Humour is an underrated part of watchmaking. Some brands like Studio Underd0g and Mr Jones have built a very British tongue-in-cheek into their identity and their immense success is testament that people like to smile when they look at their watches. However, at the top end of the industry humour is much, much rarer. It’s only really H. Moser that comes to mind as a brand that can have a bit of fun with their launches. That is, until Hermès just launched the Slim d’Hermès Flagship which is a watch entirely based on a pun.
The pun in question is the term flagship, which originally meant the ship carrying the commander’s flag in a navy fleet. However, in modern days we use the term in the context of watch retail by describing certain shops as being a particular brand’s “Flagship Boutique”. Their largest, most impressive and high-profile retail spot. So, what have Hermès done? Well, they’ve taken their flagship boutique at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris and presented it on the dial of a watch imagined as an actual ship (one that’s inexplicably floating through space).
This depiction has been achieved using a number of different techniques and materials. The starry background is arguably the simplest element, created from aventurine glass and decorated with twinkling star motifs. One of the shooting stars at 4 o’clock is set on a freely rotating disk so that it moves along with your wrist in a similar manner to an automatic rotor.
The flagship boutique is then produced with an intense combination of engraving and micro-painting creating a bold sense of colour and vivacity. The colourful sails protruding from the top of the building almost make it seems like an alternative pitch idea for the film Up. There’s also something very Mary Poppins about it, like the Admiral’s house next door to the Banks. Plus, the fact it’s flying though stars makes me think of the flying ship in Peter Pan. In short, it’s full of playful, childlike whimsy.
I wouldn’t say that this type of creativity is a complete surprise from Hermès, their Metiers d’Art creations often lean into unique ideas. However, the extent of the whimsy seen on the Slim d’Hermès Flagship along with the silly, pun-based concept and frankly everything about this watch makes it seem like it was designed to be delightful in a purposefully ridiculous manner. I personally don’t really have much interest in the boutique at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and yet the charming qualities of this watch makes me care about it.
Beyond the dial, the watch has a 39.5mm yellow gold case and houses the ultra-thin H1950 automatic movement with 48-hour power reserve. It’s a limited edition of just 12 pieces, making it very exclusive. I imagine most of them will be sold to collectors either in Paris or who have a special interest in Hermès’ history. Or have a few Birkins stashed away.
Price and Specs:
More details at Hermès.