The fight for the title of thinnest mechanical watch in the world is always a competitive one. The current reigning champion is the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing at a thickness of just 1.65mm. However, the watch that inspired Chaykin to create the ThinKing was the former world’s thinnest watch from 2022, the Richard Mille RM UP-01. A sensational watch measuring 1.75mm in a limited edition of 150 pieces that sold out instantly. Now though, the RM UP-01 is up for sale at auction for the first time at Antiquorum’s sale tomorrow, November 10^th, 2024.

Specifically, the piece being sold is number 35 out of the 150 that exist and considering it’s such a strict limited edition, that provides plenty of provenance. It measures 51mm x 39mm in titanium with a brushed finish across the surface and the Ferrari logo in the lower quadrant towards 5 o’clock. Richard Mille and Ferrari’s partnership is well documented, especially when it comes to pushing boundaries in both horology and motorsport.

In terms of auction estimate, Antiquorum have given the Richard Mille RM UP-01 a range of CHF 1,000,000 – 2,000,000. That’s quite broad considering the retail price of $1,880,000 (approx. CHF 1,600,000), leaving plenty of room for a potential loss. I think that’s actually one of the more reasonable auction predictions I’ve heard in a long time due to the insane amount of money already involved and also the uncertainty in the watch market recently. It is genuinely difficult to predict how much interest a watch like this will generate and this may well set the benchmark for all future sales of the watch.

Of course, the RM UP-01 isn’t the only watch being sold this weekend. Other notable timepieces at the auction include a Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Minute Repeater Ref. 5074R-001 (est. CHF 350,000 – 450,000) and an unusual Rolex Zerographe unworn since the 1930s (est. CHF 150,000 – 250,000). But it’s not just all ultra high-end watches. We also have our eye on the cool 1981 Tudor Submariner (est. CHF 5,000 – 8,000).

More details at Antiqourum.

A good bottle of whisky is indicative of good taste. At least, that’s my excuse for consistently having a couple of single malts on the go at any one time. But nothing says good taste better than a boutique whisky. I’m not talking about the usual Glens that litter most pub top shelves. I’m talking about the more intriguing, unusual liquids that you just don’t see that often. Often, they come with a distinctive flavour profile, often they’ll come with labels that demand attention but always they’re worth trying. So, if you’re using your whisky collection as shorthand for your impeccable taste – or simply want to sample off the beaten Highland track – look no further.

Wharf Distillery Equinox, £85

A port finish whisky is always a good bet if you like smoother, sweeter drams – as I do. Seriously, I can’t get enough of the stuff, and Wharf Distillery’s twist on the theme has everything you could want. It’s not just a touch either. The whisky’s aged in much smaller casks than normal, giving the liquid an accelerated aging process, offering the kind of complexity you’d expect from a whisky many times its age. If that weren’t boutique enough, there’s also a pagan flavour to the aptly named Equinox. That being, well, the Equinox. Each barrel is filled on the Vernal Equinox and bottled on the Autumnal equinox. Whether that helps the flavour or not, I can’t rightly say. But it’s a cool thing to know about your whisky all the same.

More details at Wharf.

Woven Hemispheres, £50

Woven is all about creating unusual blends. Most mainstream whiskies are blended and they can often show off something greater than the sum of their parts. Those parts however are usually at least geographically similar; not so with Hemispheres. On the one hand you have single grain whisky from Scotland, the consistent base to most Scotch blends you’ll have sampled before. On the other however, you have a single malt from New Zealand label Thomson based on a manuka-smoked distillate. The result is equal parts smoky and floral, two very different whiskies finding harmony. Think orange, incense and a herby finish, soft and lingering. It’s fantastic – and worryingly affordable for something like this.

More details at Woven.

Samaroli Single Malt Speyside 2022 Scotch Whisky, £98

I promised fantastic labels and that was pretty much all directed at Samaroli. The Italian whisky curator took one look at some of the funky labels coming out of New World wines and thought, ‘we can do better.’ And so, they did, approaching whisky with an oenophile’s palate. The descriptions of their drams are written like poetic riddles, but the general rule of thumb is complexity and intensity. Their 2022 Speyside edition is rich and spicy, with toasted notes and plenty of florality. It’s as well balanced as you’d expect from the legendary whisky area, but dialled up to new heights. If you have this on your shelf, someone will want to try it. If you let them, they may well try to leave with the bottle.

More details at Samaroli.

House Of Hazelwood Legacy Collection The Transatlantic, £1,300

A fine whisky isn’t always about flexing your wallet as much as it is your palate, but every now and then you can do both. First, House of Hazelwood don’t do things in halves and ‘premium’ doesn’t come close. The fact that this bottle sits at £1,300 and is still their de facto entry level says a lot. But more importantly, it does what the brand does best: surprises. The Transatlantic is named such for a very good reason. If you were to blind taste test the liquid, you’d assume it was bourbon rather than Scotch. That’s not just because of the American oak, but the creaminess, the sweetness and the mouthfeel of a fantastic bourbon, underpinned by aged Scottish grain whisky. It’s miraculous. You can also win a virtual tasting session with House of Hazelwood here.

More details at House of Hazelwood.

That Boutique-Y Whisky Company North British, £89.95

Combining unusual distilleries and stories with the kind of labels that would put Beavertown to shame, That Boutique-y Whisky Company does what it says on the tin. In this instance, that tin denotes a maize-based blended grain whisky from the historical North British Distillery, aged for 35 years. It also has Blofeld and his signature cat on the label… and I’m not sure which of those two makes me want a bottle more. This is a particularly light whisky for its age, perfect for introducing people to what makes a great, mature dram. Think vanilla and tropical on the nose, with a sweet-spicy flavour and oak aplenty. If this doesn’t have non-believers lining up to sample it, nothing will.

