clock marker creates a vintage flair. Historically, anonymous dials were used in military watches, particularly during the mid-20th century, to avoid revealing the manufacturer and to streamline production during times of war. The sterile bezel, free of markings, enhances the watch’s clean look and practical functionality. Inspired by military diving needs, the sterile bezel supported diving teams using rebreathers, allowing them to stay underwater for extended periods without needing the traditional 60-minute timing scale.

The boxed sapphire crystal, raised and box-like, emulates the look of vintage acrylic crystals on earlier watches while offering modern durability. This subtle choice adds visual depth and enhances the overall aesthetic – even though boxed-sapphire crystals are more difficult and costly to produce. The hardened steel case and bracelet, with a 1200 HV Vickers hardness rating, ensure scratch resistance, making it ideal for everyday wear and exploration.

The versatility of the Marinor Ghost is further showcased as we paired the case with a handmade German leather strap from VARIO, transforming the tough diver into something of a vintage-inspired dress watch. This versatility highlights the minimalist design’s adaptability.

This incredible watch impresses with its thoughtful design and attention to detail. Héron is pushing the limits and setting new expectations in the microbrand industry. Their dedication to quality and customer satisfaction is evident, making their following well-deserved. We’re excited to see where Héron decides to go next. If they continue to bring together vintage appeal and  modern durability wrapped up with a strong brand identity, they’ll be fun to watch, well, soar.

Each limited edition Marinor Ghost watch is priced at £495, and includes a precision screwdriver and a premium travel case. With only 50 pieces of each model available, these watches are sure to go fast.

More details at Héron Watches.

There are few things in horology that go together quite so well as microbrands and dive watches. As the quality of accessible movements and cases improves, more and more small watch brands are able to create stylish, practical and affordable timepieces that are capable of exploring the deeps.

So without further ado, here’s the ultimate microbrand guide to dive watches. You don’t need to risk diving into the blackest depths of the abyssal ocean to wear a diving watch, but at least with these you know you could. If you wanted to.

What would your answer be if we asked who created the world’s first wristwatch with an automatic winding rotor? If you’re a keen reader of Oracle Time you may already know, but if not, here’s a hint: nearly a century later, the same watchmaker continues to break technological barriers, pushing horology (quite literally) out of this world.

The answer is Fortis, the Swiss brand founded in 1912 by Walter Vogt who, in collaboration with John Harwood, produced the 1926 Harwood Automatic. How does a brand go from creating the first automatic watch to revolutionising the use of watches in space? Let’s find out by looking at Fortis’s history and future in space travel.

In the 1960s, Fortis partnered with NASA’s Gemini program to create the Spacematic watch

Like most things related to space travel, Fortis’s connection to the void beyond our atmosphere began in the 1960s. That’s when the brand embarked on its journey into space exploration by collaborating with NASA’s Gemini program, resulting in the creation of the Spacematic watch. Designed to endure the rigors of space exploration, the Spacematic marked a significant milestone as the first wristwatch to accompany astronauts beyond Earth.

This 35mm steel-cased design featured 250m of water resistance and an automatic movement that was both shock-protected and anti-magnetic. The first iterations of the 1960’s Spacematic watches featured an ‘ar’ applied emblem at 9:00 that signified the watch’s ability to handle ‘all risks’ encountered in space travel. This integration into space missions marked a pioneering achievement in horological history, foreshadowing Fortis’ commitment to precision and durability in the most demanding environments.

In 1992 Fortis collaborated with artist Andora to create the artwork on the Proton Rocket and the Fortis B-42 Andora Stratoliner Chronograph

Transitioning into the 1990s, Fortis intensified its engagement with the stratosphere with the introduction of the Stratoliner (we will dig into this model more later). This era saw Fortis participating in an ambitious marketing initiative alongside the Russian space program in 1992, adorning a Proton rocket with Fortis timepieces for a high-profile launch. This collaboration showcased Fortis’ technical prowess and forged enduring ties with Roskosmos, laying the groundwork for future endeavours in space-inspired horology.

