I like to think that Grand Seiko have heard my complaints about other regions getting the coolest regional exclusives while Europe is left behind because at last, we finally have two absolute stunners. They’re the European exclusive SBGY040 “Chisen Teien” and SBGW321 “Nishikigoi” limited editions. The former is a rose gold Spring Drive model limited to 20 pieces and the latter is a 300 piece mechanical, both inspired by Japanese pond gardens. Looking at them up close in the metal, these are some of the most gorgeous dials I have seen in a while, which is saying something when we’re talking about Grand Seiko.
Grand Seiko Spring Drive European Exclusive ‘Chisen Teien’ SBGY040
When I first picked up the SBGY040, I thought it had a deep black dial with a flat, glossy finish but by God was I wrong. My dark corner of the office genuinely makes the dial look black and flat so imagine my wonder when I strapped it onto my wrist and moved it into the light of a nearby window. It completely transformed into a wonderous dark blue dial with a guilloché style engraving of immaculate waves. The way light dances across the display makes the waves look like they’re actually moving and it really is captivating.
The inspiration for the dial is “Chisen Teien”, Japanese pond gardens that are often connected to spiritualism and the Buddhist notion of paradise gardens. Places to observe the changes of nature and reflect. In this regard the fact that the dial changes so intensely based on the way light hits it is a truthful reflection of the concepts it’s inspired by.
Completing the display are a full complement of rose gold hour markers, delicately faceted in a similar manner to the central dauphine hands. I’m immensely grateful that Grand Seiko have put the power reserve indicator common to Spring Drive models on the back of the watch, leaving the display uninterrupted and clean. I really like it.
Zooming out from the dial to the case, it’s also made from rose gold and measures 38.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.18mm. The smooth bezel and domed sapphire crystal means it slides effortlessly beneath a cuff and the combination of dimensions means it’s well-proportioned on the wrist. It’s affixed to the wrist by a blue crocodile leather strap.
Taking the watch off and turning it over reveals the Spring Drive calibre 9R31. It’s a manual movement with a 72-hour power reserve and an insane accuracy of +/- 1 second per day. It achieves that accuracy through its spring drive technology, which in simple terms means the watch uses a mechanical power source to power a quartz style regulator, it’s a hybrid.
As mentioned, the SBGY040 “Chisen Teien” is limited to 20 pieces, priced at £26,890. On top of that, it’s exclusively available from Grand Seiko’s European boutiques, which in the UK means specifically their London boutique.
Price and Specs:
Grand Seiko Mechanical European Exclusive “Nishikigoi” SBGW321
Second up is the SBGW321 “Nishikigoi”, which has a red dial and is noticeably smaller than its blue dial counterpart. The case measures just 36.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.55mm in stainless steel. At this size it won’t suit everyone, and it does look faintly ridiculous on the wrists of some of the more gym-inclined men around the office. As I have never set foot inside a gym, I would say it’s just at the limits of size I would be comfortable wearing. It also comes at a time when a wave of 36mm, colourful watches like the Christopher Ward Twelve 36mm among many others have become popular.
Narrowing in on the red dial, it’s a really nice tone, not too bright but still with an intensity to it that is nice to look at. Red isn’t a colour you’d naturally associate with a pond but the “Nishikigoi” is dedicated to a very specific type of pond. You might be able to work out the connection based on some of the letters in the word “Nishikigoi”, it’s all about koi ponds. The red colour and the delicate scale-like motif in a radial pattern are strongly reminiscent of the fish.
Turning the watch over reveals a solid caseback with the Grand Seiko lion logo and an inscription denoting it as a limited edition and its number out of 300. Beneath the back is housed the 9S64 manual winding movement with 72-hour power reserve. It’s not quite as accurate as a Spring Drive but it’s no slacker either with an average of +5/-3 seconds per day.
It’s priced at £5,290, which is a pretty solid price given the quality of the movement, the exclusivity and the flawless dial. Considering that there are Seiko Prospex watches knocking on the door of £3,000 it doesn’t seem too unreasonable in comparison. Of the two I think on balance I prefer the SBGY040 “Chisen Teien” to the SBGW321 “Nishikigoi” but there’s not much in it. Plus, these might be the nicest Grand Seikos of 2024 (the Genbi Valley edition is the biggest competition) and they’re European exclusives.
Price and Specs:
More details at Grand Seiko.
