The first day of Watches & Wonders is always a bit crazy here in Geneva. Between the new releases from Rolex, IWC, JLC, Vacheron and more it feels like there are hundreds of new watches to discover. So, it’s nice to take a bit of time out from the day to focus in on one watch for a review. The watch in question is the new Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT, a brand new addition to the range.
As a quick disclaimer, I’ve only been able to spend about an hour with the watch so this review can’t possibly be as detailed or precise as spending multiple days with a timepiece. However, it should serve as a good first impressions look.
Strapping on the new watch, it wears incredibly comfortably. The 39mm diameter in steel is right in that sweet spot of retro sizing inspired by vintage proportions while also being large enough that it makes sense for a tool watch like the Black Bay. This is the first GMT in BB 58 range so it has the characteristic rotating bezel with 24-hour scale common to this travel complication.
The bezel insert is split into a day/night pattern with black and burgundy halves. Interestingly a lot of chatter ahead of the event was regarding the possibility of a new Rolex GMT-Master II Coke but it turns out we’ve got a Coke BB instead. (Rolex’s GMT-Master II this year is a grey and black Oystersteel number.) I really like the bezel, the gilt numerals help to enhance the retro flair of the piece and also tie it in slightly with the other new 58 model in gold.
Looking closer at the dial there are obviously a few differences between it and the standard 58. Most apparent is the central hand stack which includes four hands instead of the usual three. The GMT version features the traditional snowflake hour hand and long, straight minute hand but the seconds hand is in the lollipop style with a round tip instead of the signature diamond shape. That’s because the diamond hand has been repurposed for the 24-hour GMT hand. It’s otherwise a fairly typical Black Bay 58 display with circle, rectangle and triangle indexes coated with lume.
Also worth noting on the dial is the inscription above 6 o’clock “Master Chronometer”, because yes indeed, it houses a METAS certified movement. Specifically, it’s the Calibre MT5450-U with a 65-hour power reserve. Interestingly Tudor describe it as their new mid-size GMT movement, implying that it won’t be limited to the Black Bay 58 GMT and will find its way to the standard Black Bay in due time.
I know the revamped Black Bay is the headline stealer, but I really enjoyed my time with the 58 GMT. The cool retro vibe conjures images of the golden age of jet-setting, travelling across the world in relaxed luxury. It’s also a very practical watch at the same time, which appeals to me. And it’s also not too much of a dent in the bank at £3,770 on rubber strap or £3,930 on steel bracelet. It’s by no means accessible for all but it’s seriously tempting.
Price and Specs:
More details at Tudor.
