Back in November of last year Seiko introduced the heritage re-interpretation Prospex Speedtimer 1972 and now they’re expanding that model with two new editions. The first, dubbed ‘Glossy Black’ SRQ053J1 is a non-limited version of the original limited watch from last year’s launch with updated finishing and the second introduces a new colour, ‘Sunrise Blue’ SRQ051J1. The second watch is also known as the Prospex Speedtimer 1973 rather than 1972 as it’s inspired by a slightly later colour scheme in Seiko’s heritage catalogue.
While the colours and inspiration are slightly different between the two watches, they have exactly the same case. It measures 42mm in diameter with a thickness of 14.6mm, making it a pretty substantial chunk of metal. There’s a combination of brushed and polished surfaces across the steel bezel, case body and lugs, emphasising the sporty facets of the design. Completing the look of the piece are classic pump pushers flanking the crown that control the chronograph functions.
Looking at the dials, the Prospex Speedtimer ‘Glossy Black’ 1972 Mechanical Chronograph is based on the iconic reverse panda colour scheme. That means it has a black base with white chronograph subdials in a tricompax layout, the inverse of a panda, which is black on white. The monochromatic display is maintained by the white minute scale and black tachymeter around the periphery.
It’s more or less a direct copy of the limited edition from 2023 except for the fact it now has a glossy finish instead of matte. I’m really not a fan of releasing non-limited versions of limited editions less than a year after the original launch. It doesn’t feel great if you invested in the exclusivity of the limited version only for it to be widely available a few months later. Admittedly we’re talking about Seiko so the original was limited to 1,000 pieces and is still available if you prefer that edition, meaning it’s not exactly heartbreaking. But still, not a practice to encourage.
Changing the tone, the second watch is the perfect example of how to expand a collection as it builds on the style of those original models without detracting anything from them. It’s the Prospex Speedtimer ‘Sunrise Blue’ 1973 Mechanical Chronograph, inspired by the Seiko Sunrise’ ref. 6139 from 1973, which was an alternative colourway of the more famous Pogue. The new piece has a blue sunray brushed dial with white subdials, bright and sporty.
Beneath the surface, both editions of the watch house the calibre 8R48, an automatic movement with a 45-hour power reserve. It’s a vertical clutch, column wheel chronograph movement, which may sound like a mouthful but you can learn how it operates here. In terms of functions, it has hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph seconds, a 30-minute timer, 12-hour timer and date.
Both watches are presented on stainless steel bracelet and are priced at £2,320. As a final summery, I think the Prospex Speedtimer 1973 and 1972 Mechanical Chronographs are nice looking watches but there are just a few details I think could be improved. For example, they could be a touch thinner and I cannot fathom a reason they revisited the reverse panda colourway so soon when there are so many other colours that would work well. Something like a cool sunray brushed version in vibrant, race-ready red.
Price and Specs:
More details at Seiko Boutique.