Back in September of last year, Baltic released the HMS 003 and Bicompax 003 as their updated and modernised dress watch and chronograph collection. However, at the time we were only able to get hands-on with the Bicompax 003 and now, just under a year later, we are finally able to review the time-only Baltic HMS 003. What’s more, we’re also giving it away to one of you as part of our regular member giveaway, details at the bottom of this article.
Taking the watch out of its case and strapping it on, one of its most distinctive features is the size. Measuring 36.5mm in diameter with a height of 13mm including the glass or just 10mm without, this is a watch that embraces vintage proportions. In fact, you could easily argue that it’s watches like the HMS 003 that first indicated we were heading into a period of neo-vintage revival – a trend that has dominated 2024 – way back at the tail end of 2023. Small dress watches with vintage flair are at their most popular since the start of the decade.
On the wrist, I like the long, sweeping lugs. They help add length to the piece and the 46mm lug-to-lug means that it has the feel of a larger piece. So it’s great if you’re used to wearing bigger watches but want to try something on the smaller side. While focussing in on the lugs, if you focus in on the caseband nestled between them on each side you’ll see two inscriptions. At the 12 o’clock side it says “Stainless Steel Self-winding Watch” and at 6 o’clock it says “HMS 003 Assembled in France”. A nod to the fact that Baltic have rapidly become one of the most exciting French brands.
Zooming in on the dial, that too is pleasingly retro in its influences, drawing on mid-20th century sector dial designs. The edition I have here and that we are giving away is the salmon version, with a rosy, copper colour across the grainy texture of the central disk and circular brushing of the hour scale. There’s also a crosshair marking that adds emphasis to the 12/3/6/9 arrangement of the Arabic numerals. I like how the display manages to balance the contrasting finishes with the overall simplicity of the design to create a dial that is composed and elegant. The leaf-shape hands adding to the overall classicism.
Unbuckling the Italian leather strap and turning the watch over reveals an exhibition caseback. Through the crystal window you can see the movement housed inside, which is the Miyota calibre 8315. It’s Miyota’s highest power reserve model with a running time of 60-hours when fully wound. That winding is achieved with the partially openworked rotor that rotates as you move the watch, revealing different details of the movement behind, such as the striped finishing.
The Baltic HMS 003 has a retail price of €360 (approx. £302 excluding taxes). However, for one Oracle Time member it will be free due to our quarterly membership giveaway. In order to to win this salmon Baltic HMS 003, you simply have to sign up to the membership here and a winner will be drawn from the pool of all existing members on October 1st. Plus you’ll gain access to host of other benefits from being a member including receiving 10 print issues of the magazine every year, invitations to exclusive events and priority access to Oracle Time collaboration wristwatches.
Price and Specs:
More details at Baltic.