More details at thatboutiqueywhiskycompany.com

Every year the horological glitterati flock to Watches & Wonders, Geneva and the world’s most important watch show. It’s the watch fair where the great and the good of the industry gather to announce their yearly slate of new releases and latest horological innovations. Well, now you can be among them as Panerai is giving one Oracle Time reader a pair of tickets to attend Watches & Wonders 2025. 

Panerai will welcome you and host you on their stand, but you’ll also be attending on one of the press days – usually reserved for serious insiders like ourselves. That means complimentary (and exceptional) food and drink all day and the chance to visit the expansive array of watchmakers showing off their upcoming 2025 line-ups. We’re talking horological royalty all the way to astonishing independents.

The winner of the Panerai Watches & Wonders tickets will receive two Day access passes to the show, a guided tour of the Panerai booth including a touch and feel session with the brand’s latest timepieces, return flights from the UK to Geneva and transport from the airport in Geneva to the exhibition venue. An action packed day that will make you feel like a true jet-setter (a great excuse to break out your GMT wristwatch for that change in time zone).  

So, if you’ve ever wanted to experience how the other half of the watch industry live, this is your opportunity. All you need to do is enter your details below for your chance to win. Also please read the terms and conditions as this prize is only available to UK residents. Good luck!

TitleRequired* Select Mr. Ms. Mrs. Dr. Prof.

First NameRequired*

Last NameRequired*

EmailA valid email is required*

Date of BirthPlease select a valid date of birth

Day Month January February March April May June July August September October November December Year

Hobbies (Choose two)Both fields are required*

Select a hobby Art Travel Car Collector Fashion Sports Select a hobby Art Travel Car Collector Fashion Sports

Enter Now

By entering this prize draw, you agree that you would like to receive to receive marketing information from Oracle Time and Panerai about their products or services, and consent to Oracle Time sharing your personal data with Panerai for this purpose.
Oracle Time and Panerai may send you this information using e-mail, text, telephone or post, and may also use your information to deliver personalised messages or advertising on social media or other digital platforms. You can ask Oracle Time and/or Panerai to stop marketing at any time.
For further information about how Oracle Time and Panerai use your personal information, please see Oracle Time’s Privacy Policy and Panerai’s Privacy Policy. By entering you agree to Oracle Time's Terms and Conditions.

The tasting menu is a staple of fine dining in London. Similar in concept to Japan’s Omakase, it puts the chef in full control of your culinary journey. They shape the number of courses and dishes to bring out the strongest elements of the ingredients involved. And those ingredients are often seasonal and locally sourced for an added layer of sustainability. Here’s a look at some of London’s best tasting menu restaurants you should try.

KOL

KOL’s tasting menu is inspired by Mexican cuisine and rotates to suit seasonal British ingredients. A sample menu includes girasol, pitaya, langoustine tacos, huarache, chimole, tetela, trout zacahuil, lamb mole, lamb barbacoa, nieve sorbet, tamal, and buñuelos. Like Ikoyi, it also makes an appearance on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, at an incredible 17th position. It’s the project of chef Santiago Lastra, who you can meet during the chef’s table experience with a private dining room for up to 20 guests.

Where: 9 Seymour Street, Marylebone, W1H 7BA
Price: £230
Bookings: kolrestaurant.com

IKOYI

Founded in 2017, Ikoyi quickly rose to notoriety for its blend of fine dining, traditional African flavours, and British seasonal ingredients. In 2024 it came 42nd on the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, published by a panel of 1,080 culinary experts. On top of that, it’s one of only 36 UK restaurants to achieve two Michelin star status or higher. The man behind the menu is chef Jeremy Chan known for his precision and balance of taste and presentation.

Where: 180 Strand, Temple, WC2R 1EA
Price: £350
Bookings: ikoyilondon.com

Core By Clare Smyth

There are 36 restaurants in the UK with two Michelin stars or higher, or more specifically there are 27 two stars and just nine three stars. Core by Clare Smyth is not only one of the elite three- star restaurants, it’s also the first British restaurant run by a woman to achieve this status. Clare Smyth’s service to hospitality resulted in her being awarded an MBE in 2013. A sample seasonal menu includes Portland crab, Norfolk turnip, Cornish sea bass, Highland wagyu with Porthilly oysters, and a desert inspired by the Bakewell tart.

Where: 92 Kensington Park Road, Kensington, W11 2PN
Price: £245
Bookings: corebyclaresmyth.com

A.Wong

Two Michelin star restaurant, A. Wong is the project of Andrew Wong, who took over from his parents in 2012. They have a range of menu options, but our focus here is the The Collections of China tasting menu, which presents a wide range of traditional and contemporary Chinese cuisine produced from fine British ingredients. The multi- course meal is enjoyed over three hours and features dishes such as Isle of Mull seared scallop and honey glazed Iberico char siu, Shanghai steamed dumplings, and a fish dish evocatively titled ‘Why we don’t need to eat Shark’s fin soup’.

Where: 70 Wilton Road, Pimlico, SW1V 1DE
Price: £200
Bookings: awong.co.uk

The Clove Club

Set in the impressive surroundings of Shoreditch Town Hall, The Clove Club offers a pared back look at the essentials of modern cuisine. Dishes include Orkney scallops, blue shell lobster, suckling pig leg, Anjou pigeon, and sorbet. It’s as quintessential as it’s possible to get with fine British tasting menus; seasonal and superb. The chef patron of The Clove Club is Isaac McHale, a Scottish chef born in Orkney, hence his close connection to Scottish ingredients.