By 1994, Fortis solidified its position in space exploration, earning the official designation by the Russian space agency for its watches to be integrated into cosmonaut equipment. The Official Cosmonauts watch emerged as a quintessential companion for space farers, having undergone meticulous testing to ensure reliability amidst the challenges of space travel. Its inclusion in extravehicular activities underscored Fortis’ enduring legacy as a trusted timekeeping partner in space exploration. Now let’s skip to the modern day.

Fortis Stratoliner S-41

Today, the Stratoliner continues to be an important part of Fortis’ range of watches. The current version of the watch was released in 2022 and embodies not only the spirit of aviation but also a deep-rooted connection to space exploration, underscored by its rigorous testing and approval by the Swedish Space Corporation (SSC) in space. Yes, you read that right, the movement powering the Stratoliner, the Fortis Werk 17 automatic manufacture calibre was tested in actual space, conquering microgravity, extreme temperatures, radiation, micro-density, and extreme winds. While many watches have been sent to space, none have used performance in space as a metric for watch testing, other than Fortis.

Fortis Werk 17

The Werk 17 features a column wheel chronograph mechanism for enhanced reliability while operating at a balance frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz). It boasts a generous power reserve of 60 hours, and the calibre is meticulously regulated to chronometer standards by Fortis watchmakers in Grenchen. The Stratoliner’s journey to space was marked by a series of intensive tests conducted in collaboration with the Swedish Space Corporation as mentioned above.

In a ground-breaking experiment, several Stratoliner movements were affixed to a gondola driven by a stratospheric balloon and launched from the Esrange Space Center. After enduring 1.5 hours of exposure to the harsh cosmic conditions at high altitudes, the movements safely returned to Earth, landing amidst the vast forest landscape of Finland. Subsequent rocket campaigns in 2022 further validated the durability and precision of the Stratoliner, solidifying its reputation as a trusted timekeeping companion for space exploration endeavours.

Fortis movements in space

After the series of successful stratospheric balloon tests and validating the requirements of their timepieces to be considered space-resilient, Fortis is taking things one step further. In a continued partnership with the Swedish Space Corporation, Fortis aims to establish a Space-Lab built into their production facilities. Additional rocket campaigns with SSC validated that their tool-watch movements could withstand the harsh conditions not only in space but also on the way there during a rocket launch.

Fortis Novonaut 42 Legacy Edition

In 2023, Fortis unveiled the rocket-tested Novonaut, heralding a new chapter in its legacy of space horology. As the successor to the revered B-42 Official Cosmonauts watch, the Novonaut embodies craftsmanship and performance, poised to navigate future space missions with precision. Its introduction signifies Fortis’ ongoing commitment to advancing the frontiers of space exploration through cutting-edge engineering.

The Novonaut shares the tried and tested Werk 17 movement and features what Fortis calls a ‘Sirius’ bezel. The bezel made of a flat ceramic, is virtually unbreakable and sits around a Sapphire crystal featuring dual-sided anti-reflective coating. The Novonaut also features a triple-gasket screw-down crown and practices sustainability as its case and block bracelet are made of recycled stainless steel. The dial also presents a hidden feature as UV light unveils reverse seconds dial markers for counting down seconds during launches.

Russian Cosmonaut Sergei Volkov wearing a Fortis Novonaut

Entering the new millennium, Fortis set its sights on Mars, aiming to become the first watch to mark time on the Martian surface. This audacious ambition epitomizes Fortis’ dedication to pushing the boundaries of innovation in watchmaking. To do so, Fortis has partnered with the Austrian Space Forum, one of the leading institutions conducting Mars analog missions. This partnership will aim to shape the future of human exploration on the red planet while developing new standards for reliability and tool watches in parallel.

Throughout its journey, Fortis has remained a beacon of excellence in space-timekeeping, blending technical innovation with a steadfast commitment to exploration. From the Spacematic to the Stratoliner and on to the Novonaut, each timepiece represents Fortis’ enduring legacy in shaping human exploration beyond Earth’s boundaries. As Fortis moves away from efforts with Russia and expands its relationships with trusted partners like the Swedish Space Corporation and the Austrian Space Forum, fans of watchmaking and the cosmos alike can be sure the two will grow alongside each other. Fortis is not only developing top-tier watches that are purpose-built, but they are pushing boundaries and moving entire industries forward in the same way they have been since 1912. If you didn’t know about the pedigree of Fortis, you do now.

More details at Fortis.