With all watches from Horloger Ming, there is an inevitable sense of taste and refined purity. A purity driven by the vision of founder and chief creative Ming Thein, who adores the visual and graphic shape-play of case and dial. Being aware of his background in photography you get the emphasis on strong graphic contrasts. That’s true of all their watches but is expressed with particular clarity in the new Ming 37.02 Minimalist, which has a balance between light and darkness on the dial that is quite spellbinding to be honest. And putting it on for the first time it feels compact, weighty and instantly at home.

You’ll have one of two reactions if you haven’t tried on a Ming watch before when you wear this watch. If you’re a small-cased watch aficionado like myself, you’ll nod approvingly as the short-lugged 38mm case settles on your wrist. Equally, if you’re part of the nouveau-large crowd rocking 43mm Breitlings, the combination of its compact design and big-presence charm will have you questioning your life choices. No kidding. This is only exacerbated by how the wrist-shape moulded FKM strap (the king of rubbers) embraces your forearm even before fastening the strap.

Let’s start by talking about the strap for a change. Ming equips their watches with a clasp that is so brilliant that it will make you question life itself. Sorry if this sounds dramatic, but it’s true. All Ming leather, or smooth FKM rubber, straps have an elongated clasp with twin openings. This allows the strap to return and tuck under the short clasp end. If this sounds bulky it isn’t, as all Ming straps are thin at this end, proof positive of an obsessive and fresh approach to watch design.

You’ll find no annoying keepers that slide up and no lengthy strap end poking out to catch your cuff. Should all brands implement this? Yes, and it would make the wrist world a better place. Like all other Ming straps, it also has a curved end and quick-release, which ensures a snug fit and easy changeability. On top of that, the leather straps from Ming are made by Jean Rousseau. They are usually priced at CHF 250, but they are worth every penny for sheer luxurious craftsmanship.

Moving to the Ming 37.02 Minimalist’s case, it’s the first to be designed, engineered, and managed internally by Horologer Ming SA, Ming’s new Swiss entity. The sides have distinct but soft brushing, while the slim rounded-top bezel compliments the sweeping lugs perfectly, as does the slight twinkle of the polished caseback. I love how the big crown juxtaposes the quite dressy size of the watch.

The dial of the Ming 37.02 Minimalist is deceptively simple, offering an industry first.. Ming Thein has been obsessively trying to make a luminescent compound that emanates a pure white glow, and this is the result. While it seems applied to the sapphire dial, that’s not the case. The proprietary white lume is liquid-filled into the triple laser-etched grooves encircling the dial. Each stop between the lumed semi-circles denotes the hour, so the charmingly expressive pattern is anything but random. Realizing this made me nod and grin widely in approval, making the intensely minimal 37.02 very legible.

The hands are instantly recognisable as a classic Ming design from 6 feet away. They are simple, softly rounded, and proportionate to a tee. At first glance, the minute hand looks almost skeletonised, but it has Super-LumiNova X1 lume carefully applied only to its edges. This makes it easily distinguishable from the hour hand with its full X1 Treatment.

The new 37.02 Minimalist has a 100m depth rating, so it’s a solid everyday watch. But in the same way that many Grand Seikos are technically tool watches, the suave execution might still relegate it to special occasions. Black goes with everything, which certainly applies to the Ming 37.02 Minimalist. But swap out the smooth FKM rubber for a colourful Jean Rousseau number from their in-house catalogue, and its personality will change. Just as fast and as surprising as the dial inverts from sleek black to a gloss silver-grey as you shift it in the light.

Powering the Ming 37.02 is a Sellita SW300, which might make you sceptical of its price. But have a closer look. It is a Sellita, but darkly different, as a “Sellita for Ming-creation.” The SW300.M1 automatic movement features anthracite skeletonised bridges and a customized rotor. These touches combined make for a big step up in refinement compared to the basic, proven, and solid Sellita movement.

This is one of Ming’s releases, in which movement is not the point. Ming’s latest releases are moving up the grail ladder, so in that respect, this is a welcome return to accessible purity. It is simply one of the best minimalist timepieces to emerge in 2024, full stop. At CHF 3,250 (approx. to £2,890), with stock available for the first time, the temptation will be strong for many.

More details at Ming Watch.

Engine turning doesn’t sound as sexy as the evocative French word guilloché, even if it is disturbingly similar to guillotine. The term stems from the French word guillocher, which means engraving surfaces with repetitive patterns. From the start, guilloché found its way into watchmaking as a pocket watch case adornment as early as the 17th century. As far as we know, the earliest example was a timepiece with an engine-turned case signed by Pierre Duhamel in Geneva in 1680 and today there are many, many styles of guilloché to explore.

What we now know as guilloché is also visible in jewellery, the famed Imperial eggs by Fabergè, trays and other decorative items. Different patterns and movement decorations, like perlage with overlapping circles, are not cut into the metal and are more akin to small-area polishing. All guilloché is stamped or hand-turned on a rose engine, or a straight-line engine that creates geometrics like Clous de Paris (hobnail), sunburst and basketweave. Most guilloché patterns are seen on the dial side of watches. But some occasionally appear on bridgework, and you’ll find many variants on both collectable pens and vintage lighters.

Straight-Line

This style of guilloché does what it says on the tin, offering a linear, sometimes pinstripe look of formality to a dial. In 2024 the small-scale production version of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon in rose gold gives a perfect example of the genre. The dial surface is in solid rose gold as the case, decorated with parallel vertical lines. Straight line, or en ligne, guilloché is beautiful on its own, but here comes across as a sartorial contrast to the abundance of curves, framed in the unusual case by a distinct fluted pattern above the moustache-shaped tourbillon scene at six o’clock.

Basket Weave

As you will have figured out by now, the terms for different guilloché patterns might have original French names that evoke memories of a bygone age, but are all literal descriptions of their appearance, like basket weave. This is another type of straight-line guilloché with minuscule criss-cross patterns that brands like Voutilainen and Breguet use to great effect. As with any type of guilloché, it can be used to decorate an entire dial or, in the case of Breguet’s Classique 7137 Moon Power Reserve, it can be combined with other patterns to emphasise a sub-dial or power reserve with its light-catching properties.

Wave

As a more complex and organic pattern, the wave style of guilloché can be large or small in scale and perhaps finds its most literal interpretation once again in Breguet’s dial work. The sharp-pointed undulating shapes are well known from the brand’s Marine collection, contrasting to the modern case design. They work to bring life to a traditional dial encircled by a circular brushed chapter ring and add to the aquatic theme of the series.

Moiré

The rose engine-cut moiré pattern is small in scale and creates a decoration which might look like a sunburst finish from a distance. It produces a vibrant background and is used to great effect by Chinese watchmaker Atelier Wen, often in a non-watch context. Many watch collectors are pen lovers, and you’ll frequently find guilloché decoration on fountain pens. The Italian brand Grifos specialise in solid 925 silver pens, often boasting a matching moiré-decorated cap and body.

Sunburst

These days, this term is mostly used for brushed, lacquered dials that have a distinctly colour-shifting reflective quality, but it is also a type of straight-line guilloché. As a particularly vibrant example, Laurent Ferrier produced a limited version of their Classic 40mm in platinum with a vividly cut 18K white gold dial. In this example, the hand-decorated dial alternates broad and thin rays emanating from the centre, making for a strong monochrome play between light and shadow.

Écailles De Poisson

Image credit: tickingaway

Yet another fanciful French term, this time signifying a symmetrical overlapping pattern of shapes that resemble fish scales. A striking example is found in the work that dial master Kari Voutilainen has done, like the Grönefeld 1941 Remontoire. Only four examples were made, offering a glamorous textbook example of the genre on an outer ring. Its inner dial has a depth-inducing scaled-down version of the same fluid pattern, adding to the patterned splendour.

Clous De Paris

We opt for the French-language version here, Clous de Paris, as hobnail sounds a bit pedestrian. It comes either stamped or cut from a straight-line lathe and is instantly recognisable from the dial of the G-P Laureato, with its acutely pointed pyramid pattern. This style of guilloché is also unusually found on some movements, which includes the bridgework of the new Biver Automatique, a watch we were impressed with this year.

Tapisserie

The most recognisable of all guilloché are the raised flat-topped squares in the geometrical Tapisserie pattern. It is a more modern take on straight-line guilloché and is not always recognised as such because of it. But combined with an octagonal bezel, the grail-tastic Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is instantly recognisable, just like its beefier brother, the Offshore.

Flinqué

The Flinqué technique often combines spectacularly hypnotic patterns with lacquering over its engraved or stamped pattern. A stunning example is found in the Czapek Genève model ‘Quai des Bergues’. A centred concentric pattern follows the shape of the seconds and date registers at 4:30 and 7:30 on the dial, creating an intense depth to what is already an accomplished dial. To accomplish this, diamond-like shapes are cut in curving overlapping shapes on a rose engine lathe.

Barleycorn

Like many guilloché styles, the shapes that create this pattern do not need explanation. The grain-like shapes are usually small in scale and stamped, or engine-turned in a vertically oriented and arrow-like pattern. It brings with it an understated  sophistication and can be found on more daily-wear pieces like the Longines Master Collection, among many others. Here it creates a more dynamic surface, which looks silver-lacquered until serving up its intricacies at close quarters.

Jean-Claude Biver is undoubtedly an icon among watch enthusiasts and industry stalwarts. And it seems it is a laurel wreath that he is uncomfortable resting on. JC is still energized at 74, and along with the late Nicholas Hayek credited for turning around the Swiss watch industry. In fact Oracle Time might not be here if it wasn’t for his judicious moves in the nineties. But with widespread success comes jealousy.