Where: Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old Street, Shoreditch, EC1V 9LT
Price: £225
Bookings: thecloveclub.com

Earlier in the year rumours began flying that Rolex would be stepping down from its position as the lead watch and official timing sponsor of the Formula 1 circuit. At the time people immediately began to speculate that Tag Heuer would be stepping up to fill the void and now it has been confirmed that those rumours are true. Although alongside Tag Heuer, the watchmaker’s parent company LVMH is also stepping into the Formula 1 realm as well.

The deal between F1 and LVMH kicks in from 2025 and consists of a 10-year global partnership. The precise details of the partnership are sparse on the ground but it has been confirmed that Tag Heuer, Louis Vuitton and Moët Hennessey will all have a role.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Kith

If I had to guess: Tag Heuer will become the timing partner, Moët Hennessey will provide the podium champagne and Louis Vuitton will likely be in charge of trophy presentation like they’ve done in other sports (and eSports). It’s not that surprising that this is happening considering that when Frédéric Arnault was CEO at Tag Heuer he made a big deal of F1 being a huge part of their plans for growth – they even have a collection called the Formula 1 that includes high profile collaborations with the likes of Mario and Kith. And now that he’s CEO of LVMH Watches, he can help to make that a reality.

Stefano Domenicali, President & CEO of Formula 1, Bernard Arnault, Chairman & CEO of LVMH Group, Greg Maffei, President & CEO of Liberty Media, Frédéric Arnault, CEO of LVMH Watches.

Regarding the partnership Frédéric said, “In recent years, Formula 1 has truly become one of the most desirable sports in the world. It’s a vibrant discipline that echoes a number of values that are very important to us, such as innovation, team spirit and performance. For many years, several of our Maisons have also chosen to invest in Formula 1, whether to create unique experiences or for moments of celebration. With our Maisons and the expertise of our Group, we want to further grow this experiential dimension that Formula 1 provides all over the world. We are only at the very beginning of this partnership, but the seasons that await us promise to be extraordinary.”

More details at LVMH and Tag Heuer.

 

 

 

 

 

View this post on Instagram

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A post shared by LVMH (@lvmh)

What was the last watch you bought?

A Breitling Navitimer Chronograph limited edition with a light blue dial. I love it as it’s the same colour as the sky.

Do you collect anything outside of watches?

Aviation memorabilia as it reminds me of the pioneering feats that have marked history. It was an incredible time when people were fascinated by innovation. Today, many take everything for granted.

What’s at the top of your wishlist?

I wish that our world could become cleaner and more efficient in its use of energy and resources. For this, we need the participation of every corporate and individual, but nothing will happen without the intervention of governments. As long as it is legal to pollute, people will continue to pollute without worry. Therefore, politicians have to modernize our legal frameworks in order to create a need to use modern and efficient solutions.

Bertrand Piccard atthe Solar Impulse Foundation

What is a recent find or discovery?

Every week, my Solar Impulse Foundation discovers innovators who have developed new solutions that can protect the environment or fight climate change in an economically profitable way. Reconciling the ecology with the economy. There’s always a very healthy suspense in my team: what’s the next one we’ll find?

What inspires you?

The legacy that I have received from my father and grandfather to live like an explorer with the pioneering spirit inspires me to make my dreams come true far beyond conventional limitations and the status quo. This is what I want to share with my children, and all those of their age, for the search for a better quality of life for all. My intention is to lead disruptive actions achieving what many consider impossible.

What is a book, podcast, or album that changed the way you think?

Antoine de Saint-Exupery, who combines so well the vital quest for spirituality with the experience of flying. And Paulo Coelho, with this beautiful quote: “if you think that adventure is dangerous, try routine, it is deadly!” I really think that the worst in life is not to take risks, because finally you learn to manage the risks. The worst thing is to sleep in the routine, certitudes and habits.

Breitling Orbiter 3

Who is a celebrity that you admire?

Many pioneers have influenced my life since I met several of them when I was a child, like Edmund Hillary, Neil Armstrong, Charles Lindbergh, Thor Heyerdahl, Jacques Mayol, Alain Bombard, Wernher Von Braun, Scott Carpenter, and John Glenn. They have all shaped my dreams and aspirations. But my favorite is Henry Dunant, the initiator of the International Red Cross Committee in the 19th century. I think no one else has alleviated the suffering of so many people in the world.

What is your ideal long weekend?

Going wild snow skiing with friends or kite surfing with my family

Bertrand Piccard in the Breitling Orbiter 3

What would we always find in your fridge?

Fresh vegetables I grow in my garden. It’s another of my favourite hobbies. I love to see how a little seed becomes an edible plant. It’s a miracle of nature.

What is a rule or mantra that you live by?

Exploration is a state of mind where you get rid of old and useless beliefs that keep you a prisoner of old ways of thinking, where you play with the doubts and the questions to stimulate your performance and your creativity. In that sense, I live with a compass in my heart, indicating, not the north, but everything that has not been done yet.

Bertrand Piccard and Brian Jones

What does the year ahead look like for you?

Besides leading the Solar Impulse Foundation, I’ve launched the Climate Impulse project, the first zero emission non-stop flight around-the-world with a green hydrogen-powered airplane. At a time when so many people think that decarbonisation of the aviation sector is impossible, I want to show that it’s not only possible, but exciting. You might say that I love flying around the world, and I do, because it’s the ultimate flight. You can’t do more, and you can’t do better. If you want to prove the maturity of a new clean and sustainable technology, I think this is the best way to do it. So that’s what I’m working on.

More details at Bertand Piccard.

Traveling the world on a journey of culinary exploration is likely on the majority of our bucket lists – especially in remote and beautiful locales. Striking out into the desert, up a mountain, or along a rugged coastline to discover exquisite food and fine dining that expresses the best of local cuisine is an unfettered joy. And while you’ll have to go out of your way to visit some of these restaurants, their remote nature means they often have accommodation on site or nearby, so why not make a whole trip of it and explore the area thoroughly knowing that your food needs are well taken care of.

