The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is a watch I’ve had my eye on for a while now. Not because it’s a world conquering grail watch but because it’s an accessible, rugged timepiece well suited to the rigours of day to day life. In short, it’s practical and down to earth. Hamilton recently released the new Khaki Field Mechanical 2024 collection, featuring three watches, two of which I have in front of me for review.
Specifically, I have the two steel models, with the absent model being the bronze edition. While the bronze does make for a strikingly different and somewhat more retro aesthetic, I think steel is where it is at for the Khaki Field. It’s no nonsense, easy to keep clean and durable. Plus at a diameter of 38mm with a thickness of 9.5mm, it’s also relatively light in comparison to most steel tool watches.
That size really works for the watch too because field watches are typically on the smaller side for a number of reasons. Firstly, the concept of the field watch is liked to the military and while you’re engaged in military operations it’s important to have your full range of wrist movement and smaller watches are less likely to impede that (while I’m no soldier, it’s certainly comfortable to wear all day long). Secondly, field watches were largely developed in the early 20th century and vintage designs tended to be smaller than those we see today.
Looking to the dials, the Khaki Field Mechanical in steel consists of a white and a blue version. Immediately I’m drawn to the white. Partly because it’s the brighter of the two but also because the combination of the pure white dial, intense black numerals and triangular indexes looks great. There’s a bold, graphic quality to the piece that feels retro in a 90s kind of way.
The blue edition is trying more overtly to feel retro because instead of the green Super-LumiNova of the white version, it has beige lume. That gives the dial a faux aged appearance as if it were actually produced last century. In terms of overall appearance, I find that the blue feels sportier and more active while the white has more of a military edge, due to the prevalence of white and black field watches historically.
Long time fans of Hamilton will be aware that this white Khaki Field has been around for a while at this point whereas the blue is brand new. The reason it’s included as part of the 2024 collection is that it’s presented on a new strap, as well as the green lume that’s also new. The strap is a black NATO number that differs in one key way to traditional NATOs – it doesn’t have the secondary loop. Normally NATO straps are extra long and you fold the excess material over on itself to create a little loop that you tuck into one of the keepers. The Hamilton strap simply doesn’t have that.
I can understand why some people might prefer the authenticity of the original NATO design. But when you’re planning to wear a watch daily, the removal of an extra step every time you put it on and take it off is a solid quality of life improvement. Plus, it still feels the same as a regular NATO on the wrist. The blue edition has the same style of strap in blue.
Housed inside the watches is the calibre H-50 manual winding movement. While a manual movement comes with the added requirement that you have to remember to wind it, the H-50 does at least have an 80-hour power reserve so you have a large window in which to remember. Additionally, you can put it down on Friday evening and it will still be ticking on Monday morning.
As for price, both the white and blue models in steel are £545. Which is really the icing on top that makes these watches great. A cool retro-leaning design, a good mechanical movement and a robust construction, what more could you ask of an accessible watch ready to tackle every day.
Price and Specs:
More details at Hamilton.
