We’ve talked many times at this point about Bell & Ross’s penchant for instrument watches. However, they often take that tool-based inspiration in one of two ways. On the one hand you have fun watches like the BR-03 Horizon that are very visually pleasing interpretations of existing instruments from aviation. On the other hand, you have watches like the new BR-X5 Racing, which has been created with a single-minded purpose to excel as an instrument in its chosen field.
As the name suggests, the field in this case is racing, specifically of the motorsport variety. Admittedly the most common type of racing watch is a chronograph but here they’ve decided to keep things simple with a three-hand time and date display with additional power reserve indicator. You could make the argument it’s therefore inspired by racing rather than a racing watch but I think that’s being overly pernickety. It sacrifices the additional functionality of a chrono for a display that’s easier to read, which is useful in racing. The lumed Arabic numerals and peripheral scales can be larger as there’s no need to accommodate any timer subdials.
On the whole the BR-X5’s dial is nice and readable. The aforementioned Arabic numerals are indeed nice and large, as is the checkerboard seconds scale that’s accurate up to 1/4th of a second. There’s then also a 60-minute scale on the watch’s flange around the dial’s circumference. The white colours of the markers and hands contrast nicely to the dark translucent dial. There’s also a flash of colour from the red-tipped seconds hands and the fuel gauge style of the power reserve indicator.
However, where the BR-X5 Racing’s racing pedigree really comes in to its own is the case, which is incredibly lightweight. Like an F1 car, as much excess weight as possible has been shaved off. The 41mm diameter square case is made from dark grey grade 2 titanium with matching titanium screws and DLC coated crown guards and crown. The bezel, with its curved corners, is then made from woven carbon fibre. An ultra-lightweight and durable material with a cool geometric pattern.
Housed inside this sporty case is the BR-CAL.323, which has a 70-hour power reserve and COSC chronometer certification, which is great. Bell & Ross describe it as an in-house movement though these days that term has become very diluted in its meaning – here it means that the BR-CAL.323 was produced exclusively for Bell & Ross by Kenissi, a manufacture known for producing high quality, small automatic movements.. Regardless of how you define it, it’s a really solid calibre and to be honest I’d like to see more of it, it hasn’t been used enough since it debuted in the original BR-X5 in 2022.
That movement does carry a hefty price with it alongside the high-tech materials used in the case design. On rubber strap the BR-X5 Racing is £9,400 and on titanium bracelet it’s £10,300. That’s pretty crazy money, putting it in direct competition with Speedmasters, Oystersteel Rolexes and the top end of Tag Heuer if we’re thinking about the motorsport angle. But perhaps that’s where B&R see themselves in the market whereas we see them alongside other practical tool brands like Oris.
Price and Specs:
More details at Bell & Ross.