The Rock – Zanzibar, Tanzania

What must be one of the most photogenic dining spots in the entire world, The Rock is located on the island of Zanzibar off the coast of Tanzania. Well, more specifically the former fishermen’s outpost is located on a small rocky outcrop off the coast of Zanzibar that’s only accessible at low tide or via boat. As you’d expect, the menu consists of fish caught by local fishermen. Definitely worth checking out the catch of the day.

Bookings: therockrestaurantzanzibar.com

La Mare aux Oiseaux – Brière Marshes, France

When we think of French fine dining, we typically conjure images of Provence or Parisian cafes, but La Mare aux Oiseaux bucks the trend. It’s based in the marshes of Brière on the west coast, the largest marshlands in France, full of waterways and flooded meadows. An earthy, peaty haven of wildlife and wetland birds, which is where the establishment gets its name. The restaurant is run by Michelin star chef Éric Guérin and dishes feature local fish, as well as French classics like frogs and black garlic.

Bookings: mareauxoiseaux.fr

Three Camel Lodge – Gobi Desert, Mongolia

Taking the degree of remoteness to the next level is Three Camel Lodge, which is quite literally in the middle of the Gobi Desert. The lodge offers an opportunity to experience the storied history of local nomadic peoples and their cultures with all of the gers and furniture produced by authentic Mongolian artisans. The restaurant, called Bulagtai, is an amazing room traditionally appointed with a menu that is equally traditional with a contemporary spin. Try dishes such as buuz, a meat or vegetable dumpling, and tsuivan which is a noodle dish.

Bookings: threecamellodge.com

Loch Bay – Isle of Skye, Scotland

While I couldn’t in good faith call any restaurant in England remote, I think the Scottish islands and highlands definitely count with their sweeping vistas and challenging terrain. Loch Bay is a small Michelin star restaurant located in Stein on one of the Isle of Skye’s furthest peninsulas. It operates a £145 tasting menu known as Skye Fruits de Mer, which should tell you everything you need to know about the food on offer. Plus, any excuse to visit Skye is welcome because it is one of the most magical places in the UK.

Bookings: lochbay-restaurant.co.uk

Aescher Gasthaus Am Berg – Alps, Switzerland

We wouldn’t be a wristwatch publication without featuring at least one remote Swiss restaurant in this article. The Aescher Gasthaus Am Berg, or Aescher Guesthouse on the Mountain, is exactly what it sounds like – a fabulous Alpine guesthouse tucked away into a cliffside near a series of caves. In fact, traversing through the caves is one of the recommended ways of reaching the spot. This is a back to basics hiking and mountaineering establishment. You’ll find no wi-fi here, but stunning views and hearty, traditional Swiss food and drink more than make it worth a visit.

Bookings: aescher.ch

Saffire Freycinet – Tasmania, Australia

Just look at Tasmania on a map and you’ll understand how truly wild and remote it is. As much as 49% of the island and its waters are protected habitats and national parks. In fact, our next restaurant at Saffire Freycinet can be found in one of those national parks on the east coast of the island. The region’s Mediterranean-like environment makes it a premium wine area and the oysters of Great Oyster Bay are, well, great. There is a choice of dining locations such as the 1950s decorated Lounge or the internationally renowned Palate.

Bookings: saffire-freycinet.com.au

Mil – Urubamba Valley, Peru

Peru is a fascinating country full of ancient ruins and breathtaking landscapes. Mil is a restaurant closely associated with one specific ruin as it’s located only a few metres from the Moray Archaeological Site. The restaurant offers a handful of experiences with the baseline being their $360 tasting menu but if you’re going all that way, you may as well go the full distance and experience the full Mil Immersion. This includes a tour of the Moray site, an exploration of local Andean farms, a botanical walk looking at plants and wildlife, visiting local artists and artisans, and all wrapped up with an eight-course meal at the end.

Bookings: milcentro.pe

A lot of people have written about the history of Rolex. Whether that be histories of the brand in general or specific models like the Rolex Explorer. However, Rolex themselves have rarely waded into the discourse with anything so official as a book, until now. They’ve just announced the release of Oyster Perpetual Submariner – The Watch that Unlocked the Deep, the first ever authorised history of the Rolex Submariner and Rolex’s first book to boot.

The book is written by acclaimed author Nicholas Foulkes, who has written books across the watch industry for the likes of Patek Philippe and beyond. It promises 252 pages with new and original photography alongside historical images charting the story of what is arguably the most iconic watch ever produced. From innovations and prototypes to the pioneers who wore them. It will be available in English and French.

Oyster Perpetual Submariner – The Watch that Unlocked the Deep will be available for general sale in hardback starting from October 1^st online. There will also be a limited edition of silk-bound copies available for pre-order between September 16 – 19 via the publisher’s website, WallpaperSTORE*.

Rolex has promised that this is just the first in a series of books looking at the histories of their iconic collections. Marking a new period of openness and communication from what has typically been a company that keeps their cards close to their chest. The standard edition is priced at £89 with the limited edition at £100.

More details at WallpaperSTORE*.

These days Hublot is a byword for bold, unapologetic watchmaking – just look at the awesome insanity of the MP-10 Tourbillon. However, every so often they present a watch that remembers it is possible to understated and dare I say even suave. The most recent example of which would be the Hublot Classic Fusion Centenary – WOSG Exclusive watch produced for the Watches of Switzerland 100^th Anniversary.

It’s based on the pared back edition of the Classic Fusion with a polished black lacquer dial without any hour markers or time indicators. Instead the central hour, minute and seconds hands float above an inky void dressed only with the Hublot logo and a date window at 3 o’clock. It reminds me of a shiny interpretation of the Vanta and Musuo black dials seen from brands like H. Moser and Boldr, which also have the black dial without adornment look.

