Ok, let me talk to you on the level for a moment. If you’re not looking at microbrands as a wristwatch enthusiast you are missing out on one of the most fundamental and exciting areas of watchmaking. Brands like Straum should not be slept on because they release some of the absolute coolest limited release watches in extremely small numbers and if you have the opportunity to get your hands on one, you would be crazy not to. At least that’s my initial reaction to the new Straum Jan Mayen Basalt collection.
You’ll have seen the pictures in this article already so let’s jump immediately to that stunning dial. It has one of the most distinctive textures I’ve ever seen on a watch with a sandwich style construction consisting of a sunray base over the top of which is an incredibly thin layer of basalt. The basalt is sourced from the volcanic island Jan Mayen to the north of Iceland and is formed from molten lava which cools to create an incredible porous structure. The stone is then sliced into wafers for the watches’ dials.
The effect is pretty spectacular with the colour of the lower layer appearing though the gaps in the basalt. It looks simultaneously volcanic and oddly alien, as if you can’t quite tell if its organic in nature. There are three versions being produced, in a limited edition of 100 pieces that are available for pre-order on October 23rd at 5pm GMT.
First is the Straum Jan Mayen Basalt Volcanic Grey, which has a grey sunray brushed base, looking appropriately ashy. Second is the Basalt Radient Mist edition, which is technically the most traditional interpretation of a sandwich dial because the base layer is completely coated with lume so that it appears grey in the light and glows a vibrant blue in the dark. Lastly, but by no means least, Basalt Magma Red, which has a red sunray brushed base.
While the dials are awesome, this watch is not a one trick pony. The case is lovely as well with a 39mm diameter (the crown increases the width to 40.7mm) in steel and an integrated bracelet design. It has sharp lines and dramatic facets that make me think of a high-tech piece of lab equipment, which is appropriate because the dial really does look like a slide being viewed under a microscope. The bracelet is created using a CNC machine meaning each link is flawless.
But wait, there’s more! The dial is awesome, the case is awesome, so what about the movement? It’s the La Joux-Perret LJP G101 with automatic winding and a 68-hour power reserve. Arguably the most sought-after third-party movement on the market at the moment due to its combination of high specs and finishing. Straum have kept that finishing front and centre with just a simple logo engraved on the Côtes de Genève rotor.
As a collector, Straum have really ticked all the boxes I personally look for in a watch. Its design and dial feel unique in a very competitive market where standing out is very difficult to do and in doing so it sacrifices none of its structural or mechanical integrity. In terms of price, it’s not exactly impulse buy levels of accessibility at €1,900 (approx. £1,600) but with only 100 pieces available I still expect it to sell out instantly.
Price and Specs:
More details at Straum.
