It was only a few days ago, when discussing the new Hanhart FLY NAVY Aerosphere, that I remarked I’m not the biggest fan of yellow and blue watches. However, pulling the Yema Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 out of its box almost immediately changes my view on the matter. Yema might just be the coolest brand of 2024.
I think the reason I’m so excited about this Yema renaissance is the fact that a few years ago their watches felt uninspired and more than a little lacklustre compared to where the brand is today. Their previous collaboration with the Marine Nationale (French Navy) the Navygraf GMT feels rigid and strict whereas my first impression of the Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 is the complete opposite.
A large part of that comes down the colour. Instead of a dark, serious navy blue, the dial is more vibrant in its tone. It verges on being teal when hit with direct light, although it ultimately stays firmly on the blue end of the spectrum. But that bright quality makes it feel almost playful, especially with the yellow seconds hand, which is an odd thing to say regarding what is ostensibly a military dive watch.
The Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10’s display is certainly worthy of a practical dive watch, whether military or otherwise, and the 300m water resistance rating lives up to that. It has a combination of circular, rectangle and triangle hour markers all coated with lume, ideal for low light legibility underwater. The hour and minute hands are also lumed for the same reason.
If you’ve ever wondered why dive watches often have subtly asymmetric displays, as seen here with the double rectangle at 12 o’clock that creates an asymmetry on a horizontal axis, it’s so that you can always orientate the display regardless of your own orientation underwater – useful when executing complicated manoeuvres below the waves.
Strapping on the watch, it sits very nicely on the wrist. It’s a brand-new case measuring 39mm in diameter with a thickness of 13.5mm, including the domed sapphire glass. Those dimensions mean it isn’t huge but still has plenty of presence. It also nods towards the popularity of sub-40mm watches at the moment. The lugs also suit the shape of the case well, arching down from the lip of the bezel to the H-link bracelet with a combination of brushed and polished finishing.
In terms of the tactile feel of the watch, it has a good weight to it without being overwhelming. The crown, embossed with the Marine Nationale logo, is pleasant to use as it’s quite large and has a fluted grip, making it easy to manipulate. The same is true for the unidirectional rotating bezel with sapphire insert. Sapphire insert bezels always make me think of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms because it gives them that shiny finish in contrast to the more matte styles common on Submariner homages.
Powering the Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 is, as you might expect, the CMM.10 automatic calibre. CMM stands for Calibre Manufacture Morteau, a reference to the Morteau workshops where Yema now produces the majority of their movements in-house, integrating Swiss balances from across the nearby border. The result is a great movement with a 70-hour power reserve and accuracy of -3 / +5 seconds per day. It’s visible through the exhibition caseback.
Priced at £1,279, the combination of robust case, clean display and manufacture movement mean the Navygraf Marine Nationale CMM.10 offers seriously impressive bang for your buck. No wonder it has already been named French Watch of the Year by the Union de la Bijouterie Horlogerie. After spending time with the watch, I agree with that decision.
Price and Specs:
More details at Yema.