What makes the Centenary edition stand out from the core collection of the Classic Fusion is the case. It measures 42mm in diameter in titanium with a frosted carbon fibre bezel. It’s the first time the Classic Fusion has been dressed with a bezel in this material, fixed to the rest of the watch with six visible H-screws. The material has a cool dappled pattern, a product of the forged carbon process which creates chaotic and random layers, in contrast to carbon fibre or TPT where the layers are uniform.

The visual impression almost reminds me of urban camouflage, which itself feels like motif right up Hublot’s alley. It works really well on the Classic Fusion because it blends the more refined aspects of the design with that typical boldness expected of the brand in a well-balanced manner.

Beneath the surface is the HUB1110 automatic movement with 42-hour power reserve. The Hublot Classic Fusion Centenary – WOSG Exclusive is priced at £10,300 in a limited edition of 50 pieces. It’s also exclusive to Watches of Switzerland as the two brands come together to share their connection to the watch industry. Although Hublot is the much younger and more bombastic sibling of the two.

More details at Watches of Switzerland.

Grand Seiko continue to find new aspects of nature to inspire their textured dials. Although I imagine there is plenty to be inspired by when Japanese culture respects 72 micro seasons each year, fleeting moments of time such as the “hiding of the cherry blossom”. While it’s not linked to a specific micro season, the latest Grand Seiko is still connected to an ephemeral phenomenon in nature, the icefall. As such, the new watch is called the ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat.

Despite the name, an icefall is not a waterfall that has become frozen during the winter months, although you could probably still use that term if you wanted. The geological definition of an icefall is a rapidly moving portion of a glacier that creates a high quantity of crevasses in its surface. This is a fairly standard occurrence on the flanks of Mount Iwate near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi studio.

It finds itself expressed on the dial of the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat via a vertical striation pattern that echoes the crevassed surface of the glacier as it moves in a linear direction down the valley. Naturally it’s presented in ice blue because, well, that’s the colour of ice. Personally, I think the texture is a little bit too regular for a glacier’s surface and it is actually a better representation of a frozen waterfall. But as I mentioned, it kind of represents both of these adjacent concepts in a colloquial way, so ultimately it works really well.

The dial is held in a 37mm steel case with a thickness of 13.3mm, which is totally in keeping with the prevailing interest in vintage proportions. It also features Grand Seiko’s classic array of finishing including Zaratsu polishing and brushing. The shape is based on the heritage collection with sweeping lines from lug to lug and gentler facets than some of the more extreme GS designs.

Powering the Grand Seiko ‘Icefall’ Hi-Beat is, as you may have been able to predict, a hi-beat movement. Specifically, it’s the 9S85, which has a power reserve of 55-hours and an accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day. It operates at a bph of 36,000, which is equivalent to 5 Hz. It’s visible though the sapphire exhibition caseback.

It’s priced at £5,950, which is a pretty standard price for Grand Seiko these days. It goes without saying that the dial is lovely and the movement has impressive specs. Are Grand Seiko one of the best value for money luxury watch brands?

More details at Grand Seiko Boutique.

Back in the spring of 2024 Panerai launched (technically relaunched) the Luminor Deici Giorni, a stylish GMT watch with a 10-day power reserve. A 10-day power reserve is a very impressive feat requiring not one, not two but three spring barrels. For context, most wristwatches only have one. A few months later at the end of summer Panerai have released a follow up watch featuring the same movement and complications in a new case with fresh colours, the Panerai Luminor Dieci Giorni GMT Ceramica.

Starting with the 44mm case, you may be able to guess from the name Ceramica that it’s made from ceramic, a high-tech, extremely hardwearing and virtually scratchproof material created through a complex firing process. It’s presented here in black, which is one of the most common colours of ceramic because it suits the matte finish of the material as well as being one of the easier to produce, since creating an even colour across a ceramic watch is unbelievably difficult.

The colour gives the watch a dark, stealthy appearance that wouldn’t look out of place on a military dive watch, which is of course where Panerai got their start in life, supplying the Italian navy. The same is true of the olive green sandwich dial, which is equally serious a militaristic save for the sunray brush finishing that catches the light nicely. The display features central hours, seconds and 12-hour GMT hand, with small seconds and day/night indicator on a subdial at 9 o’clock, a linear power reserve indicator at 6 and a date window at 3.

The movement providing the titular Dieci Giorni 10-day power reserve is the P.2003, which was the first calibre Panerai developed in their Neuchatel manufacture. It’s visible though the exhibition caseback. As mentioned, it has three spring barrels as well as a free-sprung balance. It’s a very impressive movement that in combination with the upgraded ceramic case and green dial leads to a price of £16,800, which feels like an appropriate increase from the £13,200 of the steel edition.

More details at Panerai.

While I tend to think of Japanese horology in terms of brands like Grand Seiko and Hajime Asaoka that bring high end mechanics and traditional techniques to watchmaking, it’s undeniable that the accessible brands from Japan are also killing it. Orient’s Bambino is fantastic for the price and Citizen is a true power house with their diverse and extensive range of watches. Citizen is extra relevant right now because it’s the 100^th anniversary of the first ever Citizen branded watch, an event they are celebrating with the launch of the Series 8 880 Limited Edition.

Off the bat, this is a really fun watch. It has an integrated bracelet design with the sporty look of a watch inspired by the 1970s. What gives it a unique character is the coloured plating on top of the 41mm steel case, which gives it a bi-colour appearance in anthracite grey and deep blue. The same colouration is used across the links of the steel bracelet, creating a cohesive look for the piece.