Cue March last year when fast-talking Jean-Claude dropped his own-brand bombshell, Biver Watches. At the launch my image was one of JC and his son Pierre tiptoeing through a minefield of skeptic opinions. Every media personality wanted a say on the surprisingly modern Carillon Tourbillon minute repeater. In fact, many voices were very critical of the too-modern design, with a price tag starting at CHF 520,000. A value befitting its complex, hand-finished nature. Interestingly most changed their minds when handling the actual watch, a debut that set the brand standard sky high for the next reveal – which I got hands-on with at Geneva Watch Days.

As promised at the launch, Biver and Son are back with the same modern case design. This time, it is reduced from 42mm to 39mm. All the previous and rather modern details are still around, but they are surprisingly understated here. Plus, the Biver airship has descended from above the clouds and flies at a much lower altitude in terms of price. Mind you, after a £500K debut, no watch bearing the capitalised Biver logo could possibly be a daily driver, or could it?

My eyes are widening as I write this because of how ridiculous it sounds, but the three-hand Biver Automatique with its CHF 75,000 starting price has all the ergonomic qualities of a daily fave. I have worn all four versions, and casting aside my own budget restraints, I was smitten. Viewing the Biver Automatique at its own merit, it is an eminently readable, exceptionally finished watch with the best lugs in the business and an exceptional movement.

During my meeting with the brand, I shared a few words with Pierre Biver and what became very clear was his passion. JC has obviously passed on his passion for detail, and Piere has a keen eye for modernity. This becomes abundantly apparent when wearing and examining the circular case with its strong brushed side section. And I’m all about those lugs, quite possibly the sharpest detail on the accomplished 39mm case.

The new Biver Automatique has the same DNA as the high-shooting first release, with soldered lugs. With a gentle curve where they connect with the case it makes the details stand out even more, and their angular drama frames a soft and rounded bezel. The platinum and rose gold versions with precious metal dials offer the cleanest design of the quartet, a relief railroad minute track encircling a vibrant dial with circular-and vertical brushed finishes. To add contrast, all indices and hands are in white gold, but finished with a dark anrthacite colour.

Bold indices traverse the two middle rings of the rose or white gold dial surfaces, with razor sharp dauphine hands to match. The Biver Automatique is a no-date design and the quadrant indices echo the angular drama of the lugs design to great effect. On-wrist I would say that the full rose gold version does dazzle in indoor lighting, making the flamboyant stealth wealth of the platinum version more legible. But viewing both in the warm Genevan sun the rich glimmer of 18K rose gold takes some beating.

Soft, matte leather straps come with the immaculate fit of a matching big-logo buckle, and I am a big fan of the alligator versions for the two Atelier editions. The twin precious metal versions are the regular production models, while the rose gold and platinum Atelier series have stone dials. These will be released in minimal editions each year, and with different semi-precious stone dials.

To maximise the impact of the stone dials, the two Atelier versions of the Automatique come on matte-finished alligator straps. However, precious metal bracelets will also be available for both these and the regular models. As with the standard models, the platinum case is the understated one. But with a matte, brushed obsidian dial that gives it a melancholy charm. The pietersite stone in the rose gold version is like capturing a thunderous night sky or a dark subsea current. It might seem overpowering in the images, but on the wrist, it was spectacular. And in a mid-sized 39mm watch, it offers a massive wrist presence. Sure, the price for this limited piece of stone art-imbued wristwear is considerable. It retails for CHF 89,000 and CHF 108,000 on the upcoming bracelet, but it might just be worth it if you ask me.

Within all four new Bivers, you will find an equal artisanal flourish under the rear sapphire crystal. The JCB-003 movement with its solid 22k gold micro-rotor was developed in close collaboration with Dubois Depraz and considered a base for future releases. Sharp inner angles of hand-finished anglage abound, and the bridges are carefully sculpted. Hand-finished cut-back bridgework reveals elements of the drive train, barrel, and winding system. It is an enigmatic combination of guilloché, anglage and black polishing, giving it character. I especially enjoy the Clous de Paris guilloché patterns that adorn the bridges while adding sculptural drama. I am also drawn in by more guilloché flourish swirling out from the centre of the micro-rotor, making the JCB-003 a visual high point. The 36-jewel movement boasts a 25,200vph running frequency and a solid 65-hours of power reserve.

In hand and on my wrist, I would be hard-pressed to pick a favourite. I was seriously smitten by the smooth charm of the platinum version with its vibrantly brushed white gold dial. It is also very hard to look away from the full-on cinematic experience of the Atelier Collection. Especially the rose gold with its hypnotizing pietersite stone. I am left with a different and more understated image of the brand than at last year’s launch. In my chat with Pierre Biver, while wearing the Automatique, my lasting impression is nuanced. As a person, Pierre emanates a curated, studied passion and it is this passion that is deeply reflected in this dazzling quartet.

Learn more at Biver.

As a seasoned trade fair participant, the Geneva Watch Days 2024 is an easy favourite. Sure, the barrage of news and vast scope of wristwear at Watches and Wonders have it beaten for variety, but nothing more. I will easily admit that this might be a result of my love of Independents, but with big brands also participating, Geneva Watch Days has morphed into something else. Scurrying between the glamour of the Beau Rivage hotel suites, brand showrooms and the formality of the Fairmont, this year’s heat was literal and very much on-wrist. Narrowing down my top five wrist impressions from across my packed days was no easy job, believe you me.

In Geneva, you have to keep your wits about you and plan carefully. Slow down the pace and you run the risk of being charmingly accosted by non-participating brands lurking in the cool shadow of the trees outside the hotels. Attempting to strap on their odd-shaped novelties on your naked right wrist, even stacked as it is with bracelets to match my own carefully selected fair-watch, I’m a vain man after all. Even choosing which watch to wear is a minefield. I’m forever trying to balance making an impact on journalist colleagues and not offending any participating brands. My two choices were a vintage 1997 Constellation and the quirk-monster Otsuka Lotec No.7.5, which I didn’t think Max Büsser would return after fondling it. But my five favourites were all very different from my own choices, proving the variety is indeed the spicy of wrist-life.

Urwerk EMC SR-71

Lab coats on for my first choice, as the EMC is a tech tour de force that makes Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive seem easily engineered. Well, OK, not quite, but this tenth-anniversary tech-fest is your chance to wear some SR-71 Blackbird on your wrist. Winning no less than two GPHG awards in 2014, the EMC was a game changer, and this is the evolution. Consider it an instrument of time or an über-tool watch, this technical tour de force defies all categorization.

With a hulking black body of 47.55mm x 49.57, its 17.58mm thickness is a titanium and steel instrument with a crank handle made from a piece of SR-71 Blackbird legend. Crank it and it will power up a micro Maxon electrical generator. What does it do? Well it shows you the accuracy of the mechanical movement, letting you adjust it at your leisure. Unique, awe-inspiring and surprisingly comfortable with a literally massive presence, simply tool watch mastery on a different level.

More details at Urwerk.

Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition

I promised the editor to pick wisely, and perhaps not watches already featured, but with the Armin Strom I must argue against this noble principle. I even wrote last week’s launch story myself, surprised by the on-paper new and much-improved size of the Dual Time. Why then am I repeating myself you may ask? I had the shortest of meetings in the Armin Strom suite, in the midst of being chucked out by strongman Wei Koh and his all-black suited camera crew.

But it was worth every one of my shortened minutes, as the white gold Dual Time GMT was a small yet big surprise. I know and appreciate Armin Strom as a brand, but have always had a too-large view of their watches, the Dual Time converted me. With its beguilingly oscillating dance at 12, the 39mm watch felt even smaller. I would even use the word dainty. I could not fathom how all 231 parts of the calibre ARF22 were wrangled into the case. And even at 39mm, it had a Pandora’s Box vibe of great depth. Within the open-worked dial, each tiny index on the small twin dials boasted a crisp twinkle in the sunlight, leaving me rather enamoured.

More details at Armin Strom.

L’Epée x MB&F ‘Albatross’

You’ll have to excuse me, as this is not a wristwatch, but hear me out. Nothing beats MB&F for flamboyant tech-tastic horlogerie, and I was ready to feel raffle-obligated by the new M.A.D.1S. in its slimmer guise. But this time, a table clock and automaton had me hypnotized. I had the honour of being the brand’s first appointment on the first day and arrived bang on time, making myself comfortable in the plush suite ten seconds to nine o’clock. Admiring the L’Epée x MB&F ‘Albatross’ on the table next to me, I heard a visible click from within the airship’s belly, and a spectacle ensued.

Accompanied by crisp chimes, each of the airship’s 32 propellers started spinning, and all wristwear was forgotten. The intense craftsmanship that goes into a creation like the ‘Albatross’ is easily understood when it is static, a steam punk-futurist sculpture on its merit. However, the fact that a hand-wound movement adds to a whopping 1,520 parts to power this machine is extraordinary. Each linkage and oversized geartrain is machined and polished to exact tolerances, and yes, I did think it might even take off from its stand.

More details at MB&F.

Czapek Antarctique Polar Sky

In two packed days of meetings and cocktail parties (poor journalists, eh?), there will always be a wrist beauty or two that gets away. Passing the Czapek suite, I had a five-second stolen glance at their Antarctique Polar Sky as it was being shot. But that was all it took. First, you’ll see a clean-cut, Aventurine-glittering version of the Antarctique. But look closely at those indices, and you might understand why I’m in love. The main image above is the sleek standard model, with the Polar Sky below.

The Polar Sky is available in a 40.5mm version and the perfect S with its 38.5mm. With its in-house SXH5 calibre panache and lustrous Aventurine dial, it is a tempting proposal, but for me, it’s about the indices. They are baguette-cut diamonds, but not only that. They are, in fact, of a trademark arrow shape, officially registered as the Czapek Cut. Each is shaped like the original but with an invisible fitting, rocking 24 cut facets of glimmer. Czapek just dropped a Swiss, glittering mic.

More details at Czapek.

