We recently delved into the history of Panerai and how the earliest Panerais were actually Rolexes adapted for use by military divers. Well, that connection to military divers is something the Italian brand has maintained across the course of its existence. In the modern era that manifests itself via collaborations with famous military units such as the Navy SEALs, with whom Panerai have just launched a new boutique collection of four Submersible Navy SEALs watches.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs
For a practical dive watch sometimes you don’t want any bells and whistles, just classic, traditional design in trusted materials. That’s precisely what we have here with the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs, a 44mm stainless steel diver with 300m water resistance. It features Panerai’s signature cushion case shape with a circular dive timer bezel that has a unidirectional rotation. I know James Bond was known for punching people with his Rolex, but a Submersible would probably have been much more effective.
For the Navy SEALs collaboration, it has a degrade gradient dial that shifts from grey to black and has vintage style beige lume. It also bears the inscription ‘Navy SEALs’ below the central hours and minutes, the seconds being offset to a small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. The other nods to the military unit come in the form of the logo on the caseback and the camo pattern textile and rubber hybrid strap.
Powering the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Navy SEALs is the P.900 calibre with 72-hour power reserve, a pretty standard movement for Panerai. This really feels like the bare essentials of a tool watch and the price reflects that at £8,800, which is only higher £200 than the standard QuarantaQuattro. Like all the watches here, it’s exclusively available from Panerai boutiques.
Price and Specs:
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro GMT Navy SEALs Carbotech
Second up is another Submersible QuarantaQuattro, but this time it exhibits some of Panerai’s more high tech materials. Specifically, the 44mm case and rotating bezel are made from Carbotech, which is Panerai’s take on carbon composite materials. It’s ultra-lightweight, off-setting the large size of the watch and making it easier to wear – although when I say it’s large, 44mm is by no means the largest size in this boutique collection.
As for the Navy SEALs elements, it has the same gradient dial and a camo strap. As it’s a GMT watch there’s an additional hand for displaying a second time zone. It has the same beige lume as the rest of the markers fitting seamlessly with the overall aesthetic. To my mind this is one of the most handsome aesthetics Panerai have ever produced, the combination of the advanced materials with the hint of retro flair from the beige lume matched by the desert camo of the strap works really well.
Under the surface and protected by the solid caseback that bears the Navy SEALs logo is the P.900 GMT calibre. As you’d expect it’s simply a GMT version of the core P.900 with the same 72-hour power reserve. A GMT isn’t exactly a complication you’d associate with a dive watch but the PAM01513 actually has an improved water resistance rating of 500m compared to the steel edition. Combine that with the Carbotech case and you get a price of £17,000.
Price and Specs:
Panerai Submersible Navy SEALs Titanio
The name Submersible Navy Seals Titanio in titanium measures 47mm in diameter, which is huge by most standards and absolutely gargantuan in a modern zeitgeist that has been favouring smaller, vintage proportions. But then, as we learned looking at the history of Panerai, it was the large size that historically made them appealing to the military because it allows for larger, more legible displays at a time when watches were smaller in general.
Of note, the bezel is carbotech rather than titanium, adding an extra layer of lightweight materials. It also aesthetically ties in nicely with the gradient dial as mentioned with the GMT edition above. Once again the Submersible Navy SEALs Titanio has beige markings and a camo pattern strap, as well as the Navy SEALs markings on dial and caseback.
Beneath the dial, the Submersible Navy SEALs Titanio houses the P.9010 automatic calibre. It has the same 72-hour power reserve as we’ve seen on the other models in the collection but here that power is stored across a double barrel system as opposed to just one. In terms of price, it comes in at £11,800 and like the rest of the Navy SEALs series is a boutique exclusive.
Price and Specs:
Panerai Submersible Chrono Navy SEALs Titanio
Last but by no means least is the Submersible Chrono Navy SEALs Titanio, another 47mm watch in titanium. This one though has a black DLC coating giving it a stealthier, more tactical aesthetic. On top of that, the bezel is made from ceramic, doubling down on the scratch resistant properties of the DLC coating to create a timepiece that can withstand whatever you throw at it. It also has the enhanced 500m water resistance making it a practical tool for military divers.
In terms of functions, as a Chrono edition it’s of course equipped with a chronograph. It’s technically a regatta timer that’s been redesigned with a military aesthetic. It has two central chronograph hands, one that times seconds and one that times minutes – using the pusher at 4 o’clock you can move the starting position of the chronograph minute hand so that you can use it to count down to a specific mark, such as the beginning of a race or military operation, hence the inscription marking it as a ‘Time to Target’ scale.
The movement that enables this is the P.9100/R, another automatic movement with a double barrel 72-hour power reserve. The combination of the regatta timer in addition to having a flyback function means this is actually a very advanced chronograph movement, not on the level of a rattrapante or double independent chrono but nothing to be sniffed at either. As well as being a boutique exclusive this model is a limited edition of 80 pieces at a price of £29,700. It will also have a slightly different launch date, hitting stores in October whereas the other three are available from September 24th.