The dark tones of the case mirror the colours of the bi-directional rotating GMT bezel, which is split into blue and black day/night sections. Interestingly the 24-hour scale on the bezel has a 24 numeral, whereas it’s very common for a rotating scale to have a lumed dot or other marker in that position so that the bezel can be set even in low light conditions. I actually prefer the look of the complete numerical scale though as it has a hint of that Rolex Explorer II vibe while still having the additional practicality that comes from a rotation.

Where the 100^th Anniversary Series 8 880 Limited Edition really comes into its own is the dial. It has a cool undulating colour gradient that seems to shift and change across the span of the display rather than having a consistent linear change or fumé design as we normally see. This has been achieved by using mother-of-pearl tinted blue. Once you know that, it almost feels like you can see the iridescence of the material through the blue. It’s also just the right amount of intensity to pair well with the colours of the case.

As part of the 880 Mechanical series, it’s powered by an automatic movement. Specifically, the Cal. 9054 with 50-hour power reserve, an accuracy of +20/-10 seconds per day and a frequency of 4 Hz. It’s a solid enough movement of the calibre (pardon the pun) you’d expect to see from Citizen. You can view it through the exhibition caseback too. In terms of functions, it’s equipped with hours, minutes, seconds, date and a true GMT function. A true GMT allows you to adjust the hour hand by intervals of one hour without affecting the GMT hand.

I really like the use of colour on the the Citizen Series 8 880 Limited Edition because it feels special enough to warrant being a limited edition while also not being so extravagant that the watch loses its practical, almost tool watch-esque appeal. I get the same feeling from the £1,495 price tag, which is at the top end of what is generally considered daily beater/tool watch territory. It’s also limited to 2,200 pieces globally making it fairly exclusive compared to Citizen’s standard models.

More details at Citizen.

At Oracle Time we like to focus on mechanical wristwatches 99% of the time because based on feedback from you, our readers, those are the watches you’re more interested in learning about. However, every now and then a quartz watch will come along that’s worth talking about such as the ubiquitous MoonSwatch or this, the new Citizen Satellite Wave X, a watch that has the honour of being the fastest GPS satellite watch ever produced.

Firstly, what is a GPS Satellite watch? Well, as the name suggests, the watch is in communication with a network of satellites in order to track its global position. This allows it to automatically adjust itself to the correct time based on its position on Earth, accounting for changes of time zone and all but eliminating deviation, resulting in exceptional accuracy. Even without signal reception the Satellite Wave X has an accuracy +/- 5 seconds per month and that only improves when it does have a signal.

Specifically, this watch uses the Satellite Wave GPS, which receives signals from satellites in just 3 seconds, making it the fastest in the world. Essentially this functions as another form of regulation and having smaller intervals, such as 3 seconds, improves accuracy on top of the accuracy that comes from being a GPS watch in the first place. In short, you can trust that the Citizen Satellite Wave X is accurate no matter where on the planet you are.

Aesthetically, Citizen have doubled down on the satellite theme. The chunky 45.4mm super titanium case is made from a single piece and has a highly facetted shape. The sharp angles and triangular facets that lead into the integrated bracelet are representative of the panels of a satellite. This is also true of the unique, stepped ring around the inner portion of the dial, which has the look of some space age device you might expect to see attached to the James Webb telescope.

The Citizen Satellite Wave X builds on this by having an inkjet print of stars across its display, giving the appearance of aventurine glass at a more accessible price. It’s also available with either a black or blue backdrop. It looks great and, in my opinion, helps what would otherwise be quite an overwhelming and complex dial to feel cohesive. It almost makes the various complications and scales such as the world timer, date window and days/power reserve/light level indicator fade into the white noise of the stars. That’s all a slightly over the top way of saying that it’s much more stylish and elegant than you would expect.

Powering the watch is the Cal. F150, which is a reference to the original Wave Satellite F100 from 2014. In fact, the name Wave Satellite X is not arbitrary as the X is a Roman numeral denoting the 10^th anniversary of the F100 model. The Cal. F150 is an EcoDrive movement, which means that it’s powered by light, which is why one of the functions is a light level indicator so you can check if it’s charging. Although similarly to how the watch remains accurate even without a signal, the EcoDrive movement has a battery life of 7-years at full charge even if it never sees light again (in power saving mode).

Yes, this watch is quartz but it is to a quartz Ronda three-hander what a Vacheron Constantin is to a Sellita, meaning that the price of £1,395 is fully justified. Just because we don’t always look at quartz watches doesn’t mean there isn’t an electric equivalent to haute horology and this is it.

More details at Citizen.

Image credit: @rafaelnadal

The Paris Olympics, which came to a close last night, has been a fantastic festival of sporting achievement and amazing storylines that have seen the world glued to their screens or attending the stadiums in person. As always, while we were rapt as the likes of Noah Lyles and Keely Hodgkinson proved their supremacy, we also had one eye on the wrists of the great and good in attendance to spot their wristwatches. So here are the epic wristwatch moments from the Paris Olympics 2024.

Athletics

Noah Lyles – Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon

Image credit: @nojo18

In one of the fastest and closest 100m races in recent history, Noah Lyles proved himself the fastest. During the race he wore the Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon featuring Apollo 8, making us wonder if he has rockets in his heels as well as on his wrist.

Keely Hodgkinson – Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”

Image credit: @britishathletics

One of the biggest success stories of the Athletics for team GB, Keely Hodgkinson ran to gold in the 800m. On her wrist was the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”, weighing just 55g.

Yaroslava Mahuchikh – Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”

Image credit: @europeanathletics

If Omega’s dominance at the athletics were ever in doubt, Yaroslava Mahuchikh the high jump world record holder was also wearing the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light”, evidently a popular timepiece among Omega’s sporting ambassadors.

Armand Duplantis – Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” Special Edition

Image credit: @omegawatches

While Omega debuted an Armand Duplantis special edition ahead of the games, he showed up to the Pole Vault final with a completely different watch. Winning the gold and a world record wearing a Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “Ultra Light” Special Edition in Swedish colours.