Ulysse Nardin Freak X OPS

I will bookend the story with another stand-out moment for me. Although I might get in trouble again because it’s technically not a brand new release, debuting at the tail end of last year. Incredulously, I have never tried on a Ulysse Nardin Freak in peace. The brand was not officially part of the event, but I interviewed the brand’s new managing director, Matthieu Haverlan. In a personal and open conversation on the brand and its direction, I had the pleasure of wearing Matthieu’s personal 43mm Freak X OPS.

I’m not big (sorry) on 40mm+ watches anymore, but the OPS’s curvy, camo-patterned composite case was a real eye-opener. The nylon loop-style strap was soft, maybe the best I’ve tried on. Combined with the lightweight case, the watch feels way more casual than its complexities imply. It comes across as a mighty sharp entry ticket to Freak-dom and much more. With the might of the oscillating balance and spacecraft dial, my respect for the brand and its future-facing ethos has only increased.

More at Ulysse Nardin.

Embargoed Watches at Geneva Watch Days 2024

Some of the most interesting facets of the event are the tantalizing glimpses of embargoed goods. And for me two brands stood out. Greubel Forsey is the single brand, except for Laurent Ferrier, that I will never miss visiting, and neither disappointed. Greubel Forsey’s Double Balancier above had the same knock-out impression on me as last year, no surprise there. But a new and minimalist star shone brightly in the Greubel Forsey suite, busy enough to resemble a Red Bar GTG.

That will have to wait until October, but the biggest embargoed surprise for me might just have been Biver. I am covering the brand’s new and different release here later this week, so stay tuned. It is a new and enthralling foursome. I am back in the office today, daydreaming of these top 5 wrist impressions. Haute Horlogerie cold turkey is not working, but maybe some Greubel Forsey chocolates can offer a brief respite from already missing the Geneva Watch Days.

Readers, it’s another long nomenclature indicative of open-worked splendour at the Geneva Watch Days. Armin Strom has spoiled us with ever-more complex takes on duality, where the watch case is mainly a slim-bezel amphitheatre for the dial. Armin Strom is more about the movement’s moving feast than mere markings and hands. And nothing explores that concept more than the new Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition.

True to form, the brand doesn’t disappoint, and for once, I’ll start with a focus on the case itself. With our love of more manageable diameters, we’ve seen the brand go from 43.4mm down to 41mm via the One Week, offering a strong new release with an integrated bracelet. This time, Armin Strom performs the magic trick of increasingly alluring complications within a smaller case again, with 39mm of 18K white gold. Bravo, chaps!

The lengthy name of Armin Strom’s new Dual Time GMT Resonance First Edition indicates its many charms. And though white gold might give off an air of stealth wealth, this 25-piece limited edition is anything but demure. We know a travel-practical GMT function can be easily displayed using a colourful extra pointer and a 24-hour bezel. But the visual drama of twin movements with Armin Strom’s Resonance expertise is something else. If your life is split between living and working in two separate time zones, consider this a crisply legible celebration of the equal importance of work and leisure.

Armin Strom’s founder, Serge Michel, says, “Having two completely independent watch movements in a single timepiece creates the logical demand for an iteration that displays two time zones. The success of our first Dual Time inspired us to build a smaller and more elegant Dual Time Resonance watch. We further developed our concept and arranged the two movements vertically to do this. And we couldn’t be happier with the result.”

Twin sky blue, grenage-finished dials are centred but vertically offset slightly below the mid-case point. With corresponding twin crowns, they show the time with polished baton hands and a raised black outer chapter ring for crisp legibility. Each also has its own rhodium plate day/night disc. The details are intricate enough to make each dial the main focal point of a haute horology watch on its own, but not here. They are almost subservient to the drama at 12 o‘clock and under the caseback.

Don’t get me wrong, you will notice the finishing on even the smallest dial markers but the movement is something else. It makes for top-grade loupe-ogling with the kinetic spectacle of Resonance being intriguing on a different level. Twin balance wheels are opposed and affixed with curved bridges for a start. Meanwhile, the hypnotic pulsation of Armin Strom’s clutch spring offers the pièce de résistance. It almost appears to be a living object, ‘breathing’ as it transmits vibrations between them to synchronize the running of the twin movements.

The case, with its new ergonomic size, is designed to maximise the dial space, with an insignificantly slim bezel. The requisite Armin Strom tab at 6 is present, while the alligator strap has a light blue lining and stitch pattern to match the twin dial art within. In the box, you will also find an extra light grey strap with pearl-grey stitching to switch up too.

I could easily write a separate long-read story only on the principles behind Resonance. It is a complex design of which Armin Strom is a worthy flag bearer. But I will leave you to go to the Armin Strom homepage to learn more. An open-worked flamboyance carries through to the rear underneath a sapphire case back, to no surprise. Here, the ARF22 movement boasts 231 components and a decent 42-hours of power reserve. That might seem on the low side today. But with two independent regulating systems connected by a resonance clutch spring, the power consumption is significant. All are shown symmetrically with twin tones of anthracite gray and clean Côtes de Gèneve striping.

Nicely bookending the story on the Armin Strom Dual Time GMT is the price of £114,000, a welcome surprise compared to what could easily be triple that price from another brand. What’s more, Armin Strom has pulled off the magic trick of offering this menagerie of magic within a mere 9.05mm thick case, which combined with the diameter makes this all the more astounding for its size. Is this one of the strongest releases of the Geneva Watch Days?

More details at Armin Strom.

I confess: Yes, I still love a good bit of vintage inspiration. Despite often mentioning a stop to retro purchases in my own collection and writing about vintage love peaking or simply wanting more modernity. But I can’t help it. I still have a deep affinity for the time-traveling qualities of a small-cased piece of the mid-twentieth century.

But with so many skin divers and sixties racing-inspired chronographs out there, I crave something else. That might be the angular, asymmetric severity of the Audemars Piguet [RE] Master02 or the delicious full gold Polo ’79. But how about the perfection of a fluid, circular shape with the evocatively named Furlan Marri Disco Volante?

The evolution of the small brand sensation Furlan Marri has culminated in this ‘flying saucer’. Yes, that’s what the beautiful Italian phrase means, or flying disc. What does that mean for the small Swiss brand, and where did they get their inspiration? Type disco volante on a site like Chrono 24, and you’ll likely get 50-60 hits because it refers to watch designs from the fifties up to the nineties that share this extremely round shape. In fact, Omega had the style as early as the pre-war thirties. It is simply one of those shapes that never caught on to the same degree as everyday curvy lugs. Or even rectangles.

Taking the flying saucer out of its travel case, I’m left with a first impression of dressy comfort. And it is of the petite and voluptuous kind. You will be surprised if you are used to wristwatches with lugs at a 46-50mm stretch embracing your wrist. The sensation is very compact, and it wears very differently from anything else. Coupled with the intricate case taking up a lot of its 38mm width, dainty is the word.

The case defies descriptions as it gently flows, with no discernible bezel and the crown nestling in its layered side. Two case bands are bereft of curvature to contrast the soft polished steel. These are softly brushed to accentuate the architectural delights of the 8.1mm thick case, expanding to 8.95mm with the sapphire crystal. And the dial diameter resembles something you’ll find within a vintage 34-35mm watch.

Impersonating a desk clock is purely unintentional.

If you know your vintage watch design, the curvaceousness has traces of seventies Audemars Piguet, sort of. But as with all Furlan Marris, there is a palpable sense of being inspired but never pure homage. The dial owes more to the complexities of the forties and fifties in its multi-layered intricacies. And to top it off, a delightful luminous surprise will hit you with its modernity.

But that doesn’t take away from its discreet elegance, and with today’s small-cased zeitgeist, Furlan Marri has impeccable timing. As a small brand, Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al-Marri seem to hit the nail on the head with each release. And this is no exception. It is nevertheless a bold move, with their existing catalog split in two. The brand has expanded its range of affordable meca-quartz chronographs and added a trio of intricate, big-value flyback chronos. A three-hand Sector range runs in parallel. These designs are a rich fifties evocation of sector design sporting the best cow-horn lugs this side of Lake Geneva. So, the Disco Volante is a dramatic departure, but one that fits perfectly within their portfolio.

The version I have here is the warmest colour, Havana Disco, with salmon pink and browns on a soft leather strap in a warm brown shade. This tapers comfortably and sits in 20mm lugs with the same 38mm lug-to-lug as the watch diameter. This means you’ll only see them from certain angles, making a clean circle-shape the first impression.

There is also a wholly unexpected party piece. This is shown above in a Furlan Marri press shot, as my own was blurry this time, perhaps shocked by the presence of the Super-Luminova inserts. That’s right, Andrea and Hamad have dared to add practical, cool, and very modern lume within the mid-century purity. This adds immense charm and a solid dose of Disco, the party kind, to the Disco Volante. The colours match their Havana, Disco and Celeste references too, underlining the studied approach to a cheeky mix of modern and retro. There are also lume inserts in the hour and minute hand, a great way to equip such a small dial with both legibility and a grin-inducing element of a luminous surprise.

The movement in the Disco is the revered ETA 7001, a.k.a. the Peseux, a calibre that seems to be making a strong return this year. The Peseux caliber 7001 has 17 jewels and is notable for its slim build of only 2.5mm. This movement has been in production since 1971 and is the base movement for vintage calibres, including the Peseux Calibre 7040 and Omega’s calibre 651. For the classicism of the round case, it fits the bill with a simple, solid 17-jewel construction and a big balance wheel surrounded by Côtes de Genève bridgework. This movement choice is a big reason for the Disco being sleek, with the added fortè of a thin but rounded flush case back. And Peseux was the name of a movement manufacturer acquired by ETA in 1985, Fabrique d’ebauches de Peseux.

