The term ‘sector dial watch’ gets thrown around a lot, especially by me. But what does it actually mean? It’s quite a nebulous term because it’s an aesthetic choice as opposed to a functional, mechanical one. Meaning there’s no rigid definition as in the case of a dive watch that’s regulated by ISO certification for example. Brands are free to create their own interpretations of the style leading to vastly different designs.
A sector dial can be defined as a vintage style that originated as part of the Art Deco movement of the early 19th century. They are strongly focused on bold shapes and big lines often with a clean display that can sometimes lead to them being described as minimalist in certain contexts. Hence they also often fall into a style known as neo-vintage, meaning ‘new vintage’, as they are new designs emulating older styles.
Kurono Calligra
The name comes from the separation of details on the dial, most often via the use of alternating textures or colours that make the hour scale stand out from the rest of the dial. Or the application of a crosshair pattern through the centre, although that’s not essential. An example of a sector dial is the Kurono Calligra from earlier this year – if they weren’t sold out, I would include it below – which combines a sector hour display with Breguet numerals to really emphasise a neo-vintage aesthetic.
Furlan Marri Disco Volante
The Furlan Marri Disco Volante is neo-vintage in more than one way. While it does have a lovely sector dial (available in either blue and white, green and cream or brown and salmon) the case is actually one of its most significant features. It follows a style that originated in the 50s with a completely circular, lugless design, which is where the name Disco Volante or ‘Flying Saucer’ comes from.
Beneath the surface of the sector dial, which has an intense lume element to it, is housed the ETA 7001 manual winding movement. A solid movement with a 42-hour power reserve and a major step up from the mecaquartz movements Furlan Marri made their name with.
Price and Specs:
More details at Furlan Marri.
Baltic MR Roulette
France is the spiritual home of the Art Deco movement so it makes sense that French brands like Baltic have sector dials in their repertoire. This is the Baltic MR Roulette, inspired by the famous game that grew in popularity thanks to French and European casinos. You can see that each of the Arabic numerals in the hour scale is separated into its own little sector inside the larger sector ring, creating the appearance of a roulette wheel. The subdial at 7 o’clock then represents the ball.
Powering this game of chance is the Hangzhou CAL5000a with micro-rotor. It’s an interesting movement in that it makes micro-rotors accessible to a wider audience, but it also draws a lot of scrutiny due to its Chinese manufacturing.
Price and Specs:
More details at Baltic.
Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition
The Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold edition falls into that category of watches I mentioned in the introduction where it’s stylistically different to the majority of sector dial watches, but occupies the same design space. What I mean by that is the Arabic numerals sit on the internal guilloché disc instead of in their own sector. However, the fact that the dial is split into different areas as denoted by the different styles of finishing, combined with the overall Art Deco aesthetic and railway track scales (frequently used on sector dials) means I am happy to call this watch a sector dial.
It also happens to be one of the highest spec watches in this article with the Omega calibre 8926 manual with 72-hour power reserve and METAS master chronometer certification.
Price and Specs:
More details at Omega.
Frederique Constant Runabout Limited Edition
In an intriguing fusion of styles, the Frederique Constant Runabout is somewhere between a retro dress watch and a sports timepiece. It has large, oversize hour markers and Arabic numerals coated with lume creating a bold, highly legible display. While at the same time the central Clous de Paris disc adds a sense of luxury and class, similar to the Omega Paris 2024 Bronze Gold.
All of which makes sense when you learn that the name Runabout comes from a type of small, Italian boat designed for Alpine lakes. It operates with the Frederique Constant FC-303 automatic calibre, based on the Sellita SW200 with 38-hour power reserve. A really fun, sportier take on the sector dial.
Price and Specs:
More details at Frederique Constant.
Carl F. Bucherer Manero Flyback Chronograph
Carl F. Bucherer’s Manero Flyback Chronograph, which received new colours in 2024, takes sector dial design up a level. As a chronograph there are even more layers to the sectored display with the bicompax subdials overlapping a central disc and the separated hour scale. On top of that, a peripheral tachymeter completes the layout and gives a practical reason for the sectors, as it helps to organise information clearly.
The movement inside is the CFB 1973 automatic with 56-hour power reserve, an automatic chrono calibre with flyback mechanism. It’s a very classic design and one enhanced by the sector style display (although the non-sector variant is equally cool).
Price and Specs:
More details at Carl F. Bucherer.
Chopard L.U.C Full Strike Titanium
Moving into the realm of sector dial watches with haute horological aspirations. It features a titanium case with a mint green dial split into the classic sectors of a central textured disc, an hour scale and peripheral minute scale. However, occupying a large portion of those sections from 8 o’clock to 11 is an openworked minute repeater chiming mechanism with hammer and sapphire gongs.
Powering this prestigious complication is the L.U.C 08.01-L8, a manual movement with a 60-hour power reserve. It looks stunning though the exhibition caseback with Geneva stripes across its length.
Price and Specs:
More details at Chopard.
Raymond Weil Millesime Denim Blue
The Raymond Weil Millesime is the perfect example of neo-vintage design, a brand new collection that draws on the retro influences of designs that have come before. It’s executed really well, with the original edition from 2023 being recognised at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. For 2024 they released an updated version in denim blue with the same sectors style display with small seconds subdial.
It measures 39.5mm in diameter and is equipped with the RW4251 automatic movement, which is based on a Sellita calibre with 41-hour power reserve.
Price and Specs:
More details at Raymond Weil.
Longines Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve
The temptation with Longines is to highlight a watch like the Heritage Classic, which features a traditional sector dial watch display. However, more interesting (and actually launched in 2024) is the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve. It’s perhaps the least traditional sector dial in this article but that’s because the addition of the central power reserve complication completely alters the positioning of the sectors. Instead of the focus being towards the outer edge of the watch, this design uses long, thin hour markers to pull your focus inwards towards the centre.
It’s powered by the L896 automatic movement with 72-hour power reserve, which can be tracked using the multi-part rotating disc in the centre of the display. The watch’s case measures 38mm in diameter and is made from steel.
Price and Specs:
More details at Longines.