Tennis 

Novak Djokovic – Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic

Image credit: @djokernole

After a few years searching for a watch partnership, Novak Djokovic eventually found one in Hublot. He was wearing the Hublot Big Bang Meca-10 Ceramic as he celebrated his gold medal, the final major trophy that had so far eluded him in his career.

Rafael Nadal – Richard Mille RM27-05 Flying Tourbillon

Image credit: @rafaelnadal

While Rafa’s performance on the courts of Roland Garros didn’t quite go to plan, he was resplendent in his role in the opening ceremony. As one of the most famous Richard Mille ambassadors, he wore the RM27-05 Flying Tourbillon throughout the event,

Carlos Alcaraz Garcia – Rolex Day-Date 40

Image credit: @carlitosalcarazz

The most recent Wimbledon Champion could only achieve silver at Paris 2024, but still celebrated the achievement with a Rolex Day-Date 40 in yellow gold on the podium – he probably wishes his medal was the same colour.

Skateboarding

Sky Brown – Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

Image credit: @skybrown

As a Tag Heuer ambassador, Sky Brown, the 16-year-old skater for Team GB, has worn her Tag Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph on several occasions now. And now it has accompanied her on her journey to back-to-back Olympic bronze medals.

Andy MacDonald –A Stealthy Street Cool Sports Watch

Image credit: @skateboardgb

At 51, Andy MacDonald was the oldest competitor in the skating representing GB, a true legend of skating. Hel us identify his watch by leave a comment at the bottom of this article. It’s a street cool timepiece with a black case and white Arabic numerals in the style of a pilot’s watch. It reminds me of the Seiko 5 Sports Stealth, IWC Pilot’s Watch Top Gun or Zenith Pilot but unfortunately the colours and logos don’t match.

Tony Hawk – Waldhoff Capital Carbon Silver

Image credit: @tonyhawk

Tony Hawk is well known for wearing the Waldhoff Capital Carbon Silver. He was attending the skating as a spectator to see his long time friend Andy MacDonald compete, as well as filming the introduction to the sport short video for the Paris games.

Fencing

Miles Chamley-Watson – Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph

Image credit: @fencer

While the name of American fencer Miles Chamley-Watson might not be well known in the UK, the fact that he wore a Richard Mille RM 65-01 Automatic Split-Seconds Chronograph worth approximately £300,000 while swinging a sword is frankly insane.

Golf

Tommy Fleetwood – Tag Heuer Connected

Image credit: @officialtommyfleetwood

Our friend here at OT magazine stuck to his preferred timepiece, the TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition. Its additional digital features provide useful information for his games.

Spectating

Daniel Craig – Unreleased Seamaster 300m with No-Date

Image credit: Omega Watches

Daniel Craig was seen in attendance of several events wearing an unreleased Omega Seamaster Dive 300m with a dateless design. Rumours online suggest it may have a ceramic bezel but Omega have announced detail will be released in due course.

As your collection grows, finding a safe way to store your watches becomes more and more important, whether it’s a handful of watches or a dozen or more. Not least because a good storage solution will keep them all in the same place so you don’t lose them. Watch winders make sense for perpetual calendars, watch rolls work if you plan to travel a lot but for most of us a classic watch box is probably the best option. Naturally, there as many styles of watch box as there are watches, however in the spirit of focussing on classic designs, let’s look at 5 stylish wooden watch boxes for growing collections.

Tawbury Grove

The Tawbury Grove has a more rustic feel to its design thanks to the matte finish of its dark brown Kassod wood exterior. Kassod is a tree from southern Asia with a distinct textured grain giving the piece a tactile feel. The Grove also doubles up as a watch display case with its transparent lid allowing you to view the six watches stored inside even while closed. Protecting the watches from scratches is the microsuede lined interior and soft pillows.

Capacity: 6 watches
Dimensions: 10.5cm (H) x 20.5cm (W) x 20.5cm (D)
Price: $149 (approx. £120)

Shop Now

Heisse & Söhne Botega 8

The Heisse & Söhne Botega 8 is available in a choice of three finishes: rosewood, root wood or black lacquer. The rosewood in particular has a gorgeous colour that suits the clean lines of its rectangular design. Flat metallic panels provide an interesting visual accent that makes the box stand out from its competitors. Inside is a lovely cream interior in velour featuring generously sized cushions with widths of 65mm, making them well suited to large watches.

Capacity: 8 watches
Dimensions: 9cm (H), 31cm (W), 21cm (D)
Price: €219.90 (approx. £190)

Shop Now

BezelHold The Dome

Putting subtlety and class above all else, The Dome from BezelHold is a sleek container for eight watches with a solid wooden exterior in mahogany. It gets its name from the gentle arch of its lid, which is present in the same dark wood as the rest of the case. The interior is velvet lined with eight belted cushions suitable a wide range of watch sizes and styles. The dark appearance and clean lines make it the perfect ornament for a dressing room or even out on display such as on a bookcase.

Capacity: 8 watches
Dimensions: 9cm (H) x 29.5cm (W) x 24cm (D)
Price: £303

Shop Now

Rapport Heritage Ten

On the side of serious collector boxes, the Rapport Heritage Ten is capable of storing up to 10 watches simultaneously. It’s Rapport’s best selling watch box, which is saying something because Rapport are one of the names that always comes up when discussing watch storage. It’s made from macassar wood, which gives it a distinct light and dark brown striated appearance, finished with nine layers of lacquer. Adding to the luxurious feel of the box are the gold-plated hinges and lock with key. Inside is a suede lining and 10 adjustable watch cushions.