I must admit to being enamored by the Disco Havana. With the flowing lines of a disco volante case, you’d expect a minimal seventies dial, perhaps a gold or champagne one. However, juxtaposing an early fifties multi-layered two-tone design with a smooth shape brings out the best in both. As for the surprising lume circles, I can only applaud the bravado of Furlan Marri, which will undoubtedly cause some head-shaking in the vintage community. But surely even the most purist collector will break out in a smile and fall for its flashy charm. I certainly did. The new Disco Volante series is available for CHF 2,500 (excl. tax), equivalent to £2,177, from the 16th of July, directly from Furlan Marri.

More details at Furlan Marri.

From dive tool legibility to timeless flamboyance, we run the gauntlet of spears, arrows, swords, and other pointed ways of telling the time. If you love tool watches, your watch hands will be of the straight-cut functional variety, for good reason. And if you know your watch brands, the easily identifiable Mercedes and Snowflake hour hands only underline the strength of good design and brand identity. But have a look at the more frivolous takes on time-telling, including Spade and Breguet hands, and you might find a new love for dressy cool.

Alpha

Often mistaken for the more ubiquitous dauphine hands, the Alpha design has a narrow base and becomes the fierce, long tip of a spear. You’ll find them debatably best represented on the impossibly crisp dial of an A. Lange & Söhne Datograph with a dab of lume. This slim-waisted hand design is also the calling card for the hot-for-2024 brand Parmigiani, with a particularly lithe skeletonised version on their Tonda PF.

Baton

Straight to the point (pun intended) and unmistakably function-forward, the straight-cut baton hands are charmingly honest. A functional creation of the 20th century, they sparked a mighty big debate when AP launched the Code 11:59, but the beauty is in the detail and finishing, so loupeup for a closer look. Our fave might be the slim, rounded cricket bat-shaped version on the graillicious OG Nautilus.

Arrow

Yes, this is literally an arrow-shaped hand, sharp and unmistakable. It’s close to being an Omega trademark from the 1950s, very much visible in the modern Seamaster Planet Ocean series. You’ll also find it on the steel-bezel version of the Speedmaster Legend, a great neo-vintage entry ticket to Moonwatch lore. It’s a charmingly literal shape that makes for superb legibility, especially when offered with liberal application of Super-LumiNova.

Lozenge

The lozenge hand’s diamond shape is an angular charmer, with thin ends and a wide, often folded center making for a distinct and recognizable shape. Lozenge hands can be found in a dressy blued variant on a Cartier Pasha or perhaps most known in a white matt lacquered and bold-lumed form in IWC pilot’s watches. Tool-tastic and the ABC of legibility paired with big Arabic numerals.

Breguet

The only watch hand design that has the mark of its maker, which says a lot for the influence of Abraham-Louis Breguet and his 18th-century brand. The complex swoopy shape of a feuille, or leaf, hand narrows in then surprises with a big circle followed by a needle-sharp end. Breguet has great form in keeping the flame alive on their 2024 watches, while dial mastermind Kari Voutilainen is known for his intricate interpretation of its curvaceous shape.

Cathedral

On this list, the complex design of the Gothic cathedral-style hand is probably the least used of all these days. It’s thought to be inspired by the segmented design of stained-glass windows, with the bulbous end of the hour hand resembling a cathedral (see) cupola. The classic ranges of Montblanc and the evergreen Oris Big Crown are great examples of how to do it right, 2024-style.

Dauphine

The sharp dauphine design has a tapered, diamond-like shape. A short, sharp point protrudes behind the center point, while the razor-sharp end often has a center fold. For us, the best dauphine hands around are the impossibly sharp, hand-polished versions by Grand Seiko. Go in with a loupe, and the Japanese obsession with detail becomes vividly apparent. When done right, a dauphine hand will reflect enough light from the smallest source to make low-light legibility possible without added lume.

Feuille

The organic shape of the feuille hand comes from the French word for leaf and offers a soft elegance to any dial. H. Moser’s minimalist Endeavour Centre Seconds range of no-index dials puts their soft and calming design in a well-deserved spotlight. A good feuille hand might have a slight fold in the middle and do look rather exquisite in an end-curved blued version.

Mercedes

Mercedes hands look uncannily like the symbol of garage prowess, and they are a Rolex trademark. While Tudor might have a snowflake hand visible at ten paces these days, in the eighties and nineties, the Wilsdorf family ties were more visible. And Tudor Submariners were sporting the very same hour hand. And these days, just like driving a Merc, the Y-shaped symbol within a small circle indicates success.

Snowflake

Reviving the big, bold, and divisively angular snowflake hand was part of the massive success that has made Tudor the hot wrist property it is today. The point (sorry) of the paddle-like expanse of the snowflake hour hand is more than brand-boasting, as the big contrast between the hour and minute hand allows for fast-reading clarity when the minutes count on a dive.

Obelisque

The obelisque is an almost frivolously curvy adaptation of the traditional sword design by Blancpain for their Fifty Fathoms diver. Like a sword hand, it goes very wide before curving into a tip. This also has a distinct middle fold that undoubtedly makes the curvaceous design complex to produce. It is simply one of those brilliantly executed shapes that becomes inseparable from an icon, like the Mercedes tip on a Rolex Sub.

Plongeur

Nothing says function over form like a set of plongeur hands. Visible on a thousand microbrands and Seiko SKX mods, they are irrefutably part of the Omega Ploprof legend. A brash, broad typically orange sword minute hand means serious diving potential when teamed with a smaller sword hour hand. The odd shape of the too-large minute hand is part of the life-saving pairing with the bezel, telling you how many minutes of air you have left below the surface.

Sword

Sword hands are shaped exactly like their more deadly namesake: slim at the base, becoming wider towards the end with a sharp tip. They often have a delicate fold running down the center, making lume application difficult unless you lacquer the entire hand or use a flat design. And we must say Cartier does a killer version, with their bright blue interpretation popping off a chic silver Tank dial.

Pencil

Also viewable as a kind of sword hand design, the pencil does exactly what it says on the tin, resembling a straight pencil with a simple pointed end. A great example is the functional form of equal thickness hands on a Panerai Luminor, even if we secretly wish the brand would release a smaller, round watch for a change. Pencil hands are mostly found on sports watches, filled with lume or with a cheeky lumed end.

Syringe

Watch hand designs are quite literal in their nomenclature, the syringe design being a case in (a sharp) point. These are classic mid-century hands known from pilot’s watches, and are highly legible, while its impossibly sharp point allows for exact readout of minutes or seconds on the dial. A sharp and particularly angular example of the breed is found on the Blancpain Bathyscaphe series.

Spear

A spear hand is like a feuille design but slimmer, elongated, and with a sharper tip. We’d be lying if we didn’t confess to a deep desire for the Laurent Ferrier Assegai spear design, with its impossibly slender interpretation. Just like the rounded shape of feuille hands and the complexities of Breguets, the slimmer they are, the more time-consuming the hand-finishing process, making hands a big part of the details that make haute horology stand out.

Spade

The spade hands are not that usual these days and are predominantly seen on off-center brands like Ulysse Nardin with their marine-inspired sports watches. Like a feuille hand, the hour hand will have a slender, sweeping shape, culminating in a spade-shaped end. By that, we mean the curvaceous playing card variety, not the garden implement. Stand-out ambassadors for this quirky design are Japanese independents Kikuchi Nakagawa with their delightfully perfect black-polished, rather sexy version.

Starting with one of brand founder Giles Ellis‘s rather poetic quotes, the tone for Schofield’s latest watch is set for a very different kind of wristwear: “In summary, the Obscura is an artifact. Something that, if discovered in the undergrowth, should probably be left alone or handed in.” Quite. Look at the spacecraft canister-cum-travel box, and you’ll get it. With its massive aluminium and steel construction, it weighs in at 1,630 grams and resembles an Alien transmitter or fusion power source.

All of Mr. Ellis’ creations are different, and Giles himself appears as a cross between hipster scholar and mad scientist. To my mind, all this creativity is cause for rapturous celebration while also making for vastly polarizing designs. A truth that is evident in the patterned steel of the hand-crafted futurism of the Obscura.

The Schofield Watch Company has remained a studied choice for discerning collectors of crisp, modern designs without a single touch of homage. And that premise is remarkable while the watch industry at large surfs the frothing wave of nostalgia, a self-powering beast that will not relent. The Schofield Obscura battles the trends, taking a head-on approach, a large, 44mm-cased David versus the trendy, small-cased Goliath. His ammunition is rendered in matte, clean-cut metallurgy with sharp graphic dials. There are no polished applied indices and sixties sword hands here. Yes, that makes the watch an acquired taste, but Giles the Sussex Don likes it that way. As do I, for that matter.

This is why the Obscura is quite remarkable and bears a closer look. It feels like a different beast while still being part of a quirky South Coast family of micro machines for the wrist. In fact, the brand’s ethos and very essence defy logic and inspire poetic prose in me, the Journalist. So, how does the Obscura look and feel? Big and heavy.

However, unlike most other first impressions, that’s a compliment that leaves a mark while the unpacking of details commences. And for the wearer of the Obscura, said unpacking will not be complete after day 1, such is the seemingly minimal complexity. And it is why handling a Schofield 44mm watch differs greatly from perusing press shots. Starting with the basics before strapping it on, it has a jaw-dropping case of Damascus steel. Like some alien lizard skin, the surface is tactile, much more than appears on shots of the patterned surface.

Damascus steel is a process known from ancient sword and knife-making, involving hammering and folding steel to harden it. In the case (sorry) of this British metallurgic marvel, the 44mm case has metal forged by Vegas Forge in the US, where massive Nazel hammers have pounded many layers of steel into textured submission. Upon arrival in Sussex, Giles dons a lab coat and protective gear and gets to work acid-etching the surface and buffing it up. The result is a large but curvy-comfortable case that looks organic with monochrome complexity.

