Blancpain dive deep into their archives for their latest tribute to the archetypal diving watch
Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms has been among the archetypal diving watches. It’s a modern icon but back in the 1950s was a timepiece that was instrumental (pardon the pun) in defining what a diving watch should be.
The entire concept came about when the French navy’s combat divers had a pressing need not to drown in their missions thanks to timing errors. They needed something reliable, accurate and being as overtly-patriotic as only the Gauls can, it had to be French.
At the same time Blancpain’s CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter was as likely to be found fathoms underwater as in the office. He knew precisely the challenges a professional diver faced and the demands that put on his watch and had already set about solving them in a number of patents.
The first was a double-sealed crown, something which we now take for granted in every diving watch. It means that if the crown gets pulled mid-dive water won’t go rushing right into the movement. Even more revolutionary, he invented the diving watch signature of a unidirectional rotating bezel. The large contrasting numerals that no modern diver is without? You guessed it: Monsieur Fiechter once again.
Needless to say that when the French navy came to testing watches fit for their elite divers in 1953, Blancpain’s newly christened Fifty Fathoms passed with a flying Tricolore.
Nearly 65 years later the Fifty Fathoms is still one of the most renowned diving watches in the world, even if most of its wearers have forgotten why it’s quite such an important watch. Fortunately for that little piece of horological history, Blancpain’s latest release in their diving collection should jog a few memories.
The Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC builds on the conventions established by that first 1953 timepiece in a faithful if slightly modernised homage. Stylistically there’s a lot of the original in the Tribute, from the black dial with contrasting indexes, the unidirectional bezel and iconic silhouette.
There are however a few touches taken from slightly later models, including the water tightness indicator that found its way onto the 1957 MIL-SPEC 1 edition. It’s a safety feature that is all but useless unless you are genuinely a military diver, but it doesn’t stop that central flash of yellow giving the dial a cool twist.
Of course, the materials and movement are as advanced as any modern Blancpain. The movement for one uses a silicon balance spring, complete with the magnetic and shock resistance it provides. The solid gold winding rotor is covered in a platinum alloy (more for beauty than function) and a four-day power reserve thanks to the two series-coupled mainspring barrels.
The Tribute to Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC isn’t the kind of straight re-issue that seems to be in vogue at the moment. Instead, it builds on that heritage and improves on the original in every way that doesn’t compromise its historical nuances. While I’d love to see a 100% accurate reissue, there’s no doubt that this is a fitting tribute to one of the most important diving watches ever made.
Price: CHF 13,400; www.blancpain.com
