The watch world is still amid the throes of a second bronze age and every watchmaker worth the name has at least one or two patina-clad creations in their arsenal. Oris on the other hand has gone all-in, with not just a bronze case but a dial to match in the new Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date.
If the Big Crown Pointer Date looks like a pretty old-school design, that’s because it’s been a core Oris watch for the brand’s entire lifespan. There have been a few allusions to modernity here and there but it’s otherwise a classic Oris aviator.
Last year we saw the stunning 80th anniversary edition, matching the fluted bezel of the 40mm bronze case paired with a nice forest green dial. Now they’ve taken much the same formula – the same case and Oris 754 calibre automatic movement – but with a treated dial to match.
While the raw bronze of the case is left to its own devices when it comes to aging, the dial is a different matter entirely. It’s been chemically treated then given a transparent lacquer to preserve the finish. Essentially, it comes with a ready-made patina that, while unique to each watch, won’t change much.
Thanks to the simple white indexes the patina shouldn’t get in the way of legibility, though I feel that the red date hand that gives the watch its name might get a little lost in the brown tones. Still, I’ll wait to judge until I see it in the flesh because that’s what this watch is all about.
Each piece will be different and, rather than the slight touches of bronze that many watches use, here the various patinas will be easily visible. I can see it potentially being a bit much, but the elegant aviation design of the Big Crown Pointer Date should be able to handle it.
At a price of CHF 1,900 I’m more than happy to give it the benefit of the doubt.
Price & Specs:
Model Name: Oris Big Crown Bronze Pointer Date
Reference: 1754 7741 3166 5 20 74BR
Case/Dial: 40mm, bronze case
Water resistance: 50 metres (5 bar)
Movement: Caliber Oris 754, automatic winding
Power reserve: 38h
Functions: Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date centre hand
Strap: Brown chamois deer leather, bronze buckle
Price: CHF 1,900
More details at Oris’ website.