The big black DLC crown has the trademark Schofield nail groove and broad design, with a fiery pink lumed logo. As with all details by Giles, it leaves you with a feeling of understanding. Understanding a design process has taken close to seven years for the Obscura to come to life. With its dark look, the shape of the crown also offers a similar totemic vibe as the container for the watch itself. The dial seems like a very restrained version of Schofield’s aesthetics with a soft, mute scale of greys and greens and a cheeky red pop in the small seconds’ lollipop pointer.

But within its deep grooves lie a scintillating blend of Super-LumiNova waiting to be awakened. Of the two main hands, only the hour hand is lumed, matched to the skeletonized minute hand’s cut out. At dusk, they are encircled by a bright mix of blues, reds, and greens that subvert the Obscura’s character. Perhaps it is signalling for the Mothership to return to Earth? No matter how you interpret its wrist-flashing colours, the Obscura leaves you feeling bombarded by impressions, and it is carried on to the quirky-cool case back.

The rather well-made screw-in caseback in steel has a lot to offer. And like the grooved dial with its shape-shifting abilities, there is much to unpack here. Instead of the standard clear sapphire case back insert, Mr. Ellis has gone for a scientific, enigmatic threesome. Three smoky sapphire windows offer small glimpses of the hand-wound Unitas/ETA 6498-2 calibre with 46-hours of power reserve.

The almost symbolic (Predator-symbol anyone?) design would look out of place on any other watch. But the triple-threat caseback feels a natural part of Giles’ saturated imagination. It also leaves me with a fitting conclusion. The world needs Giles Ellis and Schofield, and Obscura’s inspired take on horology is well worth its £9,558, including VAT. I have a feeling that the very personal 40 pieces will sell out rather quickly; in fact, they deserve to be.

More details at Schofield Watch Company.

With a dial made from a piece of avionic wartime history, this Praesidus field watch is as evocative as they get. This year marks the 80th anniversary of that glorious day in Normandy, marking the end of  WWII. While that might feel relegated to the history books, with the situation in Eastern Europe today, it bears remembering. The Mil-spec-focused brand Praesidus offers a physically imbued talisman by Introducing the Praesidus Watch Co. A-11 C-47. And with it, we are served a timely reminder of our not-too-distant past.

With this release, Praesidus Watch Co. has created three versions. A Utah Sand version with a dial that includes, yes, sand from the storied Utah Beach. I am looking closer at the second version, the dark green C-47, having unboxed it today. The third has a patinated metal dial. All are made from aviation-grade aluminium from a vintage C-47 door. With a design based on their successful A-11 Marston watch series, the A-11 C-47 is evocative of an American Mil-spec service watch. This new series brings a literal piece of history to your wrist. And it sits within a tough 38mm field watch of the short-lugged variety with a warbird-sourced dial.

Praesidus is a brand with an expanding portfolio of vintage-inspired wristwear that is different. Akshay and his team have a purist view, which involves small case sizes, often sans a dial logo, to keep things clean-cut. And it works. The inspiration has been the vintage A-11 Military Specification Watch, a readable, rugged tool. The A-11 was produced in over 150,000 pieces to equip the US Military during WW2. It laid the foundation for what we today define as a “field” watch. With large white indexes printed on a black dial, it is about readability at all costs. I had a chat with Akshay about the story behind this series of D-Day watches, and he told us:

“Praesidus is proud to continue its tradition of commemorating D-Day with unique timepieces. We started the brand a few years ago and can now tell a much better story. Building upon the initial Marston Mat watch, we’ve created two more interesting and detailed editions. And they now draw on experience from what we’ve learned in the last two years”.

As this is a new iteration of an established D-Day series, we ask Akshay about what’s new with the new releases. He tells us more: “These new watches incorporate authentic elements like Utah Beach sand and a C-47 Skytrain part (an actual door). All this while remaining accessible at a better price point than previous models. We’ve sourced parts from a C-47 D-DAY veteran and worked on a Sand dial that includes actual sand.”  This says much about Praesidus’ commitment to an authentic take on vintage. And even as we’re surely nearing Peak Vintage, a pure sense of purpose always works.

The C-47 D-Day watch I’m wearing can be viewed through different lenses. This includes the crisp basics of a good field watch. I’ll admit this term is being bandied about for anything with a slight military vibe and a clean aesthetic, but size means a lot. With this short-lugged design of 45mm, the feeling is just right. On the wrist, it feels vintage without new-age resizing, keeping its ethos clean. And I enjoy the evocative Mil-spec aesthetic.

However, I admit to having an ever-changing relationship with NATO straps here, but that might change. The Praesidus team has picked the right combo for this thick-weave nylon job. And by adding matching sand-blasted hardware, it feels the biz. The main olive green colour perfectly fits the chameleon-like green dial. Meanwhile, the silvery three-stripe almost perfectly matches the dial markings. Adding to the allure, you will see clear striations in the metal if you look at the image above. The metal sourced from a war-flown C-47 airplane is war-worn, but the charming traces have been untouched.

For some reason, to my eyes, the matte, silken surface of the case also feels quite modern. Matched with the tonal perfection, I enjoy the layered NATO fit. That is, until I try the C-47 on a vintage leather strap I have fitted to another Praesidus review watch. Yes, it is indeed a strap monster, and there is no denying the slimmer fit on leather.

There is still a deep vintage vibe at play, but the comfort of the distressed strap dresses it up while making the most of its slim case. The crown is reassuringly big, as befits a good field watch, and a screw-down design ensures a tough 100m depth rating. Strip away the thought-provoking details, leaving you with a very good everyday watch.

While the other three versions of the Praesidus A-11 C-47 have rich beige or black printed dial details, the C-47 has crisp white markings. Their silvery tone washes away the often pastiche feel of a vintage design. The combo of the rather modern sand-blasted steel dials up quite the timeless vibe. I would also applaud Praesidus for omitting all text from the dial. We’ve all seen how much a font or logo can make or break a design. But here, the watch speaks for itself.

I’ll conclude with the Praesidus A-11 C-47 being a good stand-alone piece without knowing the history behind the D-Day inspiration. But this is about Akshay’s thought process behind the series. And underneath that deep green lacquer lies a piece of wartime history. A lacquer that lets scratches and striations from an actual C-47 door shine through. And you can’t help being touched by the sentiments of our troubled past 80 years ago, to tell the truth.

Today’s situation in Eastern Europe reminds us of how fragile our seemingly calm world order can be. Inside the matte, comfortable case resides the well-known Miyota 9039. It is part of Miyota’s premium range and a solid movement. You will also find it specced in watches far more expensive than the $545 (approx. £429) A-11 C-47 from Praesidus Watch Co., presenting rather good value for money.

More details at Praesidus.

Quartz is a term imbued with many connotations, from 1970s market-imploding Bond villainy to a £50 Timex. A vast majority of small Swiss brands disappeared during the Quartz Crisis of the early 1970s, and it has taken the industry close to half a century to claw back market shares. But even with the market’s intense focus on small-cased vintage dive watches and Swiss craftsmanship, the tide has turned.

Even haute horology caters to the tempting affair of non-mechanical power. While closing in on the Big Swiss in the luxury market, Grand Seiko offers lab-grown quartz power visible under a sapphire crystal case. And it’s been a long time coming. Here we take a look at five of the best grail quartz watches you should know about.

Rolex Oysterquartz

Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date ref. 5100, image credit: Fellows

You can take this as our top tip for a sleeper investment, as the chunky Rolex Oysterquartz is one of the last affordable entry tickets to the world of the Coronet. Rolex jumping on a trend is not something we see these days, with one-millimetre tweaks to the Submariner still being discussed two years after the fact.

But the 1970s saw market shares and wrist enthusiasm drop to untold levels as the market was flooded with bargain-value watches. With Seiko on point, untold levels of accuracy were available, so without manual winding or service costs, Switzerland was paralyzed. Patek made a move with their complex Beta calibres, and Rolex introduced the grail quartz watch; Oysterquartz.

It might have a crystal heart, but it is also Rolex’s only foray into a smoking hot market for integrated bracelets today. Rolex surprised the market with their first quartz watch without the Oysterquartz name, with the limited Date ref. 5100. Again, this was powered by the Beta 21 movement, a quartz calibre developed by an unusual grouping of over 20 Swiss watch brands. Yes, in the face of the Japanese, they united, forming the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) with a mission to create Swiss-made quartz movements.

Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date ref. 19019, image credit: Bonhams

Made to offer competition against Seiko and others, Beta 21 came out in 1969, followed by Beta-1 and 2. More than 6,000 Beta-21 quartz calibres powered the Omega Electroquartz, IWC Da Vinci, Patek Philippe 3578, and Rolex. Evolving over the years to more reliable movements like the calibre 5355 and 5335 in the 1980s, lasting until 2004. Our choice would easily be the stealth-wealth-oozing Oysterquartz Day-Date ref. 19019. It had a white gold case, a fluted bezel, and a perfect white gold integrated President bracelet. This is a weighty salute to the reliable world of unusual Rolex quartz-wear.

F.P. Journe Elegante 40mm

Today, the F.P. Journe Elegante is, for many, the king of quartz, and a wholly unexpected move from Francois-Paul Journe. The case shape is delightfully different from any FPJ and reminiscent of Franck Mullers from the 1990s perhaps, with a techy-modern twist. The biggest surprise is that you can get it in a massive 47mm size with a full lume dial. Yes, we would give most of our hard-earned cash to be a fly on the wall in that design committee meeting. The 40mm version is our sweet spot when cushion-and-tonneau cased watches wear large.

It exudes a chic but tough demeanour that’s hard to categorise, a trait we’d associate with some of the best watch designs. And the concept makes perfect sense as a throw-it-on alternative to your safe-queen Chronometre Bleu. It simply constitutes one of the best two-watch collections on the planet if you’re into F.P. Journe’s design language and have the budget. Like an Aquanaut to a Patek QP, with a decent price, it is a perfect way to keep your collection within the grail-sphere. Yes, this is your easy-going and casual choice for a day at the beach or out on the sailing yacht.

Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY011

Let’s be honest, the smoothest flow of any seconds hand in the world comes from the Seiko Spring Drive movement, but is it a quartz grail? The power comes from a normal mainspring like any watch, with the choice of automatic or manual winding, so where do Seiko’s mythical lab-grown quartz crystals come into play? A pure quartz-powered watch has its battery sending electricity to an oscillator and the vibrations are detected by an integrated circuit (IC) that moves the gears forward by a clicky second. Within the Spring Drive calibre, the quartz-tech is in the tri-synchro regulator, and it’s mechanically powered.

It generates a tiny electrical pulse with a crystal oscillator and an electronic brake. This maintains a constant speed of a glide wheel that offers the creamy smoothness of silk that makes the second hand so captivating. Add the bonus of a +/- 15 seconds a month (for the SBGY011) accuracy, and this de facto hybrid calibre is seriously impressive. Grand Seiko offers its smooth mechanical prowess (not to be confused with meca-quartz, you know) in a host of watches, from brawny divers to dressy classics.

We’re all about understated chic and would not hesitate to put the clean lines of the SBGY011 on our quartz grail watch list. It takes the sharpest Grand Seiko 40mm case design, the 44GS, slimmed down to 10.5mm and paired with a clean dial design. And while we understand the need for functionality, the calm aspect of a no-date dial is a zen-win. This is especially true when the textured white surface makes the hand-polished indices stand out, with a pop-fresh blue seconds hand for company. The 9R31 calibre delivers a strong 72-hour power reserve, while its dressy vibe belies the usual solid build of a Grand Seiko, including a 100m depth rating.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quartz

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quartz ref. 67650ST.OO.1261ST.01

There is no disputing the standing of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and we’d love to get our hands on one if the supply situation and pre-owned values calm down. But the quartz versions of the Genta grail are easier to get your mittens on if you enjoy the Timothèe Chalamet-vibe of small-cased cool. The steel version ref. 67650ST is a smooth-ticking 33mm, which works if you’re small-wristed and enjoy the vintage look. And if you’re averse to the tick of battery-powered watchmaking, this Royal Oak comes with a clean, black dial without a seconds hand.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Quartz ref. B35066, image credit: Pandolfini

All the right tapisserie dial details are present, and it comes across as a more compact, distilled version of Genta’s OG. But if you’re brave, as vintage quartz movements can be very fickle, look at the oddball ref. B35066. Like the glitzy, brushed two-tone love child of a Cartier and an AP, the rectangular Jumbo is pure 1970s glamour. At 32x41mm, this is a slim, still recognisably Genta-cool offbeat version that no one will recognise, starting at under £10K for a good one. Once your eyes get used to the shape-twisted Royal Oak vibes, just one look at this might have you falling in love. And yes, you will be trawling the high street looking for a beige suit and brown, pointy Chelsea boots.

Patek Philippe Ref. 3587/2

Patek Philippe ref. 3587/2, image credit: Phillips

For many collectors, even non-savvy watch aficionados, the Nautilus is the grail of grail watches. A world of collectors decried the final vacuum-sealed ref. 5711 pieces being picked up by a select few. But, while the OG porthole-inspired edition retains a special place in many people’s hearts, even Patek leaned into the world of battery power with the Beta calibre. And if the image above hints at a dainty 30mm dress-number, the rare ref. 3587/2 is actually a healthy 43mm, which was a gargantuan size for a watch in 1971.

To be honest, that’s still big today, and the big-boi presence of this squircular grail timepiece is ensured by the weighty glimmer of white gold. With a typically 1970s smooth vibe, this battery babe has the unusually sporty touch of lumed indices and some diver-esque sharp, folded sword hands. Sold at auction by Phillips for $38,100, with the inclusion of a lugless, quirky-glamorous white gold bracelet, it represents rather good value with its deep navy dial. And it’s not the only Patek with one of the original Beta movements out there, so keep your eyes peeled and you might yet stumble upon a bargain of the precious kind.

The Freak stands for pure futurism and imagination, and Ulysse Nardin is not resting on its laurels. The new Ulysse Nardin Freak S Nomad is nothing if not jaw-dropping. And if you are a wristwatch newbie, your jaw will drop even lower when I tell you this concept is over two decades old. It is now highly evolved but made its debut in 2001, a brief year into the new century.

Let me transport you back to the dawn of our new century and the Ur-Freak. Judging by today’s big wrist hits, time(keeping) has seemingly stood still since the late Sixties. Such is the never ending wave of vintage inspiration, and we get it. Nothing beats the importance of watch-wearing roleplay, whether your daydream involves flying, diving, or piloting a spacecraft. The latter comes courtesy of the Freak, last seen in the dark Freak OPS from late ’23.

Imagine being at Baselworld in 2001, where the carousel Tourbillon-flaunting Freak was unveiled. Thanks to the forward-thinking minds of then-CEO Rold Schnyder and horological mastermind Ludwig Oechslin. There are many imaginative dial designs but with the entire movement as a turning hand? Being a fly on the wall in the first sketch-up meeting between Oechslin and Schnyder would have been priceless. And the brand hasn’t looked back since. We had the pleasure of sitting down with Oechslin at last year’s Watches and Wonders, an event akin to having an audience with Da Vinci.

This year, the avant-garde vibe remains, and the latest calibre UN-251 is still a Prima Ballerina rotating slowly, covered by a large sapphire crystal. Sure, 45mm doesn’t resonate with everyone in 2024, but even with my love of small chic, I would willingly make an exception. Ergonomics and everyday wearability are not everyone’s priority when considering a £100K+ watch, but it is present. In fact, the titanium and carbon fibre case is as light as it is comfortable, if my encounter in Geneva last year is anything to go by.

The carbon fibre brings a techy dark vibe, with two pieces flowing from lug to lug, adding an organic touch to the mid-case. The front and rear of the tactical case of the Freak S Nomad is dark DLC titanium, still baffling me with its crown-less design. Yes, the time is still set by twisting the faceted bezel, while the efficient Grinder®-powered automatic movement can be topped up by turning the actual caseback. So far, tour de force, and the appeal is not lessened even having tried on a few Freaks (does that constitute getting my Freak on?).

However, beyond the fascination with an exemplary materialization of case design, the star is undoubtedly the dial. And as with any Freak, this is not your usual fare. It is very legible despite what resembles an intricately detailed spacecraft to all eyes. The deliciously thin twin balances appear as hovercraft propellers or cooling fans, not of our world.

The UN-251 calibre rocks Silicon balance wheels and hairsprings, tech-heavy DIAMONSIL-coated escapements, and its double oscillator linked by a vertical differential. The movement, including the Grinder® automatic winding system, has 20 patents. And while you’re taking all this in, you might notice that the slow ballet of the entire Freak S Nomad movement is set on a very traditional stage.

What constitutes a dial is an hour disc decorated with the centuries-old craft of hand-turned guilloché. Like a Breguet pocket watch from two centuries ago, every disc differs slightly. The hand-crafted world of guilloché is fascinating on any watch dial, taking on a deeper meaning here. And it is not an actual dial but a slowly rotating hour disc. It takes 240 continuous movements over three hours to cut the interweaved diamond shapes of the disc with its beige CVD gold coating. It offers a studied contrast to the angular shapes of the enticing carousel movement.

But more importantly for me, its presence links together centuries of watchmaking, underlining the importance of Ulysse Nardin’s innovative approach by its mere presence. The future is indeed here, rotating slowly in synchrony in a limited edition of 99 pieces at £130,510.

More details at Ulysse Nardin.

We’re all familiar with famous architects, directors, and fashion designers like Tom Ford creating hot fits. And while we know that the best vintage Ferraris were designed by Pininfarina, what about the watches we love? Who are the watch designers creating these works of art and mechanics on our wrists? Except for the late Mr. Genta, you might not know their names, as for many years the watch industry kept its cards pretty close to its chest.

When producing the perfect watch, good design goes far beyond Instagram’s obsession with Octagons and porthole inspiration. Many of the greats are still working today, including big hitters like Bulgari’s Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani. But this is about the names that don’t get dropped, a who’s who of the those designers whose influence too often goes under the horological radar.

Jorg Hysek

German-born Jorg’s heyday was at a time when industrial designers were part of the company wallpaper, rather than portrayed in the sales literature. Hysek had a finger (or should that be a pencil?) in every horological pie, including work for Cartier, Seiko, Rolex, and many more. But his oeuvre was always the Vacheron Constantin 222 back in 1977.

Some of us remember the days before the bracelet-grail hype when you could find one for five grand. Today a battered 34mm automatic is £25K, partly thanks to Vacheron’s shrewd 2022 Historiques re-issue. Jorg Hysek is still working today, though focusing increasingly on art for delightful art’s sake, visible on his website.

Vacheron Constantin 222 Ref. 11990

Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222

Many a timepiece has languished in the shadow of Genta grails, like the Nautilus. But today the hotly contested arena of integrated bracelets includes a recently revived Jorg Hysek creation. As the precursor to the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, many still believe the 222 to be the work of Genta. With its sleek case, scalloped bezel, and rhomboid bracelet links it’s back in the spotlight, and we’re still hoping for a steel version.

To be honest, we were surprised at the studied restraint of Vacheron not releasing a re-issue of its lesser-known sports grail. The market for integrated-bracelets is scorching hot, and we do find it a near-perfect design. Last year’s reissue (which we reviewed here) in 18K full gold was a power move by what is the oldest watch manufacturer still operating under its own name.

Richard Habring

IWC Doppelchronograph Ref. 3711 (1992)

Richard Habring is the quietly spoken movement mastermind you will not recognise unless you’re a collector with a penchant for IWCs. This is where Habring created the world’s first affordable split-second chronograph 31 years ago. He did it through a stroke of genius re-working the everyman-calibre Valjoux 7750. The chronograph is still one of the most complex complications bar a QP or Sonnerie, and the fascination remains.