Capacity: 10 watches
Dimensions: 9cm (H) x 36cm (W) x 24cm (D)
Price: £840

Shop Now

Agresti Il Mio Tempo Ebano

At the super-luxe end of the watch box market you find multi-draw chests like the Agresti Il Mio Tempo Ebano. Constructed as it is from polished ebony, you can imagine that the price makes it far more exclusive than the other boxes featured in this article. However, in return for the greater investment you also receive storage for 28 watches in a chest designed following Tuscan traditions with an Italian leather interior. A dual lock system keeps your collection safe while a transparent top allows it to serve as a display case too.

Capacity: 28 watches
Dimensions: 26.5 (H) x 37.5 (W) x 24.5 (D) cm
Price: Price on request (approx. £2,275 from authorised dealers)

Shop Now

Ricardo Guadelupe is the new Honorary President of Hublot

It is the season for business shake-ups it would appear. Following news of Richemont reshuffling their leadership with Nicholas Bos stepping into the revived role of CEO in May, now LVMH watches division have also announced a changing of the guard. Richemont and LVMH are two of the largest luxury brand management groups in the world and while these new appointments likely won’t have an immediate impact on the watches on your wrist, they will inevitably affect the long term direction of the brands.

Focussing on the LVMH appointments, the instigating factor can be traced to Hublot. After 20 years at the top of the company as managing director and then CEO, Ricardo Guadelupe has decided to step back from operational management. Instead he will take up the role of Honorary President of Hublot. Of course, a power vacuum must be filled, which leads into the next appointment.

Julien Tornare is appointed the new CEO of Hublot

Julien Tornare will replace Ricardo as CEO of Hublot. Tornare is currently the CEO of Tag Heuer and will be moving on after holding the position for only 6-months at the sporty brand. Evidently he is the current favoured son of LVMH, seeing him move up the ladder from Zenith to Tag to Hublot in such rapid succession.

Antoine Pin is appointed the new CEO of Tag Heuer

Replacing Tornare as CEO at Tag Heuer will be Antoine Pin, the managing director of Bulgari. At first it seems like an odd appointment to me as Bulgari and Tag Heuer have very different branding and styles. However, when you think about the recent celebration of the sporty Bulgari Aluminium there is actually a closer relationship between Tag Heuer and Bulgari than is immediately apparent.

These changes of leadership take effect from September 1, 2024, meaning there is still a few months until they are implemented. It will be interesting to see how these appointments affect their brands, especially during a period where the watch industry appears to be slowing down after the peak of 2020-2022.

More details at Tag Heuer.

Summer isn’t just about rising temperatures, it’s also events season, with everything from regattas and sports to parties requiring you to be turned out appropriately. That throws a bit of a spanner in the works as, despite being the most breathable, comfortable shoes for the season, nobody wants to be that one guy in sandals at an elegant garden party. Fortunately, there are plenty of shoemakers out there creating summer-ready silhouettes that aren’t just comfortable, they’re stylish enough to build your entire smart-casual wardrobe around. Here are some of our favourites.

Mryqvist Brännö II Moss Green, £199

Sometimes less is more – particularly in the heat – and the BRÄNNÖ from Swedish shoemaker Myrqvist is about as minimal as a summer loafer gets. It’s not just the unfussed, smoothly curvaceous silhouette of the Italian suede; it’s also unlined for a more breathable, comfortable fit. The sole is clean white rubber with a slightly raised heel, with a repeating M pattern doubling as extra grip for when those long summer days don’t actually last that long. The shoe’s available in a few colours but for our money the moss green offers a fresh alternative to the usual summer tans and pastels.

Available at Myrqvist.

Edward Green Montpellier Unlined, £1,120

If you’re after a serious investment piece you can do a lot worse than the perennially elegant saddle loafer – and a good deal worse than the superb examples from Jermyn Street icon Edward Green. Their latest take on the otherwise classical Montpellier is unlined for a lighter profile, but more importantly it makes the shoe slightly less stifling, perfect for the kind of warmer weather you’d want to bring the suede out in. Here that suede is in a raw umber, a nutty tan that’s both light and classically inclined. Pair with a light linen blazer for an elegant, warm weather look perfect for the Italian coastline.

Available at Edward Green.

Cheaney Drake Boat Shoe, £260

There are few summer styles more versatile than the boat shoe and, given that’s the very style that Cheaney’s best known for, it would be remiss not to include the historic British brand. Treading the line between formal and casual with its nautical combination of navy blue suede upper and pristine white rubber soles, the Drake is perfect for elevating your go-to shorts-and-polo look. And yes, that means you can wear them without socks, thanks to the soft leather and textile lining. If you don’t want to really hammer home the ‘boat’ in boat shoes, they’re also available in cognac, though we personally think it’s worth leaning in.

Available at Cheaney.

Crockett & Jones Falmouth Khaki Suede, £485

While the Falmouth falls into the boat shoe catchall, it’s perhaps better described as a Derby loafer. That means it has laces and a slightly more structured silhouette, while keeping things low and comfortable. The boat shoe element is mainly in the sole, which is shiny and new to Crockett & Jones, with a wedge design and horizontal tread pattern. In a versatile khaki suede with brown sole and laces, they’re the ideal halfway house for someone that likes the look of loafers but needs a little extra security from their shoes. Pair with chinos, a breathable shirt and you can take the look anywhere.

Available at Crockett & Jones.

Harry’s London Wharf Loafer, £270

Sure, this classic loafer in a light, denim blue has all the hallmarks of a summer classic, but you might find yourself wanting to wear them wherever and whenever you can. The textured rubber sole has plenty of grip, a Technogel insole offers superb comfort, and an internal lining keeps the entire construction durable enough to last season after season. The good news is that you can indeed wear them in inclement weather thanks to the protectively treated suede. They’re made in Italy, which suggests where you should be wearing them. Pair with light matching light blue linen and you’re good to go.

Available at Harry’s.