Richard Habring’s personal Portugieser ref. 3712 prototype was the first IWC model based on the ETA Valjoux 7750, image credit: Phillips.

ETA’s Valjoux 7750 – the most widely used, if not loved, Swiss chronograph movement. IWC valued Habring’s calibre enough to make the decision to put Habring’s innovative split-seconds chronograph into the brand’s Portugieser model, Pilot Doppelchronograph, and the now neo-vintage Da Vinci.

Habring’s movement was also the base of the Il Destriero Scafusia, one of the most complicated series-produced watches. IWC’s patent ran out about a decade ago, so today you can get a bespoke version of Richard’s famed calibre built and signed-off by the man himself.

Together with his wife Maria Kristina, Richard started their eponymous brand Habring² (see?) in 2004. Their small Austrian atelier offers off-the-shelf and completely bespoke wristwear, with a deep emphasis on in-house production. One of their latest offerings is the sweet-sized Doppel 38, their first 38.5mm-sized watch with the iconic movement, their version being the Calibre A11R_H1.

Hajime Asaoka

Hajime Asaoka Tsunami (2013), image credit: Phillips

Art Deco is a rarer theme than you’d think, despite Cartier’s massive resurgence with their Tank. Hajime Asaoka however has taken the elegant style from the early part of last century and made it his own, blending it with a semi-industrial monochrome vibe and obsessive detail. This year the secret is out, with a Hajime Asaoka Tsunami 2013 going for over six times its reserve at a Phillips auction.

Hajime Asaoka Tourbillon Noir

It is all the more impressive when we know Asaoka to be a self-taught watch designer, starting in 1992 as a designer with a focus on furniture and electronic appliances. Hajime Asaoka taught himself watchmaking through George Daniel’s book Watchmaking, and between 2005 and ‘07 he designed his second watch, which had a Tourbillon. After producing three prototypes, his first sale was as recent as 2011, with the Tourbillon 1.

Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 3 Hisui

With his accessible brand Kurono Tokyo, Hajime Asaoka has made his signature design cues affordable, with hand-crafted small-cased wristwear. New owners are welcomed as members of a small, exclusive club, but we’re not talking VIP lounge vibes. Imagine the warm atmosphere of a traditional Machiya townhouse with tatami mats and a 150-year-old Bonsai tree outside and you’ll get it.

Emmanuel Gueit

Emmanuel Gueit’s personal Royal Oak Offshore, image credit: Phillips

We all know Gerald Genta designed the Nautilus and the Royal Oak, right, so where does Emmanuel Gueit fit into this octagonal puzzle? Love it or hate it, but there’s no denying the big waves caused by the Royal Oak Offshore. The responsibility was remarkably given to 22-year-old Gueit to create the 42mm bold version of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 20th Anniversary edition.

It became an outsized celebration of the magic octagonal-bezel grail and revamped Audemar Piguet’s image. Big, brawny luxury brands and latter-day hits like the Big Bang might never have seen the light of day if not for Gueit sending the Royal Oak for a stay at his virtual boot camp. Today we can recognise the importance of the RO’s big brother opening a new door to the luxury sports casual-crowd sporting £4K Dior Air Jordans.

Rolex Cellini 50505

But while skeptical at first, devoted traditionalist fans of the slimmer Royal Oak took to the Offshore, as its sporty alibi enabled a brand loyalty many brands would pay good money for. Gueit is one of many designers from the quiet days of the nineties and noughties, before the massive resurgence of Genta.

With a huge portfolio to his name that includes Piaget, Harry Winston, Hermès, and Zenith, it reads like the who’s who of horology. But Emmanuel isn’t all about the big money flex. In fact, he designed the very antithesis of the brawny Offshore, the quietly spoken revamped Rolex Cellini back in 2014.

Eric Giroud

At Baselworld 10 years ago, one designer stood out in the crowd. Eric Giroud’s designs were in eight different brand booths with 10 designs. And we don’t even know if that was his peak. Eric is an award-winning designer known for such avant-garde goodness as the sleek hypercar-inspired MB&F HM8 Mark 2.

With his signature bold-framed specs, he has had a hand in numerous designs over the years, including many MB&Fs. He’s also been associated with Max Büsser’s mad (M.A.D actually) lab of horology since its inception and the 2006 HM1.

MB&F LMX

Known as the secret weapon of many Swiss watch brands, Eric has penned designs that cover all tiers, while usually wearing a fave seventies Carrera ref. 1158CHN. As we have seen before, some of the best designs in the watch world come from non-product designers, as is the case with Giroud who opened his architecture practice in 1989, only later being drawn into the world of graphic design and watches.

Swarovski Crystallium

You’ll find his creative output in watches from Tissot to Vacheron Constantin, with big-budget indies including Badollet, MCT and Harry Winston showing off his vast spectre of style. Eric Giroud also won the coveted Red Dot award in 2013 with the mad Swarovski Crystallium.

The Sacred Crafts x Indies Trader ‘The Treasure Hunter’ Limited Edition

Sustainability in watchmaking is more than a movement; it’s a way of life. Well, at least if you’re eco-friendly maker Sacred Crafts. Working with environmentally minded travel company Indies Trader, the Treasure Hunter is both a serious chunk of retro diving fun and made from reclaimed materials, primarily with its seaglass dial. Available in a trio of variants – the bi-colour Diver Down, the stealthy Sea of Darkness and the eye-catching Blue Horizon – each comes with an interchangeable bezel for a flash of personalisation on top of the inherently unique nature of reclaimed materials. It’s also a lot of watch for the money, which any would-be ocean salvager would be happy with.

The Specs

• 44mm reclaimed bronze, stainless steel or titanium case with 300m water resistance
• ETA Calibre 2824 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve
• $4,500 USD (approx. £3,305), limited to 50 pieces, available at The Sacred Crafts.

Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Spider Re-Edition

I do love it when vintage re-issue brands take a more out-there design and embrace it, and this is a superb example. The sleek 38mm case with a mere 11mm thickness is a wild-dialled wolf in dressy clothing, transfixing your gaze with its spider-esque looks. True to its original sunray silver brushed dial, a spider pattern of lines emerge from the centre, ending with beige lume-pips by the indexes. Damn cool, and dressy by look but a tough explorer by nature, really? Well, a double domed sapphire crystal and a 200m depth rating sure says so.

The Specs

• 38mm, stainless steel case with 200m water resistance
• Soprod Calibre P024 automatic movement
• From €650 EUR (approx. £545), available at Nivada Grenchen.

Delft Watchworks Oostport Transparent Date

As a thoroughly modern creation, the Delft Watchworks has a strong presence. As a partnership, one half of Delft Watchworks is Michiel Holthinrichs. He is an artisanal watchmaker with an eponymous brand, and this is an accessible entry into his thoughtful design and architectural inspiration. With a broad brushed hour chapter ring and sharp indexes overhanging a beguiling sapphire inner dial, the date window pops out at half past four, while we can see the entire date wheel under the matte sapphire inner dial, reminding us of the passage of a month.

The case is superb value for the price, with scalloped sides and no expense spared to make this a stand-alone piece of wrist-art, which punches way above its price. Yes, there is a blue dazzling dial or a demure grey version, but with its skeletonized hands this is a strong contender for best microbrand sapphire dial around.

The Specs

• 40mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance
• Calibre STP 1-11 automatic movement
• €849 EUR (approx. £715), available at Delft Watchworks.

Arcus Tropos

Dreams can come true, how about a sub $1,000 monopusher? A very unusual chronograph complication for a microbrand, but the Tropos is it, literally. And it works. With a modern oyster-style bracelet and slender brushed and beveled case the dial seems transposed from another decade. With its late forties-early fifties vibe it somehow works perfectly, with its beige lume popping off the elegant black dial.

The art of budgeting is made possible by the hand wound Cal.AR-01 based on a Seagull 1901, and the Sinn-like dial is superb. Through sheer determination the Arcus conversion from two button chrono to monopusher is impressive, and a first for this movement. The Tropos is simply very, very tempting, and never found at this price point.

The Specs

• 39mm stainless steel case with 50m water resistance
• Arcus Calibre AR-01 (ST 1901 conversion), hand-wound monopusher chronograph movement
• $699 USD (approx. £520), available at Arcus.

SOVRYGN Calendar

Angular is the word, angular and Bold with a capital B. From the polished corner facets of the brushed and polished bracelet to a dynamic chunk of a steel case. The SOVRYGN Calendar juxtaposes the muscular and delightfully non-homage case design with a crispy fresh blue dial. If you’re an old petrolhead like me, you will get associations to the fabled Porsche Gulf livery, and that’s purely a good thing. On a busy yet balanced dial, dark blue calendar sub-dials are an elegant touch. Teamed up with the orange zest of candy-popping pointers and minute track, the vibrant look will easily cheer up the murkiest autumn morning.

The Specs

• 39mm stainless steel case with 100m water resistance
• Miyota Calibre 9100 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve
• £388, available at SOVRYGN.

Forstner A-12

Many of you will know Forstner as the source for vintage-perfect bracelets like the slim and sharp Komfit for the Speedmaster. Now Forstner have stepped onto the microbrand scene with the A-12, a natty re-creation of the sixties Bulova Astronaut, and I want one. You might bash re-issues, but Forstner have been as accurate here as they are with their comfortable bracelets.

It comes on the delicious bullet-bracelet and provides superb, and reliable quartz value. A pure brushed steel tool with a minimalist touch and well, pitch perfect cool. Three hands and a 24 hour GMT scale? YES, the ticking seconds hand is gone, while the broad GMT arrow remains. A brilliant move, even if we’re not averse to quartz anymore, are we?

The Specs

• 39mm brushed stainless steel case with 50m water resistance
• Swiss made Ronda 515-24hr GMT quartz movement
• Pre-orders at $475 USD (approx. £350), available at Forstner.

Justin Richardson Octavo Blue Slate

Delicately sized at 38mm, the Justin Richardson Octavo is a watch that looks like it’s pulled from a long lost Genta sketchbook, dusted off and reimagined. There is a distinct seventies glamour over the 18ct rose gold beveled octagon case, and the solid silver dial. Through an octagonal sapphire crystal the view is pure panache, with a ripple-effect blue surface as vivid as Justin’s imagination.

With a pop of a guilloché sub dial at six, the quirky dial design brings distinctive style, and is firmly placed in the upper echelon of microbrands. This is the head-turning everyday watch of a raffish vintage collector that doesn’t own a single pair of jeans. And, let’s be frank, at £12,800 for an 18K rose gold case, it even represents solid value. Yes Sir, that is indeed the glimmering temptation of a 0.17ct diamond set in the crown.

The Specs

• 38mm 18K rose gold case
•  Sellita SW360-1 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve
• £12,800, available at Justin Richardson.

TIDLÖS Marin

The new TIDLÖS Marin is exactly as its Scandinavian name implies, Timeless. For those of you hankering after a tough automatic diver’s watch that’s more tactical than vintage then look no further. If you feel a sub- 40mm is a bit small for your manly wrist, this is a solid bet. Coming in the snappy colours du jour of green, blue or monochromatic, the 43.9mm Marin is a bold statement of intent. With its air of tank-like solidity and delicate touches of beveling you might easily be swayed. With a solid Swiss movement, ceramic bezel and a 500m depth rating, toughness is a given.

The Specs

• 43.9mm stainless steel case with 500m water resistance
• Sellita Calibre SW200-1 Elaborè automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve
• £1,020, available at TIDLÖS.

RZE Endeavour

With the RZE signature titanium case protected by UltraHex anti-scratch tech, this pilot’s watch is one tough tool. The team at RZE have detail scrutiny like few others, and the battle-ready specs include the HexCrown, with a flash of red to ensure tightening to its full 100 metre water resistance. With its textured black dial and crisp white markings inside a turbine-inspired bezel, angular lugs fits the weaponized look of one of the best value titanium pilot’s tools available.

The Specs

• 41mm Grade 2 titanium case with 100m water resistance
• Seiko NH35A automatic movement
• £378, available at RZE.

Boldr Supply Co. Pink Fighter Project Field Medic

After their success raising money for frontline medics with their initial (and incredibly handsome) pulsometer-mounted timepiece, Boldr are back to support another worthy cause – and this time, it’s pink. Joining the thousands of other charities raising awareness for cancer research, this striking pink panda matches the famous charitable pink ribbon pin, and 25% of sales will go directly to cancer research charities. Housed in a 38mm titanium case with a solid Japanese movement, there are very few reasons we can think of not to support the cause.

The Specs

• 38mm titanium case with 200m water resistance
• SII VK64 mecaquartz movement
• £257, available at Boldr Supply Co.
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Tool Watch Co. Arctic

Bold brushstrokes in the dark titanium case sets the tone for what might be a contradiction in terms, an elegant field watch aesthetic. This is nothing but a strong debut from Tool Watch Co, and the Arctic Explorer has an indefinable quality. It might seem vintage at first glance, revealing itself as a modern tool watch through its material and colour choices. Delightfully slim at 38mm, with a choice of textured meteorite dials. The deep blue of the Signature Series is particularly beguiling under its box sapphire crystal, juxtaposed on a suave saffiano leather strap. Arctic cool white indexes stand out on the dark dial, with what is an unbeatable seconds hand, replete with what looks like the serrated tip of an ice pick.

The Specs

• 38mm brushed titanium case with 200m water resistance
• Sellita SW-200 automatic movement
• $1,000 retail (approx. £725), starting at $500 for first dibs on the Kickstarter launch, more details at Tool Watch Co..

DWISS M3W

It’s been 10 years since DWISS burst onto the scene with their distinct approach to watchmaking and to celebrate the Swiss brand is launching the M3W, a welcome evolution of their award-wining M3. Rather than the displaced hours of previous models, the M3W dives deep into haute horology with a full wandering hours module, the kind of thing we’re more used to seeing in Urwerks than anything in this price bracket. In typical DWISS style, it’s not exactly shy and retiring with its chunky case, skeleton dial and that trio of revolving satellites orbiting around. Try finding a more extreme watch for the money.

The Specs

• 42mm stainless steel case with 200m water resistance
• Modified Sellita SW-200 automatic movement with 38-hour power reserve
• $1,990 (approx. £1,450), available at DWISS.

Dietrich SD-1 Skindiver

Tentatively launched earlier this year, and now ready to buy, the Dietrich Skindiver proves that we can still get surprised in the rather saturated market for vintage tool charm. From Suave Black to Pacific Blue, there is an organic and smooth touch to this taste of mid-century that just gets to me, especially in the flash of fumè blue ocean depths. The unusual intrigue of a layered sapphire dial has got familiar clues, yet the rounded non-definable shape of the hands and the quirky square-cular indexes speak of Emmanuel Dietrich’s very personal, and damn charming vision of Goldilocks-sized wristwear. Just be aware: there’s a bit of a waitlist for the blue, now.

The Specs

• 38.5mm stainless steel case with 150m water resistance
• Sellita SW-200 automatic movement
• $1,050 (approx. £765), available at Dietrich.

Isotope HydriumX “Will Return”

In a satin smooth tool case of friendly proportions, Isotope proves the simple concept often lacking in our world of incessant buzzing computerized wrists and pinging phones, and that is humour. The “Will Return” is a cheerful celebration of normality ensuing in the world, with a fully lumed dial to light up your nightly excursions or deep dives. With its vibrant red and searing ice-cool blue dial, it’s a chunky sports watch that riffs on the unusual inspiration of an American shop door sign. Google it and I’ll guarantee a wide smile. A winning blend of cheer and bullet-proof design makes for tempting, candy fresh wrist game.

The Specs

• 44mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance
• Miyota 9039 automatic movement
• £563, available at Isotope.

Spinnaker SP-5083 Boettger

Looking for an accessible diver that can dive the big leagues? As ever, Spinnaker has you covered, this time with the impressive piece of diving instrumentation that is the Boettger. It’s easier to appreciate than it is to say. Water resistance to 300m, equipped with a rather sleek integrated strap and opting for a four o’clock crown rather than the traditional three – complete with rugged crown guards of course – it has everything that made the Prospex a hero diver. What sets it apart however are its floating indexes, supported just above the hands like boats on the water so that the hands drift underneath. It turns what would be another solid diver into something unique.

The Specs

• 42mm stainless steel case with 300m water resistance
• Miyota 9015 automatic movement with 40-hour power reserve
• £500, available at Spinnaker.

The words understated and Greubel Forsey just seems misplaced within the same sentence, yet this is the impression I am left with, in a suite at the Fairmont Hotel at the Geneva Watch Days. This might have something to do with being bombarded with some of the strongest impressions of the day, in what to me is a brilliant combination of quirky and brash that is Greubel Forsey.

Understated might sound incredulous coming from me, having taken off a slim 38mm Dutch hand wound timepiece before fondling a veritable arsenal of deep dialled masterpieces, including the impossibly comfortable GMT Sport on its futuristic tank track of a bracelet, the bulbously curvaceous case for some reason feeling right at home on my wrist despite its near 16mm thickness. No, the straight comparison to the brash and rather strong presence of the dazzling blue GMT Sport might render even a rather large piece of wristwear a calming presence, but there is so much more to the Greubel Forsey Art Piece.

You will not immediately be able to tell the time unless you are an horological genius, but even this is a part of the calming notion of the Art Piece, perhaps time itself is given too much importance in our lives. In that case, only seeing a rather vague indication of the hour via a red pointer on the large upper right enigmatic circle of the dial is simply perfect, just take in the deep level of craftsmanship in what can’t even be called a dial, it is a many-tiered mechanical theatre. Unlike the 2019 Art Piece with its dazzling blue lower dial backplate, the tonality of this watch in its delicate tones of grey and silver is what calms the eye.

The minutes are shown by a pusher on the crown, which opens an aperture with the text ART Piece, while the seconds are relegated to a tiny register at 10 o’clock in what is a serious level difference between upper and lower dial. The cliff face of a step down to the soothing grey framing the dynamic sweep of a tourbillon bridge, is itself engraved with the same beguiling Greubel Forsey-designed typeface as the circular poetic mantras surrounding the upper dial with its notion that mere hours of the day are rather immaterial. Knowing that the Greubel Forsey movement has close to 500 parts you might well feel snubbed at the large 3 quarter grainage-decorated mainplate under the sapphire case back, specially knowing that within rests two mainspring barrels coupled in series

I am asking myself how the bold avant-garde of the Art Piece, with its relief micro-engraving of the poetic philosophy of the company and dramatic split dial levels, can even attempt to install a notion of quiet elegance. Yet here I am poignantly claiming the fact, backed up by the sheer monochrome elegance of the Art Piece. Overly complex yet somehow soothing under its massive domed sapphire crystal, this double axis inclined tourbillon within a 44m case with a 15.95mm height installs sense of Zen in me. It is, like the astounding Hand Made 1, a restrained Greubel Forsey creation, where we are made well aware of the complexities within, yet at the same time made to muse over time itself as a concept.

Price & Specs:

Model: Greubel Forsey Art Piece Edition Historique Titanium
Case/Dial: 44mm diameter x 15.95mm height, titanium case, dial embellished with 1,045 embossed characters
Water resistance: 30m (3 bar)
Movement: Hand-wound manufacture movement with a variation on the theme of the Double Tourbillon 30°, 475 parts
Power reserve: 72h
Functions: Hours, minutes, power reserve indicator between 4 and 6 o’clock, small seconds at 10 o’clock
Strap: Black alligator leather
Price/availability: TBC, limited edition of 20 pieces

More details at Greubel Forsey.